great idea, but you'd have to call it Suckita xD

Hello, regarding the rotation of the desk lamp on the Z axis, you can use a DC plug and fix one end to the aluminum profile and the other end to the base. Of course, additional 3D printed parts are needed to fix the desk lamp. You can choose the diameter. The 60mm bearing helps fix the desk lamp. I wish your project goes well. I hope it can help you.

This series means so much to me. I was at opensauce, wish I ran into you!

I just ordered a booster kit and the rest of the parts. Looking forward to putting this together!

Having an ambient brightness mode and a user controlled mode as two different modes of operation seems clunky and limiting. I reckon it would be more intuitive and useful if the user changing the brightness up or down actually changed the brightness that the ambient adjustment indexed to. i.e. pressing increase should increase the preferred ambient brightness by 25%, and the lamp continues to adjust to retain that increased brightness as conditions change. Adding another button also betrays the simplicity of the design.

how do you make the desktop look like yours? looks awesome!

It would be interesting to experiment with having a distance sensor on the underside. You could make a "Focus"-function that automatically increases brightness when its getting pulled closer to a surface, like when you have to solder small wires etc. In this way you could go from cozy ambient light to work light without touching buttons. You could also flip the relation if you want a constant light intensity no matter the distance to an object. In this way, you effectively only alter the light radius on a surface. These features could also just be super annoying, but a test would reveal that. :D

oh I wasn't subscribed yet :O

Super awesome progress. I think buying aluminum plates and maybe metal V wheels to stiffen the joints will solve the pogo pin issue. I know that changes the 3d printed aspect, but...trade off might be worth it. Also, maybe small carbon brushes like from DC motors instead of header pins? Industrial Slip rings are typically carbon brushes

Hey!! i've been looking for a high amperage equivalent pogo pins, maybe more like a contact spring, but with the size of spring you have on contact switches and maybe a little longer ? I have searched far and wide, but my limited electrical engineering skills havent given me much help ahah! I have seen specialty companies for aerospace make some huge pogo pins for 50 or 100amps per pin, but they seem huge, heavy and expensive. I'm trying to make hot swappable batteries for my drone. So i will make a base on which i'll stick a standard XT60 drone battery on a FR4 pcb with a female XT60 connector, and tracks either side (wider than you have for the light for appropriate amperage specs), that or tons of pads for individual pogos! I'm note sure if i should go the plenty of ubiquitous 1A pogo pins or find something else, like what I imagined must exist. The main issue is that drones are subject to high g force, tons of vibrations and can require 100A peak power. Maybe 20 continuous at times. So just like the problems you have, i'd have to make sure those pads and springs get good contact, all the time. If you've ever seen something that looks like what i've imagined hmu! or if you have any suggestion or something that could help!! Thanks for the videos, huge inspiration!

Fav series on YT

since you already have that circular design on the top, it looks like the perfect place to put a knob to control brightness instead of buttons, which seems more intuitive. and following that, some knobs come with a push down type button under them, so you could use that toggle the autobrightness. of course, you would need to deal with how to press the button without repositioning the lamp :V. if i missed a previous log where you considered this my bad !! but i love this design, it's great!

Loving the series! Noticed you didn’t take advantage of the castellated holes on your QTPy - could help you eke out some vertical space in future iterations/projects, especially seeing as you had such stringent space constraints here :)

wow, very cool! I use this Dyson lamp everyday and always marveled at it's clever engineering.

Was just thinking about this project the other day, glad to get an update

What vscode color theme do you use for Python? Please lmk ❤

I would love to build the monolith one but for two monitors; would you be willing to sell x1 of the c-clamp adapter plates and x2 of the vesa adapter plates? @stevenbennettmakes

No idea how I stumbled to this great video and build log. I suspect it's from my 3D Printing searches and other things like regular Adam Savage viewings. But I'm loving my stupidly expensive Tizio Artemide Lamp and I bought it second hand. It has huge range of motion and as I'm getting more and more involved with ESP32 and HomeAssistant, this DIYson Lamp is sure one to get me interested in another project. Can't wait for everything! Great work!

How are you making those sweet schematics?

Very nice. I feel a proximity sensor would be nice. Turn on with autobrightness on approach, and off after a period of no movement. Will you be selling kits, or just plans? I feel the boards would be a nice halfway.

Good work!

Good shit bro

These updates are always such a dopamine hit! Thanks for taking us on the journey. 💡

What about making the buttons be a percentage modifier instead?

what is the circuit visualization tool that you're using? I love the look of it and would love to integrate something similar in my own projects in the future

I was using some fancy bearing that had zero deflection as it spun. It was pieces of Teflon instead of bearings. It was super smooth, didn’t need grease and whatnot. It was pretty fantastic. Maybe do something like that with the horizontal slider. A square tube with a Teflon bearing that fits perfectly to the shape of the bar with tracks.

Have you considered using a time of flight sensor to add gesture control of brightness?

IMO, four brightness settings seems like too few, hopefully you have thought of a way to expose more granular control over wifi/bluetooth. At night, I frequently run my desk or living room lights anywhere between 1-5% for silhouette lightning where you have a clear visibility of what's there but it's not bright.

The *output* of the new driver still uses PWM though, right? What is its frequency?

About the ambient light sensor, I think there should be multiple sensors to calculate the actual ambient light in the room. A number of sensors pointing at different directions should do the job. I am saying this because when I use auto brightness on my iPad or phone, it depends on how much light falls into the sensor only. if there is a light in the ceiling the brightness changes when I lay it flat on the table or when I tilt it to write. I find that a bit annoying.

About the ambient light sensor, I think there should be multiple sensors to calculate the actual ambient light in the room. A number of sensors pointing at different directions should do the job. I am saying this because when I use auto brightness on my iPad or phone, it depends on how much light falls into the sensor only. if there is a light in the ceiling the brightness changes when I lay it flat on the table or when I tilt it to write. I find that a bit annoying.

Have you considered a data-driven approach? During regular use, every time you manually set the brightness, have the DIYson record the ambient light and user-set brightness. After a week or so of use in various conditions, you’ll have enough data to plot and extract the ideal curve.

Love when new Diyson videos come on my feed.🎉

One thing I've learned is the Solar Cycle is a shorter version of the Lightcycle. Good luck on your project. I still can't believe the only lamps I have found on the market that provide high quality lighting and continuous brightness and color temperature control are expensive and very few.

Could be fun if you added a learning function of some sort in the code, whereby if you have auto brightness on and adjust the brightness manually, the microcontroller would look at the room brightness, look at the LED brightness, and set a data point for those two values as axes on a graph. With enough points on that graph you can form a relationship between whet the room brightness is and how bright the LED is

Thanks for this series! Thanks to you, I'm creating (and almost finishing) a kitchen light that has 6 cree cbx1512's, 3 pwm-capable drivers, all encapsulated in nicely looking wood. Refrigeration was a pita but I could find some noctuas @5v also pwm controlled which are pretty silent. As for operation of the light, I added a lux sensor and a presence sensor that can read out 3 different zones. It also has a rotary encoder for manual overwrite and all code is done with esphome, much easier to work with (imo) than direct Python. Once again, many thanks for the inspiration of your video series!

If you feel like diving deeper into the electronics, I’d suggest looking into techniques to manipulate the output of switching regulators. It can be pretty easily done by biasing the feedback loop with a rc filtered pwm signal from a microcontroller. There is an appnote from TI on this. I will reply to this comment if I can find it.

I’ve been enjoying my DIYson express. It was practically the first thing I made when I first got my 3D printer. The battery powered lights are a little annoying, though, because I keep forgetting to charge them, so hopefully I can upgrade to the full version at some point.

The analog brightness control is really great! I’ve always felt like LED drivers based on PWM for brightness were kind of taking the cheap and annoying way out. This driver seems to be doing something a lot more sensible!

Pleaseeee come back sooon for the final one !!!

Ong new video awesome!!

What’s your VSC theme please ? Look cool !

Steven love your content. Such well thought out and concise videos that cover well thought out projects. Take care.

Man needs some hanklights

I have never thought about auto brightness as fully as I have after watching this video! My kitchen lights follow the opposite curve from your DIYson, in that they brighten as ambient light falls, and this is what I need and expect from them, but I also understand completely why you don't want that from the DIYson. Is this a difference between room lighting and task lighting in general, do you think?

Adjustment of the driving current to the LED can cause significant color shift at low levels, but may not be noticeable in your range of brightness... I did LED and LED driver development for 6 years, about 3 billion drivers shipped...

LED driver noise is often from the PWM switching causing the ceramic output capacitor to buzz...not related to switch frequency, but the flickering on camera is. You need a driver that has the LED PWM switch after the capacitor, so that the capacitor stays charged between PWM cycles... You can probably add such a switch, a small N-FET on the ground side of the LED, driven by the PWM signal...

I'll definitely build this when you finalize your work :)

Really cool project! What software did you use to create the small "schematics"?

I do hope that you will make a kit :-D