Yes, and 07:48 I show how to get any files from anywhere on your windows C: drive.

I see, thanks for your help♥️

I think thousands of livestock ranchers would disagree, and I would too. I am not a rancher, but these are very common fence types in the American west, and for good reasons. The materials are readily available, they are very sturdy, and relatively easy to build, and build at scale. It did the job very nicely for us.

I'm sorry I don't understand your issue. If you can explain more, I can probably help.

Thanks for pointing this out. I just read up on that a little bit and it sounds like in order to include a recovery partition, 32GB is required. Nice job!

Thanks for watching, and great questions here... A couple things in response: Disk defragmentation is done automatically by the OS starting in Win 7 and beyond. Also, SSDs don't' need to be defragmented. So you don't have to worry about it anymore. Disabling startup apps that you don't want running automatically, is good thing to do for sure. It reduces system resource consumption a little bit with each app that's turned off. Clearing browser cache and cookies certainly won't hurt, but the impact on system resource consumption would be minimal, so I wouldn't bother doing it. As far as anymore software tips, I would say periodically go through all your installed apps in "control panel > programs and features" and verify you recognize everything. If not do a quick search, and if you don't need that software, uninstall it. We just want to keep the software environment as clean as possible and know what's running on our computers. Also, Malwarebytes Free antimalware is an excellent periodic cleanup tool, to ensure you don't have malware. And as far as disk space goes, on your system drive "C: drive", you don't ever want it to have less than 500MB of storage left on it, but that is the bare minimum. I like to have at least 10GB available at any given time, but 500MB is the actual line that I've seen a number of times in my work, where the Operating System will start having serious issues running. And if removing data from the disk is not done, the OS will very quickly not be able to boot up anymore. I did a video on the system disk being full and there's a great free tool, WinDirStat, that makes it really easy to identify and delete junk data. Here's the link if you want to watch it: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mpmHesxh1tmwmn0.html NOTE: On any disk that is not the primary system disk (the one that's running the OS), you can max the disk out without having OS issues, but it's good to have some room on those too.

@@frankwestphal8532 Wow! Thank you so much, Frank :) What a comprehensive response. You made my day. There are still nice people out there :) My computer is 2T and I have 150 GB left however I am in the red. I have always thought that you are not supposed to be in the red that this is when the computer slows down but I guess the red is just a warning that you are nearing your capacity and not that you are pushing your computer to its limits. Good to know. Also, it looks like that the other things I worried about are not really that important when it comes to the longevity of the computer or how fast it is. What about shutting the computer down? I could not find any consistent advice on that. My computer is always on unless I go on holiday. At night I put the lid down. I don't know if it sleeps or hibernates during that time. Is it Ok what I do? Should I shut it down more often? How often? Thank you!

Hi. I usually get to reply to comments in about a day or 2. Let me know if you have a question.

@@frankwestphal8532 i have nothing to ask to be honest , but i was wondering like the last video uploaded is one year ago ig I'd like to see you uploading about what you love again :-)

Hi, and yes I probably can. Can you describe exactly what's going on?

It won't matter for a BIOS update as long as you have acquired the BIOS update directly from the manufacturer of your PC, and you know for sure that the BIOS version you're updating to, is for your specific model of computer. All a BIOS update does is overwrite the motherboard ROM. A system reserved partition is on the system disk, which is completely separate than the motherboard ROM.

Thanks for watching.

I've had this happen in the past becasue the google drive file sync application became corrupt. There could be a number of reasons for this, but the easy way to fix it is to completely uninstall the file sync app, restart the computer, and then reinstall it, sign in to it, and point it right back to your local google drive folder, in mirror mode... Exactly like I do in the video. Uninstalling the file sync app will not remove the local folder, or delete any files. After doing these steps, it should sync properly again.

I'm sorry to hear this. Did you download a hardware driver, or the system BIOS? And did you get the download directly from dell.com, or a 3rd party source? If you can still boot into BIOS, (by hitting F2 immediately repeatedly after hitting the power button), then you can reinstall the operating system, or try operating system advanced recovery. If you can do this, it means your hardware is most likely still perfectly fine, and it's just the operating system that is broken. If hitting F2 works to get you into the BIOS, then power it completely off again by holding down the power button, wait about 15 seconds, then hit the power button again and this time hit F8 repeatedly. This will bring you to windows operating system recovery options. You may be able to repair the existing OS. And if that doesn't work, you can do a clean install of the windows OS. If it won't power on at all, it wasn't the download that made this happen. Hardware can fail as well, as software can fail, and if you get absolutely nothing when hitting the power button, it's usually a power supply failure or motherboard failure. Both can be replaced pretty easily and cheaply on an OptiPlex 7010. I hope this helps!

I think this is becasue the older files in the google drive online storage (browser version) were uploaded before the google drive file sync app was installed and configured. Most online storage will error on the side of having more data, than less data. You can clean that old stuff up directly from the online storage version (browser) if you want.

Glad it was helpful!

@@papa7745 Hello, and yes this is actually one of the next videos I'll be making.

@@muzogul Glad it helped!

@@Brianb153FN When you re authenticating to the other PC, you need to also specify the domain of the other PC, which if it isn't part of a domain environment, then the domain is the PC name. So, your credentials when authenticating to the other PC should look like this: Other pc name\other PC user Other PC user password What's happening when you don't specify the domain, Is that the authentication is being attempted on your pc instead of the other PC where the shared folder is. Another way around this is to create the exact same username with the exact same password on both PCs. Then they will be able to talk seamlessly with shared folders, mapped network drives, and remote desktop connections.

@@frankwestphal8532 Thanks So Much! Its Working now.

Power it completely off (not sleep mode or hibernate mode). Then hit the power button, and immediately start hitting the F10 key repeatedly. You should then see the BIOS setup option, and you can click that and go into your BIOS.

Actually, I demonstrate the restore process in the video. Did you see any errors? No. That's becasue you didn't watch the video. "LOL".

Hi, if you're running Win 11, it means that your BIOS is already in UEFI boot mode, because Win 11 cannot run on legacy boot mode. You're good to go!

@frankwestphal8532 OK, I think I'm cooked. This is a copy of Win11, not from Microsoft

Hi and thank you for watching. Win 11 Home does not have the bitlocker option, so I think you're absolutely right that "device encryption" is turned on. You can verify that here: Select Start > Settings > Privacy & security > Device encryption. What I would do is turn off device encryption, then make the system image, then turn it back on after the image is created. This will avoid any issues with restoring if ever needed. Or... leave "device encryption" on, create a system image, but then test a restore. I'm not sure how "backup and restore" will handle restoring an encrypted system image. It would probably ask for the decryption key during the restore. Great question here, and I hope this helps!

​@@frankwestphal8532 Thanks for that tip you gave to verify - it did show that "device encryption" was indeed turned on. And following the recommendation to decrypt then make the image worked! To try find a potential recovery key for that encryption, opened powershell with admin privileges (task manager, open new task, powershell, tick "create with admin privileges") and then typed "manage-bde -protectors -get C:" (with those spacings and without quotations) and it indicated that there wasn't any key for the "device encryption". Found that command on this site: 'AskWoody' under the topic of "Windows 11 device encryption recovery key". After that, disabled the encryption and made the image like in the video. The channel 'ClearfundaTech' posted a video showing that you can see the status of decryption by opening command prompt with admin privileges and typing "manage-bde - status". I'm not too familiar with tech, so appreciate the time you and others take to make these videos. Thank you for your help. Remember, God proved His love for you at the Cross. Christ, the Son of God, died for our sins and rose again so that all who repent to receive Him as their Lord and Savior by faith are reconciled to God and saved. No secret code needed :)

The full length video is here. The shorts are just compressed versions of the full lengths. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q6mYgbxzrd2zfqM.html

Hi, and thank you for watching. I just did a couple quick tests to see how much RAM (random access memory) Google Drive uses while syncing. It was actually very low... about 50MB total, even while syncing. Do you have a solid state drive (SSD), or a mechanical hard drive in your computer? If you have a mechanical hard drive that could explain the slowness of the computer while Google Drive is syncing because the disk is doing a lot or reads, or writes, or both. Here's a quick test you can do to find out: Type in "task manager" in the search/run box, run task manager, and look at the processes tab. There is a column for disk usage. Now, with task manager open, sync a large file or group of files by putting them in your Google Drive folder. Then look at that disk usage. I'm only guessing here, but it probably spikes and if that disk usage is getting in the 70-80% range or more, that's probably the bottle neck slowing down the operating system responsiveness. You can also watch your Google Drive RAM usage here and see if that's spiking for some reason. But RAM shouldn't be spiking, because once the sync is queued up, it's the disk and the network doing all the work. And in task manger you can also look at your network usage while that test sync is happening. That could also be the issue if what you're doing on your computer needs the network, and you have low bandwidth available. In my test that I just did, the Google Drive sync was using about 10Mbps. I don't where you live, but on rural ISP networks 10Mbps is very often the entire available network bandwidth. You can run a speed test by typing "speed test" into a google search, then run it. If you do this test and see your disk usage spike, and you have a mechanical hard drive, that is most likely the bottleneck. An SSD will solve it. Crucial MX series and Samsung EVO or Pro SSDs are VERY fast and reliable, and they are what I use, and recommend. But don't rule out the network unless you have above 25 or 30 Mbps results in your speed test. I hope this helps!

Hi and thanks for watching. Good question... Yes, but ONLY if you don't use it on another computer in the meantime. If you plug the backup drive into another computer, the NTFS permissions for the system image and backup files on the external disk will be rewritten. The new set of permissions will not allow the original computer to see those files when you want to restore them, unless you modify the NTFS permission back to the way they were on the original computer, when system image and backup files were created. The latter can be done, and I have done it, but unless you want to take the time to fully understand NTFS permissions, users and groups, the easy way is to simply not ever use the backup drive on any other computer. We want one drive, dedicated only for backups, for each windows computer we are running. Also, if you're not using Google Drive, I highly recommend doing so. It's free, and basically eliminates the need to do backups. Same thing with OneDrive. I did full length videos on those if you're interested: Google Drive: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mrVdl7KWsMmcmY0.html OneDrive: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gLdjnsxkmt-4kpc.html

Thank you! I'm glad it helped, and nice work using the windirstat tool! It's a great free tool to have around.

Thanks for watching. I disagree. I have 10 years professional IT experience and formal IT education, including networking. This video is simply an explanation of the most common issues people will face with network profiles (which are different than network interfaces and active connections), why network profile issues happen, and how to change them. To answer your question, here it it is: In Windows OS (including Win 11 and since Win XP), you ALWAYS mange network connections here. Everything else is an application overlay, in an attempt by Microsoft to make it easier for people who do not understand networking, and network interfaces, to navigate in the graphical user interface: "Control Panel\Network and Internet\Network and Sharing Center" And to specifically mange multiple network interfaces, and whether or not they are active simultaneously, you do it here: "Control Panel\Network and Internet\Network Connections" This response is just a quick dive into Win OS network management. It goes WAY deeper than that on the back end. If you want to deeply understand networking, I suggest that you get a CompTIA N+ certification, or even better, a Cisco CCNA certification.

Good question... If you don't recognize the file type, you can right click it and then chose properties. Then look at the file extension on it. For examples: .mp4 .psd .txt .png .wav... etc. Then google search for what type of file it is, based on the extension. For example; "what does .psd file do?" This will give you a decent idea of whether or not it is safe to delete it. If you're unsure, it is worth a quick couple minutes to learn what the file(s) you're thinking about deleting do, and why they are there. Some files are junk, and others are highly important/required. And if you do search for details on what type of file it is, and what it does, but are still unsure, I would error on the side of safety and not delete it. Then look to clean up disk space in another area. Generally speaking though, the large files taking up disk space will very often be files you do recognize, like image files, audio files, and video files.

@frankwestphal8532 i did that after posting my original comment, and i deleted some Outlook and Skype files that have been filling up my storage (i don't use skype or outlook.) I also deleted some huge zip files because when i tried to extract them, it said "file might be corrupted or unknown" or something like that. I wanted to ask you if there are any better ways to know if a file is more important than others instead of searching every file type because that's efficient. I stopped deleting my unnecessary files when my free C storage was 20 gb, but i still have lots of pretty big files cluttering my system, and I'm honestly too lazy to search for every file type. I'm sorry if i took too much of your time it's just that my storage problem limits my uses for my device.

You're welcome, and thank you for watching as well. I'm happy it helped you clear up unnecessary disk usage.

Hi, and thanks for watching. You have just identified one of the most important concepts for all of us to understand regarding tech, in general. I want to go deep into this because there is a lot to say. But to (try) and keep it short and simple, I will say these things: 1. A lot of it is marketing, and perceived relevance, to the consumer. A different user interface (perception of "newness"), and an attempt to consolidate existing Windows OS deeper functionality in a way that is more easily accessible to everyday users (ease of use and decrease of learning curve, is what I believe Microsoft was/is shooting for with with Win 11 (and in previous versions of windows OS). In some ways, that objective as been been accomplished. 2. With number 1 said, there are fundamental security improvements in Win 11, (TPM 2.0 requirements and UEFI boot requirements). These improvements absolutely DO matter regarding overall long term security, particularly in business environments. 3. Although there is always a public beta testing timeframe of couple of months, or even a year/years, (that no tech company will ever admit to), Win 11 was highly functional, even before it was publicly released. For me, Win 11 was the first Windows OS that I could use a pre-release version of, and still got the job done as a daily driver computer, handling everyday workloads. The long story short here is that Win 11 does have significant security improvements, which DO matter. But Win 10, still absolutely dominates world desktop/laptop OS market share with 70% (as of May2024).

@@frankwestphal8532 My win 10 had a folder named "One Drive" within file explorer. Win 11 doesn't have a "One Drive" folder it was changed to "Edwards Personal" Microsoft has this new laptop locked.

Hi. And no... A BIOS update will not change any of the data, on any of the disks, on the computer. The BIOS (system firmware) exists on a ROM chip on the motherboard.

You're welcome!

Hi. Thanks for watching and I'm glad the disk encryption worked. Enabling bitlocker should have no effect whatsoever on shutting down. Even when the disk in not yet fully encrypted, the computer can be shut down and the encryption writing process just starts back up the next time the computer is turned on. So, something else is going on there. One of the most common reasons for malfunctions in the operating system itself, is malware. Have you run a "malwarebytes free" scan on it? That is the very first thing I would do. Then work out from there to figure out what's going on becasue if your computer can't execute a simple shut down command, there may be serious damage to the operating system.

Hi. No, this is a BIOS (also called system firmware) boot mode change. It does not affect the data on any disk(s) in the computer. You really only want to make this change if you're installing a new win 10 or win 11 operating system.

Glad to help

Hi, thank you for watching. Great question here. A couple things: The very first thing that is an issue here, is that there is a seamless way to this without using OneDrive to begin with. And that is Google Drive. And the reason for this, is that Android is a mobile operating system which was created by Google, and it integrates absolutely seamlessly with Google Drive and Google Photos. What you want to do can still be done, but I highly recommend that you just set up Google Drive instead of OneDrive. I use both on a regular basis, and they are both HIGHLY useful/functional. However, If you are running an Android phone, Google Drive with Google Photos, is the way to go. Here is my Google Drive video if you want to go this route. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mrVdl7KWsMmcmY0.html With that said, here's how we can resolve this specific issue... 1. The very first step here is to ensure that you have multiway synchronization set up between your PC, and OneDrive online storage and application servers. To test this, go into your local (on your physical PC) OneDrive folder and create or copy/paste ANY random file. Then, log into OneDrive online application and storage through a web browser, (like I do in the video), and verify that whatever random file you created/copy/pasted has shown up in your OneDrive online. If it has, you have synchronization in place. 2. You're mentioning a couple default folders on the phone and PC. These default folders are just recommendations for people to store data. It could be any data, but in this case we're talking about photos. These default folders will not see each other as the same location (one is called "camera roll", and the other is called "photos"), while they have different names and exist in different file system locations, when a synchronization server tries to look at them. Because of this, the photos you have in one folder, will not show up, or be deleted (through synchronization), in the respective other folder. I.E. synchronization will not happen because the servers are looking in the wrong places. 3. To resolve this, I would make sure you first have a copy of your photos on your PC. You could download them all to a temp folder that you create, or any other way to just make sure you have them, on your physical system drive(s). Backup is always the first step, before changes are made. 4. Once you have made sure you have a physical copy of all your photos, go into your OneDrive folder on your physical PC and delete any and all of the default folders that are there. Remember, these are just "recommended" storage locations. What we are doing here is clearing out ALL default or recommended storage locations, and/or folders, so that we have a perfectly clean storage location, which has already been verified (step 1) to be successfully synchronizing. 5. Then create a folder simply called "photos" within your local (physical PC) OneDrive folder. Copy the photos that you backed up temporarily in step 3, to your new "photos" folder. And from this point forward, when you upload photos from your phone, make sure that the storage destination is "OneDrive > photos". The new "photos" folder will be the synchronization point for photos, within OneDrive. Don't even worry about a random recommended folder on the phone anymore. That is irrelevant at this point. Your "photos" folder that you created on your PC, will be within the OneDrive application on your phone, and anything you put in that folder on your phone or PC (or any other device or additional phones or computers), will synchronize seamlessly. I know this is a lot, but I hope I have been able to clarify some of the backend concepts that are in play here, and the specific steps to get your photos synchronized across your devices. If you have any further questions/issues, just respond with details, and I will do my best to help.

Hi. Good question. The system image backup will include all the files, settings, applications (programs and program files), and the operating system itself. It is a 100% exact copy of the entire system drive, and when restored it will run exactly like when the image was taken. A file level backup COULD include application (program) files, if you chose to include those in the file level backup. But it won't actually reinstall those applications (programs) or any settings associated with those applications.

Nice cleanup then!