It was made wrong the first time and then the second time also. Even the trap is backwards. Gee whizz. Just brutal.

Instead of connecting to the house venting system, you could have put an air admittance valve right after your P-trap, thus avoiding the max trap seal depth problem.

Not Good!! NYC PLUMBER!!

Sorry, but this will still siphon & stink sometimes. Code violations: 1. Vent must be at least 2 pipe diameters (4") AFTER the p-trap. So you need a flat drain (trap arm) after the p-trap but but before the vent. It can be 4" to 60". What you have now with the vent right above the p-trap is effectively an S-trap. It will siphon & stink sometimes. 2. Trap seal must be less than 4" deep. You can't make it extra deep like that. It will siphon & stink. 3. No flat (horizontal) venting below the flood rim of the tub is allowed. So you need to either redirect the drain under main vent shaft going straight up, or install a new vent shaft straight up with no horizontal sections below the top of the tub. As it is now, the vent will clog over the years from occasional back ups, then stop working, causing siphon & stink in your bathroom.

Keeping the sewer side of any trap at atmospheric pressure via a vent also prevents that same vacuum effect from waste water leaving the trap. Nothing worse than a dry trap.

I can't understand how the plumber did not spot the vent connection was on the wrong side of the trap. Not all "plumbers" are properly trained in the plumbing code just people that are kind of handy. Always ask if they are licensed by the state, anyone can say they are a plumber.

idk what all these comments are being rude for, and the plumber you had come look at this must have made a mistake also. i can see immediately from your before picture what the problem is. the trap is hooked up wrong. the trap needs to be vented, not the drain. if you were to swap the two tail piece or "stub down" pipes, it would be correctly piped in the before pic. it actually takes a well trained eye to see why the before pic setup does not function correctly because theoretically it should work. the reason that its not working is because the drain is above the vent. you cannot go horizontal vent before the p trap and below flood level rim, that is why i said the drain is above the vent. edit: i just realized i couldve explained this in much fewer words: in order to vent in the before pic, it has to syphon the p trap.

yes this works but sorry this is not up to code as that sanitary tee is being used incorrectly. It should've been installed on the horizontal pipe rather than the way it was installed here, its backwards. It could have been used on the vertical pipe but the sanitary tee is backwards in this video and by the looks of the amount of space available the only option would be to have it on the horizontal pipe with the vent coming out the top of the horizontal pipe or at least no lower than a 45 degree angle.

Never ceases to amaze me that you had a plumber out who couldn't see the problem, maybe it was the same plumber who did the original construction. Also wonder how or if it passed original inspection.

The sanitary tea and trap needs to move toward the vent goes straight up vertically. The trap arm cannot be longer than 5 feet.

A vent cannot change directions below the flood rim of the fixture it serves, If there's a blockage in the drain that vent will also fill up with water. Vent must be at least 6 inches higher than the flood rim of the fixture it serves before it can change direction, 6 inches higher than the edge of the tub. That method is actually a code violation

This is not the way to properly vent a fixture. I am a master plumber with decades of experience and this was one of the best homeowner hack jobs I have seen in years. I do appreciate the effort!

That trap had no arm...

All that yapping and ya still fucked it up

This little kzfaq.infoUgkxVoi3B4CB6Oygq1-vo4OTL1M_M5JkrXif tub works perfect in our 6 x 6 shower and is easy to get in and out. Also easy to drain.

All wrong buddy, back to the drawing board.

Lol it is unbelievable how clueless this person is. He probably did the original plumbing mistake and tried to fix it doing more mistakes. Never seen a sanitary tee attached to a trap. Also a vent cannot go horizontal until it is 6” above flood rim. I am not a plumber, just a homeowner who knows basics. People like this guy seriously need to hire professionals because they are incompetent.

I’m no expert, but if you ever have to snake your drain, that snake will straight to your vent , because of T for your vent

Can't use a 90 on It's side on a flat you have to use 2 45's for future reference

This is still wrong

On the discharge side of the drain you cannot use a sanitary tee you should've went off with wye and a 45 or so connect to this vent vent keep drop going drop down with the 90 into the pee wrap and up to your shower. The way you have it is incorrect.

Wrong can't 90 below flood level big dog

I think i have this issue, but after watching this there is no way I can solve this myself :( How much should I expect this service to cost if I found someone to come do it?

Hello Sir, is this gona cause water drain very slow? there will be a positive pressure from the shower drain to the P trap, am I right?

Well, yes, and of course.. basics of plumbing.. that is what happens if you let unlicensed plumber to plumb your shower. Hire a professional, avoid this type of mistakes.

I don’t think that’s up to code

its an easy fix just run your drain line to your vent first then use a long 90 and put a tee on the vertical with a normal trap to catch the shower and it will work fine a be legal

that is all wrong sorry

this is the issue with these sort of videos...now you have a 100k views on something you did illegally and someone who doesn't know better will go out there with the incorrect knowledge "because they saw some guy on youtube do it". People don't understand the intricacies of venting, the trap stopping sewer gas part is right but your solution just changed illegal plumbing back to illegal plumbing all over again, best bet is to tie your shower into your sink which hopefully is properly vented and do what is called wet venting, which is typically how bathroom groups are vented.

Amazed at the diagnosis! Very clever

It is not a correct install. This drain can never be sneaked. The cable will end up in the vent every time. We call this a Handyman job..

Also if omitting all air vent drainage can slow down to increase clog probability at joints.

How do you run a cable if the drain clogs? The cable will go through the trap then up the vent!?

The plumbing is done completly wrong. This is why home owners should not be touching plumbing. I bet you do not know the purpose of a vent.

A trap is a fitting/or combination of fittings installed on a drainage system that provides a liquid seal to prevent sewer gases from entering the building. Every plumbing fixture connected to a DWV system shall have a trap per code. The liquid seal shall be 2"min. To 4"max. Between the weir and the top dip of the trap to be considered a legal trap.(some exceptions are made to 6" depth for deep seal traps under certain conditions). A vent is installed to protect that liquid seal from syphonage, back pressure, wind effect and momentum. ( It will not protect against evaporation and capillary action/wicking) A trap is required to have a trap arm with a min. And max lgth. Based on pipe size. The min. Being 2X pipe Dia. And max. Based on your local code as they have changed recently in some areas. The trap arm is defined as a section of pipe between the weir of the trap and the vent connection. The min. Size of the trap arm prevents syphonage. Any connection closer is considered crown venting as some have stated already. The vent connection should be above center line of the drain it serves, 45 degrees or greater and continue vertically to a point of 6 inches above the flood rim of the fixture it serves before going horizontal. This would be in a perfect world of course but not always possible when working with existing as in your case. You should be fine with your horizontal vent as long as it's sloped for drainage. Best of luck, Kenny b

Glad you aren’t having pervasive sewer gas issues any longer, every component of this system is still a god forsaken mess. It ain’t easy being cheesy, that’s a real mess you’ve got there pal

Lol, u elected wrong, that is crazy illegal and wrong, cut it out and start over. You’ll be happy !

I'm surprised they let you vent so many fixtures on one pipe the way I got away with it is I used a 4-inch line I think that changes the number of fixtures that you can use the larger the vent pipe the more fixtures I think I don't know those codes change all the time the

Still wrong not above flood level

Weri 👎 you don't know what you talked that story for litl kids

That’s a pretty bad plumber to tie in a vent on the wrong side of the trap. That basically means it’s not vented plus you have an open sewer line in the house. They way you did it isn’t quite right but I think it will work. Technically its illegal. It’s what’s called a crown vented trap. The vent is supposed to be 2 pipe diameters from the weir of the trap. The weir is basically the water level. It’s the point where the water goes from the trap to the drain. These tend to clog or dry out fast from air moving in the vent. An easy fix for this would be to put a cleanout in it so you can run some water down the vent line if it ever clogs. Running water will usually easily unclog a vent because they don’t get clogged like drain lines do. As for the proper legal way or as close as we can get without too much demo, he’s how I’d do it. I should say a proper legal way because there’s probably multiple ways. I would have, instead of that tee, put a combo or wye facing up. The top of the combo or wye would go to the vent. Then come out of the back of the combo with your p trap. This way will eliminate the crown vent. If you could run that vent line over to a lavatory or a nearby sink and replace the drain for it with this, then it would be totally legal. It would be a horizontal wet vent. Without a wet vent to wash it out, I’d definitely add a clean out. I would have also made the previous vent into a clean out instead of a cap. Two things you can never have too much of in a plumbing system is valves and clean outs. Anyway not bad for someone who doesn’t deal with plumbing code everyday

Like others have said that is not correct.

Nothing shown will pass code, so take that into account when viewing. Plumbing codes are used for a reason and installations that do not follow code are gong to be at risk of additional problems in the future.

Listen I’ve been a plumber 36 years all you had to do is drop off a 2 “ y right before the p-trap make sure that y is above the water line then install your p-trap and that 2 y will tie into your main vent going out. Please please leave this to the pros

Great video, brother! Thanks for showing us the problem!

once you showed us the attic....."theres your problem" plus the fact your p trap is on the wrong side. There are other mistakes too but you found the problem.

As a fellow homeowner, I can appreciate you fixing a known problem. However, after researching drain/vents for an upcoming project myself, there are a few issues I think do not meet code (for future people searching vent issues). Others have mentioned the trap depth and connection to the vent (san tee) being wrong, but there is also the horizontal dry vent run below the shower flood level. Look up IPC 905.4 about horizontal vent runs have to be 6 inches above the flood level of the fixture being vented. Overall, your work looks good though, so thanks for the info!

Did you not have a county inspector come and look at it to get it passed

P before V...p-trap before Vent...