I did my first professional stair job and I wanted to thank you for helping me make a living with the knowledge you shared

Where can i source that baseboard from? Can you provide the manufacturer info?

I’m a 4th generation carpenter but no longer work with my tools. I enjoy your videos tremendously. In the commercial world there is zero precision. I am in no way a painter, you couldn’t pay me enough, but I bet those guys love you. It would be even better if you carried at least the trim painting in your number. You probably save them so much labor with your precision I bet they make good money following you.

I needed this video! You summed up everything without any fluff. Thank you and nice work.

A knee replacement/surgery will cost more than these. Get them before it’s too late

Better than cuthub 4000 dollars

Could you show how you make the rabbet cuts on the newel posts? I made a post today like yours but I had to use a hand saw and coping saw to get nice cuts. My table saw fence is not the best and I had issues trying to use it to rabbet.

Is it just circular saw up to the door no guide rail?

Great video (I've watched it three times over the last year or two), but I have a question: Preface: You said that you use the Festool ETS EC 150/5 random orbital sander 99% of the time, and you also said you use 120 grit sandpaper 99.9% of the time on both this sander and your Rotex (which you use on the hardest woods like white oak). My question is-for a non-professional whose workflow is less demanding (though still demanding enough)-might it still make sense to forgo the Rotex and instead go down to a 60 and/or 80 grit sandpaper for hardwoods using the ETS EC 150/5, and then finish up with the 120 grit sandpaper? I've never sanded white oak with anything. Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work.

Hi Spencer,do you always place the jambmaster on the barrel hinge side?

You could probably use the rafter hook off the framing nailer

Obviously, it doesn't make a difference but what about the taper of the trim left to RT. In theory, you raise the trim up in the air at the point of the blade. So you have a slight uphill left Rt and tilt front to back?

Do you ever use 15ga nails for casing?

Saw this video earlier and followed your lead on the 5/32 Round Over bit, and I'm really glad I did. Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder

Thanks

Definitely great trade secret. I’m thinking of doing this to my 16ga. Would it be as effective?

Thats good but how would you do it to open the door outwards so the slats don't hit and stop the door from opening

Thank you.. Great video, I've learned something hear today from you ...A material list and sizes would be great to know. Also do you have a video of building this on a staircase wall w/ a raised panel insert. Thank you. Lou

Im having a hard time finding that inside bead molding. Does anyone have any info on it?

I enjoyed your video. I have been contemplating doing a very similar detail with the mortises at floor rail. My balusters are 1" solid stock turned on a diamond rather than square to the floor rail. My railing is 25lb. railroad. Which will the balusters will be welded to the bottom of the rail. I would like your take on this plan. Thanks Casey

Thank You for sharing your knowledge and experience!!! Priceless…. Blessings to you!!!

What is the wing setup you have with your miter saw

Very informative. Thank you for the content sir.

Such great tips! Re mortising treads: I found it very difficult to line up the ½" mortiser chisel perfectly on the ½" hole. I switched to a 7/16 forstner bit which enabled me to look down through the top of the mortise chisel and align it perfectly centered. I then cleaned up the mortise with a "pig sticker" mortise chisel. I also bought the mortiser chisel through your link and it needed quite a lot of honing (of the flat sides) to get it sharp, once I did that it was a lot easier to mortise my oak treads. Thanks again for all your great videos!

Dewalt is for the serious DIYer and Milwaukee is for professional tradesman. Personally I use dewalt and home and Milwaukee on the job. I install water utilities so I am rough on stuff with water mud ice etc. and Milwaukee always gets the job done. But at home where I’m not working g as hard dewalt does me just fine

What's the preferred blocking location for 6-8 doors? I do behind bottom hinge, below middle and then above and below top hinge. Preference?

Just watched this and never knew it, but found out the hard way about center pivot point changing when using an auxiliary fence.

I remodeled my bathroom and used shiplap around the new tub surround instead of drywall. Saved me a bunch if time and looks great

What’s the specific hardware you used from Lowe’s to make the drawer latches and what did you use to cut it down? I’m looking at doing the same type of thing on my new van build out that was significantly inspired by your video! Thank you.

I learn more from this channel than any other. I can’t believe I get these tips for free.

So is there something in the shelf itself that the rod goes into? Or it just goes in with the PL in general area.? Thx for all the vids!! Love em all and learn a ton!

This is so helpful to me. I’m having this exact problem. What do you do if the jamb is proud at the top and not the bottom of the window frame?

This was an incredibly thorough lesson on how to build beautiful beams. I watched it because I want to add beams to my basement family room. Your attention to detail is amazing, and your step-by-step instructions, make me feel like I can do this. Beautiful work, and an excellent lesson! Thanks for the inspiration!❤

I put brad nails because the contractor I work for is to cheap. You get what you pay for, remember that contractors 🥱🥴

Hi Spencer,you’re a top,top carpenter and I have learned a lot ,and that’s just the way you explain things.much appreciated 👍

Really enjoy your videos! Very talented.

I love this. "A strong 32nd of an inch."

Bro what's the name of those cock and ball clamps 😂😂😂 4:27

I'm also the painter😂😂😂

Was looking for details on the outfield support tallies L & R with your stop block assembly looks intriguing

Quality craftsman work . Little adjustments go a long ways .

Hey, put a link to Wiha metric nut drivers. I want you to get commission. I Just put SAE nut driver in my cart.

It’s a parting bead, I’ve never heard bullet trim

No video of staining?

Great job man, I really love it.

Some excellent tips in here. Thank you. I’m sure you cut multiple pieces while the saw it’s in each direction rather than moving the saw back and forth for every cut.

Too bad the finish couldn’t be applied before the back panel was installed must be a nightmare for the painter

10:00 it's better to have a harder wood for the tread jig because soft pine dive boards when you push down and messes up the precision of the duplication - just a thought :)

Question on Calibration. I have this exact saw and my issue is, the saw doesn’t hold true on a 40+ degree bevel when sliding. Around halfway to full stop on the slide the saw is slightly out of square to the fence. Any other bevels less than 40 degrees everything is true and square. Is there a fix/adjustment for this?

Just what I needed. Thank you