i don't make the rules!

@Alex-f1j5i no idea, I guessed the door was in the 200lb range and told the garage spring people that. basically any garage door spring ahould be fine for a trailer door.

@@jamesp13152 thanks friend!

@@tbuffi3790 you could do it in a day if you had the material together

@@MooseDoesStuff I was talking about the whole project from start to finish? Unless I miss it, you had four videos on raising the garage? Looking at the days you posted. I'm thinking this took about a month?

@tbuffi3790 yeah I have to spread my work out based on what materials I have at the time. if you have the materials, it's a day job or less.

@@f33fifofum thanks!

@@luke2042 thanks!

@halleffect1 yeahhhhh it's not fast! fun tho 😁

@@deltajohnny worth it tho!

@terencelee9704 code might be different where you are. for me, it's not load bearing, only holding up drywall, so they mostly don't care. check with your local codes to be sure tho!

@@hkbsud3431 how much u think a 7s yt vid pays?

@@DirectInput if not for the smell that'd be a great idea! this place stank the worst out of any I've ever been in

Um, ... Controled Burn

@@DeFrisselle sprinkle in a little Texas chainsaw

@Starchface this one was just today! still have no idea why I was heaving 😆 and, sort of, the whole NE quadrant is

@@jlawlar I honestly wouldn't be surprised!

inspector didn't say so, might be different where you are. also with the amount of insulation on top, that's way more fire break than drywall

might be, but I don't have one 😅

mega deal there! GG!

I have some, just wasn't using them that day!

take the insulation out of your attic hatch in Canada and lmk if you still feel that way 😆

hey, if you can do what you need in those, by all means! my point is not to try to force using CAD when you definitely don't need to

what will scratching the paint do? this isn't lvp 😆

22x24 - I probably never said

Perfect. I have a 20 x 24 that I need to move off foundation to pour a new slab. You obviously used lvl across the studs to lift and I saw you said you were going to use them for a different project anyway. What size lvl's did you use? Do you think a single 9.25 lvl would be enough if attached to each stud in the wall to lift and move if each lvl is extended 4' through the exterior wall? I plan to use 4 skidsteers to lift and move the garage out of the way so I can set it on the ground behind the slab for safe keeping (saw your 4th video :o) I could always double the lvl up too I suppose but don't want to buy anymore than I really need because I may use eventually but don't have an immediate use. @@MooseDoesStuff

I have to lift on the outside because I will have 2 layers of block around the perimeter of the slab that will inhibit moving or lifting from the inside.

@@azb928 I had a whole thing typed up and then it evaporated. So, TLDR: 4 skids will probably rip supports off the walls. Also supports will twist if you don't have perfect coordination. Look at a way to either slide it on sleds under the bottom plates, or kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nL6ql9SLsZ6-gqc.html fenceposts or something. Long as the ground is firm enough (or covered with plywood) you're good to go. I'd still use 2x10's on the inside to shore up the walls and prevent sag. Cheaper than LVLs. And be sure when you stop moving it you square it first, 'cuz whatever method you choose, you'll be out of square after a move.

@@azb928 See other reply, also see if you can move the block out before moving. Sliding or rolling will be a much better option than trying to coordinate 4 skids.

Might wanna invest in better tools for seven! I only had to do two XD

no, condos this age here seem to frequently not have shutoffs

sure, but that doesn't explain the price difference

​@@MooseDoesStuffYou compared a residential grade 15 amp receptacle to a 20 amp commercial grade. You should compare both of the same grade, commercial or spec grade, then the design shape would be identical, only the horizontal slot would be different.

​@@surferdude642 ​@surferdude642 you know where to get cheaper 20a outlets in Canada? would love to hear! fyi: there's no distinction "commercial" vs "residential" here on these.

@@MooseDoesStuff I'm in the US, so no I don't, sorry. Most of the receptacles are made or at least designed by American companies. I guess the CEC decided that all 15 amp receptacles must be residential grade and commercial grade receptacles are all 20 amp for 120v circuits? That would explain why 20 amp receptacles used in residential applications must be used for 20 amp circuits. In the US, the NEC allows 15 or 20 amp duplex receptacles on 20 amp circuits, without distinguishing between residential or spec grade. Personally, I would only use a spec grade on a 20 amp circuit, and usually on a 15 amp circuit as well. There are still some electricians and others that opine if it's a 20 amp circuit, use only a 20 amp receptacle, here in the US, notwithstanding the NEC's permission to use a 15 amp duplex receptacle. BTW, you can actually get 20 amp residential grade here, although they are not as common.

@surferdude642 there's no difference between residential and commercial for recepticals here. just amp rating.

all fixed now tho, yea?

@@MooseDoesStuff ...😂😂😂... Naw, "Betsey LuLu " is on her "attitude phase"...Fixed the heater hoses a week or so ago...Did that fix the leak,...Nawwww...Had to go BACK to the parts store and get all new clamps, and some more hose...Old spring clamps didn't hold tite enuff...Rite now, when I gitn ready for annual maintenance, we got smog pump, Dizzy, Wheel bearings, power steering pump, full steering system all the way to the firewall including ball joints drag links, steering gear box, etc...Just got done doing Coil springs a couple weeks ago...And all this is just for starters...And essentially doing all on the side of the road, since my Apt complex doesn't allow me to work on my truck in the parking lot...😭😭😭... I could spend 'bout 2 weeks fixing all this stuff if I had a covered shop...Now, it's when it's good weather and ain't too hot...

@@ToyManFlyer1100 sounds like whenever I try to do plumbing, there's always some dumb part I didn't get 😆

@@MooseDoesStuff.... you ain't lying....Coil springs...Went with cheaper aftermarket instead of MOOG...Springs was totally made wrong, could not use them, even though they said were the same as CC820 MOOG'S....Bottom line...Buy once...Cry once...Any suspension parts for "FOAD", Go with MOOG...Yeah, they a l'il pricey, but they fit...No fuss...No must...

Which part am I wrong about? Say I'm wrong all you want, but specify why. I think, rather than me going backwards, you're trying to skip foundational steps and you're losing out on basic skills. You say you let your app make the shop drawings, I bet when you find yourself in a situation where you don't have the app available, you're going to really struggle. If you can't imagine a final 3d object, you're really not much of a designer. Finally, saying "Shapr3d is so easy to learn"... is exactly my point. You don't need to learn a package like fireworks - it's intuitive. But if you wanna prove me wrong, go make a video that does what I do in this, and show how shapr is faster and more intuitive.

@@MooseDoesStuffYou can use Fireworks a WebDesign tool to make your pattern layout if you want. I rather teach my students quick sketches and then we go into CAD because it offers a much better experience and method to explore designs. That’s also how we work in the industry btw ;)

@@cekuhnen because all you know is cad, and you don't actually build anything?

@@MooseDoesStuff you are getting pretty offensive - not really a strong way to discuss but ok ... You continue using fireworks - we teach the students to sketch ideas quickly and refine in 3D, as also our commercial clients we do work with to do because that is how the industry works today.

​@@cekuhnen oh, sorry, my bad.... I missed your foam core video 😂🤣 hmu when you've framed a house, powercarved a bench, or have actually built any of those ikea pieces you've ripped modeling for content 🙄

I'd prefer one that's just floors & kitchen, but this is what was available. on the flip side, I've barely spent anything to do the extra demo, and because it was so bad I was able to get it for 12k under asking. that basically covers the cost of the reno, and even if it takes a bit longer, right now this market is appreciating so fast that it actually works out in my favor.

At this point I'm more qualified than most home inspectors here. Also, being a condo, all the structural issues you'd be concerned about a home inspection finding, would show up in a condo docs review

@@MooseDoesStuff oh okay

No, the noise was from being seized