I would have to check my project file to info, will update once I have it.

Much appreciated! Glad it helped and hopefully I will continue with more videos. Cheers!

Hello, apologies for the non-response. From what I have read and seen, the 3rd generation range are from (2013 - 2016). Not sure what you are looking for, but there will be some cross compatibility from R to non-R. But not everything. Hope this helps.

@@otobainoronin7877 ı have 2016 street triple 675 ABS - ı have some interesting sound the clutch when its neutural. is it same clutch system ?

@@ozguruzun9297 I haven't run numbers for the parts. But here's a link that you can start with. They should be the same. Here is one from UK: www.worldoftriumph.com/collections/bikes/products/street-triple-r-from-vin-560477-to-vin-806645 One from state side: triumphparts.englemotors.com/Triumph_2016_Street-Triple.html Just check it is within your VIN number and you should be good. The install should be the same procedure.

Thank you @@otobainoronin7877

Honestly, I tried to go with Barnett first. But there was some weird issue with getting the right plates for my bike. They couldn't tell me what I really needed as their website states some contradictory plate setup for my bike. At first they were nice, but then after, once they could not be certain of what I needed they were a little short. So I went OEM and it's been working great. I could have gone longer on the original plates, but after riding time and track days I figure it is nice preventative maintenance. Cheers!

@@otobainoronin7877 Hey Thanks for taking the time to reply. That's sad their customer service was bad for you. I think for Harleys they'd be fine, but i won't use them again. I just ordered the full OEM set. The 675r clutches are a bit different so i paid the extra. And here in Canada, extra is EXTRA! And Cheers to you too

Hello, sorry to hear about your clutch issue. That is a noticeable difference between heights. How bad were the old plates? Was there major wearing along the plates? You may want to check out the clutch cable as it may have worn over time as well with the clutch pack. Now with a new, taller plate stack, the clutch cable may need to be adjusted or replaced. As long as there were no issues installing the clutch plates, I would investigate the clutch cable first. Cheers!

Hello! I thought my bearing were seized as well. But they weren't. Yours might be. But the reason I thought they were seized is when I was incorrectly installing the clutch piece. At first the bearings seem fine, but as the clutch piece started to slip back the bearings on "close" to final installation got tighter. You need to make sure to pull out on the clutch piece every so often when tightening the bolts. Hope this helps! Please ask any questions.

Thanks mate, appreciate it. Yeah no my bearing is trashed… condensate from too many short winter rides. Thanks for your advice bud appreciate it

When disassembling, things have a tendency to move and loosen. I have a shop manual and the assembly is verbatim. But you are correct, it did come out differently as it goes in. Once you start removing the plates, the jutter/washer will move. I should have notated that, but it was my first attempt and didn't realize it. Great question though! You can keep an eye on it during reassembly to make sure it doesn't come out of its position. I didn't have any issue with it staying in place when I put it back together. I have not had any issue with the functionality of the clutch. Bike is running strong, but now I realize I should have just put in a slipper clutch too... :) Happy Wrenching!

@@otobainoronin7877 Right on, thanks for the reply. This is a great guide and I'm surprised how approachable a clutch job is. Appreciate you sharing this

Glad you found it helpful. Happy Wrenching.

Glad I could help. Cheers!

On the edges (tabs/teeth) of the A & B plate there will be a color painted on them, mine was green, but they can be different. This will help you distinguish them from the other friction plates. There are also number/codes that are scribed on the plate which will correspond with the packaging/bags they come in. Another way to keep track of them. I kept these separated from the rest of the friction plates...as not to accidently forget the plates were different. From my illustration, you can see the difference between the A & B plate. (1:00 mark) For the metal plates, they will look exactly the same, except the last 2 plates on final install. The shape is the same, you can only really tell the difference by the thickness. So again, I just kept these 2 plates separated from the general metal plates Apologies for the delayed response, currently in the process of moving. Hope this makes sense and helps. Cheers!

Hello, did you ever figure this out? Im having the same problem right now.

I know they are hard parts to find, especially now. I found this site from the Nederlands. I know there is a huge following from there and Japan. So you might find other options in those areas. But here is the site link (Nederland: www.twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/searchparts.asp?mc=1 You may reach out to Buell itself, they may have some old vendors list: www.buellmotorcycle.com/ Part numbers listed for my year model (2005 XB12SCG): FRONT (P0027.1AA) REAR (P0026.1AA) Hope this helps! Cheers!

I did replace the fuel pump once, but I have lost/misplaced the footage. But that was a task on its own. Cause you still need to suspend the bike to let the swing arm rotate. You have to release all the oil lines and squeezing around in there won't leave you a lot of room. Even with the fan out, I'm not sure that it wouldn't be any less a pain in the ass. But you might try asking some of the folkes on the www.buellxb.com forums.

I can't confirm 100%, but I don't see why not. It's just a smaller displacement. If there is any difference, it may be with a bolt location or such. But I believe this video will help you get through 95% of what you need...leaving about 5% for some differences.

Much appreciated Kevin, hopefully have more stuff coming soon. Cheers!

I just did it the only way you really can (with the airbox cover, scoops and etc off and through the frame openings on top), But I had a 5/8 swivel spark plug socket. This made it way easier. It had the rubber grommet inside to keep the spark plug in. And then I just lightly turned the extension & socket till it caught. Once you do it a few times, it becomes second nature. Hope that helps.

I don't have the exact degree on how far it will rotate. But if you needed it to rotate further, it could possibly. If you suspended the bike in the air? I had it on bike stands with a floor jack.

so you can lower and rotate it and bolt it back to the bike..with no mods?@@otobainoronin7877

If you are referring to Top Dead Center, I didn't need to have that info for what I was doing. I was only replacing the gaskets on both rockers. If "TDC" is in reference to something else, please comment. Cheers!

@@otobainoronin7877 yes, I thought you're supposed to be at TDC before removing the rocker covers to relieve pressure on the valve springs

@@jps226 From the help I got on the Buell Forums and what I found on the web. There wasn't any mention of getting the TDC for removing the rocker covers to replace the gaskets. If I had gone further, to get to the valve springs I probably would have needed that for sure. But for a simple gasket replacement, there is not a need to get the TDC as the covers don't apply pressure on the valve springs. Cheers!

I apologize for the any confusion. But lowering the bike is in reference to lowering the engine or rotating it. Hope the video helps. Cheers!