When you have a "hopeless" photo like this, the best option is to use it as a reference image for a painting where you can give free reign to your imagination.

Good advice This probably applies to more of my photos than I would like to admit.

Thanks for a very useful video. I have been trying to save an image I took of Bass head lighthouse. When ever I learn a new technique or On one comes out with a new upgrade I take the photo out to give it another try. Now seeing this I realize I have the same problem with mine. No looking into a sunset and there is no light hitting my subject.

It's enlightening and refreshing to hear such an ON1 expert give us the advice about limitations on results. I've definitely toiled with multiple tools on some images way beyond what I 'should have'.

Good advice, thanks Scott.

Very useful video for me. I did not really understand the workflow before. Thankyou

Nice to know Scot, thank you but well, it is too late for me. I have moved my image files using my file browser to my to my new external drive. I still have my old laptop, didn't do anything with the existing files. Can I still find the sidecar and move it to the ther external hard drive? Learning by mistakes. 😢 thank you so much.

Great job Scott! Is there any way, when searching metadata, to find all photos that have not been put in an album yet? I have been stacking the search criteria: Album, does not contain, Album1; Album, does not contain, Album2..... etc. By the time I have stacked 10 or so Albums, I am running ot of room for the photogrid display. Something along the line of: Album, does not contain, * would be good?

How do I zoom in and out on Photo Raw 2024 - I don't like the zoom in and out with one click - I was used to zoom in with my mouse on the 2018 version, is this setting possible in 2024?

What's wrong with the settings not being saved on A7R2?

Have you created a video showing how to darken the sky of a B&W photo using ON1 Photo RAW, thus showing an "Ansel Adams" effect?

Thank you, very helpful tip! Could you please tell, if there is opportunity to switch off Non-Destructive Editing, if I don't need it? Can I switch off creating temporary editing files?

very helpful. I use the keystone tool, but with the help of the tips in this video, I will be able to do so with more precision.

Thanks for another interesting tip, always good to go the basics, don't think I have ever used this apart from horizon levelling. Hope to see some sneak previews of the upcoming new version soon.

Hi Scott .. I hope you're doing well. This is a great tool. Is there anything similar for a Lightroom (or camera RAW) user that you are aware of ? Thanks !

Scott. Aren't there programs that fill in the areas that are exposed to have no pixels because of using transform? If so, why doesn't On1 raw do it? Thanks for all your helpful videos.

Great stuff, Scott. Thank you!

On some other editing software, I use a "perspective" tool that's similar to this. But I can also adjust the tool's intensity, so I can have straight towers like this that still converge slightly. I find that a perfectly vertical tower looks kind of fake sometimes, especially if the camera was tilted upward even more than this scene was. And I can also scale the vertical height slightly to avoid a somewhat "squashed" look: When you clicked to apply the keystone here, the building component heights were reduced enough to notice. It's hard to say if that's more accurate or not. I see there's a "vertical" and "horizontal" slider tool -- maybe that's the equivalent fix?

😎👍

As usual Scott, excellent

Thanks for another useful video. As someone who uses PhotoRaw as my main photo editor, I am not a great fan of the transform tool (Or indeed the fact that, despite many requests to rename one of them, there are two entirely different tools with that name!) Using keystone, there is no ability to draw an accurate horizontal line when there is no obvious horizontal in the image by, say, holding down the shift or option key. Nor is there a loupe to magnify the image and enable more accurate perspective correction. I have used (trial versions admittedly) of DxO's Viewpoint, which sadly does not enable one to work on a raw image, but which has all those features plus an auto function that often does the job with just one click. I believe the raw ability is now available in the latest versions of DxO PhotoLab. I wonder what your thoughts on that are, Scott.

Another very useful video... thanks! I remember shooting some wonderful old cobwebby windows of old cabins in the woods, and seeing my reflection in the glass, stepped to the side. With the camera at an angle to the glass, I created a perspective error to deal with in post-processing... D'OH! It's hard to remember this in the field, but it really helps to shoot architecture wider than one may want so there's room for the crop that perspective correction performs. Sometimes Photoshop's Generative Expand can help out here when there isn't room.

Many thanks. I had no idea that keystone was there. Looks extremely useful.

Scott: That was very helpful. i have tried using keystone on whole houses and it rarely helped so I would just use vertical and move on. So this helps me to understand the tool a lot more. Thanks for doing this.

Wow, you always help me to see things in smaller "pieces" that for some reason I don't catch. The little nuances that can be worked independently, and yet bring so much into the photo. Thanks

I love you so much! I recently just found your kislux and i’m in love!! Your videos are so fun and you energy is just MWAH! keep living your life

Hello Scott. Great video. I have followed all the steps but the profile won't show in Lightroom Classic. It does in Camera Raw

I have added text at the bottom of a photo with the name of the place or subject. Can I save this layer and use it on other photos? I will want to change the text but want to keep the font with size and opacity.

Hi, thanks for tutorial, could you please tell, how can I align the text to the image, if i want to place it exactly in the center? The alignment panel aligns text within the frame, how to align text, or the frame itself to the layer/image?

Great tip, might have to go back to a couple of my Carmel photos and see the difference.

Scott, I can't get my mouse to right-click and bring up the menus. Any help?

Thanks for the helpful tips, Scott. I don't know if it is just me, but in a few of your videos I have watched recently, your audio sounds a little off. Not sure how to describe it, but it is harsh sounding. Maybe your mic or its positon?

Scott, do you know if the memory settings reset to default if the battery is out of the camera for a long time?

Thanks for the update, Scott! Unfortunately, now, 4 years later, these bags seem to have been discontinued! I'm not a fan of backpacks, but this one got my attention because it is a backpack that can also function like a sling bag. The sling version of this bag is still available. The alternatives are the backlight backpacks that you remove the shoulder harness and rotate the bag around your waist and open the back. I prefer the sling concept. My Mirrorless Mover 30i is still my everyday bag.

Thanks for the video :) not a masking question, but how do you reset just 1 photo to the beginning (without messing with any other photos) in on1? Is it the x icon or the circle with arrow icon? Thanks in advance!

Thanks

Thanks it is really helpful the new geometric preset on1 recently sent when I use I get lines in my photo how i can get rid off those lines thanks

I have a PSD folder that is recorded in my Lightroom Classic catalog that contains images that have been prepared to be sent out to my printers for their processing. I will open the PSD file within the Photoshop application and making changes by adding layers with text, various layer styles, vender’s template, layouts, et cetera. I will export the final jpg file to the printers for processing and have Photoshop overwrite the changed PDF file and I will close the Photoshop application. Now when I enter Lightroom Classic I will have a conflict in this particular file. To eliminate the conflict I will request that Lightroom take the information from my disk and do an overwrite to the catalog. Is that the correct way to do this? Will the PDF in Lightroom be updated with the new changes?

Wow Scott! Until now this is the best one I've seen, maybe also because I love the subject anyway 🙂. Especially around 2:30 (about luminosity blend mode) Thank you!

Scott. I am a recent owner of a Fuji X-T5 and I saw from a comment down the chain that FujiFilm RAW files don't appear to work in Focus Stacking (X-T2). I am not getting it to work in .JPGs either. The program simply quits when attempting to render the stack, with the very first image. I even re-read the metadata from the Photo menu. 😞 Multiple tickets sent to support after attempting different solutions and the program exiting.

Always appreciate your super helpful videos-thank you!!

Neo's Sharpening Tool is one of the best I've used (although every now and then it's a complete 'miss', with weird artefacts). Sometimes I round trip just for that. Though it is a lot of fun to use, I think.

Outstanding....please keep tips like this going...well presented and comprehensive with high impact for a great edit!

I've had Luminar Neo for about a mouth now, but haven't really used it much. I will try it again, it's little bit hard to get used to.

I’ve been a Luminar subscriber for a few years now (through a few software changes and names!) and really loved how well they did sky replacements before everyone did say replacements. Lately I’ve been using On1 more, plus Radiant Photo and Aurora HDR (which is supposed to be built into Neo now) but when I go back to LR, the photo doesn’t come with me and I have to go import it from my RAWs. Am I missing something with that? I asked them for a solution but they didn’t have a good answer for me! Thanks for sharing your knowledge Scott!

I am in the camp of On1 (+affinity for HDR/stacking/Pano). Should try Neo again and see how it has progressed. Recently was on lookout for other apps to try and switch to...primarily Lightroom, but it was a no go since I couldn't get look/feel as I could in On1 and just not as much fun to use [to me]. I think what you hinted at may be a better mindset on how to look at image editing...not as a one app to do it all (what I keep looking for), but as a progression of different apps working together to reach the end-goal. As always, fantastic video!!! I am curious however how you handle your images... Saving the edited image from other apps next to original? Do you give each a different name and/or label so to know which app you edited or finished it with in case you want to reedit in future? Keep finals separate or export only when needed?

I would not need a tool to remove ten or less dust spots, but what about a photo you shot at f/16 or even f/22 that has a lot of dust spots even if your sensor is quite clean? I think I will try to find that out with a trial version.

Thanks for this. Like you Scott I use a number of different editors. I use ON1 Photo RAW about 90% of the time for basic RAW editing and effects. Its masking tools are excellent but it's not so good for multi image blending such as HDR, and focus stacking (that's truly awful in ON1) so that's when I export to luminar Neo for superior results. Topaz AI does the best job of sharpening and enlarging. Photoshop of course has all the generative bells and whistles and is great for object removal and then "tidying up". If there were only one editor to rule them all I would save a lot of money!

You are absolutely right. The different examples are very telling. I must say that I also use Luminar neo in this way. (Or radiant photo ;-)) Thank you for this reminder... which makes me want to look back at Luminar Neo.

This is one of my favorite places to go for both ocean hiking and camping. My parents took me there when I was a baby in the mid ‘80’s and it’s been a family favorite destination ever since.