That will help keep the motivation up! It’s awesome to hear an engine start after that long of time. Good work keep it up! I’m routing for you.

Yay ...you got it started! 🎉

I have a 2013 2.0l S Jetta n my car just won’t turn on. The belt on the alternator turns but not the belt on the camshaft. Sometimes it turns though. I replaced cam sensor like you did n nothing. Will it be the crankshaft sensor. I got p0016 code then p0343 code once I replaced the cam sensor

Very nice. Thank you.

I have a 2013 1.6t Jetta and it turns on then turns off and stalls out. Could it be a cam sensor?

Ted, what is the right starter rpm? my 12V starter hits the flywheel way too hard, even though it got 12V field coils. Maybe I got 6V coils by mistake. I have not yet measured rpm (can be done with a free "app" called RPM meter), but I can compare if I knew the right rpm. Opinions on the web vary, strangely. One can reason that if the motor wants 200 rpm to start, and if there 15 times as many teeth on the flywheel as on the starter, then the starter should be at 3000 rpm. But I could not find measurements on the net.

I'm waiting on an old horn I found on eBay, this will help me get her honking again! Thank you!

Ted, send your address to my email, and i'll send you an idea, i have used, to keep rust out of your radiator. 😀

about 11:50 point in video

some after market plates, when moving side to side, there's too much play. i ran in to that ,from a video by "onewhocollects"

The hole in the topplate should messure 0.71 inch(18mm) and should fit with hardly any play whatsoever round the centre part of the distributor

Hi Ted. One recommendation I would make is to replace the old original metal fan with an Aluminium one , those metal ones are a real risk of failing. Good information on making sure all contact areas are clean for earthing the top and bottom plates. Greetings from Australia 🦘🦘

Ted; Thanks for the video. yes that stubborn distributor cam surprised me; try using Kroil, if you run into rusted or stubborn parts, imo, it out performs PB blaster. 😃

Does this include diesel engines

Since you have to open the hood to turn the switch on or off, I have a far simpler solution. Just remove the fuse when you park your car and the only part of the engine with power is the starter. No lights, no horn, and no ignition. And instead of a fuse, I use a 20a circuit breaker, which automatically resets if it "blows" and it's square shape makes it easier to install or remove from the fuse block.

What is fourth gill in 2013 Volkswagen Jetta S 2.0 engine

What is RTV?

@Teds_Garage what codes/ problems where you have that you decide to replace this

Hi Ted. Well the parts finally came. The new brass carburetor drain plug has stopped the leak. I do get an occasional drop of gas but I think the threads on the carb itself must have a slight leak. In trying to stop that the last time, I may have tweaked the old brass plug a tad too much to make it leak more. Gasket has always been in place. The stop light is working fine now. That old switch was bad. I don't think it was ever good to begin with. The push rod on the switch never contacted the brake pedal link when I first replaced it like it should have. I think it must have been slowly draining my battery. I was always charging it in the past thinking I wasn't running the car enough when the brake light was slowly draining it. I get frustrated with all the junk or low quality parts over the years not knowing they are causing the problems and not me. This new switch makes contact with that brake pedal rod so the switch is off until I press the brake. I'm now messing around with the choke rod. I got a new grommet for the choke rod and of course, the hole is too small and now the choke rod doesn't spring back as it should. I think I may have to try and get a grommet off of Amazon. In playing around with the wiring harness while trying to figure the brake light I somehow didn't get the cap on right. My horn stopped working on my test drive, haha. I did get it on right and it works fine now. Lastly, while trying to start the car again, the starter rod pushed in and the starter wouldn't shut off. This is the third time this has happened since owning the car for over 30 years. Luckily I put a shut off switch a while back and was able to cut the power. I found a nice video from a George Sage on KZfaq about rebuilding a starter switch so that it has the correct parts. I had know idea that the parts suppliers can only get junk starter switches. Finally it will be fixed for good. I'll let you know how that goes. Thanks so much for your help on the light switch and identifying the problem. I will keep you posted. Rusty

Go for getting the engine running you seem to have a good plan. Once you get it running it Will regenerate you. Step by step one thing at a time and you will get there. I am looking forward to your videos and progress!

Ted, when I was cleaning up some zenith carbs a few months ago. I used a reverse drill that I used when I worked on motorcycles some years ago. They are a special drill that does what its name implies. It works on the smaller jets and works very well. It grabs them and basically reverses the tread out. it is used more like a easy out. i use very pressure so I don't break the bit, it is only to grab the leftover piece and back it out of the hole. I will send you the size when I go to my shop in a little bit.

Would have been helpful if you showed how to remove the covers. Also you didn't mention clockwise vs. counterclockwise shocks and the need to match the covers with the correct direction of the shocks.

Good video but stop the music

What side does the cam bolt rotate? Is it the same lefty loosy righty tighty?

Hi Ted. A couple of updates. As far as the brake light, I have a 30 coupe which requires the switch that when the brake pedal rod is depressed, it pushes that switch in. There is about an 1/8 inch gap in between that rod and the switch rod when the car is not running and the brake pedal is NOT depressed. When I turn the ignition on and the car is just sitting there and the brake pedal is NOT depressed, the brake light remains lit. I don't know much about electricity, but I would think the pedal would have to be depressed to complete a circuit to turn that light on? I've replaced this switch once before in the last 30 years but can't remember the circumstances. Sometimes I just switched out parts over the years because I didn't have the time to learn this stuff, but now that I'm older, I'm trying to understand how it all works. The battery has not been draining at all. I just took the bulb out until I could figure it out. New parts are on the way. I also ordered the LED light. Secondly, the carburetor started leaking at the drain plug. UUrrgggg. It had a brass plug this Zenith. I paid careful attention on the rebuild and just basically hand tightened the brass jets etc on the rebuild per your instructions. I had a very slight drip from the drain plug so thought I'd tighten it more and it got worse. New plug on the way. Wonder if there is a gas sealer I could also use. I'm hoping the threads on the Zenith carb weren't messed up but I didn't go crazy on the tightening. We'll see. I also have noticed that there is carbon splash on the concrete on start up, I'm wondering if the carb is too rich and hope that it's not more serious seeing I recently put a new head gasket on when I broke a head stud a couple of years back. I did have a couple of Model A guys helping with that so think it was done correctly. No longer in a club because of my schedule. Thank you for your input. I hope it's ok to keep asking questions, I'm sure you're quite busy. Rusty

Would a bad camshaft position sensor cause poor fuel economy? My car is giving 6-7km per liter and OBD2 scanner showing P0343 code.

I had the same issue with ft mount bracket. It a poor not exact copy, end up using a good old unit.

Hi Ted. Success! It started right up with the choke rod turned a quarter turn. Probably the easiest start I've had in 30 years. The carb was actually in good shape to start with. I bought new gaskets, a new strainer and plug and the little carb tool. I tore it apart, ran a thin wire through all the jets and passages. I think the main thing was that the fuel line was pushed into the strainer where it tore it up and blocked the gas flow or a clogged jet. I replaced the gaskets except for the cap jet which had 3 under it. I figured whoever rebuilt it the last time knew what they were doing so left it be. I do know that the cap jet and main jet need to both be at a certain level in the slimmest part of the Venturi, but don't know how to measure that. Are they set at a particular measured height or just set to be at a point above or below the gas level? I assume the same height. I did take the retainer ring off the choke needle and it seems to seat better. There is a definite difference in the the strainer plug size between cadmium and the brass plug. Mine needed the brass one. My car is a 30 coupe but don't know which Zenith I have. My last go around, I replaced the ceramic filter in the fuel bowl mounted on the firewall. It was like a pumice type stone so put in a corrugated filter and spring replacement. Not sure exactly how the gas runs through the bulb. I didn't put the round brass mesh filter in with the paper filter last time but pushed one up into the top of the bulb cap and then put the paper and spring back in. Not sure how it's supposed to work, but thought this would be safer if fuel flows well. The gas line hooked up just fine with no leaks. I usually have to fiddle with it a lot. I guess me getting older and not being in a hurry helped, haha. So thank you for your help and great carburetor videos. They took the intimidation out of tearing a carburetor apart. I would never be able to drill out holes etc but can tear one apart now. Now on to the brake light always on. Any ideas? I pulled the rear end out to put in a synced transmission. I think it's a newer brake light switch. I've tried moving the wires from one screw to the other. Does the contact plunger have to touch or not touch while at rest? Anything would help, and I hope you're ok with answering questions. Thanks again, Rusty

You didn't explain how you were able to rotate the the timing belt and which way to rotate it to get the mark

Hi Ted. I enjoyed your carburetor videos on the model A very much. Probably some of the best model A videos around. Very thorough. I have a 30 coupe that I've had for about 30 years now. Don't get to drive it much lately. I do have a question though that maybe you can answer. I need to start by saying I'm not a mechanic, but have been able to pull things off and replace reasonably well and have always managed to get it running in the past. The last 3 or 4 years have been having different issues pop up. I sent my old carb out to be rebuilt. My fuel sediment bowl messed up and my carburetor ended up getting all clogged up. It seemed to be running fairly well and started up fairly easily for about a year. Recently I can't get it to start. It'll run for a few seconds then stops. Almost seems it wasn't getting fuel. I've been afraid to mess with a carburetor but I did find that the last guy that helped me with the car pushed the gas line too far in past the brass ferrel and this was pushing most of the way through the strainer assembly. Me not knowing this when I tried to unscrew the strainer assembly totally obliterated it. I ordered a new cadmium one for the 30 carburetor and it is too small. Do you know if the 28-29 brass one is bigger? I also decided to try and go through the carburetor after watching other carburetor videos to run a thin wire through the jets and holes to make sure they weren't blocked. I also have the Les Andrews repair book that has helped me in the past with other issues. One thing I'm not sure about is with the fuel adjusting needle housing. In the Les Andrews book it says on page 1-62 under a Note heading to remove the ring clip on the tip. Mine which was recently rebuilt still had the clip on the end so not sure if that was seating as it should. One of the major parts suppliers did it during the Covid shut down so figured they knew what they were doing. ( Can't find the receipt for it now) and it was running ok for a while. I couldn't see mention of it on your video. I've seen the clip on in one other video so not sure if it really matters. My Zenith does have the screw in seat at the bottom. I hope you have knowledge of this. Thanks for any help. Rusty

How Can I remove the screm without air gun ?

Good video Ted 👍

Is there a way to test it before replacing?

Ted you should have done some footage of the swap meet. I have not been in years, but that would have been more content to watch. I can't believe it is the same time as Charlotte Swap meet. There is another small meet with the Blairsville Cruisers tomorrow from 3 to 6 and who know what will be there. I am taking some things to find out... its free. Hope to see you again when you are up here...

Thank u pal..😊

Awesome trick to find tdc

Is the mark on the bolt important or not as much as the marks on the gear/belt????

I like the new yellow. I've just subscribed and hit the notification. I'm interested in following your progress on the sport coupe. I do have a question though. I recently found a picture of my dad's first car. A Model A Sport Coupe. He bought it on time when he was in high school. Graduated in 1939 and was paying $1 a week. Notes on the back of the picture give this info. The car seems to have wide five wheels like the 36 and newer cars. Clearly the drum had to be changed for them to fit but I'm curious to know if anything else would have had to be replaced for the drum and wheel to fit. I have done some Google searches but haven't found a good answer. Thanks.

Good video Ted! Im nominating Bernie for Best Supporting Actor!! 👌

Good video Ted 👍 Always nice to have a HELPER as well 😂 Will you be able to make our next meeting?

Thats a great color looks good with the blue ! Mine is a 1930 Tudor addalucite blue with gray rims and I like the way they look also

Great video keep them coming! do you think Henry thought they would be around almost 100 years later?

That's the exact color I used on my 28TUDOR. My wheels are supposed to be black,however she'll never be a points car, so I've changed to Warm yellow. Now, if all the snow and salt would be gone, I could get out and drive her . Thank you.

Where’s the timing mark on the crankshaft

Hi Ted. Thanks for the video. still the best trucks and cars , ever made, right ?😄

My car won’t start, and it’s giving me code p0016, I already changed the crank position sensor but still won’t start, do you think this might be the case?

My car won’t start, and it’s giving me code p0016, I already changed the crank position sensor but still won’t start, do you think this might be the case?

Really wanted to make it to the seminar but unfortunately life got in the way. Thanks for making this video buddy!!

Good video Ted 👍