What you want is both. Fabrication of Timberframe in factory, then brought to site. The huge savings come during the electrical phase where no special cutting away of SIP and fishing wiring through channels. I see no advantage to SIP.
@andrewlemon98562 күн бұрын
Brilliant! and I'm an architect!
@build-better-things2 күн бұрын
Thanks a lot.
@bluesfool12 күн бұрын
Use both. Wrap your timber frame in sips. No brainer
@build-better-things2 күн бұрын
Except your wall will be around 400mm thick and then there’s the cost.
@bluesfool12 күн бұрын
@@build-better-things you can get sips in different thicknesses. 4” foam for walls and 6” for roof! The cost will be made up in efficiency!
@build-better-things2 күн бұрын
Four inch sips panels perform worse than four inch PIR boards. You wrap your studs in PIR, which is what I show in the video , never with sips.
@kawo6664 күн бұрын
Hi, thank you for excellent video. Could I ask if it would be beneficial to have a full steel structure by adding 2 beams (and extending the window goalposts to the corners)? That would make the inner timber leaf non-load-bearing. Are there any downsides other than extra cost of steel?
@build-better-things2 күн бұрын
Cost of steel isn’t that much relatively. Extending to the corners and making it a more complete steel frame is a fine idea and gives you more options on glazing.
@kingofthetrowel17254 күн бұрын
I’ve had to use 9.5 to butt upto a 12.5mm before under a staircase where it was tight, I’m surprised tho the existing pb under the stairs was not a fire board although the house is 20 years old.I’m hoping the 9.5mm will do the job (it’s a slither about 120mm wide by 2.8mlomg) but it made skimming easier
@build-better-things2 күн бұрын
We use 12.5mm over 9mm due to the requirement for short duration fire resistance that 12.5 gives you. There’s a minor acoustic improvement as well but otherwise 9.5 is fine. Thanks for the comment
@dountoothers5 күн бұрын
Have you heard or anyone using a sips floor with timber framing for the rest of the build? Would you think there's any advantage to this idea if building a small house that would sit on a pier and beam foundation?
@build-better-things4 күн бұрын
I think with sips it’s about economies of volume. Just getting a floor set up for you on their presses isn’t going to be cheap. However, getting the floor down and a working platform in place is a big deal. I’d do it if I could trust the manufacturer to deliver. My experience is they (sips manufacturers) take your money but then don’t deliver in the time they promise.
@blockofnoise55805 күн бұрын
Hello I have a question. I live in France and the original house is a stone construction. We have a metal framed barn attached to the house. We had to dig out up to 40cm of earth in the barn to level the floor to match the main house allowing for insulation and the eventual concrete floor. The existing metal frame work for the barn will remail and we will construct a timber build inside. To finish with an industrial appearance. The metal frame will be eventually supported using concrete pillars . My question is what depth would you recommend for the foundations for the timber construction side.
@build-better-things4 күн бұрын
You need to dig down and find the boulder clay and then go around 6 to 800 mm below that. Or find the bedrock and build off that. However you need to get proper structural advice …I’m just a random guy on KZfaq.
@user-cy6yc6tb3t6 күн бұрын
How much load does the pin on an acrow prop actually take for this type of propping cheers???
@build-better-things6 күн бұрын
Different props can have slightly different loadings, so you go to their website or data sheets to get the specific info.
@rls85998 күн бұрын
Hi Jerry - I have an office to resi project in Hamilton that I am just getting off the ground and found your videos/advice very helpful. Do you & your team take on design & build work yourself anymore or can you recommend any good builders to ask for quotes?
@build-better-things8 күн бұрын
For building work I can only do closer to East side. For design work, much easier as it’s just me involved. If you want to contact, there’s links in the bio or you can through the website
@halstirrup9 күн бұрын
What would you recommend please ? Thank you 🙏
@build-better-things9 күн бұрын
Hi. Use tissue faced PIR insulation laid over vapour barrier onto warm OSB deck, and bond the roof membrane directly onto the insulation. Never use foil faced insulation for a warm roof.
@abdulq93379 күн бұрын
Hi COULD YOU PLEASE GUIDE ME I WOULD LIKE TO BUILD DOUBLE EXTENSION 🙏 THANKS
@user-ry9lf5nj8f11 күн бұрын
So many useful tips 👏🏻 subscribed
@TheBlockUniverse12 күн бұрын
What's the benefit of using tongue and groove chipboard over osb boards? Osb Is usually cheaper
@build-better-things11 күн бұрын
I can get the chipboard for a bit less cost the last time I looked. Plus…chipboard is treated for moisture resistance, plus 22mm t&g OSB is hard to find. I’ll only use OSB for roof deck or if I want to expose it. And if I’m building outside, I don’t want to use OSB as the floor, as it’s not waterproof. The Egger is better for that.
@juliansaurin34512 күн бұрын
Excellent video. Have done, more or less, what you've advised on a new floor as part of a whole-houose renovation. A couple of months after finishing and when loading floor with 10mm laminate flooring, partitions, cupboards, etc terrible squeaking started. On 600mm centres, I-joists, using D4 Egger-type glue and screws with 22mm caberboard. Still have 'access' to joist-board face from underside. Any suggestions to cure this nightmare short of knocking the whole house down ? :(
@build-better-things11 күн бұрын
If you’ve still got access to underside, maybe run some expanding foaming glue along the tops a new set of joists then, before the glue starts to cure, or set, screw them immediately into the side of the existing joists, pushing them tight against the underside of the chipboard at the same time. Clamps are your friend. . Then introduce noggins in the same way. If you use enough glue it will expand to grab the floor. Without seeing it, I’m guessing only. As I said in the vid, I’ll avoid 600 centres because of the increased risk of squeak
@paoemantega879312 күн бұрын
Another excellent video on the laying of chipboard flooring! thanks for all the tips and hints - keep em coming :)
@JohnnyTHolland12 күн бұрын
I did not find this video relevant or useful for 'setting out foundations'.
@DigitalPowertrainBlog15 күн бұрын
Our house initially had flat roof and therefore the insulation is between the ceiling joists. Later, pitched roof has been added on top. It's a single story house and due UFH we wish to raise ceiling - thinking of exposing joists and have plasterboard on top. What would be best method of insulation? The roof cavity is ventilated. Note that we also want to install MVHR and ducted AC systems which would interface with the ceiling. Also, the lights would be fitted in the plaster board too. Would it make more sense to do warm roof insulation and reduce roof cavity ventilation?
@build-better-things9 күн бұрын
If you want to expose the joists / rafters as you suggest, you don’t have any other choice than to use a warm roof method for insulation.
@DigitalPowertrainBlog9 күн бұрын
@@build-better-things but in theory our second roof (the pitched one) can also be made as a cold roof? or not? warm roof will mean roof tiles replacement which is a job beyond our budget at this moment.
@build-better-things9 күн бұрын
I’m not understanding what you wish to expose… but for an existing rafters where you keep the roof covering, you need to ventilate and have a minimum air gap of 50mm and introduce roof vents. I’ve made a few videos about it. Then you need to decide on your insulation based on your available rafter depths.
@DigitalPowertrainBlog9 күн бұрын
@@build-better-things we effectively have two roofs - flat one which was built first and pitched roof that has been fitted retrospectively on top.
@sparkyoc676615 күн бұрын
You don't put a sheet of visqueen behind the sleepers? In Australia, we now have to put a sheet of cement board and plastic sheet behind the wall to prevent moisture breakthrough , even with conrete sleepers. Also, our posts have to be same depth as height. Absolute overkill but that s what the engineers want
@build-better-things15 күн бұрын
I paint the back and sides of the sleepers in bitumen which has a degree of breathabiliy. I think an impervious membrane like Visqueen accelerates the decay of the timber where it sits against it, but it’s just an opinion as I’ve never done it that way. Depth… I’ve always worked on 2:1 for the height, as long s as there’s Boulder Clay at the surface after you dig down. 1:1 I would imagine the post would fail before the foundation at such a depth encased within boulder clay…. but maybe that’s why I’m not an engineer. Thanks for the comment.
@50LightSabersInAPack18 күн бұрын
Those three joined beams are making me whince 😬
@TheTrainstation19 күн бұрын
what you save by doing it yourself youll spend on wallpaper
@build-better-things19 күн бұрын
There are people that strive to improve themselves by challenge, risk, reward and learning, and then….there’s other people.
@sonyantony837719 күн бұрын
Thank you for your great expertise and videos. Got great insights in planning and execution.❤ from India
@build-better-things18 күн бұрын
Thanks and best of luck to you
@xxmerkxx430119 күн бұрын
Great video, I’ve been installing sip kits for a while and I’ve noticed a lot of people wanting to build out of sips are looking to make green homes, ultra modern homes , energy efficient and make them air tight etc
@suvvx90020 күн бұрын
Ive just come across your channel and you're making some of best property and diy content on KZfaq. Videos are well thought out and informative. Thank you.
@build-better-things20 күн бұрын
Thanks a lot. I really appreciate the comment.
@cliveRackham21 күн бұрын
Great video thank you.
@drankton23 күн бұрын
I just think in your video you do need to be careful how you worded things as I think you are talking about doing electrical work in Scotland. Yes the Electrical Regs are the same across the UK, this is where it ends though as Building Regs are slightly different in other parts of the UK. Work that is notifiable in Scotland can be slightly different than the rest of the UK and they require a warrant to be completed in Scotland by the installer as well as the certificates. It is always best if your unsure to contact local building control as to what is required. As for the technical side, you maybe should have mentioned that you also needed the electrician that is signing off the work to design the circuits; and that he has given you your cable shopping list. On the Insurance side anyone that is attempting to carry out the work and thinks that you can just get the Electrician in at the end to just do the testing and issue a certificate, you will be lucky as they are legally carrying the can for your work and probably will not do it. Not involving an electrician from the start of a project will most likely void your insurance if the worst was to happen. That is not the case here from what I've seen in the video.
@build-better-things12 күн бұрын
Building regulations in Scotland, England NI and Wales defer to BS 7671. The obligations and procedures are the same wherever you are in the uk therefore. I did mention the need to liaise with your certifier at design stage and throughout in the video , several times. Your comments about insurance are incorrect if you’re working to get your certification and ….you end with the usual nonsense and scaremongering
@caichengfeng315825 күн бұрын
Where can I learn about in Georgia state?
@YoB-g7o25 күн бұрын
Thanks!
@build-better-things25 күн бұрын
Thank you very much.
@MrGrantspants26 күн бұрын
Hi, I’m about to build a workshop in my garden (timber frame, insulated and clad), and I’ve looked at other peoples builds-sheds, garden rooms etc. I noticed a lot of people are using 4x2 cls but with 400 centres in the wall studs. In your video, you say you are using 600 centres. Any idea why people are building garden rooms with 400 centres? Are they over engineering or am I missing something? Great video by the way 👍
@build-better-things26 күн бұрын
Hi. Good question. Yes, for a 2.5 to 3m high wall, 400 centres is not only over engineered, it’s a bad detail as it creates even more thermal bridging where you’re putting insulation between. I don’t understand why so many do it. 600 centres with 4 x 2 is more than enough provided you use noggins at mid points and OSB sheathing. 2 storey mass build timber frame homes are all at 600 centres with 4 x 2 CLS
@MrGrantspants25 күн бұрын
@@build-better-things thanks for the swift reply. I was looking at it and wondering why, especially as you use more timber. Another side question to that f I may - would you recommend cls or treated carcassing timber for my purpose? It will be boarded with something inside but I’m just in the process of looking at costs and also wondering why people use smooth planed timber when it’s for stud frames and will be hidden.
@build-better-things25 күн бұрын
@MrGrantspants for the very small difference in cost, I would always choose CLS treated. Less irregularities and easier to get plumb and level therefore. Plus you gain 5mm-10mm of floor space all around. But not really a big deal and go with what you fancy.
@BigJProductions28 күн бұрын
This video is depressing. so much bureaucratic BS! uk looks like communism. the thought of it make me feel sick. now they have "building regulations approval" seriously? humans have been building shelters to 2 million years but suddenly all that s**t is "necessary". So glad I don't live there!
@dwayneharris478729 күн бұрын
Thank you!!
@build-better-things29 күн бұрын
Thank you very much.
@DoctorRetina29 күн бұрын
Hi Jerry. How do you fasten 50mm insulation externally over the studs? How would i then fasten render board over the pir? Im assuming I'll need some sort of DPM between render board and PIR. Thanks again.
@build-better-things28 күн бұрын
Put a couple of temporary fixings through the insulation into the studs , to support your insulation, then add your breather membrane, then you fix your vertical battens through the insulation and into your studs using tube washers and fasteners which will also support your insulation. Then you add counter battens and then your render board.
@DoctorRetina28 күн бұрын
@@build-better-things Amazing thanks! What if I don't want the ventilation behind the render board in the interest of making the wall as thin as possible? Can I use some sort of waterproof render that will keep the rain off the wall? I'll have a good quality vapour control layer on the inside so no moisture will get through in to the studs from inside. Similarly if the render is perfectly waterproof then the studs will remain high and dry permanently. I know some of the EWI manufacturers claim their silicone render can provide that degree of waterproofing to the outside. What do you think?
@build-better-things28 күн бұрын
@DoctorRetina you definitely, 100pc , need ventilation between the membrane and your render board, regardless of the vapour barrier.
@DoctorRetina28 күн бұрын
@@build-better-things Thanks Jerry, I'll definitely keep the ventilation gap. I've got a load of 10mm battens that I can use as vertical battens and counter battens = 20mm gap. Is that adequate or is more required? Also, can you help me understand the science of ventilation gaps. What exactly is the ventilation gap drying out if water can't get in from inside or outside? Thanks again.
@build-better-things28 күн бұрын
@@DoctorRetina strictly speaking needs to be 50mm but for a single story you might be ok at 20 if you’re really set on reducing the depth. Need to have gaps or vents too and bottom. The purpose of the ventilated cavity is two fold. To allow vapour to evaporatethrough the breather membrane, combat any dew point , as well as any residual moisture that gets in through damp or the outside. Look up “rain screen” to get a full description as I can’t do it here
@bricklayersworldwithandy627729 күн бұрын
Cavities were always airtight and sealed at the top, its the way we were taught at college in the 60s and 70s and were always built like this.This only changed late 70s with the advent of cavity insulation which had to abutt the roof insulation.
@build-better-things29 күн бұрын
I’m too young to know about building in the 60s and 70s but maybe that’s the reason there’s so much damp and sick housing from that period. Always ventilate your cavity.
@bricklayersworldwithandy627729 күн бұрын
@@build-better-things Yea ok, ive opened hundreds of houses up from that period and earlier with compo in the trays, bridged ties no vents all bone dry.
@build-better-things29 күн бұрын
@bricklayersworldwithandy6277 I believe you and I know you’ve got way more experience than me on brickwork. I’ve watched your channel before and it’s really good. I agree you need to seal the cavity at the top in certain circumstances, for example… to prevent fire spread, but in my view you can and should ventilate the cavity, even if there’s no insulation.
@bricklayersworldwithandy627729 күн бұрын
@@build-better-things Maybe but it wasnt done that way years ago, thats why air bricks to ventilate timber floors and ventilate larders etc were tunnelled through the cavity with slate to stop them venting the cavity.I was actually taught at college to spread a bed to give minimal snots and any that you did get you didnt scrape of you left as scraping of you would always drop some but that all changed with insulation.
@paoemantega8793Ай бұрын
Thumbs up defo - another excellent building tips and best practices video thanks for sharing
@build-better-things29 күн бұрын
Thanks a lot for your comment. Appreciate it.
@BenzkneesАй бұрын
When you say Building Control will 'insist' on a Structural Engineer's report on foundation design, is that just applicable to Scotland? I've never heard of such in the rest of the UK.
@build-better-thingsАй бұрын
If you go down the full plans route in England, it’s a requirement to provide from structural calculations as part of the application, or, alternatively, I believe they will now accept an SER certificate. It’s possible to go down the Building Notice route, which is where you build the stages, and they inspect. It’s a false economy to go down this route, especially as an inexperienced self builder, as you never know what the individual inspector will and won’t accept. Structural calculations are still required. If you’ve never heard of the need for structural calculations for foundations, perhaps you’ve paid for the calculations to be checked by the council, or you’re doing work without the proper permission. Either way, structural engineering input is absolutely required, everywhere in the U.K.
@jako530Ай бұрын
What would you use for a first floor bathroom with a picture roof ????
@alangreenley3257Ай бұрын
you want the perfect job, you have to pay the perfect price" you only get what you pay for" like everything else, there is a right way to do brickwork, and there is a wrong way, always check out your bricklayers"
@dougierangerАй бұрын
Are architects terrified of being sued now so they over compensate?
@build-better-thingsАй бұрын
Architects don’t size beams, structural engineers do. They’re just designing within the guidelines set , so their process is mathematical in terms of sizing, not really subjective …but, I’ve no doubt, litigation precedent is a factor in how these parameters are evolving.
@garyhollywell2112Ай бұрын
How are you avoiding vermin ingress below your floor level?
@nadsburgerАй бұрын
Thanks for the great videos. How do you fix the walls to the foundations?
@build-better-thingsАй бұрын
A few L shaped holding down straps to the outside, and inside, 100mm screws through the wall frame sole plate into floor frame, and then 90mm nails shot through on diagonal, again through sole plate into the floor frame. Thanks for your encouragement.
@dougierangerАй бұрын
This’ll be awesome when it’s complete. 👌🏼
@SimonFaeDennyАй бұрын
I have no experience in the building industry. We're about to start a single story extension and whenever my wife or I wonder how does this or that work with the build process your videos have given the exact answers on multiple occasions. Thank you very much for sharing your experience and info 👏👌🙏.
@build-better-thingsАй бұрын
Thanks a lot and best of luck with your project.
@teddysuhrensghost263Ай бұрын
Some excellent and very valid points made here, I couldn’t tell you how many arguments I had with supervisors over strongboys before I worked for myself, they have their very limited uses, such as supporting new lintels for a very short time, but anything involving major structural alterations has to be needled. Also, cavity trays are essential for lintels, areas of higher ground level against the building, and of course at abutments. However, I feel that they are sometimes specified needlessly at floor level and do more harm than good. Depending on the ground level and conditions, I feel that in most situations a standard dpc is the best thing. Just my opinion and you may not agree but I do think trays have a vital function but only in cases where they are necessary, and aren’t a fix all for other issues as some architects seem to think.
@build-better-thingsАй бұрын
Thanks, good points you raise. on the cavity trays at ground level, yes, detail specific and definitely something I should have explained more.
@person8203Ай бұрын
Is the outer leaf not tied to the inner?
@build-better-thingsАй бұрын
Yes, that’s right
@Jules-hn6unАй бұрын
And if you make any mistakes it’ll cost you a fortune to correct. If you think it’s expensive hiring an expert, it’s nothing compared to how much it’ll cost you using a novice
@build-better-thingsАй бұрын
The point of the video is to explain in advance the pitfalls and the techniques of pouring concrete so people, novices, can make an informed decision for themselves, plan and execute. If you never learn, never risk, then you never have reward. I guess your view is one way of leading your life, but it’s not for me.
@stevemcilroy.62Ай бұрын
Thank you
@davidreidy4154Ай бұрын
Hi very informative description of the works, excellent, just wondering what software you use ??
@build-better-thingsАй бұрын
I use Google Sheets with my own formulas for quantifying , and Sketchup for the 3d and virtual building work. I export the data from sketchup into Sheets to give me my exact quantities and add wastage.
@davidreidy4154Ай бұрын
Thks for the replay much appreciated, I will be doing a shelf build next year and I will use you information and videos, absolutely 💯 brilliant tks 👏 👌
@dmitrijs_GLAАй бұрын
Hi Jerry, forgot to ask - how air permeable is OSB 11 mm, which you mentioned in your earlier videos? I am planning on using high density mineral wool insulation (e.g. Rockwoll) for better sound insulation (planning to use the gardenroom as a woodworking workshop and I would like to keep my neighbours happy :) ) , over thermal performance offered by PIR. Will fixing of OSB over the outside of the studwork, provide a chance for the moisture (seasonal and from gradual drying of the timber) to escape through OSB and leave via the breather membrane? Thanks again.
@build-better-thingsАй бұрын
With the glue they are using now in OSB they are fairly impermeable but vapour will get out through the joints. Make sure to have the breather membrane on the outside of the OSB
@dmitrijs_GLAАй бұрын
Hi Jerry, I am really glad I found your channel. Lots of practical tips and very logically explained. I am in the process of building a small garden room (~9m^2) near Glasgow. I was wondering how do you go about supporting the 4 corners of the flooring (e.g. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i7VhfKSnmNnSpY0.htmlsi=8gqjWhF-C93twD-9&t=368)? Is it a good idea to offset the the perimeter joists by a bit (~20 mm) to allow for fixation of the chipboard, but still provide the support for the bottom plate of the wall (with the created opening to be filled with PIR insulation)? Thank you. Keep up the good work!
@build-better-thingsАй бұрын
Good question. I screw a 200mm wide x 50mm deep noggin or dwang at the perimeter sole plate only to the short ends, so the 600 wide board where unsupported, to prevent movement. I cut the floor insulation to go below the noggin. I don’t do it along the 2400 board length because the joists are there to do that and of 400 centres you’ll have no movement. I don’t offset the perimeter joists because I want to optimise the insulation in the floor. Thanks for you comment.
@ronanobrien5615Ай бұрын
Very good detailed information👍🏻
@build-better-thingsАй бұрын
Thanks a lot
@FrostokovАй бұрын
Really helpful points. On the last point about cavity trays for walls adjacent to a monopitch extension, what about in traditional buildings/older properties where there is a solid masonry wall with no cavity? Are there any precautions to consider?
@build-better-thingsАй бұрын
Great question. Deep chase with lead flash insert and sealant. 150mm upstand. Wraps over roof abutting flashing. Most solid masonry will be at least 400mm so going deep with the chase should be ok.
@FrostokovАй бұрын
@build-better-things thanks for the reply, that's good to hear, cheers.
@build-better-thingsАй бұрын
Definitely need to ask a lead worker to double check. Different stone in different areas reacts differently and the local experience will know best.