Tough to say, looks more matte than gloss to me but it does have some reflectiveness to it that a gloss would produce but it's kinda dull... So probably a bit in between.

@VogelStang OK I was curious which to go with

No problems closing but it definitely is a snug fit, gotta make sure it's seated just right

Yea it crossed my mind to try that but with my luck something would go wrong like slicing my hand open on something 🤣

@@VogelStang Yeah that's not a natural way of working on cars and I can understand the hesitation.

Thanks!! I've switched over to a manual pp1 mustang since this video. Going to try out some local tracks like NJMP and see how that goes. Good luck at Island!!

@@VogelStang cool make a vid on it, always wanted to run at njmp myself.

From what I remember (cause I don't have this particular mustang anymore), when you pull the plug the heavy stream misses the bar but it will hit it when the stream slows down. I used a larger style oil catch and never had a problem with oil splashing everywhere. I do my oil changes in my driveway so it's important to me to not have any spillage at all. On a side note, one thing I found out is that if you have or plan on getting long tube headers, there may be a clearance issue. I have Texas speed long tubes on the mustang I have now and they are about 1/4" to 1/2" inch in the way. Steeda told me to use washers as spacers but I haven't gotten around to it yet.

@@VogelStang no I’m not getting headers

The center holes I filled with bondo then covered it with the stripes. Then the single hole remaining on each end of the trunk I popped in a plastic plug that steeda provided. Not the best option for sure but I was fine with it. It's really too bad cause I love this wing and no one really has it. I would have got it for my new mustang but i didn't want to deal with the hole hassle. Swapping trunks with someone that has a spoiler delete and wants to have a wing would be the best option but probably hard to find. Another option is to check for totalled mustang that someone is parting out, also hard to find.. obviously would need to no have rear damage, spoiler delete and same paint color. Other than that, body shop route to fill the holes and paint the trunk which might not be too horrible because you will need to have the wing painted anyway. Final options, if you plan on wrapping your car that then just fill the holes and do the wrap and lastly...buy a new trunk lol. All the options are not great but not much else you can do. You could also contact steeda and ask if they have heard of any genius ways to cover the holes besides the plastic pins.

🤣🤣🤣 have heard this quite a few times

I think you're right. Good to know! Apparently the gray colored bolts are TTY. Every resource I used for doing anything that required dropping the subframe did not mention replacing the bolts with new. That included steeda and cjponyparts so I'm sure it's fine as long as the bolt is in good condition. But I'm curious about what the specific reason is that makes these bolts one time use.

@@VogelStang so i learned about them from my ford dealer when i was buying parts to swap the power steering rack in my F150. those bolts are torqued to 300ft lbs so i changed them, but it has something to do with stress on the threads at full yield. He did tell me anything less than 150 is going to be fine, or else you'd need to replace lug nuts everytime the wheels came off.

@@VogelStang so on another note, how do you like this kit? did it help? i know on the track i can feel the slop in the subframe coming out of corners at full throttle. I'm thinking of doing this, the adjustable diff bushings and vertical links. I'll probably do a coil over kit while it basically all apart.

@@motox947 got it, makes sense for something torqued to 300ft lbs. That's a ton of stress on a bolt. Also, glad to be reassured what I did is fine. Thanks for sharing that info!

@@motox947 I can't say for sure if this kit alone does anything major. But I did this kit, vertical links, and the subframe braces pretty much all together and it definitely made a difference. I had some tire chatter at the track in first and second, after installing those parts it was gone. Smooth continuous tire contact with the track.

Thanks! Yea, winter time here in the northeast so I don't really record much. I'll be back soon once it gets warm. I will do a video on some headers I got installed + I have an mgw short throw to get installed. Still need to finish getting 93 and e85 tunes buttoned up. Then I'll hit the track and see how much slower the manual is than the 10r80 😆 but I'll have more fun

That’s cool. I’m in Ohio. I have a 20 GT pp1 manual in Magnetic. I found you because I’m getting ready to do the Steeda IRS bushing supports and alignment bushings. I’m gonna lower it too.

No I never got it figured out. I found it all to be a bit quirky. That short shifting was frustrating. I highly doubt it's tire slippage. The rpms would have to jump up if that happened. I also tried using the paddle shifters to manually shift but that wasn't great either cause sometimes I would click the paddle and it wouldn't shift or would be severely delayed. In the end I got bored of the auto and moved on to manual that I look forward to tracking when the warmer weather comes. It'll be slower but I'm having more fun. Now I can only blame myself if the shifting sucks 😆 Good luck to ya, hope you get it figured out!

Thanks! Yup, I actually took the exhaust off the mustang in this video and put it on my new mustang. Another 2019 but went with a PP1 with a manual trans. Also got headers with high flow cats, might be a bit too loud and raspy now with the headers.

Oh nice I have a 2016 gt manual . I'd think I've seen your first mustang. Are you a local on the Sullivan county ?

Also where did you get your new install done

@@joedoe3121 cat back exhaust installs are pretty simple as long as you have the right tools so I do that myself in my driveway. The header install I was not going to attempt alone in a driveway, so I took it to Rob's Performance in Belleville NJ. Great guy, great job!

Oh ok .yeah headers are hard to install if not with a lift .I might have taken mine's to mustang magic in long island, I'm having trouble passing inspection

Amazing!!! Another Vogel Mustang combination!! 😁👍 It's great to meet you! This mbrp exhaust is awesome, I still love it! However, if you're ever thinking of getting headers, beware! This exhaust is beyond extremely loud with headers even with high flow cats! I will eventually do a video with the headers, I'm just waiting for the weather to get a bit warmer here.

Noooooo!!! 😭 Try to get a decently strong magent to work it out if it's still in there.

Hope you don’t hear it rattling.

Thanks man! If you're gonna run the R's on the street, definitely stay away from any rain...they have almost no tread at all.

Maybe they look better in the video than they are. I'm still not happy with where they sit but I think they are positioned better on this mustang than my previous one. Just luck I think. I actually had headers recently installed and the mechanic is super picky about the tip placement, he tried and couldn't get them to be perfect either.

I didn't get an alignment after this install. From what I had heard, if your alignment is off, you would have problems installing these. If you're skeptical, get the alignment done for peace of mind 👍

Yea, it was a perfect day for racing! 👍

😆 you're going to be everyone's favorite neighbor.

Definitely, street series does have a good sound to it. We'll be introducing some headers (with high flow cats) soon so it'll be interesting to see how loud it will be with race version of mbrp 😬

Thanks! Yea fits in perfectly with the whole blackout package!

😆🤣 not to worry, there's a fat check in the mail for you! no more head trips!! 😎

Awesome! Thanks! 👍

Thanks! Yes! My favorite as well! I'm pretty stoked that I found this one and it all worked out. Yea, I love the black accents, I think I'm going to do a black vinyl wrap on the roof myself... let's see how miserably I fail at wrapping 🤣

Thanks Kevin! Great tip! I usually do that but was a little bit lazy this time 😂

If you like loud exhaust and don't live in a neighborhood where it might be a problem then absolutely! I put 40,000 miles on my mustang in 3 years so I pretty much daily drive it and I love this exhaust. It can be tough in drive thru's, I usually have to turn the car off to order food. I tried a few times with it running and they couldn't hear me 🤣. You can also keep it on the quiet side if you go real light on the gas pedal. It really comes down to personal taste, your routine and environment. Like if you have to start it up at 6am every morning to go to work and you live somewhere around a lot of close neighbors then it might not be a good idea.

Thanks! Glad to hear it was helpful! Too bad you couldn't get it in there 😕 I remember it being a pretty tight fit so it makes sense you would have trouble with rust. I wonder if it would be possible to get a cylindrical sander like a dremel to clean it up. I have no idea if that's possible or even a good idea or not but just trying to think of options.

Still love the stance. If I were to get another Mustang would I buy these again? Probably not, but only because I would want something a bit more agressive for handling. I didn't really feel much of a difference. If I just wanted the looks, then sure these were perfect and no regrets.

Thanks! I didn't know that and will give it a shot! Thanks for the tip and sorry for the late reply 🤘

@@VogelStang haha anytime I’m still knew you all of it too but I ran a 7.3 doing that and was happy full weight and very thing with race star drag pack

Thanks for watching and commenting! 👍

Could be due to the engine differences between gen2 and gen3. Gen3 intake and exhaust valves are a bit larger. Not sure if that's the reason or not though, just guessing 🤷‍♂️

After these changes I actually got slower times because I couldn't hook. I was running 305s MT street comps on 20s. I eventually got MT ET Street R's on 17s and went to e85 and ran a 11.5 with a mild 2k launch. I have videos uploaded after this one with my progression if you wanna check them out.

Thanks man!! Sure, I've got MMD 551C wheels from American Muscle 20x10 (R) & 20x8.5 (F) Mickey Thompson Street Comp tires 305/35-20 (R) & 255/35-20 (F) and I run wheel spacers on the front...I believe they are 15mm. No spacers on the rear. The wheels are decent but not great quality, the fronts have developed some cracks in the finish.

Thanks! It's been over 2 years now since I've had this exhaust and still love it! Thanks for the comment!

I want to know if after two years the exhaust's material is still in good conditions. No issues or anything .

@@ileanamorales39im last time I was under the car it all looked fine and I've had no issues. I live in area with snow and heavily salted roads in the winter so it gets quite a bit of exposure to bad elements. I don't daily it during the winter but i do put at least 100 miles a week on it. I could always do an update video on it so you and anyone else interested could see what it looks like.

Thanks so much my friend😘

Thank you my friend. I just got it tight while it out and torqued it after it was installed. I think it might be difficult to toque while it is out unless you find a crafty way to do it. Likewise though, you will need to get crafty to torque it after it is installed as well because the shaft will turn as you try to torque that nut. You will need to put locking pliers on the shaft with like a cloth or something, I used a super fat rubber band I had. This is just to prevent the locking pliers from marring the shaft. Once you start torquing it, the locking pliers will wedge against the inside of the wheel well and stop the shaft from turning allowing you to fully torque the nut. There's a good video of this I believe by Regular Guy Garage, let me see if I can find it for ya...

Here it is... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hL6qaMpisN62m6c.html

Thank you sir- much appreciated! 🙏🏽

No problem! Good luck with the install!!! 👍

Thank you! Just like you it’s gonna be my 1st ever! I just watched CJ Pony parts and what they did was screw the strut nut by hand then impact gun just till the nut bit, then they decompressed/loaded the spring and hit again it with an impact gun again till tight then installed. On the other hand, I just watched Zander13 initially tighten the nut by hand then use an impact gun while the spring was still compressed on the compression tool til tight then he just installed it. So many different ways. I just want to get it right. Which method make sense? Any input is greatly appreciated 🙏🏽