I'm not sure I understand the question. Maybe this will answer it somewhere. There are two adjustments on the Abba stand. 2:17 The black knob on the left nearly touching the ground and the silver threaded T handle on the top of the left upright (in the picture). Abba sells a Fitting Kit spool (or insert) for each type of motorcycle. You adjust the width of the 2 uprights and lock down the width with the black knob near the ground. I turn it about as hard as I can using my hand. I used a big, black Sharpie to draw a line so that I could see if the adjustment moved. You don't need to re-adjust this from use to use. Maybe once a year. You put the spools in the stand and tighten down the T handle. It tightens down almost the whole way. You tighten and loosen the T handle every time you use the stand. The T handle does exert force trying to spread the uprights, so I snug it up to the black line every year. I have never had the motorcycle fall off the stand or even come close. I'm still content using the stand in the video. Happy riding!

@@camgere Thank you answered my question perfectly. My question was exactly about that Black knob close to the ground (where you used a Sharpie to make a reference line); I plan to (during my first use) drill small holes across the main cross-bar (the bottom bar that goes under the motorcycle) then push a pin through these holes to block/keep the adjustment from ever possibly move as I also plan to use my Abba stand for storing my bike through the winter (just want to be sure there is no if or buts and nightmares). Also Thank you very much for your detailed reply 👍👍👍

Thank you for your kind words and for watching!

First thing I tried. It didn't work very well. But if it works for you, an easy fix.

Oh, dear. That doesn't sound good. Did you torque the main headlight bolts down to 15 ft-lbs? I know it's a hassle, but go back and check this. If it pushes forward at this point, it is a mystery to me. My fairing is still tight and doesn't push forward. Maybe it's time to have a mechanic install it. I can't really diagnose this remotely. Sorry.

@@camgere Thank you very much for your answer, no, I did not do it with a torque wrench, I tightened it as much as I could by hand, tomorrow I will check it again with a torque wrench and write.

@@AbdulkadirALTUNPUL There is nothing magic about a torque wrench. I'm sure I could have tightened the bolts down much tighter. If the brackets are sliding while you still have everything open, you should be able to see why. You can even take off the fairing (4 bolts) and test each side independently. All I can think of is that something is keeping the bracket from lying flat to the parts next to it. Or the bracket is not fully inserted. Good luck.

@@camgere Hello again I watched your video again from start to finish, I did everything from the beginning, this time it happened and the error was fixed. 😊😊👍 Thank you for your answers and your interest.

@@AbdulkadirALTUNPUL Glad to hear it! I've been stumped on mechanical problems myself. Even something as simple as getting a screw started in an award position. Enjoy your motorcycle!

On my bike the tank is black and yellow. I've seen pictures of earlier model years where it was dark green and yellow, which is closer to the fairing. Green is such an iconic Kawasaki color I don't mind a bit of it. Also works on St. Patrick's day.

A reasonable choice.

I admire a man who calls a spade a spade!

@@camgere 😂🤣

I'm thinking about getting one for my black edition. How'd it work out for you?

That 2 pi F shows up in many things, interesting it's here too

Thank you for your kind words. I intentionally tried to do something other than the tape measure and calculator video. Those videos are worth watching, too. Especially for your particular bike. I focused on "what", rather than "how". In the end, you have to get your bike to do "what" you want.

Thank you for the feedback.

I'm happy to help out my fellow motorcyclists.

@@camgere thank you for the reply. And be safe have fun ride free.

That’s what I did too

I have had smaller motorcycles that I adjusted the chain every 250-500 miles. I'll give the chain a tug with my finger that often to see if it is loose. I clean (kerosene, grunge brush) and lubricate the chain every 1,000 miles. I adjust it every 2,000 or 3,000 miles. The service interval is 4,000 miles, so I could probably get away with letting the shop mechanic do it. I stay below half of redline most of the time, although I do zing it up occasionally. Life is coming at you really fast. Thank you for watching.

Thank you for watching. Feel free to post how it turned out.

Thank you. I've seen engineers get their first digital design and they just start drawing gates that do this and gates that do that and can't quite figure out how to tie it all together.

The simple answer. 6:40 Use the 30 degree angle marks on the sharpener. You should hold the round file tool horizontal and not tilted when you file (regardless of the set). 8:22 The proper depth is .025”. The very long answer. I’m just a homeowner, so there is no way I am going to get this perfectly right. This is pretty much impossible to do without pictures. Chainsaw terminology comes from crosscut saw terminology. This goes back centuries. There are two kinds of crosscut saws: handheld carpentry saws and lumberjack felling saws. The felling saws are more complicated (and complete) so we will consider them. They have various parameters: Rake Angle, Fleam, slope and set. Felling saws use flat sided (sometimes triangular) files, not round files like chainsaws. Felling saws have rakers that pull the sliced wood off. Chainsaws have depth guides that are incorrectly referred to as “rakers”. Rake angle is pretty much the same for felling saws as for motorcycle front forks. When Peter is riding the Captain America bike straight down the road, the angle of the front forks from vertical is the rake angle. (around 40 degrees) The fleam angle is zero. A yardstick placed across the forks would be exactly perpendicular to the direction of travel. When he stops the bike and turns the handlebars, the forks have a fleam angle. Our yardstick is pointed to the side. You could consider this to be bevel. This is consistent with the bevel on a knife blade. The sawtooth on a feller’s crosscut saw is much like a tiny knife blade. When you file the tooth, you could hold the file horizontal or at a slope. We call this “slope”. When Peter puts his bike on the side stand the forks have “slope”. If you interleave your fingers, some are pointed one way and some the other way. Every other finger changes direction. This is like the “set” on the saw teeth. Every other tooth is tilted slightly to the side. Sawing is like dozens of little knives slicing through the wood and then raking the pieces off. Chainsaw cutters are more like chisels than knives. So, the terminology can get very confusing. If you are bored and want a challenge, buy a $10 fellers crosscut saw at a garage sale and try to sharpen it correctly. All this nonsense will start to make sense. You’ll really know how well you did when you use it too cut down a tree. Happy sharpening!

I think you are talking about Show/Hide Formatting (<ctl-shft-8>). It makes it easier to count spaces. Line wrap is slightly different than paragraph. I like it on, but I could just as well turn it off. Thank you for watching.

I'm still happy with mine 2 1/2 years later. I had a rear axle stand on my Hayabus and I was always terrified it would fall over getting it on and off. The Abba, with a 26" bar that sits on the ground, is very stable. Thank you for watching!

I have nothing against MKS units. It makes physics easier. A very good thing. However, we should be using hexadecimal (base 16). 3 11/16" = 3.Bh" or 3 plus one half plus one eighth plus one sixteenth inches. Or it could be centimeters. Are you carpenters and wrenchers with me? Everybody has their little pet peeves. Happy Riding!

You should be OK as long as the indicator line is not in the red (or the chain is overtightened). Happy riding!

@@seanwieland9763 Thank you for the information. Given the fact that 32 and 64 core chips are becoming ever more common, getting all that processing power to work together is becoming more important. Inter-chip communication extends this even more,