Wow

If it’s framed right you don’t have that issue there has to be something there to attach it to

Unless you strap the ceiling first or add strapping/blocking where the edges meet to add additional fastener strength. 5/8 board, while a little more ridged may not solve the problem in this instance.

That ain’t why they didn’t screw the end of sheet down

STRAPPING IS A BEAUTIFUL THING😊

5/8 is 1/8 over 1/2 . Don't u need more support to start with? Seems to me 1/8 thicker rock still needs extra support. Why is it 24" and not 16" on center or strapping for support? Not understanding. Thank u

And if the taper dosent put the tape on right the joint will crack or if it doesn’t get smooth in right it can blister or if the tape dosent have enough mud it can blister as well

Dosent matter what kind of sheet you use weathered if it’s 1/2 or 5/8 if the sheets aren’t staggered when hung after a while it starts to crack and the way you tape/ mud as well

House is 15 years old. All ceilingsa re 1/2" drywall. No problems until the foundation started to move. So what were you saying about it all?

Shouldn't those boards be turned 90° so they are across as many studs as possible.

You should add to the title, “unless the ceiling joists are 16 inches apart”

What happens if your mom’s house was built in 1978 and the vaulted ceiling and even kitchen ceiling is cracking out? Should she replace the whole ceiling?! We tried repainting, crown molding, replacing insulation everything! Besides replacing the dry wall. So is that what we should do?😢

So this explains why all the seams in my garage are messed up.. thanks for the info. Now to find a good contractor 🤦🏾‍♂️😂

True that.... strapping is important tho..good stuff

Use crown molding 😅

1/2" ultralight is rated for ceilings on 24" center's

Doesn’t matter 1/2 or 5/8 if you have nailers and it’s screwed to it. This videos treats the symptom but not the peoblem

The more blocking the better.screws around the boarders always works.

Seems like they just floated that piece. Shouldn't be able to flex the seam if it's on the truss.

5/8" drywall is code in résidentielle and commercial dwellings for ceilings always because its fire retardant to hamper fire before it reaches the upper floors for 1hr or more , ,,,,,,,,

So how do you fix a problem? I'm having issues. Thanks

You use no coat angle on 45 angles not tape and you don’t push on the ceiling

What about resilient channel or ceiling board?

Literally just saved me from mistake I was about to make today at job I sold

Wouldn't you want to land on a joist?

I have a metal roof that has no rafters at all, and has rigid foamboard insulation that is not covered or even painted. How would I go about making this fireproof because if this catches fire from our bad electric, were gonna be toast. It burns hot, dirty, and quick! I have thought of putting fireproofing paint on it and then covering it with glued on wool felt or painting it with thinned out concrete. Would these work to make it safer? Its in my living room so its pretty important. There are no wood boards in this ceiling, its all metal with foam glued.

That’s not the reason, the reason is the screws . You need to use steel stud screws on wood to prevent that , and tape your joints with a extra light weight mud so it don't put to much weight on the paper. If you tape with a heavy mud it won’t hold up. The paper becomes to heavy and falls off the ceiling .use 20min hot mud in the end on the final coat. It will lock everything into place . Also don’t prefill any large openings . You need that gap for expansion and contraction . Lastly a huge tip is wetting all your drywall before you install, but don’t soak it. Just a little damp and install it so that when it shrinks up and dries, it drys around the screw. Sorta becoming one with it and locking that drywall into place . And stop staggering sheetrock . You just create way more work with all these little tiny joints everywhere . That’s just more options for the joints to crack as opposed to just one joint . Think about it 15 joints on a ceiling or 5 which one has the greater odds of cracking ..:.. feel free to ask any questions I might have not answered

I thought 8-mile worked in a factory?

5/8 lol dumb

Done plenty 1/2”lids on2’ never had problem

Glue the studs!

24” trusses should have strapping. The trusses are going to move too much for straight Sheetrock. I’m with this guy. If you’re going to cheap out and do it cause it’s lighter. At least throw a little liquid nail to save everyone the trouble

Should only use Sag board, 5/8 is a big problem unless you’re code forces you.

put it on wood it want crack you can hang it out in middle of the air

I used 1/4 and no cracks as long as you use a good amount of compound with tape on the seams ur good but that was me

I'd probably either use nailers so that there's an edge to secure it to, and/or go with 1/4" boards so that gravity has less to pull down to begin with.

Hmmm? Informative 😜

Wtf?

Gracias😊

Good info, that makes sense

If done on 16incenters and layer horizontal.. well it works. Just not a stuff. How ever did that they used full sheet and laid the opposite way. Thusly no support in middle at seems.. ;(

That's a nice texture. What's it called?

This is a badass tool no comparison to the angle box try doing that from the floor with an angle box🤣

Whats recommended for bedroom ceiling?

Why don’t you run that first instead of the box. Then you don’t have to go through the wet mud.

I have to get one of these!!!