Nice! Sometimes it does take some trouble shooting and trial/error to figure things out. There are a lot of people that give up out of desperation but those that do not are rewarded with knowledge and pride. Thanks for sharing!

i am facing exactly the same thing that you have just mentioned. now my bike shows error 33 and that is faulty ignition coil. getting it replaced now.

Nice... I'm gonna do the same to mine

Did your engine run rich cause I have 4 carburetors and it's doing exactly that knocking bad idling stalling was barely able to get it home, I tested coil caps and reading we're not even close to spec so I'm know waiting for all 4 new coils and 4 new plugs to come in and see if that works by the sounds of it probably will

Same story here, I thought my engine was damaged from bad fuel until I saw videos of other inline 4 bikes with bad ignition coil

I know right, I was able to drive it home. I already ordered it. I’ll make a video of that adventure..

Thanks for sharing this comment on how to check!

Thanks for troubleshooting your own bike! Start at the very basic power distribution for the bike. How’s the battery? If it’s two years old or more I would replace it. How’s your rectifier/regulator, bench test it and see what you got. If those are in good working order then I would go to the plugs and coils. Honda coils are tough and last for thousands of miles and use without giving you issues. I replaced mine with some Amazon brand but one failed on me like almost immediately so I reinstalled some Denso coils and good to go. Plugs are good to change every now and then. Fresh plugs gives a better response for my bike.

@@StylishGreaseMonkey hi don’t mean to hijack your reply I have an 06 1000rr with 75k miles one owner. Just started getting small misfire at 2-3k rpm. New plugs a couple months ago. Coils?

@@foxwood67 How’s your battery and ground? I would recommend to start there first. The regulator/rectifier can also go bad on these things and cause the fuel and ignition systems to go bad. It’s easy to bench test those first before getting to the coils. If you decide to change the coils, go for OEM. I learned my lesson with buying cheap products only to fail on me within months and I’m back tearing up the front again. Hope this helps…

@@StylishGreaseMonkey great advice I appreciate it Battery is less than 6 months old lith ion. Starts easy ( I’ll check ground) Stator and rectifier replaced 6 or more years ago( wasn’t charging used aftermarket products Mikes company or something so I’ll test these. Coil sticks are original but I’ll search service manual for test spec Thanks 🙏 👍👍

@@foxwood67 Good luck. I wish you’re close by so I can assist. Let me know what you found!

Be patient and things will sort itself out…

Just keep on trouble shooting. Also read my previous comments for I really encourage a few important steps that will help.

I ended up changing the coils and plugs and made it ride much better but I still had a stumble at idle so I continued to troubleshoot and found the rectifier going. That fixed all my issues. Oh yeah, the bike actually powered off for a split second while I was getting on it. Scary!!

@@StylishGreaseMonkey brilliant thank you 🙏

Sorry it took me awhile to respond. I took a break from YT. Hope you figured it out.

James, don’t rule out the regulator/rectifier since it does go bad on the 03/04. Also, the batteries on these things last but a year (maybe a little bit). I replaced all of that when I did the coils and plugs and it has been running good. Unfortunately I sold my CBR600RR a few weeks ago in preparation for moving. I’ll have vids of my Harleys coming up. Thanks!

Exact same thing happened me this morning. Thanks for posting

Yes, that was it. There’s also it shutting down while going 100 kmh and coming back on. I recommend to check your ground and wiring condition. Battery health next and replace it if it’s been at least 2 years. Also check your rectifier before you even change coils and plugs.

@@StylishGreaseMonkey new rectifier new battery new plugs. My bike 2003. Im experience is, as it is cold it doesnt sputter but if i drive for a while the more it gets hotter the harder it to go from red light. Especialy if its uphill a little bit. I need to give more throttle to make it go then after 3000 i need to put throttle back cause it jumps as it passes 3000 and its like rocket.

@@matkopuhalovic8762 are the coils good? Try to check the ignition wires or the ignition itself. That has been known to go bad for the 03-04. Sorry I can only recommend. I wish I’m over there so I can take a look. The injectors may be clogged also… there’s a lot of things.

You figure it out? I’m having this exact issue on my 05 cbr1000. After ripping on the highway and going back to city roads it began bogging low in the low rpms

​@@onev9064maybe you need to clean your throttle body

Also check ground and your rectifier! Good luck!

Hey..my 2002 CBR954RR is acting strange on top end...it will start easily, engine sounds a little odd (not like it usually does) but runs okay up to around 6k rpm 75-80mph, but if i try to accelerate to pass at higher speeds/rpms, it just stutters and vibrates and feels like it has no power. I'll assume it may be a bad coil or coils. Going to look online now for some coil prices.

@@dangerously72 It could be but please take a look at the easy and cheap things first before you decide to throw parts at it. How’s your charging systems? I have seen rectifier failure as one of the culprit at higher RPMs. A quick bench test will do it good. Negative connections and a good battery is another thing to check. But if you haven’t change the original plugs and coil then this may also be an ideal time to do that. Good luck brother and stick with OEM or Denso products.

@@StylishGreaseMonkey I've got new NGK plugs and the charging system seems to be working fine. Lithium Battery is in good condition. Bike starts easily, idles fine, but just won't pull under hard acceleration like it use to. I pulled the plugs out today....the #1 cylinder spark plug was quite black(rich) like it's not getting good fire. #2 plug was a lil dark(Rich) but 3 and 4 cylinder spark plugs looked very clean.

@@dangerously72 first thing id check if i were you would be fuel pressure regulator, take the vaccum line off, turn bike on to right before start n see if it leaks

Please read the replies I have posted here on some the questions asked about this issue. I want to point out to start with a healthy battery and a well working regulator before you proceed with troubleshooting the coil and ignition system. I’ve fixed a few more bikes with the same symptoms by making sure that the battery is healthy or new and the regulator is doing its job. Thanks.

Sorry about your bike. It looks like you have replaced the suspect parts. I like to start with the free things first and go from there. Ground, wires, and clean sensors (MAP, IDC, etc). After that, I start with a brand new battery especially if the battery has been around for a year or two (even connected to a tender). The regulator on the 03-04 goes bad yea so it is good insurance to replace it. Look, sorry if I’m telling you what you already know and have done but I’m case you missed something. I agree that your coils and plugs are next. Troubleshooting can be frustrating but be patient. It took me three weeks to fix my no-start Harley and come to find out that the brand new fuel pump I just installed was bad out of the box. Oh, check your fuel tank for dirty fuel and also your vacuum lines going in to your engine. Good luck and let me know.

I should answer your first question, the bike sputtered for awhile and would die out in traffic and sometimes while I’m at highway speed. It all went back to normal once I replaced the coils, plugs, rectifier, and battery.

@@StylishGreaseMonkey i accidentally posted from my work account. Battery is under a year old lithium shorai and it cranks the bike super hard so I highly doubt it's causing an issue. I also have an upgraded reg/rectifier tied straight into the battery because the stock input plug on these bikes is trash and doesn't allow enough current to flow to the battery to charge efficiently. Everything was charging perfectly before it went down. Just to make sure I'll try to use my brother's battery from his Kawasaki 636 though. I checked the spark yesterday on one coil before I stopped trying for the day, had clear visible spark during cranking. I'll test the rest today but I think they'll be good. If that checks out I'll pull the plugs and visually make sure they are firing fuel. I did a compression test and one cylinder was 20psi under spec at 158 psi. The other 3 cylinders tested good at 178psi. Hoping i don't need a new engine or something. Also when you pulled your plugs was there oil on the tips? All of my plugs have oil on the threads and it looks like it has oil in the combustion chamber hmm.

@@clutchboi4038 I’m suspicious of batteries and rectifiers on Hondas due to the fact that I’ve had a few issues with them. The charging system, including the stator, have been excellent. However, the rectifier and the battery work in tandem to distribute the load after the crank. The fuel injectors pull a lot of amperage from this and a slight dip causes them to act up. The intermittent idle that stuck around after I changed my coils and plugs were due to a bad rectifier. I changed the battery since that’s already a suspect as well. I’m not suggesting that yours is bad. I’m just sharing what I’ve experienced with mine. As far as the plugs, it is normal to see oil on the threads if your bike’s gaskets have not been changed for awhile. I rode my bike on short distances for work and that’s another reason for carbon build up. It will seem you have oil and fuel seeping in (which it will) but as long as it is not dripping wet. If it is then you did the right thing by doing a compression test. One cylinder off is not an alarm though. Besides it is not way off in my opinion and more like an indication of carbon build up in the exhaust ports vice a leak. Hondas make some pretty impressive machines and you’ll have to do something drastic to kill it. Have you traced the wiring? I have also experienced loose wiring from the handle bar controls that caused issues. The wiring from the ignition are known to go bad from time to time. A ground somewhere may cause issues. Good luck brother. If you decide to take it to a dealer or a mechanic, they will do the same thing you have done or doing and charge you per hour for the work. Be patient because you will find it, or just buy another CBR since they are plentiful nowadays.

Okay sorry, I misunderstood your compression test results. 20 under specs can be a sign of leakage. It could be your cylinders or the valves. If you go back and recheck, spray a little bit of motor oil before you do and see if that increases pressure. If it doesn’t then your valves has a leak. Don’t jump into conclusions that your engine is trashed. I would go and talk to a good engine builder. There are ways to temporarily seal leaks on these things or adjust the valves affected.

I found other things wrong but I highly suspect that the rectifier went bad. Do check the charging system also before the ignition system. Honda coils rarely goes bad but if it’s the original and with high miles it could be possible.

Sorry for the late reply, I took a long break from YT. I hope your bike is fixed!

Could be but go through your electrical connections and negative frame connections first. Also make sure you have a fresh battery. Good luck, be patient!

I recommend to take trouble shooting steps that will cost you nothing first. I wrote a long response with this similar question below. Your situation may be different and it may just be other things like ground, open wire, dead or going battery, or the rectifier. Check out the easy stuff first before throwing money into your bike. Thanks.

@@StylishGreaseMonkey First of all, thank you for your kind reply even though it is an old post 🥰 I ran some tests. First, I measured the exhaust manifold temperature for each cylinder with a laser thermometer. As a result, there was definitely no ignition on cylinder No.4. Second, I swapped the coils of cylinder No.3 and cylinder No.4 to determine if the problem was the coil or the plug. As a result, cylinder 4 still did not fire. Now, there are three remaining problems: 1. Spark plug problem or 2. Main wiring harness problem. 3. Etc (BAT or ..) Case 2 is too expensive, so I ordered a new iridium plug, hoping for case 1. (The exchange time has arrived anyway) If you have any other opinions of yours, please kindly share. Thanks again for your comments.

@@BulgomVika I’m always glad to help fellow bikers so I appreciate you! Great test that I would have done myself. Please don’t forget to make sure that you have a healthy battery and good connections. It was rare to see the actual wiring harness go bad on Honda motorcycles unless someone else had messed with it before. I recommend that if you think that the harness is suspect to focus on exposed wiring connections. For example, the ignition tumbler area and wiring around the neck area of the bike. Rain water and condensation can get to these areas easily. From personal experience, I have ridden my bike on pouring rain many times and nothing happened. It looks like you may have pinpointed the problem by switching the coils. There is a high probability that the particular coil has failed. Densio coils last a long time but it will eventually give up. I have personally like to change all of the coils and plugs at the same time so that they all work good together. Even though the others are working now, it’s a matter of time that the others will fail soon. These are expensive parts but even if that’s not what’s wrong with it you can be rest assured that your bike will run much better. I wish you luck and be patient. I work on all my cars and bikes. I love the challenges of figuring out complex problems and the satisfaction of gaining experience and knowledge. I love to share those experiences here as well as learn new things from people. Please keep us updated when you find the solution.

Sure did. I changed the coils and plugs. I also changed the battery and rectifier and problem solved!

@@StylishGreaseMonkey thanks pretty helpful

No vibration but erratic idle. I fixed this bike awhile back. I also left Okinawa Japan so I had to sell her to another good owner. ☺️

I am 95 percent certain it is one of the coils. I ordered four as well as four spark plugs. I’ve had this issue on another vehicle before (BMW and Honda) and it was. I’ll let you know next week if it is. I filmed the first part but now I’m waiting for the parts to come in. It’s difficult to get to them so I want to change it all at once since I’ve had to drop the radiator just to get to it. Thanks!

@@StylishGreaseMonkey similar thing to me as well!

Guys, I got it done and posting a video of it in about an hour from now. I replaced four ignition coils and four spark plugs and she drives like new again. Much more crisp since fuel is getting burnt better now. Enjoy!

@@StylishGreaseMonkey The video isnt really as clear, id like to ask you.. was the bike stuttering alot in low rpm? mine is perfectly fine in higher rpm but when im in traffic it just jerks alot

Ben ST2 Yes, that was my exact issue. I was fine at higher RPMs and idled rough and even died a couple of times. I couldn’t let out the clutch without dying and getting out of first gear at take off would make it surge. Like there’s a miss and a surge.

Yes, and even when I gave it gas it didn’t rev up like it used to. I thought it was fuel at first. I would highly recommend that if your bike is doing this to check your battery and rectifier first. The coil and spark plug work is a lot and need to be reserved for the next trouble shooting step.

@@StylishGreaseMonkey tested the batter with a multimeter, came back 12v. Good charge? I assume. I also changed my fuel pump. My issue on my 04 GSX-R600 was it bogged out on me @9k initially. Ordered a new one and still, maybe even worse, performance!! Went back checked my fuses and boom, blown fuel fuse!! Changed it. Had a spare. Went on to pull out the battery and test the regulator (fuel) , a little black box, came out good. After all this reassembled the bike took it for a spin still poor performance. So, I as a nut, put back in the old pump, and surprisingly got up to 124 @13k rpm in 3 I believe. But no power after that ;) it’s like it’s trying to climb MT. Everest or something, the feeling. I’m stuck!! Any other recommendations?? Also should I check my TPS? If so how? thank you - (in a rush , sorry for the typing.)

@@nissan.baby4208 Hi, sorry to hear that about your bike and for the long ass answer below. The gremlins show up once in a while and one thing I've learned is to be patient I tell ya! The rectifier/regulator distributes power throughout the bike (I'm sure you already know this so pardon if I'm repeating myself). Most of my issues stemmed from this little thing not sending enough voltage to the needy fuel pump and the computer. After this incident on the freeway in which the bike cutoff at around 11k RPM briefly made me think of the fuel pump at first, I decided to change the ignition system based on my last issue with another bike. I recently took it apart again and put back the factory coils since I went ahead and bought a rectifier and a new battery. The bike ran better after the coil and plug change but would have this intermittent idle as if there's a clog somewhere. I was selling the bike and the buyer actually took it home and called me saying that the bike shut down on him twice on the way home. I took it back because I'm not the one to sell a POS. Anyway, after the OEM coils went back in, it was still bogging and have this annoying idle. After I changed the rectifier and the battery, the problem was solved and it ran fine and still running fine. I wouldn't trust the battery reading (running or not). Batteries are cheap and they only last about a year and a half depending on driving conditions. Cheap/free things to take a look at and you may very well have - loose ground, loose battery post, open wires, loose wires, vacuum leaks. You can check the TPS visually to see if it has been replaced or moved (the white or yellow dot should be there). You also can check the TPS's OHMs resistance but you have to take it off and bench test it. If this is the original TPS, I wouldn't mess with it. They rarely go bad in my opinion. What about the MAP sensor? There was a vacuum line attached to mine so you can check that out if it's cracked. Mine was closed so I couldn't clean any carbon build-up if there was. Sorry that I don't have a straightaway answer since this is a trouble shooting maze. All you can do is be patient and keep on troubleshooting starting with the free and cheap stuff. I really think it is the rectifier. Mine checked out fine on the bench test but was hit or miss whenever the bike is on and causing misfires. Foot stomper, you have to have a healthy battery for all of these tests.

@@StylishGreaseMonkey quite honestly your answer is very , very helpful. I never really thought about the battery being bad deeming I’ve had it for 2 years:( I will start from the bottom and that battery. Looks like I’ll be having a long weekend!! Thank you again so much !! If i can find the problem I’ll let you know . Thank you Again!! 👍

@@StylishGreaseMonkey Also I had a blown fuse (fuel) Loe I mentioned last, do you think that could be because of the rectifyer/ regulatior? Or something else ??

One of them and unfortunately something that a pain in the behind to get to and might as well change your coils while at it.

Yes, actually the bike died for like a split second at wide open. Scared the crap out of me. It started back up on its own.