How about phosphoric acid instead?

Those fumes are insidious. 1 gal jug, 41%, lid on tight: inside 48' x 60' shop w 20' walls (large interior volume) all my stuff was rusting. Lid was not fully sealing despite being tight. Put it outdoors and solved the problem.

thanks my friend you helped me a lot

cloridric acid with iron form a very toxic compound that can kill you m,, aluminium reaction also that dangerous

Thanks

You neutralize muriatic with baking soda, then water

Lol, dude wrapped a bucket with a heat mat. LMFAO

Thanks for the good video. A few comments. Acid + base = salt + water. The natural antidote to (muriatic acid) hydrochloric acid is sodium hydroxide (lye). Muriatic acid + lye = table salt + water. Water does not neutralize, only dilutes. Hydrogen chloride vapors irritate the respiratory system and corrode everything nearby in seconds! In industry, the process is: after degreasing, rust removal with hydrochloric acid and then immediately rinse thoroughly. If the intention is to elektroplate, there is no need to neutralize, because the elektroplating continues in the acid. But if the intention is to paint, you must immediately neutralize with alkali (NaOH) and then rinse with plenty of water and dry with hot air. Inorganic acids produce interesting results. If you neutralize acetic acid with calcium carbonate (washing soda), you get calcium acetate Ca(C2H3O2)2. When heated, it decomposes into acetone and calcium carbonate.

you actually dont need that threaded sleeve on the chuck, its there so that you can push the chuck off the taper shaft by unscrewing it. its there for convince. on other older drill presses, this sleeve is there but not integrated with the chuck, an example is the walker turner 900 series drill press. but glad you have found the chuck and it looks good on the machine

The rust didn't come from the acid whatsoever. This happens when you get metal down to a bare surface and leave it exposed to moisture. It's the same reason your brake discs will get a coat of orange surface rust overnight if it's raining. Bare metal parts need to be covered in either paint or oil almost immediately after cleaning.

I don't think it was the acid fumes. I think it was just moisture in the air flash rusting the freshly etched metal. You got fresh acid etched bare steel. Any bit moisture is gonna make it rust right away.

Thanks for this video! I just bought a 2700 model Beaver drill press and, although my chuck appears to be in good shape, it's very helpful to know how to remove it if necessary. I have the same model jointer and tablesaw that you have. They belonged to my father who used them in his carpentry and homebuilding business (in Guelph!). The still work perfectly. A few years ago, I found a Beaver bandsaw online and was able to purchase it for a good price. These tools are well designed, well made and just a pleasure to use. Thanks again!

You should have sprayed everything with WD 40 until ready for re-painting.

flash rust,just dip it again and seal immediately after wash and dry!!!and yup the fumes will rust all in the area...

I’ve been experimenting with stronger and stronger vinegar to get rid of rust off old tools. I think I’ve pushed it too far and the last batch I left in 20% strength industrial cleaning vinegar for a few weeks and now all the hardened steel is eaten away like a honeycomb effect. Does anyone know if they are ruined or is it salvageable with heavy grinding?

All water will do is dilute the acid. It has to be neutralized.

You made it way too strong. For every 1 L, use 900 mL of water then 100 mL of the concentrated HCl. That means you will dilute the acid 10X. Always add acid last. So it you want about 3 gallons total. Add 10.4 L of water to the bucket first then about 1 L of the acid last. You only need to put the part in for about 20 minutes.

when you acid bath the metal it strips it bare. in that it will rust instantly! take it out of the acid and neutralize in baking soda, dry and either paint or coat in oil to keep it from rusting again rapidly.

your mixture was 4:1 not 1:1

I need to remove heavy rust from steel base columns . So if I understand. 1. MIX 1 cup acid + 1 cup water with baking soda. 2. Spray 3. Rinse with water 4. Dry really good and 5. W40 or primer. I am right? Thanks

What if the metal is soaked in diesel? Will it flash?

baking soda to neutralize. i mix it in water and rinse acid off and go strait to that. im laying here with a wet rag soaked in baking soda on my ass cheek rite now because i had a 3 gallon backpack sprayer of acid cut loose on me today.

Be sure to neutralize the acid, with Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) or Amonia. Then, immediately coat the bare metal surface with a protective barrier like oil, or primer if you plan to paint it.

rust is caused by air and water, not acid or fumes

Flash rust is a thing, but note how the part that wasn't in the acid didn't rust? Yeah, water alone won't neutralize the acid, use a baking soda water mix, then rinse with plain water after. I made that mistake before, it's a learning process. Love how you had the success and failure together. So many fake people would have edited out the mistake, respect.

It may be a bit redundant, but I think I would pull the parts out. Neutralize them in baking soda and water. Before I did any kind of brushing at all, when dealing with acid. You can always throw them back in if they are not done.

Flash rust. didn't get all the acid off the part.

Muriatic acid is over kill at most you only need a 6% solution. Ifs better to use vinager or citric acid for rust then neutralize with a bicaranate solution. Use wd40 to stop it rerusting. Do not use muriatic acid for this.

im not a chemist, yet it was explained to me that with acid less or diluted can work very well, full strength acid the molecules are like having to many cooks in one kitchen they impede each others activity, the acid reacts with the metal along with water, now if you want shake a little table salt into it also it can help

It is best to neutralize with baking soda in the water. Plain water would have to be changed a few times with long soaks. This would most likely reflash your rust. Baking soda neutralizes the acid in all the nooks and crannies very quickly so a ten minute soak in warm water with soda will be very effective. Then one rinse in pure water and quickly drying the items seems to work the best. After wire wheeling wipe them off and coat with an oil. I like to heat them to three or four hundred degrees and then quench in oil.

Yeah, you learned a lesion, but the 1st lesion you should have learned is to always try doing what your going to do before you offer it to the public! By the way, YOU smell, it STINKs! Thanks, JD

Inexperience as your teacher is a bitch. Thanks for the lesson though for the rest of us to learn and understand.

Used Muriatic Acid for 25 years. Safety first. Use full strength or 50/50 water based. If soaking at full strength it has to monitored. Will eat the part. I usually will brush acid on non precision car parts. If the part had ground or machine surfaces use sparingly. Or use cleaning vinegar. Some parts I full on full strength. Trailer axle, trailer springs, lawn mower deck, snowblower housing, car rims. Parts of machine finish to use a lighter acid to clean. Crankshaft on lawnmower or snowblower.can put electrical tape on ground finishes and do the counterweights with Muriatic. Always be careful. Bottom line.

Freshly cleaned metal will rust start rusting immediately in the air as well (the acid vapors also) you need to paint or oil the parts to keep the air away.

Three things: 1) Neutralize the acid on the iron by putting them in a baking soda or drain unclogger + water solution for a few minutes, or scrub them down with oven cleaner (fume type). Then soap wash. This will prevent rust flash, and also the rust won't develop under any paint you might use. (Water alone does not neutralize anything.) 2)) Don't acid-bath springs!!! This will cause a change in the metallurgy and also cause stress concentrations. Just buff them off. 3) Those plastics like what the bucket is made of don't get affected by Muriatic acid. However, some plastics disintegrate in short order. Best to keep this in mind.

Informative video on how to do it and what to watch out for. Thanks for the knowledge. Keep making videos.

Dude... bare iron with rust within hours is not coated with some kind of protectant. This is expected.

Or hydrochloric acid if you want the more accurate chemical name. Muriatic acid is an old fashioned term meaning "pertaining to brine or salt" (Wikipedia) which really has little to do with its modern production. A term used more for historic reasons than anything else. Sometimes also called Spirits of salts. If you walk into a hardware shop here to buy Muriatic Acid they will look at you blankly. I suspect that Muriatic Acid usage in the US is a bit like Imperial v metric. Sometimes the US has a bit of difficulty keeping up with the times.

Don't wear gloves while using a bench grinder, my man. I'll let google images tell you why not.

very helpful.

Ahhhhh hahaha Sucker!!!! Learned the hard way Use water and baking soda to neutralize afterwards I usually use engine oil etc to keep from rusting.

Scary but effective. Rare Buttress Threads. You did not Neutralize the parts completely . So many 'experts' here!

I have been using it to derust parts for years or clean fuel tanks. It's no big deal.

A couple more options are electrolysis and/or warm vinegar with salt added. Keep an eye on small parts when using the vinegar method. I ruined a small auger bit by leaving it in the solution too long. Chlorine will cause you the same problems when left open around tools and such. 👍🍻

hydrogen chloride gas

Soak the parts in baking soda solution, rinse, dry and coat with oil or paint.

I had a neighbor with a gallon of muratic acid that had a pin hole leak onto a wood bench and didn't know it. It ate a hole in the bench and the fumes caused any fine steel that was nearby to rust in a matter of a couple weeks. Almost a disaster. It's thought me to even bag the jug with some heavy plastic if I store it. I pretty much use the Evaporust now, fairly safe even though it takes a little more time. 👍

You mentioned breathing the fumes and the need to use a mask. What you need is an acid gas rated respirator, or preferably such a respirator and adequate ventilation. Also, removing rust by this method might be problematic for the spring as it can make the steel more brittle. The rest of the parts are thick enough that hydrogen embrittlement of the surface is unlikely to be a serious issue. It is nice to see proper buttress threads on the screw, which is a detail often missed for parts today. It is a stronger thread profile in one direction, so it is used in that case in the direction that the screw is tightened.

Sounds like you know exactly what happened in there guy. Yikes! Gteat looking od bench vice though!

You made a shitload of mistakes. Water does not neutralize acids. Sodium bicarbonate will neutralize the acid but leave a film preventing paint adhesion, use sodium hydroxide. You had flash rust in parts but the black is called smut and is the impurities brought to the surface by the acid. You still had acid in the pores of the cast iron because you didn’t neutralize the parts. You should have dissolved the rust with the HCL, neutralized with lye (NaOH ), washed in water , dried and painted. The polishing is a waste or time. A quick dip in phosphoric acid would have left a phosphate coating on the iron for more protection and paint adhesion. Warming the acid is not necessary , it would have worked fine but taken longer. Putting springs in the hydrochloric acid is not good, you run the risk of hydrogen embrittlement and the spring may break.