You make an interesting point about power endurance routes around 9:40 and I haven't heard anyone talk about it, but I had the same experience on my first 7c and one of my first 7b's. They were both power endurance routes. I was so happy with being able to do all the moves on my 1st try and expected to do them in a few goes. Boy, was I wrong! That 7c took me at least 5 sessions and I really needed to optimize and dial in every move, including ones I'd normally just do without thinking because they seemed so easy. Otherwise I'd not reach the crux fresh enough and it required lots of precision to make some dynamic moves between tiny edges. In the meantime I've heard plenty of stronger climbers say the route is quite soft for the grade and good for a flash :) Frustrating! I'm not sure how it works exactly, kinda like if you have a longer sequence of "80-90% of your max" moves, then you really need to do everything perfectly and build some specific endurance, whereas if these moves are, say 60-70% for you - you just do them without thinking and the route seems easy? What are your thoughts on that? And 2 more questions, you progressed up to that 8a quite fast, were you still training indoors or just climbing outdoors around that time? And do you think it would be possible to break through plateaus by just building the pyramid base outdoors and without supplemental training like hangboarding, campus etc? Thanks!

Does showering or brushing teeth have any effect on dry fasting or only if you consume water?

Thank you, you are spot on. I am a beginner and I keep telling others that my main problem is the strength, while they keep convincing me "it's not strength, it's technique". Well, I can't even lift my foot to another hold because I just can't hold myself with my fingers, having arms straight. I guess it's hard for people who have been climbing for years to relate to these initial pains. When I was shown the basic position, with arms straight and legs bent, I simply could not even fit into that position properly, much less make a move from it. So it is about finger and arm strength. At least until you can hang for at least a few seconds, while getting to another foothold. Another important point is the toe strength, which is a bit neglected. We don't all do ballet, so I'm totally unused to standing on my toes and they get tired and cramped quickly. Anyone with knee or hip injuries will also confirm how hard it can be to lift oneself with one leg only/mostly. There's a lot of aspects to the "basic position and movement" in climbing.

First of these I've seen to not be: Step 1: Borrow or rent over 1000 dollars of equipment

I do dry fasting along with dry humping . It is very helpful🙏

Try being a lone female long distance cold water swimmer. You’ll shit yourself at how ridiculous the world is x thank you for your efforts

What does vegan in Vegan Rockclimbing mean actually?

I just finished my 4 day dry fast to me it's easier than water fasting.

I cannot watch this video looking on this belayer!

You should rest at least 3 days after the 30 day workout before checking the results.

Excellent. Never delete this! 🌌💟

Damn, thanks for the toe box comparison between Instinct and Drago! 🌌💟

Thank you!, I enjoyed your video! I will get to dry fast for sure.

thanks for sharing

I wish I could get my feet in this.. it's not meant to be.

Excellent editing of scenes in the video

I am sorry to read that. 😔

The guy who design almost all lasportiva shoes is, nowadays, working with scarpa...

You talked about flat walls and overhangs but how can i manage a slab wall?? I think that the principles illustrated in the video doesn't apply in that case, am i right?

Warning : long story. But i could be worth your time ! Context : climber since 15 years, both outdoors and indoors, routes and boulders. i'm 35. When comp styles movements started to arrive first in competition, and then in gyms, i was pissed. I was pretty vocal about it, i didn't think it was real climbing, the usual rant. Then i started setting routes and boulder, i started climbing in more gyms than i was used to (meaning, instead of climbing in only one gym, i've had opportunities climbing in loads of different gyms, from time to time). The fact that i started setting with an ex pro climber played a huge role in that. Before, i thought that those moves were flashy looking, for sure, but weren't really useful for the vast majority of cases in climbing. Setters are forcing them by tuning endlessely the moves until that is the only way of doing it. I also thought that unless you trained a lot for it, you couldn't even try them, which made them very uninteresting for someone without proper technique. Boy, was i wrong ! I started doing those boulders in gyms, completely by ego : it's pretty frustrating flashing some of the hardest color graded boulders and not move in some that are middle range. So i tried anyway, and i learned. I learned those presses, those step to step, those "rainbow rocket" style boulders, etc. The very first thing that came to my mind was "holy hell how fun is that". Really. it's like dynos, or a new skateboard trick, or surf figure, whatever. Super strong feeling of accomplishement. And the good part about it is that once you start having the basics, like with any technique, you start being able to apply it to harder versions of it. I also realized that i actually am pretty good at that style (which should have been obvious to me, but i was blind because scared !). And i started being able to do those boulders or routes that included these new kind of moves. In my local gym, where we have a group training young strong climbers, i also felt pretty cool being able to share their boulders or work routes with them. it's super cool feeling being part of their comp world (even if you dont compete yourself) by climbing with them. it's also pretty cool seing differences in styles (i usually crush them at any route including crimps or endurance management, but can be beaten on slopers presses or dynos pretty easily !) and spending time on the same stuff. Last weekend, i went to a gym and was able to do two boulders, coordination style, hardest color of the gym. And i realized that if i hadn't started learning that 3/4 years ago, i would have been slowly limited to less and less boulders or routes in gyms. Because, truly, we will have more and more new styles to come. So that's my vision of it : we all know those "old climbers" that never climb the big overhangs. Or never dyno anything. You know, kinda grumpy sometimes, generally looking for crimps and pinches in vertical or slightly overhaning terrain ;) Well, i was on the path of becoming this grumpy climber for younger generations, i'm afraid. I will make sure that it doesn't happen in the future. By the way, i still think that's it's unlikely that those very coordinated movements will be the best path outdoors. you do have to tune them very finely to make them work. However, i said unlikely, not impossible, and working those moves actually helps you in areas very much relevant to climbing : body positionning, momentum management, risk aversion, and so on.

Hey Mani. Glad to see you from time to time. We're going on a undefined long trip (1 year at minimum), and i'm actually looking for board sessions when i wont be able to climb (do you remember me ? Guy on corsica, commenting loads of videos before your long break, somehow oftenly following the same life path as you, or the other way around...anyway!). i think it's a pretty clever idea to use the unbalancing effet of the portable hangboard. I do find that 30min is a bit short. However, you have some pretty short rest times. I would consider keeping between 8to10 reps, but with 3-4 minutes rests in between. Also, i do find that one rep is "risky", in the sense that if you cant manage doing one at the end of the sesh, you might be losing some time. Wouldn't you agree that aiming for a 2reps dimensioning would ensure better results ? Take care and keep having fun !

I started traning legs and started squirting because of my freind, I used to weigh like 70 kg's like Adam Ondra and I am at his height. Now I weigh 75 kgs because of my legs beeing a big factor. But I also like to ski.. so, idk what I should do tbh. I think Adam is like 72 kgs nowdays, and a 3 kg diffrence is actually not that big :)

Danke dieses Video bedeutet viel für mich

It always amazes me to see people from all over the world visiting the place I grew up at. So many stories and memories jump in my mind when seeing the narrow streets you showed on your video! Thank you!!

So all backstepping is flagging, but not all flagging is backstepping?

just started this morning. 3 hours in.. here we go

Who own the ground you put that on?

please. use hi pass filter for audio. my speakers trying to jumpdown from shelves 😀

what an awesome video thanks mate havnt done a dry fast before im well versed in 48 and 72 hr fasts with salts very interesting love the insight into the science

I actually managed a clean "semi one arm" for the first time but not from dead hang meaning I get a slight lift-off help from my right toe. Can I continue training like this but reduce the amount of lift-off support from my right toes to one day manage the 1st part of the move with feet above ground? Cuz that is 1000% the crux for me. Using a bit of toe but making sure to "pull" all the way through the entire movement has made me go from moving nowhere to a full ROM "semi one arm" (meaning a bit of toe)

I fast dry fasting yearly 6 months I fast every other day I been doing last 10 years it’s easy when your body excepted

i feel like if you had an intro it would be nothing but screaming chimpanzees for 5 seconds

I don't understand how you are able to downsize so much. I got a pair 41,5 and I feel agony when putting them on. I wear 42 street shoes 😅

Please do more videos like this. Incredibly helpful and you are an amazing teacher. Seriously one of my favorite channels.

I think he doesn't have any flexibility.

inhale through nose

I love climbing analysis!

thx mr. monks

comp climber mani arc is pretty cool

geiler boulder

this is the kinda start where i would struggle to establish.. what would someone have to work on to be better at underclings in this position?

Really love the arrows changing size to show your applied forces. One concern is that they do kind of block out your hands in some places, particularly when you get to the top. Maybe they could be made transparent?

Love it. That's why I started watching you back in the day. Greetings from Franconia...

So much content. I like it. Thank you!

The zoomed-in shots of the holds are so helpful

niice, id like some analytic board climbing off the andromeda wall, anything planned there?

🐒

Man, so glad to see the original OG making vids! When are the arm-lifting vids coming out?

Thank god u are back

so stark.