Thanks! Appreciate you watching them. Uv resin is something I've not really dived into yet, but I think soon will be time to do so, because I spotted some uv putty the other day, which I've got some ideas for using in display basing.

There is a reason I picked that particular shape for the tutorial, because its a cylinder, and power armour is made up of cylinders, so the technique translates exactly and doesn't need to be adapted. Obviously there's other factors like lighting and secondary reflections etc, but that's a subject for a future video, there's definitely room to expand upon what was covered here, and plenty more planned! Thanks for watching.

According to the text on the sprue they're from a company called Renedra, Gravestones set 1 apparently. Hope that helps.

I'll see what I can do! I'm not overly proud of it, but I could do a quick close up and why there's bits I don't like about it.

Thanks!

Thanks, really appreciate you checking it out!

Thanks! Glad you're enjoying them

Thank you! Very kind of you to say.

Thanks bud!

Always best to test really I guess, I've just this second popped some plastic glue, gel super glue and normal super glue on the foam as I was intruiged! Plastic glue eats straight through it as expected, but neither super glues did at all. And the normal super glue was just a cheap hobby craft bottle, nothing special. The gel superglue is worth trying as it's great, but if your superglue melts your foam, the gel could potentially still do the same! Thanks for watching, appreciate it

It's the old 'Fast, Good, Cheap' triangle. You can only pick 2. You want fast and good...won't be Cheap. This one is Good + Cheap, so it's not Fast.

Doing it by brush makes you feel more pride in your work.

Its an older Citadel drill, Not 100% if its still available. But saying that, the actual way it grips the drill bit isn't ideal, you want something with what's called a 'Jacobs chuck' or a universal pin vise (they use 4 little grips rather than the one here which uses a collet system and can't go to really really small drill bits) you'll have much more freedom over what size bits you can put into it and it'll grip the smaller stuff better. Dspiae do one I believe that's quite good, but there are other options.

I use stream beats by Harris Heller, so the chances it references an old video game theme is probably quite high, but there's certainly nothing specific.

Yeah you absolutely could use milliput or greenstuff, anything like that. Just takes too long to cure for my liking! 🤣 thanks for the kind words, editing is not my favourite part of the process it has to be said.

I have done this with Milliput; it works well, and also has the advantage of being able to be smoothed out with water. I never thought of impressing texture into it, though.

@Vlad_The_Imposter milliput actually takes texture really well, it doesn't shrink or move as it cures so you can get really crisp details.

@@nofixedcourse I'll have to give it a go next time. I'm wondering now if there's something with finer bristles than a toothbrush that would work - an old synthetic brush with the bristles cut down maybe.

@Vlad_The_Imposter a paintbrush like you would use for a wall would have bristles stiff enough to do it, but you'd have to cut some off to make something smaller and more useful for what we do. Also dirt cheap to pick up and you can use the remaining bristles for long grasses!

I'll be honest, every time i've used citadel ardcoat for similar stuff it hasn't sanded well at all, but maybe I wasn't leaving it long enough to cure properly. It's useful stuff, but maybe not for this particular application. Unless your budget is strictly limited to that one pot of varnish, get some tamiya but keep the ardcoat and test some on a plain base, sanding a section in 24hr intervals. Both have their uses for hobby stuff.

Perfect, thank you

A wizard is never late, you have arrived precisely when you were meant to. Anyway, hope it helps, from one adhd addled brain to another!

The more layers the better really with tamiya clear, I'd have to go through the video again to double check, but in hindsight, if you can do a few more layers of the clear, it will add to the illusion of depth in the base, so do that. Just make sure each layer is completely dry before adding the next.

@@nofixedcourse Thanks! Should've realised not long after that you mentioned you have 5-6 layers on, which answers my question, sorry. I'm giving these a try, slowly but surely doing them, hopefully I wont have the issue with the cracks other people seem to be mentioning. Ill let you know how it goes?

@@nofixedcourse Unfortunately I ran into the issue with the cracks. Did make me wonder if perhaps i'm putting on the varnish too thinly? Do you put it on quite thick?

@klobb1236 it's fairly thick yes, I suppose that makes sense if you're used to gw or most miniature paint range varnishes, if you put them on too thick they go cloudy and rubbery, but tamiya doesn't do that so you can put on thicker layers. It's looking like I'll either have to do an updated video covering some of the issues people have had, or a little troubleshooting guide on the Facebook page.

Please do! give it a try and let me know how you get on, a couple of people have mentioned they've not had much luck with replicating it so i'm curious as to why that is. I wonder if a little thinned white ink in the cracks would be an addition that makes it easier for people to replicate.

You could potentially get away with It if you put the snow around the feet, you'd just have to put more snow nearby so it doesn't just look like they've conveniently stood in the only two patches of snow around!

Must acquire more minis!

Sometimes I varnish the whole base including the grass, which can help. But generally as long as its not being moved or touched constantly it should be fine, although you'll always lose a little bit over time anyway it won't be a huge amount.

@@nofixedcourse ok thanks so much! I just finished doing the bases for my skorpekh destroyers, and all of my dnd friends are impressed thanks to your tutorial 😁

Yes absolutely, your main concern would be is the base smooth enough, and painting it in such a way that it looks natural, so either having the lines avoiding the feet completely or painting it to look like it's passing under the feet. Either way is perfectly fine.

@@nofixedcourse awesome, i was planning on smoothing the bases before attaching and priming. Then fix the feet once the bases is done.

Thank you, glad you liked it!

Really glad you found some use in the video!

There's a couple of ways to do it, either with pinning or by covering a section of the base beforehand. Pinning would be to drill a hole in the foot of your model and in the base and connect the two using part of a paperclip or small brass rod. Or you can cover parts of the base where the feet connect before you start putting on sand etc. Either works fine although pinning is a stronger connection.

Yep, it absolutely would work. It would potentially be easier as well, because black highlights up through grey very well and you can start with a variety of different dark colours to give the black a bit more depth, such as incubi darkness from citadel, that's one i use to do initial highlights on black a lot.

@@nofixedcoursethank you so much! I appreciate it very much

You're absolutely welcome! Glad it's helped. I'll try and do a video for various techniques in a similar style as a reference for beginners.

@@nofixedcourse I'd really appreciate that😁

Glad you liked it! Now if only there was an easy, universal way of describing how to thin to a glaze consistency. That's the next problem to solve.

@@nofixedcourseOh my goodness, *yes*! Even after a few years, I can still struggle with it. Inevitably I over-water half the time.

It's so bad, but entirely unconcerning when you drop them, so that's a plus. Glad you liked the video!