It’s the 3rd one to break. 8x3=$24 + 3 day wait for the part. That’s 1 hour total time fixing the same issue @ $65 an hour for $89 dollars total investment. My fix took 15 minutes, didn’t cost anything, and never broke again. Every one has to pay one way or another and factor in how much down time they can afford.

@@boxelder9167 You can't argue logic like that.

You are correct and that’s good advice. My temporary fix will likely outlast the deck though and has already outlasted the life of the battery which I replaced with an off brand. It is still working fine since I “fixed it”.😀 Thanks for the comment and the advice.

I have one somewhere but couldn’t find it. Home Depot is an hour and a half away so I decided to go ahead and try it with the crimps. So far so good and it’s holding pressure. I will probably order it online so that I have it in stock. Thank you for the suggestion and the comment though. Thanks for your interest and thanks for watching.

It was very tender but I think I will try it again without the mustard. Thanks for your interest.

I have used twist ties and pipe cleaners. Also make sure you have the chick on a surface that has enough traction. An old piece of screen from a window or a piece of carpet, that will keep the legs from sliding apart under their own weight. I have seen people use a small glass but it restricts their movement. They usually lean to walk with the splint in a few hours to a day and I usually check them at 3 days with the splint removed and reapply it for a couple more days if needed.

Excellent! Glad you found it useful and sorry for the quality as the formatting clipped out the parts I was trying to show.

I do and it’s like 144 pages long or so.

Would you be willing to share that ?

@@musiqero - I have notes written all over it and only one copy. I am not sure the most practical way to share it or if it would violate any copyright. I can flip through it on a video but it would be hard to find the page that you were trying to read. They don’t have any dimensions on it because they precut the parts for their kits. I did a complete video series of the ones that I build and I included all of my dimensions and tips on the assembly. You could follow them and build one yourself from my videos. The biggest difference is that I reduced the time and waste from their design and put a shed roof on instead of the gable one that they build. I built the kit one that they make for a buddy of mine then redesigned it and built my own which saved me about $2500 from their costs. I built another one after I had made a few more improvements and did the video series. The videos I made are all numbered and I have them all in a playlist on my channel. If you follow them in order you should have the same coop as I made when you are done. Use rafters instead if you want the gable style roof and make your walls all 6’ tall. Personally I’d just make the shed roof because it only requires one gutter to divert the water. My friend was fighting two gutters and trying to get all the water in one place to make drinking water for his birds is why I did one slope. Way less material, fewer cuts, no ridge to mess with, i get space for extra roosting bars which my chickens prefer to use over the eggs hutch part. They also used a lot of unnecessary plywood to make it more airtight but they actually need the ventilation. Unless you have temperatures below minus 20F for extended periods of time I would recommend leaving the small amount of gaps around the window frames. I noticed that CC activity has changed over to lap joints now because of plywood being too expensive. Their new design is a lot closer to mine now and they only use sheeting where I did. Their old plans which I have had 30 pages just for the sheeting assembly which I eliminated and simplified. Just let me know what you think and I’ll help you out however I can. Just don’t expect their plans to work out for making a cut list off of because they don’t have any dimensions except for the ones that I needed and scribbled on them neatly enough for me to read them. I actually just made the video series for myself mostly so that I could remember what I did the last time so I could just make it instead of trying to figure it all out again. I included the tips to watch out for because it anticipates the problems that happen when you start assembling your panels together. It takes about 40 man hours to build and then 3 hours to put together all the wall panels together and then put the roof on. The CC kit was closer to 50 hours to make and they already had the parts cut for you. So I saved 10 hours or so (depending on installation location if I break it down to ship it) and $2500 doing it my way. So let me know what you think and what you are trying to accomplish so I don’t send you a set of plans that are more troublesome than helpful. They have pretty good pictures but it seems like it doesn’t really make sense until you start getting it together and then you see what they were trying to do but if you were off a bit then you have to modify it and make it work because their plywood gets in the way unless it’s perfect. Once I realized what they were trying to make then I just made it work better with less hassle even though I had to cut everything myself and it still saved time.

Excellent! I bought the cheapest welder money could buy with almost no temp control and I have been out of practice for the last 30 years then started by welding on thin as heck cheap Chinese galvanized steel. At the end of the day I was just glad to get it to stick together and hold. I also found out I needed bifocals and can't see like I used to. Hopefully your welds are much, much better than mine but I still wanted to demonstrate that these flimsy metal frames could be modified to withstand 60 mph winds when it would not have stood a 20 mph wind out of the box. I used to use a Miller every day and they are a WAY better machine. Mine has too hot and too cold and not much in between. Also it would have helped if I had ground the zinc off first instead of burning it off with the weld.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eZqel8J8teCveJc.htmlfeature=shared

That’s probably a good idea. I do have some mycorrhiza in several different places on my property that I can get by the shovel full. I could add some of that. It’s also sprouting mushroom heads so it’s easy to spot. If I leave some wood chips or bark on the ground it is covered in a few months so it’s probably already well established in the soil. I just don’t know about that specific spot. I have been waiting for some wood chips to be delivered and planned on putting them around the base of the trees. I suspect that will help keep the fungi growing in that spot. It spreads fairly rapidly.

I have not but I have only recently heard about doing that. I have added diatomaceous earth though.

@boxelder9167 I have heard that DE will kill some of the microbs in the deep liter as I want to use it as compost. I am just learning, so have not determined if that is true.

@@glennlewman4186 - When I was taking botany classes 30 years ago I was told that the diatomaceous earth mainly impacted the undesirable organisms, cut worms, hook worms, parasites, etc but I didn’t look into that further and it may be out of date information. It would be worth looking into further. Also I spread my chickens manure out as far as possible to avoid any concentrated areas. I have burned plants with concentrated chicken manure in the past but it was pellets that were made from factory farm manure. It contained no added carbon to help break it down like the deep litter method uses. Hopefully I will find some better answers for these questions.

I have have had this for a couple years now and I raised it up 12 inches. It feels like it’s 25% bigger now. I have posted a few other videos on how I upgraded it to something downright respectable. The cover is worth the purchase price and has held up well. I also added a roll up method for the windows. Made a better door latch. Added a misting system. Raised it a foot. Added a weed barrier floor. And I made vertical gardening barrels which hold the temperature above freezing down to 20 degrees F. Recently I’ve put power and water to the location as well. For what I have into it I got a lot of bang for my buck but I put some time into making it perform well above the original setup. Way better than the cattle panels and plastic ones that I see other people trying to squeeze out every cent. Glad you liked my video and let me know if you have any questions. I really appreciate your feedback and I really enjoy helping others solving problems.

I tried to cram all of the darn I could get into the education part of the package.

Maybe. But I know exactly what’s in it, unlike the food processed in a plant by corporations that don’t care about the end user.

You’re welcome 😊 Have a great day!

I modified them from a set of plans that come with a kit my buddy bought. I show pretty much everything in the video series and it’s in the order of production. You could screenshot the plans from my video because the actual plans are like a couple hundred pages and most of it is a repeat of the same thing with an additional step. I really streamlined the plans to make it simpler, easier and stronger with less materials and hence cheaper. The kit was around $5000 and I built the whole thing installed from scratch for $5000 materials and labor combined. The kit still took 2 days to assemble with everything cut out and numbered. I basically just made my own kit and put it together. My videos give you every measurement you need. I made it for myself because I can just watch it and cut the material and assemble. I have made like 8 of them so far but I forgot what I figured out each time and I have to figure it out again. So basically you would have to order their kit to get the plans and spend $5000 or you can watch my video and make it yourself for about $2200 or so in materials. I would recommend using the 1/2” 4x8 PVC board that they sell at Lowes for the interior of the house part. It takes 2 sheets. They are like $80 each or something stupid but they save enough labor for a good trade off. It takes me 71 man hours from start to finish to build one. That puts it around $35 an hour you save vs a kit. The kit took around 24 man hours with a “helper” that maybe helped 1/3 of the time. Put the hardware on with the panel laying flat. The kit didn’t do it that way and it tripled the time it took to get the hardware straight. Basically you are going to build each panel and then you put the panels together on site. They are small enough that one person could manage them but 2 people would be nice. Aaaaand, make sure you have the walk in door where you want it. Sometimes it doesn’t matter unless it’s going up against a fence or something. I had a customer tell me wrong and I had to go flip everything over.

Oh, and I have the complete build on a playlist on my channel. Technically I could use less material if I wanted to build something in place but I made it so that I can transport it laying flat and put it together on site in a couple hours. I like that it’s a little bit heavier because it doesn’t blow over in a 60 mph wind zone. I thought about drawing my own set of plans so I could get them to people without having a copyright infringement but I have only had 2 requests for this.

Thanks. The biggest thing I would have done differently is to raise the sides up at least a foot. I am thinking about getting a few more for doing winter sowing in.

I would have loved to put a failure on the map as well done as this one. Most of my failures are not as memorable as this was.

@@boxelder9167 “well done”? It’s a financial black hole, something completely unable to turn a profit or even stay afloat without taxpayer support. And that’s without getting into the fact that everything in it is wrong and not even remotely based on reality. 😂

@@V0idFace - Sometimes it’s not about the money but about the value of a human life. But I decided to look into this. “Ark Encounter has had a positive impact on the local economy, generating over $500 million in economic activity and creating over 2,000 jobs in the region.” It operates at around a 10% profit margin. I know that you have said that everything that I say is false but when I look up what you say it doesn’t align with what the truth is. If you aren’t intentionally lying this leaves us with 2 possibilities which are ignorance or incompetence. Ignorance is easier to overcome. If you have legitimate questions and you can’t find the answers then I can help you find sources. It would help if you could ask a question rather than just making an accusation. For example, instead of saying, “Everything you say is a lie.” Try asking, “What are your sources for this?” I generally have sources for the claims that I make. That being said there’s a lot of evidence for Noah’s flood. The characters inside of the words of the Chinese language tell the flood story. The Red Record tells the flood story. About 100 other cultures have a flood story. Maybe we could get some better answers by asking better questions. Where would you like to start?

@@boxelder9167 no, when it comes to a business it’s pretty much all about the money. And that’s without addressing the fact this joke/failure of a “museum” adds no value to the lives of anyone. Spreading misinformation is not valuable. Try again…again. 😂

@@V0idFace - It added value to my life. You keep making absolute statements and the problem with absolute statements is that if they are not 100% true then they are false. So basically you keep making false statements. If it doesn’t add value to your life then it’s not automatically true that it doesn’t add value to anyone’s lives. If you are having problems telling the true from the false then perhaps you are right and we should start there.

Excellent suggestion. I think I will try that.

I made the tool pouch myself out of a piece of leather. I sewed it with a Sews Awl I think is what it’s called. I have made a few for others but it takes all day and nobody would pay for that so I usually just give them away. Thank you for your response and feedback. I’m glad you took the time to share your thoughts.

Thanks for the speedy response. I have an old boot shank that should work to make myself one. 👍@@boxelder9167

@@k9er233 - Start with a single piece of leather 7” wide and about 16” long. It’s easier to trim off if it’s too big. Too small and you have to start over. Do the fold for the belt to go through first and make it about 3” and sew it on the front on both sides enough to hold it. Then you slice holes for the top tools to go through in that loop about 1.5” down. Fold the remaining leather back up the front and sew the middle where you want to separate the tools. Don’t sew it all the way to the bottom, just enough to separate the tools. Then fold a pouch big enough for each tool to fit and sew like you did the middle. When you get to the outside edge then sew it all the way to the bottom. Get the leather wet with hot water before you start. Wrap the tools in saran wrap before you start putting them in. Put a little bit of baby powder inside the pouch. Let the tools dry inside the wet pouch. They will be very hard to get out at first and overtime they will loosen up. If they get too loose, get the pouch wet again. Then the leather will shrink again and they will get tighter. The key is to force the tools in wet and then let it dry to the right shape. I can do a video on how to do it if you are having issues figuring out how it works. It’s hard to get it right just using words to describe the process. Let me try it another way. Put the leather flesh side up. Fold down 3” on top for the belt to go through. Stitch the corners to hold. Making the pouch about 7” tall overall fold 5 “ back up and overlap the bottom of your first fold about an inch. Lay out your tools and then stitch between them starting from the middle tools and working out. Trim any excess before stitching the outside edge. I folded my extra over to make a small pouch for my pen and a carpenter pencil on the other side. I may have started with a piece that was 15 by 8. 16 by 8 and you should be fine for the tools that I have. Just trim the excess off when you get it all stitched together. Hopefully that’s enough information but if you have any questions let me know.

Thank you very much for the details about how you crafted your custom pouch. I am looking forward to making one to keep my most used tools close at hand. It has been a very long time since I did any leather work, but I kept all of my tools from way back then. I will have to dig deep to find them them in storage and get to work. Back in the 70's I used to make all my own hawking equipment for my birds. I made a gauntlet glove fitted to my hand, a falconry game bag, hawk hoods, and leather training lures. In the 80's I made several wet moulded holsters for sidearms that I had at the time where I could not find a commercial holster to meet my needs, but I have not really done much leather work since then, except for some saddle repairs about 25 years ago. I always enjoyed working with leather, but just got involved in other pursuits along the way. I am very glad that I hung on to my tools though, as you can pretty much learn how to do most anything if you have the equipment to get it done. I am really looking forward to finding all of my tools and getting back into making leather field gear again. I never was happy with the common nylon/cordura tool carriers that are so common now. Leather eventually forms better to what you are carrying and over time will conform to your body and is much more comfortable to wear for a long day on the water or in the field, and custom fitted pieces work so much better as they are purpose built to do exactly what you need. Good leather can actually last a lifetime if you take good care of it. I have a saddle that was made in around the 1880's that is still functional after the occasional repair. Thanks again for the information. If I need any remedial leather working lessons, I will get in touch. Tight lines! @@boxelder9167

@@k9er233 - My first tool pouch lasted 20 years and I wore it every single day. It conformed to the shape of my tools and to the shape of my body. If I ever try to get through a day without it I will keep reaching for something that is in my pouch and I feel naked without it. I didn’t start doing leather work until the early 80’s and I regret that I no longer have the tools I had back then. I built some nice scabbards for my rifle that I used for hunting on horseback. My next project needs to be something that will comfortably hold the S&W Governor. I love being able to have a .410 or a .45 Long Colt ready to go in the same pistol. I got into a self defense shootout carrying my .380 but afterwards I was wishing I could have been carrying something with more stopping power. I won but it was a lot to ask of a pocket pistol against a .40 with a 30 round extended magazine. That shook me up a bit when he unloaded 26 rounds in my direction. After that I decided that I would just move back to the country to hunt and fish where I belong. Best decision I ever made and I finally got my joy back. My freezer is full of wild game and I can justify getting the boat out there again for some fishing.

I started with pine shavings and then I got the hemp straw. The hemp straw is almost 2 years old now and still works great. I regret not getting to experiment with more different types of litter just to see how different it would react.

I ordered them off of Amazon. I got the biggest ones they sell. I think they are 3.5” x 3/4” if I remember right.