Hey mate, fantastic video, I will definitely be doing this. I need this particularly because I cant open the door from the outside at the moment. I have bought a replacement solenoid but cannot get it to activate at all, opening handle doesnt do it. Any advice? Solenoid is getting power I have checked, thanks heaps

Thank you for this video, mine was already acting up, but now is as good as new, thanks again!

After about a year or so of inactivity I fired up MSFS2020 and plugged in my Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS. Pulling hard to the right. Bad rudder. I followed your instructions up to a point. I used my $15 Aliexpress lockpicking kit thingys to push the trigger pin out and pulled it quite easily with pliers. Loosened the screws. I used the thing that looks like a speculum. :o Like reverse tweezers. Sprayed some Servisol Electronic Circuit Board Cleaner into the widened gap. Gave it a few twists. Tightened the screws. It works PERFECTLY now. Thank you so much mate. <3

i had a 4th nipple appear

Great how to vid. Thanks!

Thank you for this video, i opened the bottom thinking the mechanism was there, but i was wrong, googled it and found ths video. But i used contact cleaning spray to lube and clean the switch, not a cotton swab with IPA.

Thanks for this tutorial. First one took me an hour, 2nd was 20 minutes, but got both my sticks working again, so Elite's back in my rotation again!

Albeit 5 years late to the party but thanks for a great video. Probably a bonkers question as I can’t be bothered to try it out in rainy England but we have a VW high roof camper van and the 93798 came with it. Even though it’s a Universal Rear Tent I can’t imagine that it would work with the barn doors of the high roof vehicle. Do you think the airlock part of the tent might reach? I’m guessing not! 🤔

This happened less than 1 month after i bought it too.

It's ridiculous that it's a known fault, one could say, it's intentional. Which is very anti consumer. But lets hope this works on the airbus version. Great video

According to the rules an active card that has an element can also be used also once every turn.

Love it, well done and thanks for the great presentation.. I am now on controller # 3. All 3 now have stuffed potentiometers. No amount of cleaning helps now and I want to replace the pots - and don't want to resort to the Hall sensor mod. Thrustmaster cannot identify for me the spec and suppliers for these parts so I reckon that's that.

Excellent video - always wonder WHY they have a cockpit on a remote fighter!

I had one of my dual T16000M's start having this phantom twist input, which was bound to my ship rolling. It didn't happen all the time but once it started it wouldn't stop. Eventually my second stick started to have the same issue. I just followed your steps to see if it will resolve the issue, but wanted to say, I found for an easier reassembly, remove the buttons to the left/right of the hat and just focus on getting the bottom button and hat situation. Then, while holding it so the circuit board is level, use tweezers to place the pressure nipple thing directly on the left circuit board sensor spot followed by carefully pushing the left button cap down to lock it into place. Give the button a few presses and it should have resistance to bounce back up. If you did it right, repeat for the right side. If you messed up doing either, you'll need a spudger (I used the ifixit metal spudger) or something similar to wedge between the gap of the button closest to the hat to pop it back out and try again. Thank you for the walkthrough! I'm hoping it worked for me and for anyone else having this issue.

And if you need to close the back door the whole thing would collapse in a mess on the ground. For that price (close to $600) you’d expect a basic frame so you could close the back door and it’d stay up.

So, I was able to fix this only doing a partial disassembly. Basically I stopped before disassembling the trigger pin. I opened up the shell a little bit and blasted the insides towards the sensor with BW-100 cleaner while moving the stick around. I approach both from the opening in the shaft and under the hat button. This same thing usually works for other game controllers with analog sticks -- often no disassembly required at all. Just blast BW-100 into the assembly, move it around, and test it out. Unlike isopropyl alcohol, BW-100 evaporates nearly instantly, so you can really just let loose without too much worry. It's also in a compressed can with a straw so it really jets in where you need it. I would also recommend testing the controller both before and after, so you have a point of reference for comparison. hardwaretester has a website with a gamepad tester that works really well.

Thanks Arvey. Had this same issue and used your video to fix it. Thanks alot.

Sending for warranty is a super hassle but they do send a new one in the end

I have 3 of these all suffered the problem I glued the nipples of doom on one of them

Followed this guide and it only took 10 minutes.. I'll test it out soon. Even if it hasn't worked, thanks mate.

just wanted to say thanks man this was a great video solved my issue and saved me money!!!!

I was wondering why my twist feature on SC was causing my ship to go up and down for no reason lol

You get a like and comment my friend. It worked :). It was a pain to get the pin out, but it worked out in the end

Well, you can leave out the 'be gentle'. I spend an hour being gentle.. less and less so. At some point I switched to a full sized hammer, I broke my small screwdriver, made a pin from a nail and smacked it with 25x the force of 'gentle'. It finally started to come out just enough for me to crab it with clippers. Now, lets see if the entire thing broke in the process.

A really nice and thoughtful review. Always happy to see a fellow Aussie enjoying the Gloomhaven system.

Thank you LEGEND! Funny, informative, and really helped! For me I noticed it was a bit of strands of glue I think? something like that stuck inside that was probably falling on the sensor. Here's hoping I don't need to do this again.

So far the trigger is the only thing that has give me problems. I removed the pin by placing one side on a peice of wood with a hole in it, and tapped the otherside using a small nail with the point removed. It took some moving. Thanks for your time and efforts in producing this guide.

Great video. Ive had my T16000M for 10 years and im glad to say its still going strong. My only problem was the trigger button but by removing the trigger and cleaning it all out its worked perfect ever since. Ill keep you channel on file so I will know what to do if this problem or simular ones occur in the future. Thanks.

It worked like a charm with my thrustmaster airbus joystick, thanks I almost bought a new joystick.

Nice to see you again!

Great video - thanks! I’ve been dying to see this played as it looks right up my alley but I haven’t been able to justify full-size gloomhaven. Excited to get this one now!

I’m going with my daughters’ nail polish. Never rub off.

A banana for scale would be helpful next time. Great vid thank you, can’t wait to play it

I loved your Elite: Dangerous videos so much I'll give any new directions a shot. :)

I remember watching your elite dangerous vr videos. It’s been a minute

Glad to see you back man!

Hey guys, look who's here. WB Arvey ! 🥳

Arvey Jay, many thanks dude, another joystick saved from recycling

What's the song played at the opening?

Had a major scare trying to hammer it out. Something slipped and the controller was off its axis inside the handle. The square sensor got knocked out of its position on top of the stick and i had to finagle with it to get it back in place, which was tough since the pin never was able to be removed. Thankfully think i got it back in place by bending the two halves apart enough to fiddle with it with some tools and tweezers. The bottom of the square sensor has a nub that points forward that needs to slip into the top of the stem. The good news is, I found I could get a q-tip with solution into it and swabbed the square sensor without having to take off the entire two halves of the joystick! so, if you can't get the pin to come out just carefully bend the two halves apart and poke q-tip in and it'll work fine.

Thx! I have 2 and they both started having this issue - seems fixed. Awesome

Remember the time when thrustmaster and Logitech made industry leading hardware with quality above all? Yeah. im old.

Such a shame. These FDev artists spent weeks or months putting in all this detail to ship interiors. Then FDev decided that ship interiors arent something they want to release. So much unrealized value.

you are my hero. I cant thank you enough for making this video. where do I send the check. I cant say enough on how I feel right now. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you Arvey Jay.

This just happened to me exactly as you described, was flying a flanker in DCS and the rudder started jumping all over uncontrollably, looks like I know what ill be doing for the next hour or 2.....

Nice review. What's the difference between the K72 and K52?

Unfortunately I wasnt able to perform the repairs due to that little bastard in the trigger. I watched the video talking specifically about it but the fucker just wouldnt come out, so I decided to quit before I broke my joystick and try the warranty (which will probably be rejected, considering how stores are). It is shameful that Thrustmaster still hasnt fixed this issue with their most popular product. Sure it is meant to be a cheap joystick, but still, they should take measures to ensure that this problem is in the very least mitigated, but no, they just keep perpetuating it

I have 2, one is the older version with the green light and not any of that ugly orange that makes it look cheap. The old one has never had any problems. The newer one I've now had work on twice.

AWSOOOOME, this helped me!!!!!

Alcohol and other solvents can clean away the carbon and dust in potentiometers, but there are a few reasons to use a product engineered specifically the job. A good contact cleaner (like Caig DeOxit) will do a better job, and will extend the life of the pot significantly. Alcohol (and other solvents, like acetone, ether, etc.) will rinse out the particles that build up between a pot's contacts, but it's pretty hard on rubber, some plastics, and lubricants. While a solvent-only cleaner will help with the dirty pot contacts, it can harm some materials. (Tape head cleaners use denatured alcohol, which doesn't dissolve the rubber parts.) Pure solvents can clean thoroughly, leaving unprotected contact surfaces that oxidize and grab small particles more readily than contacts coated in a protective lubricant. Good pot cleaners leave a very light conductive lubricant behind. (A bad lubricant can actually -trap- particles, turning contact surfaces abrasive, and accelerating wear. Radio Shack's "TV and Tuner Cleaner" product had this problem.) Contact cleaners come in pressurized cans with tiny spray nozzles that fit through very small holes. That means you don't need to do as much disassembly and reassembly--just blast it in, and rotate/push the pot back & forth a bunch of times, and you're done. If you don't want to further destroy our ozone layer, there are also bottles with needle applicators to get into tiny spaces. A can of Caig (now Hosa) DeOxit costs more than a bottle of alcohol, but with DeOxit you'll get another two years out of the pot, while alcohol with likely run into problems in 3-10 months.