yo yo

Awesome work man

That corner is coming together. It is always surprising how much detail there is where the fender wells meet the trunk and body panels.

It is really funny how that works. Sometimes those panels can sit around for months, sometimes not. I have been seeing a lot of people using metal conditioners now. I might try that next time around.

i wipe my fresh metal over with panel prep, here in uk i use jenolite, wont rust after that

My goodness Roger. The details are really starting to shine!

👍😎🏁

IME Your OSPO is doing normal things .

Breathe! Breathe! (Thx)

Exactly what I needed to know. Thank you for the field test

nice work Roger! Beautiful welds.

hey, i got that same weld cart lol..

Great looking plug welds

Awesome work man. That really came out nice.

hey man been watching ur older videos about your gnc sierra is there anyway i can contact you about bodywork

Awesome work Roger …. 👍🏼👍🏼

Looks great sir.

How long does that epoxy stay spreadable in the jar? I love what you're doing. Top shelf as always.

Whoa! where did you get that wand thingy? that's awesome! Better than new Roger.

Fine job!

Sad to see the original Lancaster's having this type of problem. I expect it from the cheap Chinese knock-offs.

Nicely done. The zinc may give you a short term block from flash rust but lapped joint corrosion resistance sounds like copper is a lot smarter.

thanks for the video Mr Fireman! from what ive learned over my extensive research over the past two years on this very topic the 706 Castech head was hit and miss... some cracked and caused problems and some didn't... yes, shame on GM for not offering a replacement program for those that did, cause this LM7 5.3 is an awesome engine... i had a set of the bad 706 heads on my 01 Suburban that i bought in 2017 with 267k on the clock that gave me several years of okay service... over the past 6 months it was losing an average of 1/2 gallon of coolant per week and finally, at 331K, just replaced it with a freshly rebuilt 5.3, GM 706 heads, BTR Torque cam, and a few other upgrades and boy does he run like a whole different car! upon my search for the GM factory heads i noticed there were two rows of dot matrix style serial numbers right in between the 706 casting and exhaust manifold on the Castech's and only one row on the GM heads, right in the same place... im trying to figure out if this is of any relevance of a Castech versus a GM 706 head so i don't need to remove the coils, the valve cover, and the valve train to figure it out as i have in the past... so my question is do your Castech heads have two rows of etched serial number or just one? thanks again and best of luck with it.

Love your OCD! Unfortunately I suffer from the same affliction. When I replaced the rear frame rails on my 69 Camaro I found bare metal inside the factory rails. Absolutely no attempt to counteract the rust. I've seen it on modern cars and trucks also. My son and I rebuilt the box on a 2010 Silverado and couldn't believe how the wheel wells were designed. I believe they designed areas for the water and salt would pool to just eat the metal. I should have moved to an arid dry climate if I wanted to drive rust free cars and trucks.

though the burn back will be small i can see the heat being much wider spread, esp if you doing all that lot at the same time i do get why you are pre painting everything, i used to do it too but now i hit everything after the welding with the cavity gun, acid etch or epoxy then gloss on all the inside sections, makes a mess but its all saturated, then you can clean up for the paint work reason i stopped pre painting stuff with gloss on the inner sections, if it gets over heated it breaks down the paint and it flakes off inside at a later date, y

Looks great!

killer Roger... Killer! Got to get me some of those 'hot dots'!

Your work will last 100 years!

That is a cool coating, I love your attention to details. I bet a Chicago winter would have a hard time eating one of your jobs.

😎👍

Atleast spray some rust converter inside there before u box it in.

You should check out some videos on undercoating with Lanolin. Basically there are 2 types. One firms up and the other stays more pasty. It is applied with a special spray gun. Check out Repar Geek for his videos on what to use, what he has tried, where he lives (road salt) and the followup videos one year to I think 5 years later. It should be reapplied if it gets washed off somehow but it protects better than any rubberized or asphalt undercoat. I will do it to my '56 Chevy after I finish restoring it. I also want to do my Wrangler, the TJ is notorious for rusting out the frame.

what a bear! your on the line now. only thing i would do is think about fish plating the seam on the inside of the un. you have the top open, it should be easy enough to get something in there. good job buddy.

Looks like doo doo Factory mine same way 08 Colorado driver side front leaf hanger. So on that note brother that looks great sounds like good plan to me. U should work for Chevy not working on Chevy. Lol. Hey wanna get little more practice let you stay at the house provide tools food. Lol good luck brother looking better all ready cutting that factory doo doo out

That looks perfect Roger. That will be better than new. Those 1/8" plates in the bottom the channel are interesting. I would defiantly reproduce those as well.

Lks great. Lots of work. Nice welds

I like where you're going!

That is coming together nicely. Good Jood Sir

Nice progress.

I really appreciate this

I was ready to throw some shit too thanks for the video

Too far in to turn back now. Will be better than new. Good to see you Roger.

Hey, its been awhile since ive been on YT. Did a repair on my K1500 frame last fall. Bought a sheet of 11 gauge ($150). Cut the bad stuff out, & fabbed my own version of Safe-t cap. Treated the snot out of everything- so far, so good. Yeah, youre in a position where you gotta go forward.

Make an ADJUSTABLE frame dolly with sliders and custom frame/pinch weld clamps. It's gonna eat a weekend or even two of designing and making it. Then you have the freedom of removing a car from the lift even if its removed the rear end or engine and cradle. You're gonna love it.

loving this! grab a v-band clamp for that exhaust. "Other than that" . . . "Im Almost Done" 🤣😅😂

Yeah that is a tough repair. Assuming you can't buy new rails, I agree with GregsGarage. I would cut it back to about an inch from the top and remove as much of the crap as you can. Treat the crap out of what remains and then cut the other rails off the donor jeep up flush with the top and slip them over the remaining original rails and weld it up solid. My fear would be the donor jeep has the same issue but has not come through yet. Alternatively you could fashion your own rails but a lot more effort. Then weld the stiffeners on to the replaced rails and go with it. Not much else you can do with out getting into the body and a potentially much bigger mess. You are the man Roger. No mater what you do it will be better than new I am sure of that.

You've got a good plan... The alternative would be to leave the frame in place and make new pieces that are just a thickness of metal larger and just go right over the top. The old crusty stuff would remain, but you'd have a new frame around it... That method gives me a bit of the "ick", but it would leave a solid frame without the hours of cutting and patching.

Big job but worth it. She will have a good vehicle.

sick!

Better than the pros do it!