hey Robert, The walls are 10 feet. That was limited by the city I am in. If it were me would go at least 14ft. in case you ever wanted to put a lift in there.

I ran the SE (Service entrance) cable from the panel to a big junction box in the attic space. I then rant it in conduit to make the transition to the outside of the house. So yes I did run a ground from main panel to the sub panel. As well as I drove a ground rod in outside the shop and ran the bare copper wire down to that as well.

I did ground it separately. I drilled a hole just big enough to pass the ground wire through and just used a touch of caulking around the hole

hey randy. It was 2200 for the whole place but that was 2 years ago now. I haven't priced it since then. That was for 1 inch closed cell with an R-value of 7.5.

So I did 8 feet from the corner. There is a tree in the way on the left side and the main driveway in the front of the house lines up perfect when I moved it 8 feet from the corner. I didn't want to tear a 40 foot tall tree out to get the door centered I guess you could say.

I believe I was told the R-value is 7 for 1 inch closed cell spray foam

Thank you for comment. It was more expensive to do the curb of course but my thinking was I may as well spend the money now than to have a possible downpour and it flood everything inside. I just wanted piece of mind and sometimes, that costs money. Now if your yard if flat and open I would still say build it up six to eight inches to keep the water out with some rain gutters.

I was wondering the same I was wanting to but the 20ft version with the 6 lug dual 5200 lbs axles so it has a 10,400lb gvrw instead of the dual 5 lug 3500 lb axles with a 7000 lb gvrw and a 5000lb carry capacity. My truck weights 5400lbs so it would overload slightly the dual 5 lug.

Its holding up pretty well. I had a light load of about 2000 pounds of dirt on it and I don't even want to know how much 3 pallets of sod weighed but it hauled it just fine. I had another pallet of sod but I though it would be wise to make another trip. I went with all metal because it will be sitting outside and I didn't want to deal with any rotting issues with the wood floor. Just like anything you have to think what you will be using for. I use mine for my car and hauling stuff around the house, so I won't be hauling any heavy machinery or big trucks with it.

@@ParadiseAtvTrail I hauled my old car on it and it did fine. But I was also on a budget when I bought the trailer as well. I need it to haul my car and this one was the most "economical" for what I wanted. Still over 3000 dollars though. It was done well for me without any issues, Except a lug nut or 2 they forgot to put on that I didn't notice until I got it home. I think a 20 ft was about 700 more when I was looking. So I went with 18 and had that bracket welded on for a winch. So I used that extra money for some accessories like some new straps and just a Harbor Freight tongue box.

@@centexav8931 That’s awesome thank you for the response! The prices have gone up now the 18ft is like 3800 if they have it the 20ft is on sale for 4000 it’s usually 4200 and they 20ft with the 6 lug wheels is on sale for $4800 and it’s usually $5400. I like that you put the winch and the box it looks good and I agree with you about the all metal is a great option. Wood only last a few years in the elements as I restore a lot of trailers if they aren’t stained the wood won’t last long at all especially in Texas. But the metal the only thing it can do is rust I have a similar car hauler that’s 18ft as well and it’s from 2010 and the only thing I did to it was re paint it this year so 12 years later and it looks new again. It had very little surface rust and juts the paint was faded from the sun . If I could find one around 3k I would have allready bought it lol but inflation keeps driving the prices of everything up especially new trailers.

yes the wires are spliced in a 15X15 inch box in the attic. As for the grounding, after it was inspected I went ahead and drove a ground rod in outside and took some #4 bare copper from the panel to the ground rod outside. The panel is secured with metal strut on the back of it. I am not a licensed electrician, I have just watched it done a few times and did everything I saw them do. If the panel is connected to the building via metal and that panel is connected to a ground rod, I thought that would suffice. I appreciate the recommendations. I am just trying to help and teach people what I did, but as always, if someone doesn't feel comfy, always hire a licensed person if anything is ever in question.

Metal boxes are more sturdy and just looked better in my opinion when they are exposed like that. I am not a licensed electrician but I don't think I could of used plastic as the boxes are permanently exposed. They are in a stud wall and covered up by a wall of some kind.

oh yes, the building was the "cheap" part. The foundation to sit it on and the garage door are almost half of what the structure cost. Now I put a few more bells and whisltes on mine which made the cost go up quite a bit, like the floor, AC/heat, insulation. But, yes the structure is the "simple" part.

oh no worries, We all have to start somewhere. So I googled a website that could help. www.southwire.com/calculator-vdrop I would look at the AC you are getting. They all have on there the max amps they pull. Also is it 120 or 240? You said plugin it in so maybe its just 120? With the distance and the amperage I would say #6 would work if its copper. You could always look into #4 Aluminum which would be cheaper than copper, you would need to put anti-corrosion paste anywhere you strip it. I would always try to think of the future. You go out to the shed and you want a cold one, then maybe you want to put some lights out there, then maybe some more plugs, maybe some exterior lights. any sub panel would have enough to do that for sure. If the AC is pulling less than 20 amps but more than 15 you would have to go with #12 wire inside the shed as opposed to #14. If you need anything just let me know. I am more than willing to help and explain what I can.

Walls are 10 feet tall. The city wouldn't let me go any higher. The peak in the middle is 11 feet. Without trusses in it I found that an overhead garage door opener hung too far into the structure for me so I went with a side drive opener bolted to the front wall where the door is.

@@centexav8931 how far from the fence are you

@@TheMrclos805g Setbacks in my city are 2 feet from the property line on the side and there are electrical lines in the back so there is an easement. So on the back I had to be 7.5 feet from the property line. Those numbers are based on the shop being an accessory structure and not a main structure like a house.

Thanks for the comment. As far as an electrician. That's a tough one. I would say a couple thousand dollars with labor and that may be on the cheap side. You could always hire on the rough in the shop and then finish it yourself with outlets and lights. With all the materials being up in price right now I would say the electrical in there I have now, I would say I have almost a thousand dollars in materials. That's including all the connectors, boxes, light fixtures, wire, all the little things you don't think you need that add up quick. Its a pretty big undertaking depending on your application. I ran electrical from my main panel. So the length of wire, junction boxes, conduit, its pretty labor intensive. You cant forget about the permits either if you live in the city. I would start out with your power needs. What are you going to do in your shop? How many people will be in there at any one time working? Do you want high amp stuff like welders, AC/heat, Big woodworking saws? You can always wire it up with lots of extras and just blank off the boxes when you are ready to expand. I would be more than happy to help. I am not a professional by any means, but I do things the safest way I know how. let me know if you need any other help. I wouldn't mind helping you on your project if you need any ideas or guidance on anything. Just let me know.

I am embarrassed, but no I haven't gotten it all in yet. I have the inner rockers welded in and I have the rear seat pan sitting in place but not welded. The front seat pan is proving difficult. I still have the floor braces on the under side and they seem too wide. I have to bend it too much since I may offset the rockers and then the doors will never line up. I am at a sticking point and I need to sit down and have a look see to see why its so tight. I hope I don't have to cu the braces.

Jim. There is a 100 amp breaker in the main panel. I had to open up the lugs on the breaker all the way but it did just fit. Just put some anti-corrosion stuff on the bare aluminum and it will fit.