Only metric, prioritize metric first if you must

@@beatsbynando4068 would you recommend the quinn or tekton line for the master sets?

@@beatsbynando4068 also what sizes should i am for when buying metric

I would recommend starting with metric. All euro/asian/korean brands are going to use metric. A lot of American brands also use metric. Or if you have a budget spend money on decent metric and then buy the cheapest sae. For reference I work on a lot of Mercedes and Japanese brands, and some Chevys. I keep my craftsman sae sockets in the back of my box and use them probably once every 6 months. So almost never using sae, metric will work on almost everything.

You're welcome!

Good call! I will check them out. I do have one small set of 3/8 stubby capri sockets that seem pretty solid so far.

Very True!!😂

No problem 👍

Haha thanks man!!! I just need to figure out how to get paid like a nasa tech..🤔🤔 Glad our video could help!!!

Thank you for the reply and adding knowledge to the comments section🙏🏼

Nice! I kept this set for home, so maybe I will give that a shot. It would probably also make for a cool video🧐 Do you remember if there is an type of seal in there to keep the grease in?

It was ran at 14 degrees with no issues and no pinging. But Jett knocked it back down to 12 degrees to be safe. He has since ran tens of thousands of miles and many track days with it at 12.

@@ImperiumRacing Sweet!! I did the same thing went from 14 to 12, btw what oil does he run on track?

Yup!

Another option! I have heard good things about Tekton, I think I have a random set of Allen's or something by them... I think their quality is just below Mac/Snap On, but still good enough for 95% of jobs.

No problem man! That’s what the channel aims to do, I’m glad you found our content helpful🙏🏻🤘🏻

Thanks for the comment!! Does that translate to “Promo Sushi Man” ???

For the sockets or for wrenches? Either way I would recommend the Mac or Snap on ones for sockets or wrenches. The only thing I wouldn't recommend is using regular flat wrenches. Once you've used something with a flank drive type technology you can't go back... haha you realize how bad and slippery regular wrenches are😂

Thanks! My first shop foreman showed me that tip and I’ve been doing it ever since. Heck ya! I love that tape, just wrapped up about 3 feet of a trunk harness with it last week!lol

Dude!! I never knew... hell ya great info!!

You’re welcome!

You hurt my fridge’s feelings… hopefully my weed wacker doesn’t see this comment 😳👀

Fell asleep and woke up during the wrenches had to go back track 😂

Honestly coil overs were the only suspension modification done on this car!! However, coil overs are going to have the biggest impact out of any suspension mods you can do. All the performance mods on this car are: larger/wider wheels, performance tires, coil overs and a relatively new magnaflow header/cat converter. I would say anything you add will probably help! This car is pretty great for autocross. I’m not sure how a TC would hold up to a full track day on a regular track since they don’t handle high temps very well… but for auto cross it is definitely an awesome car!

Awesome! Yes I just upgraded to some BC Coilovers on mine, also have some chassis supporting Mods so I think that will pair nicely in addition to a full slotted brake kit with SS lines and F/R bigger Swaybars 👊

Yes!! I love the stuff.

@ImperiumRacing I did a custom turbocharger setup and engine rebuild a couple of years ago and re-did some parts of the harness and wrapped everything with Tesa Tape... very durable...

@@boosted2.4_sky ooo very nice! What vehicle/engine was the job on? I did some similar work on my parents duramax to add all the Banks equipment. I had a lot of harness re routing to do and adding banks harnesses and I used this tape for all of it. Super durable and I love that it comes out looking so clean and looking factory.

@ImperiumRacing is a Saturn Sky (Black) ..I started with a girdled LEA 2.4 ltr Ecotec block from ZZP (ZZPerformance) forged Wiseco pistons, K1 H-beam rods, I TIG welded an intake manifold, (and downpipe) Injector Dynamics 1600cc's, Walbro 450 fuel pump, and a Borg Warner S257 turbocharger.. I started with ~140 rwhp to ~520rwhp..fun car...🏁

I did both! Thank you🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 Are you a Hyundai tech?

A good reminder of how electricity works… 🤣🤣 Smart car came in with the following customer concern: all warning lights come on while driving. I inspected the battery first and found the positive cable loose and the battery looked brand new. My dumba** was like “well there we go, let me tighten this positive back down really quick” …. Got a couple turns in before I bumped the body which promptly welded my wrench to the floor and lit it on fire. I pulled a bit harder to rip the wrench off the body and battery, threw it on the floor outside the car, blew out the small flame on the battery terminal then stomped out my wrench. Moral of the story… always do the negative cable first and don’t be in a hurry 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Thank you! it’s a solid style of wrench to have, but definitely don’t buy the cheap Amazon ones 😬🫣🤣.

Yes! I am 100% subscribed to that guy! Haha i started seeing his KZfaq shorts and then ended up watching so many of his full videos. Then I thought to myself “I have a lot of tools…”. Most of the videos he does are much crazier boxes and setups though. Pretty awesome channel

I've been slowly watching all of his videos from 1st to last lol

@@beereadyyy9849 nice! Ya I honestly didn’t think they would be so interesting, but they are. I only wish I could’ve watched them all before buying a bunch of tools. But still entertaining and good info.

That guy is a genius!! He'll be a major player on youtube soon, and I guarantee he'll be traveling the country to do toolbox tours when he blows up.

@@victorhoyt4352 completely agree.

This is the kinda knowledge we want in the comments!!! Pinned! Thank you! I think it's so interesting how recently everyone is sharing the info on who actually makes all these tools and sharing the deals. I've seen a ton of videos on it in the past 6 months, but It seems to have been getting popular over the last few years. I have a feeling the expensive name brand tool trucks are becoming a thing of the past. I'm also now remembering that my old team leader had the jump box I pictured in this video and his was old & beat up like 4 years ago... he already knew the secrets!!! haha

Awesome!! I'm glad it's working out for you! I just googled Clore... it's much more affordable.. dang it!lol If I may, what makes and models do you usually use it on? I probably could have shed some more light on the subject in the video, but my reasoning is because the maintainer is almost useless in my shop. Literally no bias here, I'm glad it works for you but here are my reasons: This maintainer fails to keep battery voltage above 12v throughout the entire vehicle while performing software updates (in either maintainer mode or the highest charging mode). When a Mercedes falls below 12.5v you can't start the update, if B+ falls below 12.0v or sometimes 12.5v depending on model the update will stop. If an update stops or fails it can sometimes mess up a lot of stuff, like break an entire head unit. Some updates such as ME (ECM), TCM, PTCU, FSCU and others cannot be performed with the engine running so that it also not an option. So unfortunately this charger/maintainer does not cut it for Benz, also most of our batteries are not easily accessible so going straight to the battery is not an option and most likely still would not work. Reason #2 is you have to use the factory scan tool for almost everything and it's on a roll cart so might as well have a battery maintainer on the cart too. My current dealer has them on every cart so if you need it, it's with the scanner. In my person experience at home charging my person car batteries after they have been sitting, this works fine. But it is Also not a good enough charger to bring back a dying battery It's won't read a battery below like 4 or 5 volts. So I only provided this insight because I believe if someone wants a maintainer then they should buy a badass one, if they want a charger they should buy a badass one, this tool seems to be mediocre at both things :/.

​@@ImperiumRacingsounds like it doesnt perform to its rating ? could return surely

Ya it really doesn't. Unfortunately return wouldn't be possible, I bought in 2018 from a Mac guy in the bay area. Even worse my current dealer doesn't have a Mac guy right now...😭@@cpzmelbs So I am either stuck with it or sell it online maybe. As of now I just have it at home to charge my Integra battery every once in awhile since I have the battery out of the car right now. But hopefully my story will help others buy a better tool for their own needs.

My torque wrenches (shown in the part 2 video) are both snap on digital tech angle. I have the 3/8” drive and standard length 1/2” drive. They are fantastic! And I have very easily been able to work around not having a 1/4” drive torque wrench. In my opinion working at a regular shop or dealer you don’t need it.

@@ImperiumRacing thanks for the reply! I was asking about the Mac combination wrenches! Are they precision torque, knuckle savers, RBRT?

@@Chilly-uq2zl Ahh my mistake! I am probably the worst when it comes to specific manufacturer names for things and I saw the "torque" and went in on it.lol So I just did a bunch of digging on the Mac website and it looks like mine are just the plain old Metric Combination 12pt wrenches. I still don't see any "torque" names in the wrench section. I determined this by the pictures on the Mac website: the knuckle savers are round along the handle but mine share the same handle as the RBRT, and the RBRT looks to only come with a 6 point boxed wrench side (likely due to the grip technology). The RBRT also looks like the grip tech is a little different on the open end, but it has the same offset and angle on both ends and same handle. The handle, open end offset and closed end angle are both super useful btw!! While the RBRT may grip better(according to Mac) I would just recommend the wrenches I have because the open end grips plenty well enough and if you are using the box end you likely want a 12 pt to get into that tight area anyways.

​@@ImperiumRacing@27:48 🤣

@@ihavethedocuments2580 I’m glad someone appreciates my art 🙏🏻🙏🏻🤣

Thanks for the comments! any suggestions for better thumbnails? I do admit I made both tool box tour video thumbnails last weekend and I liked the part 2 thumbnail better lol. I probably should have taken some photos of my full box with some tool cases out to use for the thumbs...

Hard Dog double diagonal, the door bars are also made by hard dog

Ooooo interesting!!! My current Integra has a crunchy/ hard to engage third gear. It might be the perfect test subject for that fluid!! Thank you for the info!

@@ImperiumRacing Let me know what you think. When I first did the oil change 2 weeks ago, there was an immediate overall "better feeling" in how it shifted, and that could even be felt in the gear shift lever. But there was "almost" was no improvement in 3rd gear. I took the car on a road trip, 3-1/2-4hrs each way, all in the same day, 2 days later. When I got back, there was absolutely an improvement in 3rd gear. It's definitely not fixed, but it is sooo much better.

I like this idea!! Every time I deal with this goo, it’s been just long enough for me to forget how MESSY it is 😂

I had a huge mess the first time I ripped off the polyethene to replace my side mirror. It gets everywhere and is extremely hard to clean. Then I saw someone on KZfaq use a razor to ‘cut’ through it. I tried it while replacing the glass on a new door and I have never looked back.

Fortunately, I am not a parts store. You should be able to google that or check with your local parts store to ensure you get the right gasket for your particular make/model/year. If you are ordering new headers, check if the part comes with new gaskets. The website/company you're ordering exhaust parts from will likely have the gaskets available or included= so check with them first.

Thanks for the comment! I admit I am a little confused... you're suggesting the cotter pin should be a small bolt instead of a pin? To elaborate on the pin design a little bit, it is been used on hundreds of millions of vehicles across many manufactures all over the globe. The design is quite good, if installed properly the nut won't ever loosen. Especially because that nut doesn't have much if any rotating force. The pin is just a small bit of extra security since the nut again doesn't have a lot of rotational force, it would actually be hard to get past the pin because the threads would be taking all of the force. Also with the vehicle sitting on the ground there is almost no weight on that nut. The other important point is if that nut does loosen, you will hear and feel the looseness long before that nut breaks. A bolt would be more rigid and more likely to snap as opposed to the pin that would bend and get stuck in the threads long before breaking. If you wanted to install a bold large enough that it wouldn't snap, the hole needed would be too large and compromise the stud integrity. So it's a pretty decent design created by men much much smarter than me and used in mass production for decades with limited failures. And in my personal/professional experience, I've never seen one of these nuts loosen.

I do, I will hopefully be listing the rear seats in a few months if you still need them. I'm thinking about getting rid of some other interior parts I have as well. But the Integra is finally back in the garage and will be worked on very soon.

I would say it’s pretty official! I don’t believe any major manufacturer uses this as their designated battery tester, but I believe it is accurate enough to serve that function. I’m sure an independent shop could use this in an official capacity for accurate results. This tool does have a print function I haven’t tried, so that’s pretty official. I have continued to use this tester since I made this video and it still serves me well every time. With my current level of automotive experience I mainly use the tester to confirm my suspicions of a battery or charging system and every time the results line up with what the other data hints at. So yes I think it’s a pretty solid battery tester!

​@@ImperiumRacingI started using it way more now. Yeah I kinda like it now. Thought it was a toy at first

Awesome!! No problem, glad to help 🙏🏻

🙏🏻🙏🏻 some more DIY videos coming in the 3rd gen soon🙏🏻. Ooo a manual, nice!!! Ya man they’re such great vehicles. Dude nice!! I really like the way AE86 looks. Thanks man!! I should be hopping back on the video uploading train soon😎😎

👀👀😬😬

You’re welcome!!! We love it when our videos can help people out🙏🏻

Are you referring to the piece on the rear side door that doesn’t move?

How high of an RPM are we talking? Syncros can cause a similar issue, buuut usually it won't be all gears. Syncros will usually fail on the gears that get smashed the most (like 3rd because everyone thinks they're a street racer and slams that son of gun after a 2nd gear pull haha). If it's all gears I would look into the clutch system OR trans fluid. For trans fluid verify you have the correct fluid type, correct fluid level and clean fluid in the trans. While fluid is possible your problem sounds more mechanical. For clutch, maybe it's worn/cheap/incorrect part and at high RPM it isn't doing it's job completely at a higher RPM. Another possibility is if you are at high RPM, are you doing a pull? Sometimes on an older car worn engine mounts or shifter bushings can cause misalignments or cause things to not engage as they should. Example would be if you sit at a stop in neutral and blip the throttle does your shifter or engine move a bunch? Also is your clutch full and bled correctly. Sorry my sleepy brain is rambling, In summary I would check in this order: 1) Clutch fluid level/leaks, 2) clutch engagement (theres a way to measure this if you're fancy), 3) engine mounts/shifter bushings, 4) trans fluid level/condition/type, 5) clutch mechanical parts.

@@ImperiumRacing high rpm about 8000 to 8500.happened while im doing a pull from 1st gear,and sometime if i starting from 2nd gear also same problem happens.Actually.i changed to 6 puck Competition Clutch recently,after that the problem appeared,before that I using stock Type R clutch,no problem happened even if i didnt release a throttle while changing gear.lmao.all bushing of linkage are fine.But let say the clutch is the problem,what should I do?its still a new clutch btw.

@@ImperiumRacing and i have syncro's problem on 4th gear before i changed to new clutch

@@08adrift damn sounds like that clutch is no good. Was that clutch specifically for your engine and trans? Is it rated to 8500 RPM? A lot of Honda stuff is interchangeable and a looooot of companies make cheap crappy parts for Hondas. It’s possible the clutch isn’t rated for that. You can check the clutch specs or even reach out to the company that makes it and ask them about the issue. Either way it sounds like you need a different clutch. I’ve seen people spend lots of money on clutches and have them suck or make the car impossible to drive. My advice is find as many reviews as you can before you buy a clutch. Even then everyone drives a little different so clutch is one of those things might be hard to find the right one. Honestly unless you have a tune and like 300+ HP… OEM or OEM style clutch might be the best option. I’ve done a decent amount of racing on some standard basic Integra clutches haha

Sure! You want the straight one or bent one?🤣 jkjk I’ll have to look and see what they’re selling for. But I can list it on eBay and give you the link if you’re serious about buying it? I want to keep it because I’m an Integra hoarder…buuuut I really don’t need it hahah

@@ImperiumRacing yeah man I watched your vid and discovered I should have a strut brace on my 2000 gsr lol. Didn’t even know before. Lmk

@@ninobobino4543 Oh dang!! haha yup the GSR and Type R had them from factory. I just moved so I will try to get mine listed soon, I will let you know when I do.

you're other messages disappeared on me... If you're still wondering on that bolt shoot me a video and I'll see if I can tell you which one it is.

@@ImperiumRacing honestly bro, I’m balls deep now and just deleted out of embarrassment lmao. Jb weld has been applied. Slight drip barely losing fluid. It’s definerly not the drain or fill port 🤷‍♂️😅

Very True BUT that's usually how a few decades of technological advancement works out.