That is unfortunately normal. You need to buy a RCI skid plate or something similar.

@@Oxman_Garage really?? Thank you!. To be honest, this is completely unacceptable for a 60k truck. I can’t believe Ford doesn’t at a freeking splash shield. I barely have 12k miles on it and I just noticed it.

Agreed, it's ridiculous. They should have had something like the RCI skid or Tremor.

I’m not an expert but you should be good. Take this with a grain of salt but people use gen 2 heads because they flow the best, however since you have a gen 3 long block you should be able to just slap gen 1 timing components and call it a day.

I would do 3-2-1. Gen3 shortblock, gen2 heads, gen1 timing components. The gen2 heads were developed around the 302 Boss coyote and flow similar. Make sure you get some oil pump gears and arp hardware. Can't go wrong, you're already there.

Yup, burnouts are fun

@@Oxman_Garage my stock 5sod corolla can do that

No, not really

This is the first I'm hiring this.

Well, it worked, didn't damage anything and saved money

I have a custom DD steering shaft and joint. With my new LT headers Ill be doing something different. So I haven't figured it out yet. That's awesome! Id like to see your set up.

It depends on what block you're using. Gen1 and 3 are 12mm bolts. You don't have to use arp. TTY bolts are fine too.

@@Oxman_Garage I’m using a gen 3 block for my gen 1 and sorry about the question but what is TTY? I’m tryna do the swap but arp bolts are out of my budget for now lol

Torque To Yeild. This are onr time uee bolts. You have to throw them out after you take them off the engine. The head bolts, cam cap bolts, main bolts, crank, oil pump, etc.

You can try the dealership

I try and support products made in the USA. This particular product is veteran owned and wanted to give it a try. Regardless, my flag pole is still standing since I made the video and withstood many storms with two flags.

Thank you! More coming!

The Competition Plus

@@Oxman_Garage do you happen to have the part numbers?

F2382P is the intake F2383P is the exhaust

@@Oxman_Garage thank you sir. That's what I came up with as well. So, you just lapped them in with the factory valve job?

Put it in the position shown, even if the cam isn't all the way down. Start the tourqe procedure. If the cam moves, use a wrench on the flats of the cam to keep it in position.

@@Oxman_Garage awesome thank you sm

Thanks for the reply KDJUSA! I made the height of my bench roughly 36 inches. I wanted it to be half my height at 6 foot so Im not leaning forward.

I have a few parts leftover from my old set up. Ill be selling a GEN1 Coyote F150 this summer. Check out my ebay for current parts. www.ebay.com/str/milwaukeemustangautoparts?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=k0tyd_i9r3u&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=k0tyd_i9r3u&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Did you already put out that how to coyote swap a mn12 video?

I'm asking 950 on FB, but if you're local Id do 900 pickup

​ A little rich for my blood atm, thanks for the reply though. FYI I have a 2001 ranger, push rod 5l, 72mm turbo. Guestimating 600-650hp.

​@@Oxman_Garagea bit higher than I have the funds for atm. Thanks for the reply though. FYI I have a 2001 ranger with a push rod 5l and a 72mm turbski. Guestimating 600-650hp right now, on e85.

Im not sure, but this skid plate covers the air dam and front frame section. You would have to eye ball it and see if it will work.

@@Oxman_Garage Got it Thanks

Thanks! The first one you listed is correct. You got this! :) 103 lb. Ft. Loosen 360 74 lb. Ft. 90 degrees

@@Oxman_Garage awesome thank you man. Slapped it all back together and it runs like new. Followed alldata originally but finding your video gave me such peace of mind with physically seeing how you had it lined up compared to mine with the timing marks. One thing I can definitely say to anyone is use the proper tool for that crank pulley. I tried to using the install bolt from MMR and didn't have much luck unfortunately. Not sure if it was just me or if there was something I was doing wrong or what. Started feeling way too tight as I brought it in, I stopped and decided to rent the tool, lucky I did because when I took the MMR bolt out, it seemed it was trying to strip the threads either on the bolt or in the crank a little. Saw like 1 or 2 metal shavings. Rented the OEM tools balancer installer tool and it went on like butter. Barely had to use force, I guess because all of the force is applied to the nut and not rotating in the threads of the crank.

I'm currently selling the AJE tubular K member, Fuel cell, lots of odds and ends from the old set up. www.ebay.com/str/milwaukeemustangautoparts?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=k0tyd_i9r3u&sssrc=3418065&ssuid=k0tyd_i9r3u&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The kit is not for everyone, I enjoy the kit and think it looks great. Ricaros are cool too!

@@Oxman_Garage no it looks great I'm just too lazy lol

Thanks Darrell, appreciate the support. Yes, love the Bill birds.

No problem, let me know if you have any questions

Tha k you, appreciate it. Yes the screws suck, I did use a longer better screw.

Not long at all, check out Coyote Swap Cobra playlist for the engine assembly video.

Absolutely, you don't have to remove the engine. This can be done while the engine is in the car.

@@Oxman_Garage thank you, the car has only 50k km, but sadly the passenger side phaser is broken, the center pin that moves the valve is stuck and the phaser won't move from the fully advanced position. Beside the phaser, since I have to disassemble lot of parts, would you suggest to replace all the timing components, chains guides etc or replace just the phaser? I'd love to change it without removing the timing cover but I assume it's impossible. Thank you so much

Check out my Thunderbird playlist

I just checked out your interior video, I love the red seats, that's awesome!

@@Oxman_Garage thanks buddy! I love them!!

I would, and apparently thousands of people across the country. Mine is still working to this day with zero problems.