there are homes, churches, businesses that are literally 300+ years old. If anything I'd say they were better built, peak home builds were 1900-1930s imo.

True. I think most if this has been deleted. My pet peave is when the electrician leaves it in place. Best to remove it entirely if it's dead. That way there is no guessing.

I guess you may be right about hot spots but I was taught that the wire itself is subject to overheating when it cannot breath/cool. I try to be as factual as possible in my reports. Where many inspectors call out knob and tube as an extreme fire hazard, I give the details I know of with respect to the best knowledge I have. In terms of grounding, the GFI will trip if stray electrical current is detected. This of course makes the circuit safer. I see a lot of fear beeing pushed these days about lots of topics from asbestos to Poly "b". It has become quite an industry. Surprizing so many of us ever survived past 30! Of course my post is simply to show knob and tube to my subscribers. I would never classify myself as an expert.

Knob and tube does pose a mild fire risk with the conductor outer jacket (which is a covering, not an insulator like modern THHN). Modern wire may be coated with plastic, but it melts instead of burning. The knob and tube wiring covering can and will burn. Our shop does a lot of knob and tube rewires in Portland homes and the biggest risk we see is romex spliced into K&T with no junction box before we remove all the old wiring and redo it correctly. That right there is the biggest danger of K&T wiring. Adding a GFCI is safer than adding a ground, and less costly (which drives a lot of electrical projects). GFCIs trip at 4-6mA, which is a much safer level than letting a breaker trip due to a short or fault.

@@colwombat good info. Now I just need to figure out how to fix the typo title so I don't loose the thread.

I know. I'm bad for that.

Always replace. Insurance is hard to find, and expensive

@@justauser This. Looks like it would be fairly easy to replace at least that section. Then you could insulate, and save a ton of money on HVAC.

Good info, pretty much what I tell my customers.

😂😂 "life of the building is up until it burns down" I’m sure fire inspectors can attest to good copper laying in the smoldering ashes (after an electrical fire).

Sometimes BOTH the neutral AND hot are fused at the panel. I ran across that once in a 1909 commercial brick building>>it actually had rigid conduit from original build. You could not tell which was which as both wires are the same color.

Trivia: 1st street electrified (street lights) runs through my town and 1 of 1st electrified houses has knob & tube wiring and a glass panel by the kitchen to view it. This about 1 mile south of Edison’s Menlo Lab (in NJ).

Oops. I'll blame google for that one

No... you need to blame yourself (or your "spellcheck"). "Google" doesn't change the titles on your uploads...

@@Calico5string1962 it's definitely me! But Google spell check is annoying. Example basement becomes vasectomy if I accidentally type vasement. Funny, not funny! I'll delete and upload again.

​@@borderpropertyinspections2634No need to delete and reupload. Just edit your title. Not that complicated.✅

Lol reading this comment i was wondering who is knob and what does he not know 😂

Very good points. I see the tubes you refer to and have some pictures if I can find them.

I walk on a lot of roofs. If you make one mistep, it can change the rest of your life. Best to wait for the best conditions and use a safety system

I personally like Excel by ICC. This type of chimney sits together with about a 1" overlap and is held there by three screws. The other brands tend to be a twistlock style which tend to loosen off. I like thd fact that excel comes in 4' lengths and is less than half the weight of a 3' length of many other brands. Excel is S629 rated even though it is only a 1" insulation pack. Many of the other chimney systems are 2" insulation packs and have way more components. Over all the Excel is one of the easiest chimney systems to install but it is expensive at about $100/foot or more depending on the piece.

Excel all the way down to the stove? Who carries the excel products in Alberta?

Also can you pass through an interior wall? Are there components made to do this? (From a living room to bedroom then up and out)

@@benburrows9985 if you use a wall thimble and a base T stainless (insulated) pipe it is OK. If you do it with the black flue pipe you need a 36" hole through the wall. Most insurance companies won't accept a black pipe through a combustible wall under any arrangement.

Thanks again for the videos and information. Best to do it the right way and enjoy it.

I really hope not, but... When your searching for a great home inspector you should know that there is always a relationship between the realtor and the inspector. That is nit to say the relationship is bad for you the home buyer, what it does mean is it could be! This is why you need to do your research. Vet your local inspectors like you would your car salesman or investment advisor. I personally do not get too close to the realtors and to be honest that gas cost ne business. I believe the inspector and the realtor both have a job to do but they do not work together. They both should work for the client and their best interest. I can tell you it can be stressful for the inspector when they know the realtor gas worked very hard to bring a deal to the table and you know if you honestly report the details, it's likely going to kill the deal. Thus is why it's important that both the realtor and the inspector work separately and keep things professional. I hope your next inspector is much better. Check out this video I recently did about this topic. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z6mBfq-YyMinZp8.htmlsi=aPuHkeAtpHW30vKc

The more you own, the more you gotta fix!

That did happen at the rank last Christmas eave at -26°. This year it was a low tank level of 20% coupled with -40° weather. When I switched to a full tank it vaporized again. I also have a heat lamp and insulation around part of the tank and lines and regulator. The regulator at the house has been fine throughout. Thanks for the comment. Remember to follow local safety regulations when adding heat to your rank.

I think I replied to this comment but will do so again. The issue with the heated blanket is it costs $1100. I guess that is not too much if it prevents a shut down a couple times a year which saves a lot of people a big plumber expense spending 3 hours getting you up and running again. For most people however there are other ways to reduce the likelyhood of a shut down. Not a lot of people talk about this issue because propane is explosive and the wrong approach to warming the tank is very dangerous. The blankets you refer to must have a CSA sticker on them for the rate purpose. I'm not sure if this means they are intrinsically safe or not. My key take aways would be keep the tank as full as possible to maintain a better vapour pressure. Adding heat as safely as possible by means of a heat lamp or similar procedure. Some people use open flame torches or vehicle exhausts and other no so safe methods. Whatever happens you simply can't wait for the weather to warm up in many parts of the country or you will freeze. I hope my FREE advice can help a few people.

Thanks for the info.