@3D-Printerly Glad it was useful, thanks for the feedback.

@ydefy1848 Thanks for this, will try it out.

I almost never comment on videos and never comment twice. Especially when i haven't seen half the video but, this quality is what all of us 3d printing enthusiasts want to see for real visual test results. Thank you so much and please, everyone, like and subscribe to set the new standard we are all waiting for.

26:41 It's your x-steps that are out of calibration.

@ydefy1848 Thanks for the feedback.

@Waylander1001 Glad it was helpful!

@RayOrsini Great to hear!

@kurtv9375 I used a 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle and had no issues. Keep the bed clean and use glue for the PA and dry it, ideally 70c for 12 to 24 hours, which is the most important thing. Good luck.

@jibjaboftheflibflab I do, but this is just a comparison of the standard print quality. I leave the mechanical and chemical testing to those with the equipment and the time to do it right. Plenty of great videos covering that by other great KZfaqrs, no need for me to repeat them. But thanks for the feedback.

@Mr_SoulzZ yes I did, but you need to be careful, if the filament is abrasive or brittle you shouldn't use the AMS.

@josejimenez896 Thanks for this.

@serkow04 Hello, I used a standard glue stick.

@plushergaming5149 That is fantastic news, Thank you for the feedback.

Yes, i don’t split down the gears here, maybe in another video. Would be interested to know what is causing your heat creep, i have never had this, mine is stock. Looking at adding an E3D to test, and it was a concern this might lead to issues.

Take off the screw on the side. The spring and thread falls out. Grab the yellow gear and pull up. That's it.

@6643140 Your welcome, glad it was of use.

@martinpohle Danke fürs Zuschauen, glad it was useful.

@yogesh812 Thanks for the sub! Really glad it was of some use. Hope your having a better time with your prints.

Glad it helped!

@My3DPrints-ve8zl My goal here, because there are so many variables that could impact a print, was to stick tot he default for a direct comparison. Its far from ideal, but the goal was to give a different perspective. But I take your point.

@rsilvers129 For PLA & PETG it is only for looks and some very minor property changes, but really only for looks as you point out. 10% CF power added to PLA is not going to have a major impact on any other properties.

@SirTubeALotMore fibers are tiny strings. But a lot of the filaments (PLA & PETG) use powder rather than fibers because its only really for looks rather then major property improvements.

Happy it was useful for you.

Glad it was useful, thanks for the feedback.

Glad it was helpful!

Enjoy

@@T8Maker thank you!

@AndrewAHayes I think they have tuned their firmware now, so issues are far less common. It runs quite well now with minimal issues.

@hootysteve Thanks, and good point.

@denniss7805 Thank you, great to know it was useful.

@alecubudulecu risk of measuring with the tip if the calipers is that you would not be flush and get off axis measurement. But after doing some maintenance, changing out the head I got much better numbers. But I agree, unless your doing high precision prints it doesn't matter.

@@T8Maker makes sense.. thank you for explaining. now that I think of it... based on what you just said... it shouldn't matter.... plus if I do it how you showed, I get flush. if I put the item flat where you did... and zero it there... shouldn't matter as THAT becomes the new measuring zero . thanks!

I had this issue although I cant remember the error code, I fixed it by turning of the printer and leaving it for 5 minutes, I was able to push the filament forward slightly with the power off and then when I turned back on all was good and I was able to unload the filament using the unload command.

@italiano0317 The .6mm is recommended, but I did all the prints with .4mm, it depends on the size of the fibers in the filament. Thank you for the feedback.

@ThatMailMan Thanks for the feedback. Glad you're sorted.

@grayfaux_ Thanks. Do you have any issues with dust from the cardboard? Honestly I haven't tried it because I wanted to avoid dust caused by the friction. But I would prefer to use cardboard to reduce plastic waste, and I could just hover out the AMS if it caused dust.

@T8Maker No, I haven't had any dust issues. Very little dust if any comes off a "good" spool. I suppose you could use a quick puff of compressed air between spools as an extra precaution.

@grayfaux_ Thanks for this, great to know, will get a few and try them out.

@marcosscriven Thanks for the feedback, I have a noisy server rack in the same room, and I was using the music to cover it over. Not a great idea, so I went out and bought a better mic and a 32bit float audio recorder to allow me more room to clean the audio if needed. So shouldn't need background music in future videos. Its all about learning and trying to improve.

@KGTv123 Glad it helped, thanks.

@GuidoKoch-xt4tm 👍Anything in particular, or just everything?

@maximilianlindner In additional tests to get anything decent out of it, 12 hours at 50c (recommended 70c) gave me ok prints. But not sure how useful the material is over standard Nylon.

@@T8Maker I dried it for over 24h @ 70°C in my Sunlu S2 before printing (and during). I ordered some other brand PA+CF filaments to compare. Maybe the mistake is on my side

@maximilianlindner Unlike a mistake on your side, but have you checked the actual temp in your S2. I have one and it never gets above 45c inside, also it is not circulating the air. But I may have a bad one, your may be better. Most of these driers never get above 50c. The one I have used in my testing was the EIBOS 3D Filament Dryer Series X which has a fan but also never goes above 55c when I measured it internally, but it does have a fan and circulates the air which should remove the moisture filled air.

@@T8Maker That is very good advice. I will check that 👍🏻 Update: After 14h @ 70°C my digital thermometer indeed showed only 63-64°C, while the dryer display showed 70°C. From what I know 70°C is already very low for PA, but the actual 63-64°C is just not enough. I took the spool out of the S2 and put it in the baking oven at 90°C. Old school, but whatever works 👍🏻. I’d be happy to invest in a better dryer if that was indeed the mistake.

@maximilianlindner Wow, you have been busy. There is diminishing returns on dryers, by the time you pay for the dryer and the electricity it uses (every time you want to print), the difference between high end CF filament and the cheaper stuff like the eSun, it just doesn't make sense to save on the filament. At that point just buy better quality filament. The Bambu Lab worked out well dried in the Sunlu S2 for only 8 hours, even though it never hits temp. I also recently used a Qidi role of Nylon CF and I printed on my prusa directly from packing without drying and got a great print ( I was being lazy).

@Steve-es3fc Noted, I actually cut out nearly two hours of video, but agreed, it should be a 10 minute video max. More work to do on that. thanks for the feedback.

@viduraherath4008 I dont have access to an XL, but I have upgraded my MK3S+ to an MK4 and print quality between both printers depends on the filament and print. I find sometimes the MK4 is better and more accurate, and sometimes the X1 will do a better print. I am waiting on the MMU to arrive and maybe I will do a video with some comparison prints when it does.

@AndrewAHayes sorry for the late response, I assume you have found a solution, but in any case, if I understand you correctly you removed the nozzle but left the extruder in the print head? Nothing should block the nozzle going back in, but you should remove the extruder, it pretty easy to remove and put back in.

@@T8Maker Yes it was also a piece of broken filament in the extruder, my fault as I put an old roll in the AMS with only about 10m left, I have loads of these roll ends but in future I will just use them on my Ender 5 Plus machines as broken filament is much easier to remove than the Bambu is.

@@T8Maker It turned out to be one of the brass thread inserts that had become proud, I was sent a new extruder by my vendor by next day delivery.

@valentinleuci yes belt tension can make a huge difference, plus it prolongs the life of the belts keeping them at the right tension. Thanks for the feedback, and for watching.

@qwertyzxaszc6323 I would agree except for one thing, for those starting out who cannot afford to swap machines, plus waste, there is a lot of waste in 3D printing, and junking old machines is more waste. That said there are a lot of great value high speed printers now.

False. It hides layer lines and makes the parts look better. Anyone who makes product samples or sells parts cares about the surface finish. Also it reduces warping during printing, and some of us need to make dimensionally accurate parts.

It's been demonstrated through empirical, scientific, peer reviewed studies that the addition of chopped carbon fiber, glass fiber, or kevlar fiber increases strength, modifies dielectric properties, improves heat deflection, etc, etc.

I was expecting an asinine comment like this. There are absolutely benefits to having chopped fiber in your filament. Specifically petg. Pla -CF is silly unless you want the look. It adds rigidity, less or no warping at all, dimensional accuracy, bending strength in the xy, and a fantastic finish with no lines visible. I have printed and tuned petgcf across thousands of parts and at least 5 different brands and colors and am now working with asacf and getting the same great results. My parts are used on job sites under rough conditions all the time. And I am currently releasing them to the professionals I designed them for next month. Petgcf and any fiber infused filament requires more effort to tune right. You also have to slice differently. You need different offsets as well as it's very sticky. They also soak up moisture like a sponge in a bath. Not all brands are created equal and some are charging more than their filament is worth. If you have a matte finish on a petgcf part then you have not tuned the profile FOR THE PART correctly. You cannot use a Bambu profile and think it will work the same even with their filament for every kind of geometry. I can say this from experience. Your part should have a uniform sheen to it. If doesn't then you need to adjust temps, fan speed and fan-ramping logic. And lastly petgcf and perhaps other CF materials don't do well with very tiny geometries like long thin single wall lines coming off of a sharp turn. Your results are only as good as your design and your slicing. Don't blame the filament. I am more than happy to help solve your CF woes.

You need to check other KZfaqrs who had done tests and differences in performance

I print lasertag guns and I gave samples of pla, petg and pla cf ones to my cousins to take them outside and feel test them, pla returned broken, petg was bent and only pla cf survived

@HotelHero Thank you, great to know it was helpful.