It’s two boards glued together.

Thanks for the question. I must admit my studs are not 100% accurate because they SHOULD be sharper. Unfortunately I couldn’t find any without paying a blacksmith to custom make them. But even as is, they do have a job. The main reason is for anti armor. The studs allow the force to be concentrated on a smaller and harder area so that it has more chance of imparting that force into the hard armor. It’s the same idea as a spiked mace head medieval knights would use. Simple wood would have a greater chance of deforming around the armor, damaging itself in the process. The holes do technically weaken the wood but it’s still plenty strong and some of the antique ones used metal banding to add more strength and keep the wood from splitting.

I think it was like five feet. I don’t really remember… I just looked at old pictures and woodblock prints to get an estimate. I’ve only seen one in real life but it was in a shrine so pictures weren’t allowed. From what I remember it was about that long. Hope you enjoy the project. Good luck 👍

@@EliotChildress thank you so much I hope you have a great new year

It was actually an octagon so pretty easy. Just cut some 45 degree bevels on the table saw. I think the process would be similar for a hexagon though. Just at different angles. Cut one, rotate, cut the next

@@EliotChildress ty

Oh man, you made me dig through some old emails for that info haha. But they were 18-8 stainless steel, size 12. 1/2 inch long. I think item number 91654A291. But honestly I’d just recommend going with whatever size your gut tells you. As for the wood I don’t have any record of that but maybe 2.5x2.5 inches or 3x3 inches.

I’d use impact grade hickory if you have it. But if you want a full explanation of why I used the wood that I did it’s all in the first part of the full length video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l7aXrKx-yperY4E.html

They are known as “screw nails” or “u drive screws”. I got mine from McMaster-Carr

@@EliotChildress you sir are a godsend!

Thanks! I spent days researching dimensions but they are few and far between. But I did my best while working from what I could find. I may have gone a bit far in terms of strength but it’s definitely not too weak lol.

I swung it around a lot and it worked really well if you let your hands slide up and down the handle rather than thinking of it as a club with a fixed grip. But as for hitting, the best I can do is say I firmly believe it’d take you out on one swing but since I was sending it off I couldn’t actually hit stuff. You’d have to ask the metatron how it is when you hit stuff.

Lol it’s a little bit of a mess right now. But soon. It’s well over due…

Looks like you are out in Japan's countryside?

Thanks 😁

Thanks 😊

Thank you 🙂

If I could I would. But I moved to japan and had to start over from scratch. Maybe in a couple years when I save up enough for a lathe.

@@EliotChildress I understand thanks! Good luck over there.

I don’t really think it needs the extra weight, it packs quite the punch as is, but…. If you feel like it, I would cut a groove down the center of both pieces before gluing into a square and epoxy some all thread in there. Then just for extra protection and added weight add a metal hoop at the top to keep that part from splitting. But i’d be sure to make the rod extend into the handle part too or else it might crack in half at the end of the handle.

Yeah a couple of my friends mentioned that when I first posted it. Sorry bout the headache. Won’t happen again.

Glad to hear it! Hope you enjoy every minute of the process.

@@EliotChildress oh i am it's small too maybe a foot but I'm loving this project

Yep. It helps to seal everything to prevent uneven movement. Also the burnt part needs to be sealed or else you will turn everything near the table black. But the actual bottom of the top doesn’t need as many coats because it won’t be subject to as much use.