2:40 An interesting design, but IMHO has a big drawback: since the slider is upside down, it only works on a smooth surface like the desk in the video. But it would not work if the track is built on a carpet, as is often the case. So it would be better to have a design with plates on the bottom, then tiles (all upside up, not down), then the slide consisting of a plate and the gear rack on top.

As if you had predicted that Lego trains would use Bluetooth controlling a few years later (PoweredUp system).

One question: the original Lego 9V switch has a very strong spring (locking mechanism), and thus it takes lots of force to actuate it. Did you have to remove the spring on the downside (interior) of the switch, prior to building the motor onto it? Or is the Technic 9V motor, in combination with the clutch, strong enough?

very cool!

4:53 quick question what is that little red button on the arduino board is that like a power button so you could toggle it if you want to

I always like to watch my lego tutorials for the blood and gore

lowest resitor I had was 560 ohm so I guess my raqnge will be limited by a lot

they did make a track switch for the gray 12v trains but the are very rare so its just easier to make this

super puper automat !

Question do you have a code for PU trains. Your code for Bluetooth and Power Functions i go also use this year. I have in total 5 trains. 2 PU and 3 PF (bluethooth and some with Sbrick)

Awesome! Love this! I’ve just started printing track for an aerial line round my living room. Will be implementing full Arduino control. Thanks for sharing1!

so how do I add in a second sensor for station #2, so that it stops and starts at both, Ive been working on it for a week and cannot get it.. tried just about everything, but im not that great at it either. any help is appriciated.

Siemka Polaku , niezła robota ❤

Can i use TSAL6100 instead of TSAL6400?

I know this video is 7 years old, but if you used 4 sensors (one on each side of the junction in each direction) you could tell when the junction was clear without the need for timers. This would easily scale up for people with larger train setups where timers would eventually cause crashes.

Were all waiting for your big return :)

Also I'm puzzled by you referring to the methods via their return types eg 'void Loop' etc. Is this a thing Arduino ppl do routinely? I thought you couldn't overload method names in Arduino, so the namespace would prevent a (say) 'void Loop' and an 'int Loop' both compiling? Sorry if I've missed something mind you, not an Arduino dev. Great vid tho.

Expect lots of ppl know this but there was a magnetically switched set for the older (12-15VDC) sets

Is it save to use a 12V power supply. I tought it is a 9v motor?

Top

Nice

i just remembered this channel existed, and now i'm sad there isn't anymore

ty for this video!!!!

I realise this is an old video but I just found it recently and just wanted to thank you for posting it. It inspired me to play with my Lego trains again - this time in a more advanced way, with an Arduino. I’m very happy I found your channel! Very interesting topic and great info. Thanks again!

Are there circuit diagrams for the hardware wiring, if so would they have them for me?

Is there a way to write our own power functions library? I don't have access to the PFlibrary in the link he shared

im planning on trying to do the same thing but then for the old 7725 train set that runs on 12v wold that work the same or not?

i like to use the i2c backpack for simpler connecting

9:50 Don't drink and train.

I want to control multiple trains at once😥

Lego made kits to solve that problem..... kit 7858

Only found your videos now while looking at adding arduino to my model train projects. Putty you are not active anymore as your videos and explanations are very clear, informative and with just the right amount of humor added. I will be referring back to these videos regularly as I now start my aurduino journey. Thank you

Why does nobody care about the accident? With the CAT?! I wanted this cat so bad when I was a kid! So moral of this video: You need to spot your cat, use ultrasonic or so cause other times it's bad! :) Meow.

cool!!!!

Cool!

I've checked maybe once every 2 or 3 months for 4 years to see if I've accidently missed a video... and will continue to

R-I-P wires

2:22 how do i buy that part inside the train.

It’s been 6 years why haven’t you uploaded any videos

Awesome

But you have 120 volt not 220 like shown it shows 🔌 from another country come on here. I live in the United States. And play with my train sets too and set them up also but the settings are off I need to check the local Lego sales office I guess to help me out!

you really know your storytelling. good job ;)

Come back!!!!!

Do this with pf system

Lego released an automatic decoupling unit 40 years ago for the 12v train system - set 7862

Excelent, this totally works, thanks to the master hacker!

That decoupling looks pretty aggressive, Does the train itself have a throttle threshold that can be manipulated so at it's lowest speed it uses only the required amount of force to decouple?

Hello sir.. very good video.. thanks so much. I got inquiry, can we used the tsal6200 instead of tsal6400?

Very brutal, but absolutly awesome 👍

Czy pan jest z Polski?