@@762cat wont let me post a pic so here is a link to them. www.grainger.com/product/4YT77?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw74e1BhBnEiwAbqOAjILPDd3w89cu9G2B57J0doQL_u4A6DOeUBKQ2wVcrpas6hPnLmPmPBoCeskQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

@@jbarstrailerfab thank you

I am working on the final video now! But yes, i got it pretty dang close, close enough for most anyone…. Lol

I sold this one for around 10k and somebody jumped on it within a day. I think 15k is the more normal number. If you can, try to find one that hasnt been abused in a rental fleet!

@@jbarstrailerfab that’s bout how much they’re going for around here ( SF Bay Area ) and they’re beat to crap. The one you sold was in good condition.

Thanks!

Ohh good tip, thank you!

Thanks for watching!!

Have you considered, doing some heat shrinking, on the top of your plate? May help with final fit up. Cheers!

@@smedleypdolittle i have, but I will probly save that for a last resort… it is actually straightening out really well so far!

Thanks!

Good advice!!

Good idea! Ones like the Fireball’s are the ultimate!

Yep! Most manufacturers will do it for you! Its big in the hot-shot trucking world to keep combinations under a 26,000 GVWR.

And that I did! I spent the time to list it for sale and then delivered it to somebody that feels it will be 100% perfect for them and their shop. Then I spent the time to design and build (still in progress) my own fixture table, far heavier duty and far cheaper, that will be 100% perfect for me and my shop.

🤷‍♂️

That is a good point, thanks for sharing!!

Yep!

used 5th wheel trailer frame*

That is a pretty loaded question, honestly. Probably the biggest thing would be inspect it for cracks, mainly up in the “gooseneck” area and where it connects to the lower frame. 5th wheel frames are built super light, borderline flimsy, so building a tiny house might be a task but with enough reinforcing, im sure it can be done. See what size axles it has, you will want at least 6k, 7k and larger would be better. Big thing to remember, RV’s are built light weight as possible, a tiny house is usually built more like a house and can end up WAY heavier…

@@jbarstrailerfab Thank you so much for responding so quickly. Would you recommend sending detailed pictures a welder to make sure I don’t overlook certain things. While also seeing if the trailer is actually worth buying?

@@kyrengradney3764 yeah thats a good idea!

Every channel who got one of these couldn’t get it flat to the company’s standards. And these standards aren’t the highest in the industry. A major problem is that you need a very flat surface for the panel to lay on to do this properly. A straightedge won’t suffice as the top plate will conform to the flatness of the floor. For smaller tables it’s not too much of a problem, such as a 2 x 3, but as you get larger than about 3 x 4, it does become a serious problem. You should TIG weld all the slots on outside surfaces so you don’t MiG weld lumps you have to grind down. I question why someone would need a table this size in the first place unless they’re building massive structures. I’m sorry so many problems occurred. But honestly folks, assembly needs to be carefully thought out BEFORE you order a product, not after. I bought a 3 x 4 Sigmund table, on sale for $3165 (plus shipping). It’s far better than Certiflat. Not even close, really. A 4 x 8 is $7,000. Since he spent over $6,000, a Sigmund would have been better. It’s a 1/2” hardened tool steel casting RC 60, nitrided surface so it doesn’t rust or collect BBs. It meets aerospace standards as to surface flatness. I have nothing to do with Sigmund other than having bought a table and fixtures. Ok, why they’re made bigger. They’re made bigger because they’re not 5/8”, they’re 16mm. 16mm is the standard. It’s about 2.5 hundredths of an inch bigger than 5/8”. A long time ago, it was 5/8”, then the standard went metric as every standard has done (live with it guys!). 5/8” fixtures do work, but they’re a small amount more wiggly. It’s fine. Just understand that most fixtures these days might be tight with 5/8” holes as everything is now made for 16mm. I don’t recommend making a table with 5/8” holes. As far as getting a table flat goes, your legs matter a lot. You HAVE to flatten the table by adjusting the leg height. What I see here is that the wheel height isn’t adjustable. That’s bad. The Sigmund wheel height is adjustable. And unless you plan to move your table around, don’t buy wheels, buy legs with adjustable pads. Get a long builders level such as a Stabila, the length of the table, which is the flattest, and use that to level your table, which if done properly, will also flatten it. You will have a big problem doing that with this. I guarantee your floor is not flat. Good luck. They do make tables up to 5/8” thickness, if you think this one is heavy.

This 4x10 piece of 1/2” A572 Grade50 plate and the laser cutting cost a little over 2500. But that was the cutting AND the material. He quoted me on plain ole A36 1/2” plate and it was almost 1k cheaper

@@jbarstrailerfab they quoted me 1200 for 3/8” 3x4’

I guess I’ll just have to stick to a flat top

I am building my own table now. Videos are/will be on my channel

Not into letting the internet know that sorta info but it was quite aways down into 4 figures

The ditch witch here in Boise must have screwed me then, the few i bought were NOT well priced, at least in my opinion.

Just payed 9000 for used one from rental store

Not as far as i know