look out, you are going to get the hate comments now. tatro

I love every single thing you just wrote, sportsterini.

Hmmm tatro's mention of hate comments seems to indicate there is a devil's advocate type point to be made. Ig it's not really a "farm repair" it's the right way to do it. He didn't use old parts, he just keeps lots of new ones around (long enough to get corrosion) Maybe the Italian tune up perspective (some bikes seem to live the rev's) I too have had a "junker", put 10,000 on her in under a year when I was going to school. I do repairs and maintenance when I can afford to or when it's needed. I have some diy parts like the fork holder and have a specilty high flow exhaust hole installed by a highway guard rail. So obviously my streamlined master caretaking of her will far outlast yours. (The mod was free too, came with a cast and some pain meds, but the cast wouldn't fit under the shifter so I had to kick back at it with my heel so I could ride [obviously wasn't going to wait until I could walk to ride]) Let's see, I can't look at a comment and type so I'm trying to remember what might provoke debate............ Idk,ig the above is the best I've got .......... Shade tree 4 lyfe

Reread comment, I'm afraid I am too similar too you to find flaw with your logic (except for jokingly, as above) I guess we need some RUBers or ATGAT guys who say "you can't safely ride for any length of time for under 10k, my mechanic told me at my last routine oil change"

Brian Lock, in a way i agree with you, old school mechs are the bizz, i know, i am one! You muat remember that this technknonlgy...techno, building of motorcycles did not have air guns and presses. I built my shovel using what i have in the shed, its the same techn... same as they build the early Nortons,, the bottom end is the same. He is a bit brutal my friend.

After 2 year posting he did not replied back to you thank you that guy is a terrible mechanic

@@efrainguzman6143 how is her a terrible mechanic for not responding to a comment? Lol

@Openg30. Is Dudley's still around?

Eric Mendoza WTF.!!!! I was just thinking that EXACT thing while watching (precomment reading), then read the first comment after the video. Laughed that I wasn’t the ONLY nutcase thinking this......

good to hear, that is how it should be. no one cares about your stuff more than you do. tatro

instablaster...

i do what i can. tatro

oh crap, now they are going to want a free hanky too. tatro

i am going to be getting to mine and freds panheads later this year i hope. i like to use as many harley parts as possible so that it is still a harley. half i rework to do what i want and pick the hotrod parts i want to get the power i want. see my 1942 wla stroker bike as an example. 2nd motor and bike i built that i finished just out of high school. build it the way you want and have fun with it. freds 1949 panhead we are going to do a mild stroker but all stock on the outside. my 1957 panhead, about the same but with more stroke and power. my 1947 panhead, more power yet with custom big bore cylinders and major head work. std heads? 97ci minimum and around 110ci on the high side. and for the big panhead, my softail 1957 panhead looking bike will be will over 130ci. might need some extra passing power. screw twin cams. tatro

yes that is all true and not very many people know this. sometimes you have to do things wrong for other reasons. clearance issues and being lazy are two of them. tatro

@@TatroMachine Hey, Thats a MEXICAN SPEED WRENCH!

Tatro is using the adjustable wrench correctly, assuming it's being tightened every time it's placed over the nut :). The moment (leverage), applied by the nut to the movable jaw is LESS than that applied to the fixed jaw because the contact point between the nut and the movable jaw is CLOSER to the body of the wrench than the contact point between the nut and the fixed jaw. The orientation of an adjustable wrench only matters in high-torque situations and only for purposes of preventing breakage of the weaker movable jaw. It helps to insert the nut as deep into the jaws as possible for the same reason. Tightening the wrench every time it's placed over the hex is the only key to maintaining grip -- orientation of the wrench makes no difference.

all good things will outlive us. that is the difference from book smart and work smart. one you get a piece of paper on the wall and the other you have to buy toilet paper for. tatro

another viewer that actually watched what i was teaching in the video. it helps to see what happens when things are not done correctly so that you know what matters when it comes time to make decisions on what you are doing. tatro

doesn't just piss off everyone else. tatro

not right, but done. tatro

he was going to do that anyway because i rebuilt the topend before. at least now it will last for awhile. tatro

@@TatroMachine Smart man tatro...

now you are in trouble too. here comes the haters. tatro

You and me both. Damn.

Bill Carp d

Zoom too close

the complete motor is junk but being a harle it still will run and get you down the road. the good old days are still here and kicking. we can just about rebuild anything and because it was made to last, not toss it when crap happens. tatro

Yeah you're correct on both counts. I had a Sportster come in, customer complained of a slipping clutch and constant 10V at battery running. Sprocket shaft splines had sheared off and the primary drive just spins freely from sprocket shaft.

its a common problem. that is why i tighten my nuts down way more then harley specs. tatro

...Well.... my '72 Sporty Service Manual says draw up the sprocket/pinion shaft nuts to 250 foot Pounds.....minimum....they must be 'very tight'....... I am still amazed the amount of torque those few threads could hold.....

no way you can torque the mainshaft nuts that much on a sportster. as i recall it is more in the 125-150 area. i push them to around 175 and pull threads all the time. some will hit 200 but that is it on stock parts. s&s or jims can go higher but 250 is pushing it hard. 200-225 is more like it on those. crankpin nuts can go 250 but that is about it on stock nuts and flywheels. s&s parts can get you to 400 but they don't like much more then that with the thin sportster nuts. bigtwin nuts can go 500 because they are thicker, more threads. tatro

all true except for the good old days. every day is a good old day. tatro

at least someone gets the point. do what you can do and understand what you have to send out so that you don't get screwed. tatro

crooks are everywhere. sorry to hear about your bike. tatro

Mike I know it's been 3 years but nobody else seems to have had to balls to tell you; he doesn't care about your bunched panties on thrown around bearings. They're corroded bearings going into a junk case for a crappy customer. Not to mention he's put enough of these together he could throw whatever he wants, and torque things to the exact ugga dugga That being said I hope you have a good day 😁 Good God!

He's an ass clown that does it for the camera.

He's burning off disgust with his life. He probably needs a drink.

then don't do it. it does work and it savers bad parts. especially ones that can not be easily replace like most od and racing harley parts. these tricks have been proven on all my race bikes for many years and i have the records and championships to prove it. tatro

It works and saves time and money! I learned that as a heavy mechanic 20+ yrs ago. It is a common, proven method. Man knows what he is doing and gets paid to do it just like me.

the complete lower end was and is junk but at least now it will last for a few thousand miles before it craps out. this was a freebee job just so the new owner would not be completely screwed on the deal. you would be surprised how long crappy jobs like this will last. he was going to put it together with all the junk parts as it came apart. it will work now. tatro

Well I can tell you that for me, with nearly 40 years in the auto industry and a qualified technician who has owned many garages....if a customer ever walked in with a box of bits and wanted me to do such work....I would have told him no and to take it else where, such a repair is a waste of everyone's time.

whether i did my fix or not the motor was going back together. i just did what it takes to get a year or two out of the motor. if my good customer was not going to put it together for his customer i would have told him to stick it too. at least this way the new owner will get some use out of the bike. tatro

Unless of course that bearing fails while the new owner is mid corner then crashes and dies. Maybe not the most likely outcome but it definitely IS a possibility. Getting paid or not should not be reason enough to risk someone else's life. A "good" customer would never ask you to put it back together so he could screw someone else. This is just bad form magnified by bad judgment. This engine should not have been put back together without proper repair, period. "We'll put the BAD part on top." What part of that is ok to you? Tell yourself whatever you need to so you can sleep at night but to honest mechanics this is completely unacceptable to do. Now if it was on your PERSONAL bike and you didn't carry a passenger then whatever, you know the risk you are taking. But putting this together like this knowing it will be sold to someone without telling them is just wrong and should be illegal.

I get the bandaid race night repair suggestion but not the "don't do this but watch me do it to someone else." Is this a street bike or a race only bike? In my 24 plus years of working on cycles I've made some questionable repairs but I've never cobbled something together to sell or give to someone else without them knowing.

only if you were std and wanted to fix cases again. oh, they had to do it for free like i did. tatro

one point is most times those bearing support hubs are finish ground once installed and in many cases IF you can find a supplier are a hard to find and the time involved to replace it your as well off to find a donor motor to snag the whole case off , i havent seen one of the replacement bearing hubs in decades. but like he said it was a jury rig fix .. to do it proper would have been some massive machining and mechanic time and depends where you are can be anywhere from a cheap shop of $40 an hour to upwards of $100 to have any machining done if any was required. but basically the guy that built it originally and never put spacer in needs a size 14 boot up his arse and his tools taken away

your crank is fine. you just need a right side gen case and match it to your alternator shovel or evo case. go look at my playlist, 1957 80 97 harley panhead flst softail build. tatro

Tatro Machine ... thanks for your time and info, much appreciated

motoclonk dribblehead you really need to make a video. So I could learn from you. You e Got plenty of opinion so show me how its done

these are learning videos. this video just shows you what happens when you put the motor together wrong and one way of doing a quick fix to get it running again. yes you better be saving your money up because this motor is going to need some work down the road. at least you will have some time to prepare for it. the big thing to learn here is what not to do and what to do if you have too. not everyone can just go out and buy another motor or fix it correctly right off the bat. tatro

@@TatroMachine reading this comment, we come from the same people. People might not get it, but it doesn't matter. Those who need to will.

No, he doesn't have any illusion that it'll run a long time. It's a temporary fix and everyone Including him and the customer knows. It's more than the customer would pay for.

same deal but i use the higher temp sleeve retainer loctite. tatro

"Microwave generation": that is a great description, very apt!

There not mechanics they are parts replacers

that is why i always say the last thing worked on was the last thing screwed up when i buy something. tatro

This exists in very many trades, not only Motorcycles. The "rattle" will let the rider & his buddies know the engine is kind of tired. It's worse in the used Auto markets, & rental housing; Google "Zipper Cars" $$$$ ripoffs ..death traps..

Rain Coast just another half case and some bearings big deal just f****** fix it right I would tell the owner that Hurley I only fix it right that's all I do

I heard of a similar thing, though I think he covered the open cylinders inside. I have seen used car dealers power wash all the $#!+ off the engine, paint it, & roll back or replace the odometer out of a low KM wreck. I was hosed once (20 yrs ago last month) by a crooked dealer who used gun tape & roof tar to hide FRAME HOLES, & I was fooled, until 1 month after, when the cab mount (F-150 Supercab) fell off going over a bump. I was angry at being hosed by the guy (both fuel tanks were leaking, & the brakes were shot..drums were bell-mouthed, calipers seized, & I was under employed at the time. I .."forgave the guy" & swallowed the bills to fix the thing, as he was an acquaintance of an uncle, ( never again, no next times) I crawl in mud & snow to check MYSELF before I sign anything. Yes he sold it "Certified" not "AS IS" so his licence would have become toilet paper. He had a heart attack & died 7 yrs after. This one will curl your hair; A friend of my dad bought a b/n Olds Cutlass (last RWD edition), & took it regularly to "his guy" a "Joes Garage" type not Meinike or the Dealer. "Every 3 months" kind of thing. Oil change, etc etc. This went on several years, then he was going out of Province to visit relatives, & service time was due, so ..wherever he went, the Mechanic came out to the waiting room "upset".. WHY...??!! Why are you driving an unsafe, & horribly un-maintained Auto, may I ask?! ..speechless, the Tech told him his engine had only "goop" for Oil, & ALL Ball Joints were "shot" along with his tie-rod ends. for X-many YEARS buddy's "regular mechanic" was HOSING HIM... (he did not perform ANY work whatsoever it turned out, only put it on the hoist for a while, then let it down & charge buddy for the "work" & it might have cost him his life on the Trans=Canada Highway.. pop a ball joint going 100+.... My current vehicle is an ex City Of Toronto van. They may have drove the h out of it I'm not sure, but the sub frames are in immaculate cond from being washed ultra regularly. I looked at 12 dozen vans advertised as "LIKE NEW" & crawled under to find holes. Every last one except this one.

Last used bike I bought was a mess.

cosgrove notts thats for sure....funny thing is I guarantee you not one of them is a rider nor even knows how to replace the new parts , has to take it to a guy like this to undo a bolt.lmfao.

and the dumbass missed the whole point of the video as i stated in it. if i cared about what people think i would not make any videos. tatro

Tatro Machine: I believe it. Now, I know why the Romans had a saying: CAVEAT EMPTOR- "Let the Buyer Beware". Some persons have no personal integrity. Keep up the good work exposing guys like this and thanks for the video.

@@tomcata1467 here you are trolling here again. You hate Harley's . Anyone ever watched your video,s now's that. Remember all the Harley dealerships you have been kicked out of, for filming them then badmouthing Harley's once out of their business. I know tatro,s video is a couple of years old but had to post anyway just to let him know what a troll you really are. You shouldn't post on these videos,they are way over your head. Now,,, be a nice little troll and put the camera down.

now that is what my videos are for. you can see how to do things yourself and i try to pass on why and how you fix a problem when it comes up. as for the videos. i can not video and work at one time so who ever has time to work the camera gets a chance at it. most have no training so you get what you get. i still think that is better then a tripod shot. volunteers are recome. tatro

life is an unknown. i have seen more than one supposably proper rebuilt motor last less than a hundred miles. i would guess 5-10k but i have seen pure junk motors last over 5 years of hard riding. you never know. tatro

just another dumbass that has nothing to say. tatro

not my job, the customer is going to do the final assembly. i am only doing the machining and clearancing. tatro

Needed temporary assembly for locktite to set in place. We heard the customer acknowledge that he would be splitting the case again later.

it was, but it works anyway. thats the trick in knowing what you are doing. tatro

not another one. tatro

don't know much about buells. if the motor looks like a sportster you are ok but if not you are screwed. tatro

after 17 years in one building i would hope i would have my shop layed out so that i can get things done. tatro

not if i build them. my motors are made for me and i do all of that and way more. build the motor for the application and it will take a ton of abuse. tatro

those faulty bearings will last a very long time compared to the junk ones i took out. i even clearanced them so that they will work correctly. you should have watched more of the video. tatro

you notice that he had a drawer with more fucked up bearings, so he must do it on a regular basis.... wouldn't let him work on my lawnmover , must less my sled....

lots of noise and vibration would be a start. tatro