If you haven't had another go at soldering the rails, theres a good chance this is a nickel iron alloy of some kind, akin to low grade stainless steel which will be magnetic, sanding, degreasing and a lot of heat quickly using a short blunt tip along with an aggressive flux and a flux free solder containing some silver (rosin will interfere with the acid in your aggressive flux) This will be the best chance you have. 60/40 tin/lead will do in a pinch too, get in and get out before the heat spreads. Placing the track on a metal or glass surface to dissipate the heat from the plastic to stop it melting will help too. Alternatively you could look into "wire glue" a conductive glue that would suit this application especially if you have a Dremel style tool to make the rail joints overlap instead of butt together. Either way its fiddly work and I wish you the best!

Nice, informative video - looking forward to see your progress!

I’ll keep coming back to see this develop. It’s all very interesting 😊

Cant wait till next vid

Great idea with the plastic joiners.

Hi Jonathan! This T gauge stuff looks so fiddly! Pretty sure I'd need a microscope to see it properly, never mind a magnifying glass! It's an interesting project though, and I look forward to seeing how it develops! With soldering the track, and melting sleepers, I had a similar problem with my N gauge sleepers when trying to solder to the bottom of the rail! I now cut the webbing between the sleepers adjacent to where I want to solder and push the sleepers apart to give me space to get the solder tip in! I then push the sleepers back into position once I've got the wires attached! Not sure if you could employ a similar strategy with T gauge! More heat is always better so you're not in contact with the rail for too long, and I've found flux a must to get solder to adhere to the rails! You could also try adding a crocodile clip or two to the rails to act as heat sinks! Good luck! All the best, Ian.

ok that idea is pretty good. cant believe i never thought of this technique for laying flextrack withthe 100s of meters i laid on my own N scale layout

Great video! 👍🏻 Looking forward to see the progress!

Oh my got its adorable I must have it.

Really interesting Jonathan. Didn't know you could get T gauge flexi track. Cheers Euan

@ 4:59 - I would suggest you use liquid solder flux when soldering a hard rail that can wick away the heat. Lead/Tin solders need around 280C, lead-free around 320-340C. If you can get it, use a fine wire gauge Lead/Tin/Silver solder (expensive) as this will give the best results, but don't rely on the flux in the solder wire on it's own.

Hi Jonathan, try using a solder that contains lead because it has a much lower melting point. The lead free stuff I have given up using because as you found the heat required does to much damage.

Interesting stuff. I started Z scale model railroading as a pass-time during Covid lockdown. The Z scale size appealed, especially the ability to make a good size layout in a small space. However I found train running to be unreliable and hence a little frustrating. Plus I liked the idea of DCC, So I moved up to N. I soon realised that the reliability of running Z was my poor experience in track planning and laying and I return to it every now and then. I'm tempted to purchase a T gauge starter kit. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Thanks for sharing.

How would it be rather than soldering have mini bolt coming up through the base board and touching the underside of each piece of track. No need for a soldering iron.

Are you planning on modelling the sea?

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I doubt it is simply stainless steel as this would be a bad conductor and not magnetic.