Awesome! So glad the video was helpful!!!

Is there still an impulse to the coil? Do you have a way to test it? Does it get "stuck" in the same spot? (Wondering if it's just jammed). Also, sometimes when the battery is changed you press it in too hard and and puts pressure on the hour wheel when the movement and dial are pushed together too tightly This can also happen when you use a replacement battery that is too thick. Some things to try/consider anyway, hope this helps! Cheers, Colin

@@watchoffthecuff thanks, how about automatic watches? do you know anything about them?

Yes, I have a few videos that involve automatics! Mostly vintage though.

@@watchoffthecuff great, I own a vintage Seiko, do you mind if I send some pictures to you? I really don't know how to fix this thing. Hope you can help me with it

It works but just for a short period of time, even if I wind it or wear it

Awesome! Cheers, Colin

Send me a picture to [email protected] ?

The Turbo depending on how you position it in relation to the coil can make the watch go backwards. So don't be too alarmed by that. Do you have a pulse from the circuit?

@@watchoffthecuff i'm a complete beginner and i want to save the watch if i can. Ive put a new battery in and theres no Pulse, also on my quartz tester the hands dont move if i push the Line Free button all the way down, the hands spin only when half pushed and half power applied, maybe a resistor prob, ive no idea? and thankyou for responding

Sorry, I wish I had some solid advice for you! Finding out what the coil resistance is supposed to be to make sure the coil is okay might be the place to start? Usually, from a commercial repair perspective it is cheaper to get a replacement movement when available - so I rarely do a deep dive on quartz movements. Cheers, Colin

Yes! if you are in Canada, I currently do not accept customer shipments from the United States.

Ahh bummer! I am in New Hampshire...

@nikkiharding So sorry, what started to happen is that someone from the US would send in a repair, then a month later I'd get a customs clearance bill for $50 (sometimes more!) just to get it into the country.

​@@watchoffthecuffoh wow! That would be a bummer!

You may be right, both batteries are 7.9mm and I did not pull the spec on this movement and didn't record it so I can't go back and check. It did have a 362 in it at the time. Did you pull the spec on this movement (if you know what it is?). The trouble with a 315 is the depth when the battery is held with a side spring. The 315 is only 1.6mm thick so it would work, but could possibly pull away from the bottom contact making it reliability an issue as the battery could shift during wear and make intermittent contact with the lower contact prong. The 362 is 2.1mm thick and sat flush with the top of the movement itself, if it was incorrect it would have stuck out, raising alarm bells. Also, if it was not the correct thickness, with the error being too thick as you propose then it would have put pressure on the movement and would likely jam the hour wheel against the underside of dial, causing the watch to lose time or not work at all. In the absence of the movement spec sheet I stand behind the 362 for this model... But am willing to be corrected if other data is present! We are all human and make mistakes! Cheers, Colin

👍

My Santos was send to Cartier for a battery replacement a few years back, but this time I decided to replace it myself. The battery was an SR721SW/362.

Thanks for weighing in the debate! Appreciate it! Cheers, Colin

Thanks!!!! 🙏

It was an editing error, however I did a video on just the crown removal for a 7S26 here! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qqyKfqyZvsfdmJ8.htmlsi=9a6ty21YAZNlyfWE

You are welcome!!!! Cheers Colin

You are welcome!!! Cheers, Colin

High praise! Thanks!!!

You should use some Rodico to grab any pieces of debris.... watchoffthecuff.com/products/bergeon-6033-rodico-cleaning-product?_pos=3&_psq=rodic&_ss=e&_v=1.0

Tudor is owned by Rolex, but they are not made in the same factory or share few if any parts. In the past Tudor used Rolex cases and used ETA movements. They now use their own cases and use their own movements. Cheers Colin

Fair point! It is likely that I did lubricate it, just didn't capture it on camera... But to be honest for this video I don't remember.

Thank you!

Thank you! Very, very kind of you! Cheers! Colin

I personally use a 150/400 combination stone and use 800 to do a little touch up at the end. The reason is that 150/400 combination stones are readily available.

@@watchoffthecuff tnx man👍

It can be tough sometimes to find off the shelf parts that are compatible with a lot of movements. The exception being movements that are popular with modders, like Seiko!

My wrist is 7.25, so the 41mm fits nicely in my opinion. But it does wear small as the lugs don't project out that much and are nicely curved.

Start with my crystal replacement video, here is the link! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h-CBmqWS2ciuhqM.html

Thanks!!! You're welcome!!! Cheers, Colin

You are welcome!

Yeah, tough to tell without seeing the watch in person. I wish I had some great and magical advice for you! I'm at a loss as to what to suggest!

You're welcome!

Bingo! You are right, probably not ideal as it could magnetize other parts, but glad it got the job done!

June 30th.

In the meantime I have secured distribution rights for both Bergeron and Horotec, just got back from Switzerland last week to see them in person.

@@watchoffthecuff i just started in the watchmaking hobby and Perrin was always very accommodating to novice like myself. Terrible news.

Yeah, hoping to pickup the torch a bit, getting new stock in all the time from a bunch of original Perrin suppliers... Check out my website! Lol

@@watchoffthecuff thanks, will do

It takes a Renata 362 battery or equivalent. Cheers, Colin

So sorry! Have since changed my camera setup to avoid this! Working on getting better video with each video. Cheers, Colin

Thank you, you are welcome!!! Cheers, Colin

Sorry, I try to make every video better than the last!

The crown and stem need to be released from the movement using a small (and sometimes partially hidden) button or lever. I have a bunch of videos that show how to do this. It is unlikely you be able to pull the crystal out with enough force, same for putting the new crystal in! This is an expensive crystal press that I use in the video, but cheaper ones are available and will work, they just won't hold up with repeated everyday use (which is why I later had to upgrade to a progressional level crystal press).

@@watchoffthecuff thank you for the advice 💪🏻

You should have a few links you can remove! They will be a Cotter pin/friction pin style (I have another video that shows this! Lol Also, feel free to send me a picture to [email protected] and I can confirm and maybe help out further! Cheers, Colin

Great!

You are welcome and thank you!!! Cheers, Colin

It is an isolator, so the battery does not touch unwanted parts of the movement. It definitely needs to remain in place.

Ok. When I removed the old battery the insulator peice came out with it. I put the new one in without the insulator first and the watch would not work so I put the insulator back in place underneath the new battery and it will will not work did I damage the watch by not placing the insulator in the first time? I tried a different battery as well with the insulator underneath and still not working?

The insulator usually has a notch or hole that lets a contact poke through to make contact with the underside (negative) of the battery. it should not damage the circuit as some watches actually require you to short out the positive and negative to reset the chip after a battery change (most chronographs require this operation to be perforned as part of the battery change for example).

Ok. The insulator has a tab. I can't see a notch or hole. So I guess I'll just have to fiddle with it to see where the correct placement should be?

as long as you get the insulator under the metal negative contact it should be fine. Can you see where the negative contact is so you can make sure its making contact to the battery when installed? Also, make sure the crown is pushed in, and you havent pulled it out by mistake when you removed the caseback (this has happened to me where I couldn't figure out why the watch was not running only to discover I'd inadvertently pulled out the crown).

hahaha yup! (great to see you last night, it was awesome to catch up!)

Yes, very similar!

You are welcome!!!

Sorry to hear that! I do have a video about screwdrivers here... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kJqPrcaTrai0ZY0.html

Yes, the crystal does make a water tight seal against the gasket. Guarantee? - nothing is a guarantee! If I was cincerned though I would put it through a water resistance test. I show this procedure at the end of this video here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/apx0aKmarMeumXU.htmlsi=0QGEVJaE1Gp3jSjw

@@watchoffthecuff Thanks, that was my next question. What makes a "good quality" leak tester, as there are many on the market. This helps answer that further. Thanks a BUNCH !!!!!!!!

You are welcome!!!

I sell them here in Canada: watchoffthecuff.com/products/horotec%C2%AE-professional-precision-press-complete (oops wrong item this is the screw-back case opener... will update with correct item! sorry!) EDIT: Here is the crystal press complete with 4 sets of dies: watchoffthecuff.com/products/horotec%C2%AE-precision-press Cheers, Colin

thanks! you are welcome!

I have a video that shows hand removal here... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pbNkh7qrycDXdYk.html Dual removal is easier for this watch. Two dial feet (studs) stick out of the dial and are pressure fit into the movement so you just need to gently separate them. Some movements have small screws in the side that hold onto the dial feet, but I'm pretty sure this one is just pressure fit with no side screws! Cheers, Colin