Hi, I'm new to this, I have a question about balancing. For example, I have 4 lithium iron phosphate batteries. They all have different volts. 3.2v 3.4v, 3.1v and 3.5v. If I buy an active balancer ,There will be no need for manual top balancing? I hope you can help me
@TheDigitalMermaid5 күн бұрын
It depends. That's a pretty wide spread of voltages, so even an active balancer could take a long time to finish. If it was me, I would put all four in parallel and connect a constant-voltage charger set to 3.65 volts, and let it charge until the charge amperage dropped to under 1% of the cell capacity. So if they're 300Ah cells, I'd let the charger go until the charge current dropped under 3A. Even then, I'd let them absorb for at least a few hours.
@WiSeNhEiMeR-13697 күн бұрын
Entertained by the SWITCH from COFFEE to an ALCOHOL Drink 🙂 COOP ...
@WiSeNhEiMeR-13697 күн бұрын
= Revisiting some of your "older" videos Thanks again for posting your "instructional" VIDEOS COOP the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA ...
@michaelchambers769110 күн бұрын
I'm going to try wax floss.
@charliebrown81511 күн бұрын
thank you for your help have a good day
@jimleahy604012 күн бұрын
I have an electric landfall 38. It has a 1.2 Kw motor with 72 Volt 480 Ah of battery. I can get about 4 to 5 hours at 4 to4.5 Knots.
@CSergV14 күн бұрын
What the situation is now? What firmare is recommended for JK inverter BMS?
@utubeuser102414 күн бұрын
2.0V is the absolute minimum safe voltage for a LiFePO4 cell - and if i remember right, EVE even states the voltage can drop as low as 1.8V before damage occurs
@Drillmechanic14 күн бұрын
Only the new JiKong BMS PB have this drawback
@bigredinfinity312616 күн бұрын
thanks for the videos really helped me out
@johnxrv17 күн бұрын
good to see you smiling and giggeling. A lot of the tech/controler stuff for the motors is above me, but good to see you are moving forward an getting closer to meaking thing work as you want them to.
@PunkinVision18 күн бұрын
I love your brain!!
@WiSeNhEiMeR-136918 күн бұрын
HOWdy T-D-M, ... Thanks COOP the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA ...
@user-hb5qp1tu8z20 күн бұрын
I've watched a few of your videos, I like what you're doing, and we just happen to have bought the same DC/DC charger. My use of this charger is in my little camper shell on my pickup. The DIP battery chemistry switching explanation in the manual is funky! Outside of happenstance in trial and tribulations of weird quirks like tester leads slipping out, low grade fuses going poof and me forgetting to plug my modular design together which is intended to be removable, this could have gone smoother. I pulled 12 volts off an add a fuse, and sent that through a pilot switch where the switch leg activates the coil on a 300 amp solenoid under the hood then back to a chassis ground to close the circuit. That allows the 240 amp alternator to feed the 60 amps to the DC/DC charger and then into the 300 Ah Lifepo4 battery. On the switch, I jumped the switch leg to the pilot LED as well, then another wire from the pilot light terminal onto the D+ sense location to trigger the DC/DC charger. So there's one switch in the cab of my pickup to turn on and off the DC/DC charger and make electrical contact (or more importantly disconnect) through the solenoid at the same time if weather isn't Lifepo4 charging friendly, I also have voltage monitoring in the cab. A bit of a head scratcher for a little while, but it's all functioning as it should. Fine job you're doing here!
@TheDigitalMermaid20 күн бұрын
Welcome, and thanks for watching. Sounds like a fun project you've got there.
@elektron2kim66620 күн бұрын
Very inspiring. It's the same journey with something smaller I'm doing.
@scoutjonas20 күн бұрын
Use 2 diodes (oring) to power your circuit from the dual 12V outputs.
@jamesdean508721 күн бұрын
Where did you find those motors? The 10K watt motor will work for an electric car if I use 2-4 of them. If you could post part number etc would be great. Loved your video reminds me of my old days in Silicon Valley.... I burnt my share of wires!
@AmyMrsR21 күн бұрын
lol! Totally LOL'd at the Dark Crystal Ref :) ALL of this swooshed over my head and im not going to try and comment on the serious content of the video. But im always happy to see you working onwards and cant wait to see the finished moment of Tada! And a running sailboat :)
@ferguscampbell248521 күн бұрын
Back in the 1970's at the beginning of computer life it was a lot easier to do computer control as computer's were simple machines. The biggest problem was working with binary code. Now days coding is simple, but computer's are more complex and can do more things. I recently found a computer simulator program which makes it less expensive to work out programs as there is less Indian smock signals. NO NEW PARTS NEEDED.
@TheDigitalMermaid21 күн бұрын
Emulators are amazing for that. And ya, the world of IT has changed a LOT. I started in the 80s, and today is totally different.
@AndrewShevchuk21 күн бұрын
I haven't been here for a while. I see there's still a lot of work left. But electrical engineering is even better than any meditation.
@TheDigitalMermaid21 күн бұрын
Hah! Ya, it's a long slog, but it'll be worth it in the end.
@joestockton7621 күн бұрын
Well this is my 4th attempt to post this. Hopefully it finally works this time! Search for open barrel crimper to identify the right crimper. Then verify the crimper supports the sizes you need for the crimps. You can find that information on the crimo specification for the terminals in the documentation. I prefer ratcheting crimpers for positive and repeatable crimps. Hope this helps!
@TheDigitalMermaid21 күн бұрын
Thanks, Joe! KZfaq is really strict with comments, and will auto-delete them if there's URLs or what have you. I need to decide if I want to replace these connectors, but if I don't, I'll look for those crimps. Thanks!
@blah66622 күн бұрын
Thanks for sharing!
@TheDigitalMermaid21 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching!
@loucinci392222 күн бұрын
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing
@TheDigitalMermaid21 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching, Lou!
@rickeemeee325222 күн бұрын
Yay😊
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
^_^
@rickeemeee325222 күн бұрын
I love all of your work great job . I'm gathering all of what I'm seeing yo working on and I'm thinking you are making a speed control capable of running both motors . I'm thinking why don't you make a separate control for each motor, I'm considering redundancy. You are going to be out on the ocean away from any help electronics being what they are chances of two separate systems going down are very slim. Just my thoughts you are way above me😅😊 you are terrific❤
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
Hi Rick! The reason for the single controller is that the condition when I'd switch throttles and when I switch motors are independent. With the throttles, there will be one on the port and stbd side, so being right handed, I'd use the stbd side mostly, and only switch to the port throttle if there was a problem with the stbd throttle. Someone who is left handed would probably do the opposite. In either case, we might be running the 5kw if we're maximizing range, or the 10kw if we need extra power. Having one central controller makes this flexibility possible. That said, I'll make spare controllers, so if the controller failed, it should be a quick fix by just swapping the boards out.
@bernhardweiss130922 күн бұрын
I think it is time to built some robust components to get more peace , like a control panel , a thrust lever …. . I think a change to industrial watertight connectors like the HAN8 series from Harting will make your life easier 👍🏻
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
Aye. I've already started pulling the rats nest apart. I'm working on adding the multiplexors now, and will make a prototype panel. I'm going to redo which i/o pins are used for what in the new version, and will wire things up to the prototype panels as I do so. I can't hope to debug the software when the hardware is so precarious.
@mikejones-vd3fg22 күн бұрын
Woah Cool stm32 project. Reminds of a throttle position sensor error in my car and was impresssed with the level of safety they had built into the system incase sometthing went wrong. Like if the potentiometer was off or a had a dead spot it would pickup on the wierd voltage and let you know. In the cars case it just means bad efficiencey with the computer not knowing the exact throttle possition but Iyour case a dead spot in the potentiometr could prevent you from going in the direction you want or stuck in one which is even more of a hazzard id imagein. I dont want to dig the rabbit hole youre in any deeper but its something to consider, or at leaste be aware and see how auto has done with it, using the CAN bus and a million update messages... i wouldnt even... i just finished blinking an LED on the stm32 ... albiet from scratch and without libraries, and it was 3kb vs Arduinios 11kb blink sketch, and only 4 lines of code so definately worth the low level programming. I could imagine the work that goes into making a motor controller. Could be fun actually. Grin Technlogies has some solutions for 2 motor drives, hes a Canadian guy too but its for ebikes, still a very cool channel he goes into the motors deeply, regen vs freewheel and actually even inspsired a viewer to invvent a freewheel/ regen combo which until then hadnt been invented. Thats pretty cool, they call it freegen. I dont know how it would relate to nautical drives but.,.. something more to geek out on perhaps.
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
Howdy! I spent a lot of time thinking about the throttle redundancy earlier in the project, and even considered the Apollo approach of three sensors (well, Apollo had three computers, but...). The idea would have been the discard the pot that was most out of range and average the other two. In the end, I decided to just have two independent throttles and a selector switch. This would mean that left-handed people at the helm could choose the throttle that felt best for them, also. If one throttle acted up, a flip of a switch and the backup throttle would be ready to go. So I went that route. The efficiency of the stm32 over the arduino is ... yeesh. I adore Arduino for now accessible it made embedded dev, but I also now understand the power and control of the stm32. They're both great, but for very different reasons.
@mikejones-vd3fg22 күн бұрын
@@TheDigitalMermaid Nice, neat solution. Yeah stm32 is better if you can get over the leaning curve, and now its getting easier since they're supported on arduino IDE you could port an arduino project onto it without issues and benefit from better specs and lower costs. That was my justification for getting a bunch, albiet the low space versions, they were 1.40 each and 1 arduino was 5+ so why not, space being equal it was 72mhz vs 16mhz, sold!.. But wow it took me some time to get over the learning curve of just getting a progrma onto one, and I have expereince with C and programming, so kudos to you whos learning all this from scratch, thats quite an accomplishment! Look forward to see how it turns out, especailly the graphical display. Theres some new stm32's that have vector graphic GPU's built in(STM32U5F9/U5G9) you know the old school vector graphics before pixels took over, that would be cool if you could make graphical displays with that and what that would evel look like.
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
@@mikejones-vd3fg So funny thing is, I'm designing an 80's retro-futuristic console, so the red 16x2 character display will be the "fanciest" display I'll use. It's mostly going to be a LOT of LEDs :)
@mikejones-vd3fg22 күн бұрын
@@TheDigitalMermaid Cool, yeah nothing like navigating the water with a retro terminal screen, maybe get an atari joystick for the steering? nah jk those gpu loaded stm32 do fancey displays it looks like but they'e expensive a$15-25 and thats just the bare chip, so lots more work. They just came out 6 months ago, if you were going for the Tesla dashboard look that wouuld be the chip to power it. Character displays are just fine too though, Marty McFly travelled back in time with LED displays, it should be good enough.
@TheDigitalMermaid21 күн бұрын
@@mikejones-vd3fg OK, so, I've actually be planning for that (using an Atari controller for the boat). I've not talked about it because it's so far away, but it's absolutely something I plan to do. It's one of the main reasons I want to learn more about the ESP32.
@thomasvnl22 күн бұрын
23:11 could you not use a shielded ethernet cable for those connectors instead of using your awg jumper wire?
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
I've been poking around digikey looking at connector options, and that actually did cross my mind, as I'm not using 9 pins on any of the connectors. I dismissed it pretty quickly through as I really want to pick something that keeps the air out.
@thomasvnl22 күн бұрын
@@TheDigitalMermaid Ethernet cable does come in an "outdoor" flavour that has sealant between the pairs which keeps water (and other things) outside of the cable. I am not familiar with if digikey keeps something like that in stock, and I cannot claim to know if that sealant will keep air out. I enjoy watching your videos, just trying to pitch in with the thinking process and hope you succeed in transforming the ship to all-eletric!
@tastiger9122 күн бұрын
That is all happening, Frankensteins monster is twitching.
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
Twitching being the most apt part of that, haha! It's so good seeing it come together!
@philcongrave832622 күн бұрын
I know that feeling it takes me back to the time I rebuilt my car engine, and those 5 6 seconds before I turned the key, did I, have I. I love it thank you. Phil
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
This is what it's all about! Unless you've tried something hard, you can't really explain that "oh crap, oh is it going to work?" feeling. But when it does (possibly on the tenth try), the euphoria is ... damn.
@jimduke554522 күн бұрын
2 words: terminal blocks. This is a boat, not a car. You can get away with the pinned connectors for a year or two, but marine conditions will aid Murphy and you may have failures. Ring terminal style blocks (Eaton, blue sea) with tinned connections and tinned ring terminals )and tinned wires). The whole pinned connector repair in a seaway just sounds…scary.
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
Oh, I absolutely plan to use terminal blocks. These though, the wires are too small guage and too short (coming off the controllers and motors). On the side I'm making, I'm using tinned copper wire and pins. I figure that I'll be doing annual inspections of all connectors as part of my maintenance on the boat, and if any connector shows signs of corrosion (for small signal wires like these), then I can just cut the plus off entirely, solder a connection and seal with resin-lined shrink tubing.
@jimduke554522 күн бұрын
@@TheDigitalMermaid I think in the engine room, you will be mitigating a good amount of risk. It’s the 4 meters of extension and in the helm that will be really critical to mitigate the corrosion as best you can.
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
@@jimduke5545 Aye, and also, I was on the boat yesterday and I misjudged, I think it'll be closer to 2~2.5m, but still, tinned copper and then sealed everything!
@ritchycamaro22 күн бұрын
Wow thats a big milestone! Great work Maddy, can imagine the nerve wrekking moments with all that power laying around!
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
That was part of it, but also, I was soooo tired by that point, I was scared something was going to go catastrophically wrong and put the project back. There's been so many delays... I just want to be making progress again. :)
@NeutronModulator22 күн бұрын
This might be a silly idea but have looked an RC Flight controller board. Having an integrated PMU and Mission planner could adapt "Arduboat" to your needs.
@NeutronModulator22 күн бұрын
Another thought.. To multiplex your switches, how about a USB keyboard PCB ? Many available switch contacts (Matrix) and its a HID device with Arduino library.
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
@@NeutronModulator I have zero doubt that a canned solution would be more refined and have more features than what I can build. What started all this though (and applies to the keyboard question) was that when I was looking for electric motor options, I was put off by the closed off nature of the options. At first it was being annoyed that they wouldn't charge third party batteries, but then the real kicker was that they'd only allow authorized service centres to fix their controllers and electrics. Well, that's going to leave me stranded is something breaks in the arctic or on some pacific island. So I decided that I wanted to build a hackable electric boat, and decided the only way to do that would be to develop a ground-up open source option.
@jonathanbradshaw847322 күн бұрын
Umm, I haven’t watched all the videos but you mention that both motor drives connect to a single STM32 command unit. At risk of sounding like an armchair curmudgeon, have you thought about ground loops? I’m a bit concerned about how the two motor divers’ control ground pins will be connected near the STM32. Are they galvanically isolated from the main battery terminals? (You can check by measuring resistance from control ground to battery - on an UNPOWERED motor drive.)
@jonathanbradshaw847322 күн бұрын
If the control grounds are connected to the battery grounds, then when those wires get up to the STM32 command unit and come together it’s a point of connection between two large batteries.
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
@@jonathanbradshaw8473 All of the batteries go to common bus bars, and the loads connect to the same bus bars, so I figured all the grounds were connected already. With the motor controllers also going to the bus bars, their grounds are connected, too. The one thing I've not solved yet will be the onboard 5v supply (when it's no longer the laptop), but I figured I would ground the PCB / stm32 board to the system ground as well. Would doing all this not remove the concern? I'm still new to this, so pointers to docs / guides that help explain this is always appreciated. :)
@jonathanbradshaw847322 күн бұрын
I’m sorry I can’t do a good explanation. It’s a tricky concept.
@jonathanbradshaw847322 күн бұрын
Oh, some of my comment got lost. Possible references: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_loop_(electricity) help.campbellsci.com/CR1000X/Content/shared/Maintain/Troubleshooting/ground-loops.htm
@jonathanbradshaw847322 күн бұрын
All right, I’ve tried twice to put some links in a comment and had then disappear. Time for some typing… You can search for Ground Loop on Wikipedia for an introductory article. Let’s assume you’re using the 10kW motor at full power. In your specific case, bringing all the big battery negative terminals makes a lot of sense. You’ll have a length of chunky power cable going from the bus bar to the 10kW Kelly controller, carrying about 200 A. This will make some voltage drop. Additionally, this may carry some spiky switching noise from the motor drive switches. Meanwhile, the 5 kW Kelly controller uses basically no current, and hence no voltage drop. That means the ground on the 10 kW Kelly controller is at a different potential to the ground on the 5 kW Kelly controller. Next you connect your 10 foot (or whatever) control lines to ground at each Kelly controller and bring them together at the STM32 controller. According to the ground potential difference between the 10 kW and 5 kW Kelly controller, some current will flow (limited by cable resistance) along your control wires. The local ground at the STM32 will sit somewhere between the grounds of the two Kelly controllers. There are two things to watch out for: this unexpected ground current in the control wires could maybe get both enough to damage something OR when the STM32 I2C DAC delivers 2.5V out, the Kelly controller sees 2.5V plus some offset due to the grounds not being the same. I looked up a manual for the Kelly controller and saw that it showed +5V and a _separate_ ground connection to the throttle potentiometer. This separate ground would preclude the formation of a ground loop.
@charlesolson901922 күн бұрын
Yay getting the motors spinning! I love that "Holy shit, it works!" moment, it's the best feeling. Just a note, as someone who writes C++ code for a living, it's a really good idea to go through and get rid of those compiler warnings, e.g. make sure all variables are initialized at point of declaration, etc. Most places I've worked, the default configuration is that all warnings are treated as errors.
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
Oh, I very much plan to get everything cleaned up, but I've been really focused initially on a minimum viable product, so that once I can get the boat in the water, I'll be able to control it. It's the old "make it work, then make it right" approach. Of course, the danger with this approach is that you never get around to the second part. I'm hoping the community here will keep my feet to the fire so that doesn't happen. A benefit of open source code. ;)
@jonathanbradshaw847322 күн бұрын
“Everything is a temperature sensor. Some sensors measure other stuff as well.” - Elecia White
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
AHAHAHAHA! Oh my god.
@AndrewShevchuk21 күн бұрын
A statement that is not at all meaningless, but reflects the real state of affairs.
@Content-by-bear.22 күн бұрын
IWSS open barrel crimpers are good
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
I just looked them up (assuming you meant Iwiss), and I see examples of the crimps they do. That looks exactly what like I needed.
@jessicav203122 күн бұрын
The "pause for dramatic effect" is common among neurodivergents who need to stop and think about what they are saying all the time due to slow social processing. I think it's a badge of honor 😁
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
IS THAT WHAT IT IS?! Holy shit...
@jessicav203122 күн бұрын
@@TheDigitalMermaid Yeah, especially masking autistics have to watch speech cadence like a hawk when doing any kind of public speaking. The "weird" pauses always want to creep in. Lots of things to pay attention to at once and normies really pick up on it.
@SteveRowe22 күн бұрын
I just got a motor to spin on a project at my work, and my smile was just like yours! Congrats!
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
That's awesome to hear! It's the biggest reason we do DIY... All the frustration melts away the moment something works.
@SteveRowe22 күн бұрын
Don't ignore your diodes. They are probably to prevent damage to your motor controller by "back EMF". I am not an electrical engineer, but my understanding is that the analogy of electricity as water works pretty well. When water is flowing quickly and is then suddenly stopped, it can apply a lot of force to the plumbing (water hammer). Also, the electricity has the equivalent of momentum because of the big coils in your motor. When you run current through your motor, the current goes through the coils and creates a magnetic field. Because nothing is for free, the magnetic field resists the current flow. If you turn off power, the magnetic field collapses and pushes current back through the circuit. That's what back EMF is (I think). It is transient but can be of high magnitude.
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
Aye, especially as I plan to do regen off the motors. If the load disconnected while the motors were generating power, the diodes might help there also. Now that I've got an idea of what they're meant for, I'll know what to read up on. I already had back EMF (I think) blow my buck converter and catch fire on my last year, so I should know better. Trick with learning so much so quickly...
@TheAkabuck200119 күн бұрын
@@TheDigitalMermaidthe contactor when it is de-energised produces quite a voltage spike that can destroy connected electronics, connecting a diode across the low current side of the contactor with the band to the positive side will help clamp the back emf generated by the coil field collapsing. Hope this makes sense
@tylerjw70223 күн бұрын
you and medical emergencies mate. gees haha
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
Duuuude, when I heard Kepler was sick, a pick part of me was like "are you serious!?". I'm kinda hoping I've paid my dues and can go without any more medical emergencies for a while cause I am so done.
@tylerjw70222 күн бұрын
@@TheDigitalMermaid I legitimately thought it was Catpler and not Kepler and Mr catters I am... Not good at smart or accents
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
@@tylerjw702 Hahaha! Ya, named him after Johannes Kepler. Also, I love the idea that I've got an accent to other people. ^_^
@tylerjw70222 күн бұрын
@@TheDigitalMermaid just past the part where the motors spun 👏 legendary!
@loucinci392223 күн бұрын
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching, Lou!
@mausball23 күн бұрын
For the dual 12V input problem, yes, you need to diode isolate those into your board. Backfeeding one 12V supply with the other can cause spectacular issues.
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
I never thought about using diodes, but now I'm extra glad I went with two ULNs!
@jamesallen71223 күн бұрын
Its all gobble gook to me. Just a mass of coloured spaghetti on the floor. If you cant answer the why, no a lot of a chance for the likes of me fitting this all up. Keep going, you'll get there.
@whoguy423123 күн бұрын
No magic smoke and no sparks ... Win 👍
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
Absolutely! The issues I've got are minor and fixable, I was very happy.
@SpecialeW23 күн бұрын
I think those self crimped connectors you call jst are actually dupont. But I may be mistaking.
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
I think you're right, actually. The kit I got (and linked) even says "Dupont" on the case. I'm not sure where or why I started calling the JST.
@thatraven647523 күн бұрын
I'm famous!
@frejaresund377023 күн бұрын
ME TOO! Didn't think you would jump on it, with your focus on access and overview, so didn't mention how to. You like woodwork, so make a frame, holding the water block, that the controllers in turn mount on. In the shape of the frame you can integrate a mount for whatever structure you want to secure the controllers to. Like someone else mentioned, when you get time, you should sheld some of the wires from EMFs. I don't like the sound of those motors. Nice progress 🎉
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
Haha! Deservedly so, I loved that idea. I mentioned your comment to a friend and he said "You missed an opportunity to say "Quoth the Raven..." and now I hate myself. Haha
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
@@frejaresund3770 Aye, a wood (white oak) frame is what I've got (loosely) in mind. Some sort of cam lock to allow them to be separated, but when closed to press in with decent pressure (and using a thermal compound).
@erickvond682523 күн бұрын
Pertaining to your question about hooking the 12v lines from both controllers together you can. You'll likely want anti-parallel diodes. You'll want to tie the cathodes together and connect them to the input of your control system. The anodes will go to the separate motor controllers and since energy can only flow one way, it won't feed back into the other controller when either of them is on.
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
Using diodes makes a lot of sense, and I'm kinda annoyed I didn't think of that. Well, thankfully I had two ULNs and that worked.
@richardball190523 күн бұрын
Lead free solder.........I would have avoided that! End up with dry joints a lot quicker and aboard a boat with vibrations from motors.......leaded solder would last longer in my experience!
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
Aye, I can see that. My friend has a pick and place machine and a solder bath, so the board I make for the boat will hopefully be well soldered. In any case, using the liquid flux should help as well. I really worry about lead, but I do know it was used for a reason...
@chelleh867323 күн бұрын
Well done getting both motors spin, it's always good to see you make real progress. Lack of IO pins is always a problem on small micros. I2C port expanders are great for these applications, especially for outputs which only need to be changed at low frequency. You might even be able to move the A0 lines for each DAC onto one, or use a 2-to-4 (or 3-to-8) line encoder, as you are likely only writing to one DAC at a time. This frees up the IOs for inputs which might need to be responded to quickly via interrupts, instead of having to constantly poll a serialiser to see if any inputs/switches have changed state, in order to respond accordingly. It's generally easier to have outputs on expanders etc and save your on-chip IO for inputs and critical signals. If you are only operating one motor at a time, you might also be able to common up some output signals, to save even more pins.
@TheDigitalMermaid22 күн бұрын
Oooooh, I've got some serial to parallel shift registers I bought to play with. I originally planned to use them to drive LEDs, but ya, they might be perfect to also drive the A0 pins! I may have enough pins when I'm done, but if not, I'll remember this and pull it out to free up a few more. :D