You got yourself into the best thing that will happen to you….
@NChirikos17 күн бұрын
I am curious why you didn't use the Euro ignition system that was on the bike? Was it failing?
@airheadbarn16 күн бұрын
That was the problem. It died. Thanks for watching!
@henryt283018 күн бұрын
Thanks for all the great tutorials! If I do not intend to take the valves apart to lap them, can I still still do the buffing wheel technique to get rid of the carbons on the valve and the cylinder head?
@airheadbarn17 күн бұрын
Most likely even though you might have some small remaining carbonized part where valve meets the seat. Thanks for watching!
@harrycarre204820 күн бұрын
Fantastic video. I have just removed the threaded ring on my 80/7 and it has the remains of the old sealant which I am cleaning off. What is the name of the sealant you reseal the threads with. Thanks for the great tutorials
@airheadbarn17 күн бұрын
Hylomar. Thanks for watching!
@supermezzo07Ай бұрын
Amazing, thanks. Could you please share the putter diameter of the tool and the thickness of the teeth? I’m trying to build my own tools :)
@supermezzo07Ай бұрын
What tool do you use for the pinion ring nut? Looks like a bolt? where did you get it?
My odometer mileage just went from 15k to 56k on a 5 minute ride. I'm about to use the video to remove and repair what ever went wrong. Will I be able to rotate those the miles back to the correct numbers with out causing more damage?
@airheadbarnАй бұрын
Not sure about that. Let us know what you discover and thanks for watching!
@jdhartenstein2 ай бұрын
Awesome, thank you!
@felixfriedmann97472 ай бұрын
many thanks for your very informative video. Absolutely helpful and priceless. I am going ahead and will order from Matt(R90x designs) the parts I need to convert my brakes (BMW R90/6 early 1974)to exactly what you just showed us. My concern and question would be, to operate a brake lever with integrated master cylinder, how would I be able to get away with the setup I am having now which is an integrated brake lever and throttle twist grip? Any advise would be highly appreciated. Many thanks Felix
@airheadbarn2 ай бұрын
If I understand correctly, you are saying you updated master brake cylinder to handlebar style, right? If so, please check the video where I did the same conversion on my R80ST. That should help you. Matt is also very helpful and can guide you through the installation. Good luck and thanks for watching.
@rudolftroll24552 ай бұрын
Hi from Germany, its called Verschlimmbesserung, excellent Videos!
@turkishsilver1003 ай бұрын
All talk no action
@airheadbarn3 ай бұрын
Hope other videos will change your opinion. This is intro video while following all videos are action ones in shop. Hope you will enjoy. Thanks for watching!
@davebramsen1004 ай бұрын
The seal replacement??! Help! Is my 1975 R90/6 different? I did not pull out two rings. There is just a single seal. I paid a crazy $39+ for it from Max BMW.
@airheadbarn3 ай бұрын
Big outer seal you see without disassembly is your dust seal. When you remove piston, there is rubber oil seal. Not having that one would make calipers leak so it must be in. Take a closer look. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@59jaguar4 ай бұрын
Did you check the wires going to diode board? I was told that maybe wires are connected to wrong screws there . Not the insulated terminal but the bare ones. I was having same problems with my mechanic trying to install dyna 111 ignition and he couldn’t get two new ones to work without similar issues your having. Only having put back to points did the bike ride normal again.
@airheadbarn3 ай бұрын
Nope, this was was ignition failure and going back to points totally solved it. Thanks for watching!
@scott.lindroth5 ай бұрын
I suspected that the Dyna III ignition on my '75 R90/6 (unknown date of install) was failing (misfires, stalls) because of heat (I live in the US south...) so I just replaced it with an EnDuraLast EDL 4 IGNS. Hoping I won't encounter the problems you are having! You've probably sorted this out on your bike by now, but I wonder if the location of the ignition unit might have been a problem. I put the new unit by the seat (as far from the engine as possible). So far so good, but we are only now moving into warmer weather, so time will tell. Really enjoying your videos - I'm about to replace the rings and push rod seals on the bike, and your thorough demonstration on R75 is helpful!
@airheadbarn3 ай бұрын
Thank you Scott for watching. Heat is definitely big problem for these ignition modules and moving them away from engine totally makes sense. Dyna III I have on r90s is placed by the seat for that same reason. Installation instructions suggest having eme ignition up front and previous owner most likely went that route. I would definitely advise against it and move it more back. Keep the shiny side up!
@scott.lindroth3 ай бұрын
@@airheadbarn One other thought - you mentioned that your caps are 2.3K ohms. EME says that each individual cap should be 5K ohm or it will damage the ignition unit. I replaced my 1K ohm caps with the 5K ohm caps from EME. So far no problem.
@airheadbarn3 ай бұрын
@@scott.lindroth airheads have either 1k plug caps (pre ‘81 points ignition) or 5k plug caps (post ‘81 electronic ignition). This bike originally had 1k caps which were replaced with 5k caps because of aftermarket electronic ignition that was added.
@jtreg5 ай бұрын
Good that you don't use music but consider getting a mate to do camera work. We cannot see what you are doing, sorry but this greatly reduced the usefulness of the video just leaving a camera way too far away from the action and also, try telling us what you are actually doing as you do it. (Post production narration perhaps?). I am airhead owner for 30 years now and will watch this anyway, and thanks for your work, great that you shot it in any case... Hope you don't mind some constructive criticism to help you get more views etc. in the future!
@airheadbarn3 ай бұрын
Thank you for constructive feedback. I’ll try to take it into account when shooting some new videos. I cannot afford to have someone else filming me but can make a pause and bring camera closer to shoot more details. I appreciate this. It is helpful! Thanks for watching
@neiljarvis89115 ай бұрын
Excellent instructional video. Thankyou.
@skene59design5 ай бұрын
Are there any tricks on removing the shock mount out of the Final drive? I need to replace mine. Your advice will be very much appreciated! Thanks
@airheadbarn5 ай бұрын
Never needed to remove it so cannot help you there. I would think it is just press fit but I could be wrong. Thanks for watching!
@wrstew12726 ай бұрын
I have a ‘72 75/5 and the front drum is very poor. Would love to find a cheap replacement to get a disc or two up front!
@MotoDog-lq1ff6 ай бұрын
How did you clean the engine castings?
@airheadbarn6 ай бұрын
First round of cleaning simple green aircraft version with green scoth brite, small steel and brass brushes. No power tools unless you want to unnaturally polish the metal. Second round is with autosol aluminum cleaner with 00 steel wool. That’s it. Good luck and thanks for watching
@petermosdell5806 ай бұрын
Really interested in this series as I’m rebuilding an R50/5 engine. I just couldn’t bring myself to do that inner oil filter bolt up to 40nm. Seems way too tight. I did it by feel but would estimate about half that figure.
@airheadbarn6 ай бұрын
I’m with you on this one. Took me a lot of researching before I decided it is safe to push it. But still good idea to go by feeling even when using torque wrench so you can stop before it goes completely south. Thanks for watching!
@cozydram16 ай бұрын
👍 up on start up
@cozydram16 ай бұрын
is that your POP helping out there.......purhaps you should introduce him to us!!! great content ......if you ever replace the Crank bearings especially the rear one please video it completely even if it take one or two whole video's please.......and thank you for sharing
@sbourdondvm6 ай бұрын
thank you
@thomasross84006 ай бұрын
Great video, thanks for the clear breakdown on inspection and testing procedures
@PistonetSavon7 ай бұрын
Thank you for the tips. Rebulding the breaks is my week end job today ! But my question is about your topcase with the back seat. Have you a reference for it ? Thank's
@airheadbarn7 ай бұрын
It is standard airhead RT top case. It bolts on ST rear rack with some U brackets. Only thing, you will need to extend signal lights so they are not hitting the case. I’m very pleased with end result. If you decide to do it, feel free to reach out at [email protected] and I can share some photos. Thanks for watching!
@Keith-rk4td7 ай бұрын
Wow! That bike looks exactly like my old R80/7.Even the lester mags. Same color, faring. Mine had a Alfabet 2 into one pipe. Really miss that bike.
@stewiemac40177 ай бұрын
That's great to see. I haven't stripped an R90 engine for 36 years 😬 Coincidentally, it had a gudgeon pin circlip that had jumped and marked the bore, although it was only in for weeping bases.
@airheadbarn7 ай бұрын
Good thing is that bore is completely untouched but someone was not paying attention last time it was apart. They were also able to flip head gasket which is directional so pushrods were rubbing against gasket. Fun fun. Thanks for watching!
@user-qg3kk2sb6y7 ай бұрын
Wow you were really lucky to find that circlip in time. Any damage to the cylinder? Hope not. Thanks for sharing, Happy new year😊
@airheadbarn7 ай бұрын
Luckily no damage to cylinder. Thanks for watching and happy New year!
@BunyipToldMe7 ай бұрын
This channel is a joy to watch and learn from. Love it!
@NemanjaGuitar8 ай бұрын
Great video. Where are you located?
@airheadbarn8 ай бұрын
Boulder, CO. Thanks for watching!
@airheadbarn8 ай бұрын
Boulder, CO. Thanks for watching!
@Dan-bd5wt8 ай бұрын
Good work 🇸🇪🇸🇪🇸🇪
@bobs24408 ай бұрын
Great video. Thank you. What is the viscosity of the oil and is it regular fork oil?
@airheadbarn8 ай бұрын
Red Line 5wt. Thanks for watching!
@stewiemac40178 ай бұрын
Lightened flywheel? Looks like a 100S that I had machined out.
@petermosdell5808 ай бұрын
Another really interesting video. Good tip about blocking the crank to prevent it moving forward but in reality can that actually happen with the barrels and pistons fitted ?
@airheadbarn8 ай бұрын
Unfortunately it can. There is enough wiggle room for trust washer to drop. Batter safe than sorry. Thanks for watching!
@bwr66788 ай бұрын
I will be re watching this entire series when I get around to doing my 75/6. I have to call ahead and get a reservation if I plan on stopping 😂. Also I’m not far from you, if you need a bandsaw you’re welcome to borrow mine.
@airheadbarn8 ай бұрын
Hey Branden, thanks for watching and yeah, feel free to stop by any time. I wish I knew you have bandsaw, that would definitely help. Say hi to old man!
@BIGGZ468 ай бұрын
Hi Damir I sent you a message on instagram
@bwr66788 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video Damir. I have one question. I have seen and done this before but it was always heat it up and beat on it until it comes free. You were using a thermometer and I’m just wondering what temperatures you’re looking for.
@airheadbarn8 ай бұрын
Hello and thanks for watching. I usually shoot for 250F/120C and with that it does require a bit of hammering to bring the cassette out. During assembly, I heat up the case in oven at 275F/135C and at that temperature bearings slide in more easily. So, if you would like to avoid hammering, that temperature would be appropriate and safe. Hope this helps.
@nazrexn8 ай бұрын
Hi sir. Where can i buy part koni 7610
@airheadbarn8 ай бұрын
Link for parts is in video description. Thanks for watching!
@bsimpson62049 ай бұрын
Patina really is good because you can relax and ride the bike with no worries at all, I'd only change the seat back to standard
@sbourdondvm9 ай бұрын
first
@toddtonis9 ай бұрын
Hello, thank you for the video. At 33:31 in the video you are in the process of pressing off the flywheel from the crankshaft. You regularly look at the front of the motor during this process. What are you looking at? Is it the front of the crankshaft that you are looking at? I'm looking to do this job in order to check the condition of the oil pump.
@airheadbarn9 ай бұрын
Sometime flywheel comes of easily, sometimes not and you need to use a puller. Bmw factory puller presses agains the case so there is no worry you will push crankshaft in and risk thrust washer dislodging. Unfortunately, I have cycleworks puller that presses agains crankshaft so that risk exist. Crankshaft was blocked at the front but nevertheless it is necessary to check it didn’t move especially if your puller is pressing against it. Thanks for watching!
@wowshi93079 ай бұрын
Mine was having the same symptoms with hiccups and backfiring. I’m still in the process of investigating, but when I removed the tank I noted that the black wire that goes into the ignition module had come loose. I briefly rode the bike and seemed to be fine, but I need to ride it longer to confirm.
@airheadbarn9 ай бұрын
Bad ground can definitely cause headache. Thanks for watching!
@Icychainz8819 ай бұрын
I’m considering doing this upgrade in addition to having a brass sleeve installed in the master cylinder. Do you think the shrinking the master cylinder diameter from 14mm to 12.7mm will negatively effect performance when used with a brembo caliper?
@airheadbarn9 ай бұрын
Hi David, I installed same setup on 2 different bikes: r75/7 with 14mm master cylinder and r80st with 12mm master cylinder. The one with 14mm cylinder performs way better. All brake components of both setups are updated for the best performance but simply 14mm works much better. You will probably have improvement compared to stock Ate system but if your stock is 2-pot brembo like I have in my r80st, there is no significant improvement. Actually, I can now say that I liked stock 2-pot brembo better. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
@Icychainz8819 ай бұрын
@@airheadbarn thank you for your reply! It’s very helpful. I purchased a brembo caliper like the one you have. My concern is that my current master cylinder could have pitting on the inside surface. If 14mm offers better performance I wonder if the master cylinder could be bored out and sleeved to the same 14mm diameter. I’ll reach out to Apple hydraulics and see what they say.
@tcmits369910 ай бұрын
The "STADIVARIUS" of motorcycles, just gets better with age!👍
@renoreno270110 ай бұрын
Interesting.
@dianaewoldt10010 ай бұрын
Y not show the pin removal that holds the needle bearing on the pinion pocket?
@dianaewoldt10010 ай бұрын
Why didn’t u show removing pinion gear bearing pin ?..??
@dianaewoldt10010 ай бұрын
U R showing the E Z Parts show the tuf parts as well
@airheadbarn10 ай бұрын
Because we were doing just resealing of final drive and not complete overhauling. All gears and bearings were in excellent condition and didn't need to be replaced. Don't fix what aint broken. In order to do a resealing, you don't need to remove a pinion gear bearing. If your work requires you to remove it, please check out boxer2valve video series. They did complete overhaul on 81- and on final drive that can still be helpful with older type of final drive/differential. Thanks for watching!
@dianaewoldt10010 ай бұрын
Can not believe they didn’t use a screw instead of a pin w/ no way to grab a hold of !