That will help keep the motivation up! It’s awesome to hear an engine start after that long of time. Good work keep it up! I’m routing for you.
@Teds_Garage5 күн бұрын
Thank you! I have a long way to go yet…. But it does sound nice..👍 🙂
@lindavaughn96026 күн бұрын
Yay ...you got it started! 🎉
@Teds_Garage5 күн бұрын
Yes! Finally…. Now just the rest to repair and put back together…👍🙂🤔😔
@adrianromero64547 күн бұрын
I have a 2013 2.0l S Jetta n my car just won’t turn on. The belt on the alternator turns but not the belt on the camshaft. Sometimes it turns though. I replaced cam sensor like you did n nothing. Will it be the crankshaft sensor. I got p0016 code then p0343 code once I replaced the cam sensor
@Teds_Garage5 күн бұрын
If you are cranking the engine with the starter and the camshaft belt is not moving… sounds like you stripped the camshaft belt… that belt has to turn continuously when the engine is turning. It has ridges on the bottom and they could have been stripped off… sounds like you may need to replace the camshaft belt…
@TitanBodybuilding8 күн бұрын
Very nice. Thank you.
@Teds_Garage5 күн бұрын
Most welcome
@Flacidross9 күн бұрын
I have a 2013 1.6t Jetta and it turns on then turns off and stalls out. Could it be a cam sensor?
@Teds_Garage5 күн бұрын
It could be…but also many other things… you need to do more troubleshooting… bad gas, water in gas, plug gas filter, etc…
@biondanishgenomeinstitute819321 күн бұрын
Ted, what is the right starter rpm? my 12V starter hits the flywheel way too hard, even though it got 12V field coils. Maybe I got 6V coils by mistake. I have not yet measured rpm (can be done with a free "app" called RPM meter), but I can compare if I knew the right rpm. Opinions on the web vary, strangely. One can reason that if the motor wants 200 rpm to start, and if there 15 times as many teeth on the flywheel as on the starter, then the starter should be at 3000 rpm. But I could not find measurements on the net.
@Teds_Garage5 күн бұрын
In my newest videos I have the starter installed… you can see and hear the starter… and I actually have a 8 volt battery… The 6 volt batteries turn pretty slow… but remember the Ford Model T was mostly hand crank (electric starter was optional after about 1919\20..). I’ve heard 6v starters using 12v…. and even jump started Model A’s using 12v…. It’ll hit the flywheel hard and spin fast… but I don’t think I would want to keep doing that… eventually the starter will burn out or destroy the ring gear on the flywheel… Sounds like you’re running a 6v starter on 12v…. from your description and how hard the bendix is engaging… It could be your bendix is very loose/worn if the starter is not turning the engine fast. Once engaged in the ring gear how fast does the starter turn the engine? The bendix slides on a shaft… so it could just be a worn bendix… Interesting… let me know what you find…
@biondanishgenomeinstitute81935 күн бұрын
@@Teds_Garage Thanks for the reply. Since my message I replaced the enclosed bendix drive I had (the new type with no visible spring) with a new old-style bendix. Now it sounds less harsh, but runs too fast still. I did not measure rpm, but comparing by ear a 6V car with mine, I would say mine spins 50-100% faster despite the 12V stator coils. So the problem is half fixed. A electronics savvy friend thinks just a few windings of thick wire put in series in front of the starter will dampen speed. We will try something. Also met a guy with a Snyder catalog with a big resistor for the starter in it, but Snyder does not have it today.
@paulreft713322 күн бұрын
I'm waiting on an old horn I found on eBay, this will help me get her honking again! Thank you!
@Teds_Garage5 күн бұрын
Glad I could help! Be sure it is 6volt or 12v… depending on what you’re using in your Model A… Also there are several different original manufacturers, mine is a Sparton brand - being a common model… but there are others..as well as aftermarket brands. I just visited my dad and his horn wasn’t working so I removed it…. It wasn’t a Sparton and the wires were soldered in…. So I had to resolder them….. and the cover was very difficult to get back on… I didn’t see any model name on his horn…. It was working fine but then stopped… and he was in a parade last year and people wanted to hear the Aoogha… but it wouldn’t ☹️ But I got it working for the parade he was in the next day…👍😁 Good luck… let me know how it goes…
@paulreft71335 күн бұрын
@@Teds_Garage Thank you! It's an EA Laboratories Mileaway model...I got it working, cleaned, oiled, new gaskets, repainted and installed on my 49 Chevy 6 volt truck...you were a GREAT help! Appreciate it! Love this old 100? year old horn! It's LOUD and sounds GREAT!
@sunnyormsby840227 күн бұрын
Ted, send your address to my email, and i'll send you an idea, i have used, to keep rust out of your radiator. 😀
some after market plates, when moving side to side, there's too much play. i ran in to that ,from a video by "onewhocollects"
@Teds_Garage27 күн бұрын
Hey Sunny, I’m not sure what to do… it’ll probably still work but will have to remember that…
@fredheiligАй бұрын
The hole in the topplate should messure 0.71 inch(18mm) and should fit with hardly any play whatsoever round the centre part of the distributor
@Teds_Garage27 күн бұрын
I’ll have to check and measure it…thanks Fred
@russellboyle1368Ай бұрын
Hi Ted. One recommendation I would make is to replace the old original metal fan with an Aluminium one , those metal ones are a real risk of failing. Good information on making sure all contact areas are clean for earthing the top and bottom plates. Greetings from Australia 🦘🦘
@Teds_GarageАй бұрын
Hey Russell, I've heard of the original water pump fan were two pieces of metal laminated together... and after years of stress they have been known to come apart... I haven't had that happen or seen it personally.. and really don't want to. I've seen pics of it ripping into the hood (or do you say "bonnet" in Australia??) as it flew apart. When sanding this fan I could see some of the laminating of the two metals... I need to keep an eye on it. I also have suspicions that folks pumping up the HP and high revving their engine - trying to do highway speeds... 60-70MPH aren't helping the old original metal fans, ie more stress on the metal. The aluminum fans have been on back order for a while... but I need to check on it again. Good idea!
@russellboyle1368Ай бұрын
Hi Ted If it is showing any signs of delaminating around the hub of the fan ,look at changing it for a four blade type fan which I think are available from some vendors. Yes I know the aluminium fans are on back order and have been for some time now. That distributor has been apart previously as Henry didn’t use tape on the ground wire and I believe never used a one piece shaft, the two piece shaft with a drilled upper is the way to go . Regards Russell 🦘🦘
@sunnyormsby8402Ай бұрын
Ted; Thanks for the video. yes that stubborn distributor cam surprised me; try using Kroil, if you run into rusted or stubborn parts, imo, it out performs PB blaster. 😃
@Teds_GarageАй бұрын
Hey Sunny! How’s it going out west? Yeah a friend mentioned Kroil and I haven’t ever tried it… I’ve seen others use it and they really like it.. I’m just old school with the WD-40… I need to get some and try Kroil … and PB blaster..
@andrewnoble8645Ай бұрын
Does this include diesel engines
@Teds_GarageАй бұрын
I don’t know… diesel engines have different computers so not sure…
@ModelARickLasCrucesАй бұрын
Since you have to open the hood to turn the switch on or off, I have a far simpler solution. Just remove the fuse when you park your car and the only part of the engine with power is the starter. No lights, no horn, and no ignition. And instead of a fuse, I use a 20a circuit breaker, which automatically resets if it "blows" and it's square shape makes it easier to install or remove from the fuse block.
@Teds_GarageАй бұрын
Yup. That works too. Although, the master disconnect is good for a stuck on starter. Years ago I had a flat head and the starter switch stuck on…. I had to quickly remove the battery cable clamp and burned my thumb and finger fairly badly prying it loose. Both ways work well…. just differently. 👍🏻
@Teds_GarageАй бұрын
ModelARickLasCruces I did like your idea of the 20A circuit breaker, so I added your comment to the "Details" area on the video. I may point it out in a future video too...
@Carolyn-y1dАй бұрын
What is fourth gill in 2013 Volkswagen Jetta S 2.0 engine
@Teds_GarageАй бұрын
@Carolyn-y1d I think you may be referring to "4th gear".. ie. the manual transmission gear # 4.
@AkubraHatmanАй бұрын
What is RTV?
@Teds_GarageАй бұрын
RTV = silicone (Room-Temperature- Vulcanizing silicone) is a type of silicone rubber that cures at room temperature. Used to seal gaps... in place or in combination of using a gasket.
@Dana-ro5gjАй бұрын
@Teds_Garage what codes/ problems where you have that you decide to replace this
@Teds_GarageАй бұрын
@Dana-ro5gj .. After getting the ODB II code P0340 .. which P0340 is an OBD-II diagnostic trouble code (DTC) that indicates that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected a problem within your Jetta’s CPS circuit .. caused by an issue with the wiring harness going to the camshaft position sensor (CPS) or the camshaft position sensor itself.
@boydchappell1832Ай бұрын
Hi Ted. Well the parts finally came. The new brass carburetor drain plug has stopped the leak. I do get an occasional drop of gas but I think the threads on the carb itself must have a slight leak. In trying to stop that the last time, I may have tweaked the old brass plug a tad too much to make it leak more. Gasket has always been in place. The stop light is working fine now. That old switch was bad. I don't think it was ever good to begin with. The push rod on the switch never contacted the brake pedal link when I first replaced it like it should have. I think it must have been slowly draining my battery. I was always charging it in the past thinking I wasn't running the car enough when the brake light was slowly draining it. I get frustrated with all the junk or low quality parts over the years not knowing they are causing the problems and not me. This new switch makes contact with that brake pedal rod so the switch is off until I press the brake. I'm now messing around with the choke rod. I got a new grommet for the choke rod and of course, the hole is too small and now the choke rod doesn't spring back as it should. I think I may have to try and get a grommet off of Amazon. In playing around with the wiring harness while trying to figure the brake light I somehow didn't get the cap on right. My horn stopped working on my test drive, haha. I did get it on right and it works fine now. Lastly, while trying to start the car again, the starter rod pushed in and the starter wouldn't shut off. This is the third time this has happened since owning the car for over 30 years. Luckily I put a shut off switch a while back and was able to cut the power. I found a nice video from a George Sage on KZfaq about rebuilding a starter switch so that it has the correct parts. I had know idea that the parts suppliers can only get junk starter switches. Finally it will be fixed for good. I'll let you know how that goes. Thanks so much for your help on the light switch and identifying the problem. I will keep you posted. Rusty
@Teds_GarageАй бұрын
Hey Rusty, That’s great news to get your brake light switch straightened out…👍 I know what you mean about that cap/“light bail” at end of the steering column…. It can be difficult 😣🥵 You might try lubricant on the choke and starter grommets if they are tight…a little white lithium grease or garage door grease… something to let them slide easily… I hope your battery dieing problems are solved… take care, Ted
@lindco82Ай бұрын
Go for getting the engine running you seem to have a good plan. Once you get it running it Will regenerate you. Step by step one thing at a time and you will get there. I am looking forward to your videos and progress!
@Teds_GarageАй бұрын
@@lindco82 thanks… yeah I need to get rolling on it again.. and you’re right - once I hear it running I’ll be ready to get it done… get ‘er dun..
@joegarage6132Ай бұрын
Ted, when I was cleaning up some zenith carbs a few months ago. I used a reverse drill that I used when I worked on motorcycles some years ago. They are a special drill that does what its name implies. It works on the smaller jets and works very well. It grabs them and basically reverses the tread out. it is used more like a easy out. i use very pressure so I don't break the bit, it is only to grab the leftover piece and back it out of the hole. I will send you the size when I go to my shop in a little bit.
@joegarage6132Ай бұрын
Just remembered I also use Kroil Penetrating oil, and I have a few other brands that I use and have found that help with seized jets and bolts. its more money but it works great.
@Teds_GarageАй бұрын
Thanks.. I’ve never used Kroil…I need to try it.
@ModelARickLasCrucesАй бұрын
Would have been helpful if you showed how to remove the covers. Also you didn't mention clockwise vs. counterclockwise shocks and the need to match the covers with the correct direction of the shocks.
@ModelARickLasCrucesАй бұрын
But 10 shocks for $20 is a heck of a deal, if only to get parts to restore othe shocks.
@Teds_GarageАй бұрын
@modelaricklascruces thanks… good to hear from you again…👍😁 I figured that I can put together a few from the parts.. I’m thinking to do a real rebuild video later, so these are just intro to shocks video. I need to get back to work on getting my engine running on the ‘29 Tudor…
@scottfoldenauer363815 күн бұрын
Interesting. I always wanted to know more about these shocks. Thank you!
@stevef.c8759Ай бұрын
Good video but stop the music
@Teds_GarageАй бұрын
You don’t like the selection of music? Or you don’t like any music?
@franka6680Ай бұрын
What side does the cam bolt rotate? Is it the same lefty loosy righty tighty?
@Teds_GarageАй бұрын
Not sure on your first question what you are asking… yes lefty loosely…
@franka6680Ай бұрын
@@Teds_Garage I figured it out. So I did the sensor. Finished the job codes never came back but the car still didn’t start. After a few days my friend got a second opinion and was told her engine was seized which to me makes no sense cz it was running before it went bad
@Teds_GarageАй бұрын
@@franka6680 engine is seized = will not turn over. So if you are getting the starter to turn the engine it is not seized. If the crankshaft is turning then it is not seized…. Now it could still have a more serious problem but not seized.
@boydchappell18322 ай бұрын
Hi Ted. A couple of updates. As far as the brake light, I have a 30 coupe which requires the switch that when the brake pedal rod is depressed, it pushes that switch in. There is about an 1/8 inch gap in between that rod and the switch rod when the car is not running and the brake pedal is NOT depressed. When I turn the ignition on and the car is just sitting there and the brake pedal is NOT depressed, the brake light remains lit. I don't know much about electricity, but I would think the pedal would have to be depressed to complete a circuit to turn that light on? I've replaced this switch once before in the last 30 years but can't remember the circumstances. Sometimes I just switched out parts over the years because I didn't have the time to learn this stuff, but now that I'm older, I'm trying to understand how it all works. The battery has not been draining at all. I just took the bulb out until I could figure it out. New parts are on the way. I also ordered the LED light. Secondly, the carburetor started leaking at the drain plug. UUrrgggg. It had a brass plug this Zenith. I paid careful attention on the rebuild and just basically hand tightened the brass jets etc on the rebuild per your instructions. I had a very slight drip from the drain plug so thought I'd tighten it more and it got worse. New plug on the way. Wonder if there is a gas sealer I could also use. I'm hoping the threads on the Zenith carb weren't messed up but I didn't go crazy on the tightening. We'll see. I also have noticed that there is carbon splash on the concrete on start up, I'm wondering if the carb is too rich and hope that it's not more serious seeing I recently put a new head gasket on when I broke a head stud a couple of years back. I did have a couple of Model A guys helping with that so think it was done correctly. No longer in a club because of my schedule. Thank you for your input. I hope it's ok to keep asking questions, I'm sure you're quite busy. Rusty
@Teds_Garage2 ай бұрын
It does sound like a bad brake switch. If it’s on all the time with the battery connected…. are you sure it’s the brake light and not the parking light. If the “light bale”, ie the jumble of wires at the bottom of the steering column, if those are messed up it could be the “parking light” is on. Also make sure you have the light switch “off”….at your horn button… the light switch can be confusing. Parking light, off, low beam, and high beam….etc. As for the carb plug… you did install the gasket with the plug, right? Your carb kit should have had a washer type gasket for the plug. The carbon from the exhaust does sound like it may be rich. Also if you choke it too long. Once you turn on the gas, let the float bowl fill (just 1 minute), then a few engine turns on choke and release the choke. It should fire up. If the tail pipe is thick black carbon, turn the GAV in. Depending on the carb, engine, elevation above sea level, and temperature…. the GAV will be different. Even driving in traffic and open roads, or hills can make a difference…. So you can’t just say 1 turn out, or 1.5 turns out on the GAV and leave it. “Newer” carbs (and I mean even carbs in the 1950’s) had some engineering for different situations…. Now days the car engines have sensors and computers making fuel adjustments hundreds of times a second.. Needless to say 1 or 1.5 turns of GAV is just a starting point. Don’t be afraid to adjust the GAV and the timing lever,… As for timing, the faster you drive the more advanced the timing. Once it starts you should set to about 1/3 timing lever (3-4 notches), then a notch every 10 mph. I think it has 10 notches so it also depends on your timing setup. The engine will run even when really retarded timing… just no power. Too advanced and it will buck. Good luck. 👍
@pysof2 ай бұрын
Would a bad camshaft position sensor cause poor fuel economy? My car is giving 6-7km per liter and OBD2 scanner showing P0343 code.
@Teds_GarageАй бұрын
It will misfire and have less power… so yes.
@paas6242 ай бұрын
I had the same issue with ft mount bracket. It a poor not exact copy, end up using a good old unit.
@Teds_Garage2 ай бұрын
Seems like we aren’t the first to have this problem…. You would think that they would fix the manufacturing problem. So hard to get good quality replacement parts…
@boydchappell18322 ай бұрын
Hi Ted. Success! It started right up with the choke rod turned a quarter turn. Probably the easiest start I've had in 30 years. The carb was actually in good shape to start with. I bought new gaskets, a new strainer and plug and the little carb tool. I tore it apart, ran a thin wire through all the jets and passages. I think the main thing was that the fuel line was pushed into the strainer where it tore it up and blocked the gas flow or a clogged jet. I replaced the gaskets except for the cap jet which had 3 under it. I figured whoever rebuilt it the last time knew what they were doing so left it be. I do know that the cap jet and main jet need to both be at a certain level in the slimmest part of the Venturi, but don't know how to measure that. Are they set at a particular measured height or just set to be at a point above or below the gas level? I assume the same height. I did take the retainer ring off the choke needle and it seems to seat better. There is a definite difference in the the strainer plug size between cadmium and the brass plug. Mine needed the brass one. My car is a 30 coupe but don't know which Zenith I have. My last go around, I replaced the ceramic filter in the fuel bowl mounted on the firewall. It was like a pumice type stone so put in a corrugated filter and spring replacement. Not sure exactly how the gas runs through the bulb. I didn't put the round brass mesh filter in with the paper filter last time but pushed one up into the top of the bulb cap and then put the paper and spring back in. Not sure how it's supposed to work, but thought this would be safer if fuel flows well. The gas line hooked up just fine with no leaks. I usually have to fiddle with it a lot. I guess me getting older and not being in a hurry helped, haha. So thank you for your help and great carburetor videos. They took the intimidation out of tearing a carburetor apart. I would never be able to drill out holes etc but can tear one apart now. Now on to the brake light always on. Any ideas? I pulled the rear end out to put in a synced transmission. I think it's a newer brake light switch. I've tried moving the wires from one screw to the other. Does the contact plunger have to touch or not touch while at rest? Anything would help, and I hope you're ok with answering questions. Thanks again, Rusty
@Teds_Garage2 ай бұрын
Thanks for the nice words. These videos & editing are a lot of work and it’s really nice to hear from people who watch them. As for the brake lights: 1. First thing, when you disconnect the wire from your brake switch- the brake light goes out? Correct? Just so we aren’t chasing a crossed wires. 2. Do you have the connection rod/wire from your brake pedal adjusted? No slack but not pulling the switch…. Also, There are two different switches for Model A’s. Which switch does your car have? Older switches were made cheap and known for shorting = light on and a dead battery. If you disconnect the connection rod and the brake lights are on then it’s probably a bad switch… if you have a voltmeter you should be able to disconnect the rod and test the switch by pulling by hand… pull = 6v, release = 0v. This type of switch there isn’t really a way to connect backwards. One side to battery and other to the light bulb. Also, if you really want to “fix” the dead battery problem…. Consider connecting the battery lead to the ignition switch. Original wiring was directly tied to the battery, along with the lights and horn…. This allowed Ford to use a smaller ignition switch and no relays (lights and horn pull a lot of amps). But if you’ve installed a new LED bulb for your brake lights it will not pull much amps (and be much brighter)…. then connect the wire from your brake switch to the ignition switch/hot side of the coil (coming from the ignition switch). Good luck…👍🙂 let me know what you find…
@kylearredondo51403 ай бұрын
You didn't explain how you were able to rotate the the timing belt and which way to rotate it to get the mark
@Teds_Garage3 ай бұрын
Slowly turning the ignition to start…ie on and off to get the engine close until you can see the mark. Remove the spark plugs and the engine will turn easier…. Turn the engine at the crankshaft to get the markings aligned. It requires a special tool… that fits your crankshaft. VW has different types over the years and different engines so get the right tools. You need to check your auto parts store for if they have the tool and some places will rent/borrow the tool for the day. I didn’t have the tool….so.. Otherwise…Carefully pulling on your alternator belt and don’t pinch your fingers… with spark plugs out it will turn… You should be removing the camshaft bolt to get to the camshaft position sensor. To hold the camshaft/engine from turning while removing the camshaft bolt: I put the car in gear (manual transmission) and it locks the engine. If you don’t have an impact tool, use a tight fitting wrench and tap the end lightly with a hammer…. Don’t get too aggressive…. they used a “lock-tight” and just a slight tapping will get it to release. If you have an automatic transmission - first try the tapping method above. If still stuck you hold the crankshaft to remove the camshaft gear bolt. This requires a special tool… that fits your crankshaft. VW has different types over the years and different engines so get the right tools. You need to check your auto parts store for if they have the tool and some places will rent/borrow the tool for the day. If not (not recommended) you can use a wrench/wood wedged into the alternator belt to hold the engine…. But be careful not to damage the alternator pulley or belt.
@boydchappell18323 ай бұрын
Hi Ted. I enjoyed your carburetor videos on the model A very much. Probably some of the best model A videos around. Very thorough. I have a 30 coupe that I've had for about 30 years now. Don't get to drive it much lately. I do have a question though that maybe you can answer. I need to start by saying I'm not a mechanic, but have been able to pull things off and replace reasonably well and have always managed to get it running in the past. The last 3 or 4 years have been having different issues pop up. I sent my old carb out to be rebuilt. My fuel sediment bowl messed up and my carburetor ended up getting all clogged up. It seemed to be running fairly well and started up fairly easily for about a year. Recently I can't get it to start. It'll run for a few seconds then stops. Almost seems it wasn't getting fuel. I've been afraid to mess with a carburetor but I did find that the last guy that helped me with the car pushed the gas line too far in past the brass ferrel and this was pushing most of the way through the strainer assembly. Me not knowing this when I tried to unscrew the strainer assembly totally obliterated it. I ordered a new cadmium one for the 30 carburetor and it is too small. Do you know if the 28-29 brass one is bigger? I also decided to try and go through the carburetor after watching other carburetor videos to run a thin wire through the jets and holes to make sure they weren't blocked. I also have the Les Andrews repair book that has helped me in the past with other issues. One thing I'm not sure about is with the fuel adjusting needle housing. In the Les Andrews book it says on page 1-62 under a Note heading to remove the ring clip on the tip. Mine which was recently rebuilt still had the clip on the end so not sure if that was seating as it should. One of the major parts suppliers did it during the Covid shut down so figured they knew what they were doing. ( Can't find the receipt for it now) and it was running ok for a while. I couldn't see mention of it on your video. I've seen the clip on in one other video so not sure if it really matters. My Zenith does have the screw in seat at the bottom. I hope you have knowledge of this. Thanks for any help. Rusty
@Teds_Garage3 ай бұрын
Hey Rusty, It sounds like you may have sediment from your gas tank getting into the carb/jets. It could be very fine rust sediment getting past your fuel sediment bowl. Have you checked/scoped inside your gas tank for rust and sediment? Also the gas tank sealers from the past (10, 20, 30 years ago) can break down with the modern ethanol gas… the alcohol in the fuel can break down the gas tank sealer and then the sticky gas mixture can build up and clog the jets. So when cleaning the jets and passages use carb cleaner to “blast out” the residue, as well as the thin wire. It does seem like you have to clean the jets out on your carburetor… but it could also be the ignition shorting out when it starts…. ie if you advance the spark when it starts…(1) the wire from ignition switch grounds, (2) the wire from bottom plate to top plate ground’s out ….(3) or the top plate looses ground (to the distributor housing), which the points need to be able to ground when they are closed. The top plate “slides” in grooves of the distributor housing…. It must be clean and make contact, ie no paint… one test is don’t move the spark lever and let it run… see if it remains running…. It won’t hurt it to run a few seconds/minutes with spark lever retarded…. Not sure on the carb strainer… if brass one is different size than cadmium. I don’t think the tip retainer is still needed for the gas adj valve…. as Les Andrews and others have said, but for authenticity sake some people still use it. Let me know what you find out…. Take care, ted
@MrOutchini3 ай бұрын
How Can I remove the screm without air gun ?
@Teds_Garage3 ай бұрын
Sorry but I don’t understand what you’re asking…?.
@MrOutchini3 ай бұрын
The screw * of the crankshaft because mine turn when I try😅
@Teds_HomeRenovation3 ай бұрын
The camshaft? or the crankshaft? You should be removing the camshaft bolt to get to the camshaft position sensor. Either way I put the car in gear (manual transmission) and it locks the engine. If you don’t have an impact tool, use a tight fitting wrench and tap the end lightly with a hammer…. Don’t get too aggressive. I think they used a “lock-tight” and just a slight tapping will get it to release. If you have an automatic transmission - first try the tapping method above. If still stuck you hold the crankshaft to remove the camshaft gear bolt. This requires a special tool… that fits your crankshaft. VW has different types over the years and different engines so get the right tools. You need to check your auto parts store for if they have the tool and some places will rent/borrow the tool for the day. If not (not recommended) you can use a wrench/wood wedged into the alternator belt to hold the engine…. But be careful not to damage the alternator pulley or belt.
@michaelrepetto6694 ай бұрын
Good video Ted 👍
@Teds_Garage4 ай бұрын
Thanks 👍
@thepicklefish4 ай бұрын
Is there a way to test it before replacing?
@Teds_Garage4 ай бұрын
Maybe with ohmmeter/multimeter, and a VW garage with their expensive computer… Not sure on the pin out though but if you have a oscilloscope you could see the signal….
@thepicklefish3 ай бұрын
@@Teds_Garage thanks for your input. I got someone to crank it for me while I inspected and the crank was turning but the cam was not. Pulled timing belt and the teeth on the belt had broke off. New belt and water pump and am good to go!
@Teds_Garage3 ай бұрын
Glad to hear you got it fixed and going again..👍
@joegarage61324 ай бұрын
Ted you should have done some footage of the swap meet. I have not been in years, but that would have been more content to watch. I can't believe it is the same time as Charlotte Swap meet. There is another small meet with the Blairsville Cruisers tomorrow from 3 to 6 and who know what will be there. I am taking some things to find out... its free. Hope to see you again when you are up here...
@Teds_Garage4 ай бұрын
Next time maybe 🤔
@johnwon69864 ай бұрын
Thank u pal..😊
@Teds_Garage4 ай бұрын
🙂. Did the video help you repair your vw vehicle? What year & model are you working on?
@Teds_Garage4 ай бұрын
🙂. Did the video help you repair your vw vehicle? What year & model are you working on?
@joshsevere78544 ай бұрын
Awesome trick to find tdc
@Teds_Garage4 ай бұрын
Glad you liked it
@crippledanasian58224 ай бұрын
Is the mark on the bolt important or not as much as the marks on the gear/belt????
@Teds_Garage4 ай бұрын
The gear is the only mark that is important. The belt can be moved around so don’t use marks on the belt for reference. The mark on the cam gear must line up with the alignment mark on the metal back plate. The engine must be at TDC (Top Dead Center) on #1.
@jimhumphrey4 ай бұрын
I like the new yellow. I've just subscribed and hit the notification. I'm interested in following your progress on the sport coupe. I do have a question though. I recently found a picture of my dad's first car. A Model A Sport Coupe. He bought it on time when he was in high school. Graduated in 1939 and was paying $1 a week. Notes on the back of the picture give this info. The car seems to have wide five wheels like the 36 and newer cars. Clearly the drum had to be changed for them to fit but I'm curious to know if anything else would have had to be replaced for the drum and wheel to fit. I have done some Google searches but haven't found a good answer. Thanks.
@Teds_Garage4 ай бұрын
Does it have hydraulic brakes? Or just the hubs and drums? I don’t know if the spindles have to change, if they didn’t change it to hydraulic brakes.
@michaelrepetto6694 ай бұрын
Good video Ted! Im nominating Bernie for Best Supporting Actor!! 👌
@Teds_Garage4 ай бұрын
Yeah I think he enjoys some of video, but it takes a lot of time to setup the shots and he wants to just get the work done..
@michaelrepetto6694 ай бұрын
@@Teds_Garage Haa, I hear that!!
@michaelrepetto6694 ай бұрын
Good video Ted 👍 Always nice to have a HELPER as well 😂 Will you be able to make our next meeting?
@Teds_Garage4 ай бұрын
Don’t know…. This time of year is a great time to get work done outside and a lot of family stuff and reunions, etc.. It’s about a 3 hour drive to get there… although I saw there is a tour of NC coming up… 😎 cool…
@michaelrepetto6694 ай бұрын
@Teds_Garage We're getting couple days of rain each week right now, but weather is good the rest of the week.
@matthewmahalic35624 ай бұрын
Thats a great color looks good with the blue ! Mine is a 1930 Tudor addalucite blue with gray rims and I like the way they look also
@Teds_Garage4 ай бұрын
Thanks Matthew..
@matthewmahalic35624 ай бұрын
Great video keep them coming! do you think Henry thought they would be around almost 100 years later?
@Teds_Garage4 ай бұрын
He just kept the Model T’s and Model A’s rolling off the assembly lines… millions of them… trying to let every worker afford a car. I think he would be astonished and proud that so many are still working… while the others - more expensive of the time (Buicks, Oldsmobile, Cadillac, etc.) went to scrap in the ’40’s (WWII) and ’50’s…. too expensive to repair and lack of used parts.
@deanjernstrom37605 ай бұрын
That's the exact color I used on my 28TUDOR. My wheels are supposed to be black,however she'll never be a points car, so I've changed to Warm yellow. Now, if all the snow and salt would be gone, I could get out and drive her . Thank you.
@Teds_Garage5 ай бұрын
@deanjernstrom3760 … what color is your 28tudor? My 29 Tudor is supposed to be Rose Beige and Seal Brown trim/pin stripes. how long ago did you paint your wheels? How’s the paint holding up? I’ve had pretty good luck with Rustoleum paint with not chipping or fading. Years ago I’ve used some cheap equipment paints that can spray on as red and a few years in the sun and your tractor is more pink..☹️
@Alex-ho1wf5 ай бұрын
Where’s the timing mark on the crankshaft
@Teds_Garage4 ай бұрын
I don’t remember seeing one…. in the video you can see we just found TDC on #1 cyl and the camshaft gear has a mark… the back cover of the camshaft gear has the matching mark.
@sunnyormsby84025 ай бұрын
Hi Ted. Thanks for the video. still the best trucks and cars , ever made, right ?😄
@Teds_Garage5 ай бұрын
Hey Sunny! Yes they are!
@Juan-wr3bk5 ай бұрын
My car won’t start, and it’s giving me code p0016, I already changed the crank position sensor but still won’t start, do you think this might be the case?
@Teds_Garage5 ай бұрын
Did you check your timing belt? A broken belt or if tensioner goes out it can jump and get timing out.
@Juan-wr3bk5 ай бұрын
My car won’t start, and it’s giving me code p0016, I already changed the crank position sensor but still won’t start, do you think this might be the case?
@Teds_Garage5 ай бұрын
If you’re sure the timing belt is good and you have compression. Do you have spark at all your plugs? Coil pack could have died.. and is much more common and easy to replace. If all the above is good then maybe look at camshaft sensor.
@thenewera-real84742 ай бұрын
Were you able to fix P0016 code I have same issue but mine one starts with a little extra cranking and checks engine light pops up on every start, clear the codes while engine running no issue, restart engine again same code. How did you fix it?
@thenewera-real84742 ай бұрын
I even replaced the camshaft position sensor still same issue
@michaelrepetto6695 ай бұрын
Really wanted to make it to the seminar but unfortunately life got in the way. Thanks for making this video buddy!!