Haaaa I bought him a few new ones a few years ago but he never took a liking to them

Wash cycles what ? I doubt its ever been washed

Figured, from such a great informative video, on an evo, I knew there would at least 1 ass, that would comment on something that had nothing to with the content. I personally could care less what the dude is wearing, I watch, to learn. You must watch to joke. Yep your the 1 ass!!!

@@metalted6128 sorry for hurting your feelings. Jeeez

I really appreciate and enjoy your work, I am a car mechanic but the amount of knowledge that you have, it tells me that you have a genuine love for these H.D engines these 80cube evos very rarely fail but its nice to see how a bolt could possibly block a oil gallery ,this and information on the shovel bottom end as in the Timken bearing spacer these tips could save a person a lot of time and money thank you very much.

I fully agree with your statement I think that's great and I just had been engine builder

Vert du furk!!!LOL

good, that is the best way. that way you know who to blame when it breaks. tatro

oil is a good thing, the motor likes it. the assembly lube i use will stay put for many years so when it comes time to fire it up the motor will be ready to go. tatro

Claude Ranupas Im pointing out, oil flow and oil pressure are symbiotic, but pressure is only reduced by increasing the flow, or purging it. Reduction of oil volume in a BB Chevy is achieved by exploiting the oils speciffic flow resistance characteristics (viscosity ) through the mill's complete operating temperature range, and that point is without any doubt the tip of rocker arm. The pressure relief is achieved in the oil pump, (or if its loss at higher temps its worn cam bearings) through the pressure bypass galley. Not dusputing your knowledge, its obvious, you dismissed as unimportant, more details and speciffics than most mechanics ever learn. Just tossed that out there. I know there is bleedback (or not as per design intentions) at the lifter plunger, and excessive clearance between lifter body O.D. and lifter bore I.D. maybe there lies the variable. Pretty easy to measure that though, if it fit's oil spits!

good job and keep it up. tatro

oh crap, look out. tatro

blood actually floats on top of oil but mixes with water. now how do i know that. torco assembly lube. tatro

everything wears out at some point. there is nothing wrong with a good used part that has proven to work already. you can't say that for all new parts. tatro

just about and 90's evo bike with a new aftermarket big inch motor in it will be a good fast and reliable ride. tatro

sorry.. 1988 FLSTC 1340 EVO 80 ci

you only need about a 1/2" to 5/8" engagement of the screw. anymore then this and you might block the feed hole. tatro

go find the playlist. they will play in order than. tatro

both s&s and ultima have good and bad parts about them. the ignitions are good but i have had some failures this year. they were warinity and replaced. ultima stands by their parts more then s&s. tatro

they are all the same, just watch any of the bigtwin videos. tatro

another dumbass, just because they look similar does not make them the same. ketchup and tabasco sauce look similar but i would not mix them. tatro

3M weatherstrip is way too strong. Headliner spray is too. It's nothing like gaskacinch or Indian Head.

I've compared all the above and used them continuously since the 1970s on multibrand paper gaskets. I never make any assertion I've not proven in practice. I wouldn't buy the spray since it's more awkward but I end up with leftover cans from my upholsterybro. Indian Head is much older and a shellac compound (uses rosin per the MSDS, which I use to figure out what's in stuff I like!) but also works fine as we all know. 3M is the original "gorilla snot" (we're old and know this but noobs may not) due to the color and resemblance to snot when applied by tube. None of them are the least bit prone to failure when correctly applied nor is any more difficult to remove than another. Of course most gasket failures are due to poor surface prep, leaving damage and burrs and general sloppiness. Even light grease or petrolatum does a passable job on paper gaskets needing periodic removal IF the mechanic ensured the surfaces were flat first. IMO the modern fancy cover gaskets mostly exist to tolerate sloppy work paper does not. I also do vintage Britbikes and even those SOBs are reasonably oil tight given careful prep to make up for decades of distortion due to overtorque and abuse. The sealer I like the least is RTV, mostly because mongoloids overdose it and I don't like cleaning it out of lubrication systems but modern cars require it so I use it per spec on those. They all have their place. For fuel (gas or diesel) or hydraulic (not under pressure obviously) wetted joints you don't particularly want to take apart but REALLY need to seal with zero weepage aircraft fuel tank sealant is magnificent. We used to snag expired date tubes before the Air Force cared about tracking waste. I buy it from Aircraft Spruce today. The Semkit tubes are easy to mix without special tools and how to turn the impeller will be obvious. We used visegrips on the flightline because only Fuel Shop had the expensive mixer. Every mechanic should buy a kit to play with because ya won't use it often but when needed nothing else is close, like when I saved my bros (overpriced as usual) leaking John Deere fuel gauge sender rather than him getting assraped for a new assembly. The Structural troops showed me a great trick for all curing sealants and epoxies they use. After installing the part, leave a fat waste blob in the bottom of a soda can (their usual mixing pallet for small stuff) and cut it in half when cure time is up. If the blob is cured so is your workpiece.Thanks for all your useful videos!

put the cam cover on and measure it. you can see it thought the rear tappet block hole. watch the videos and you see how i do things. tatro

Tatro Machine so basically I have to tear down that side of the motor just to replace the breather gear only? Ouch. Too bad the previous owner didn't replace the plastic gear with an S&S when it was rebuilt 1000 miles ago.

that's how it goes with real harleys. tatro

i will leave it. gasgacinch works good and i have been using it for 45 years and my dad that again. i don't even use gaskets on parts of my race bikes, just gasgacinch. if you know how to work on your bike you would know how to get that cover off and use good sealer. i show how all the time. 3 bond bites hard too, all good sealers do. tatro

Why not?

most all breather oiling problems are from bad rings. plugging holes dose not fix these problems. the blow-by pressure will find a place to come out. tatro

reed

www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/ss-crankcase-reed-breather-valve-for-harley-evo-big-twin-1993-1999?gclid=Cj0KCQiAw9nUBRCTARIsAG11eicVhNVZWCVSPuyx_yljpVn7cnCYQD9cklXtvB58zqjz88Ijr2z74JMaAo8qEALw_wcB

Just seems like having one less moving part would be a good thing ? Besides that great videos, thanks for all the info

I've been running mine in my Blockhead since '08 never a problem. works great, If I slap another Evo together, yeah I'll buy one again

blakegriplingph I can’t speak specifically without comparing one to one but typically speaking the aftermarket cases has been strengthened in areas that tend to wear or break in the factory cases. Sometimes they update or improve the bearings, either sizes or types. Usually the threads are a little stronger. On a standard OEM HD case I like to stay on the low end of my torque spec so as not to pull out the threads. A lot of times the cases are built for bigger cylinders from the get go so you don’t crest weak spots by modifying something that wasn’t necessarily designed to be modified in that way. Sometimes they make changes to the liking system. Finally depending on the age of the engine being built the new cases are typically cast using newer/better techniques, equipment and technology.

blakegriplingph I don’t know that aftermarket cases are all that much better than HD OEM pieces, in some cases aftermarket is all you can get or afford. They all have their weaknesses and strong points and they will all have to be worked on at some time.

just pull the oil return line off the oil filter and run the motor until you see clean oil. you will burn 1-2 qts of oil doing this but you will clean out the complete system. tatro

john smit

plug up you nose and mouth and see how that works for you. everything needs to breath some. its called air flow and pressure differential. you are either helping it or fighting it. tatro

why is it all my other style motorcycles don't have this '' rotating air flow mover gear??? how much blow by is forced down to that cam area ??? and my last great comment is this; i am just now learning about Harley Davidson repair from you... so i have learn a lot from YOU... it has changed my life for the better. i am not afraid of Harley Davidson engines any longer like i was you make look easy to take a part and repair. it has saved me lots of $$$... i work on 30th & imperIal in san diego, Calif.... just so you know... i drive by your shop everyday. just trying to fine a reason to walk in and talk to you or buy parts for my 1990 FXRP...

your fxr has the same breather design. all harleys that have the flywheels in the oil system use this design. it is needed to get the oil out of the flywheel cavity. tatro

Jj

i like it because it works. i have not had that swelling issue with james gaskets. tatro

use them all the time on all years. tatro

no, harley used the ina caged caged bearings. i use the torrington or koyo full compliment cam bearings. they will take the abouse that harley puts out. tatro

no i don't think so. it probably needs a 1/4" longer pinion shaft and you will have a big problem with those stock small evo piston pin bushings. oh, and those short ass rods. the big problem is the pushrod alignment problem with the pushrod covers. just buy the bigass evo motor you want and make things easy on yourself. i like the 107" and 120" motors. tatro

Bad thing is... got a good deal on the cases.....and they're sitting in the garage. Guy said the tappet block/guides are offset to fix the pushrod problem. From what I'm seeing it needs to be a 5 piece crank with a 1/4 in longer pinion. After catching some of you vid.... I was hoping to be able to use a 3 piece with a longer pinion. Digging you channel. Thanks for the input

just buy the correct crank from ultima that fits. i don't remember if they use the stock or offset lifter bolcks. either way you will have to have them and the heads cut for the correct pushrod angles. the ultima website should have the instructions on what needs to be done in their tech area. they do offer the machining to do this for you. you will have to use a dealer like me to have it done. email me if you need help on any of this. tatro

The blocks I have are supposed to be offset. Probably just going to have to buy the ultima....probably less headache in it. Thanks again

use a ev13 andrews cam for max torque or a ev-27 for all around fun up to 5200 rpm. both are .500 lift. with these two cams you will need lots of gear to calm down the vibrating of this long stroke motor. you can do it with gearing or a 6-speed gear set. tatro

the newbys don't know about how my playlist work and they would still ask the same questions. tatro

a cam, carb and ignition should get the job done. tatro

Tatro Machine thanks for your time do you think ev27 a supper e cam will do it oh yea what ignition thanks again

Get a Dynatek or Ultima single fire ignition. Buy as a complete kit with coil and it will really wake the bike up.

stp is not a lubricant, its an additive for your oil. tatro

Are

look at the labels or listen. tatro

card board boxes are not as good as those thicker cardboard sales backings under that plastic vacuum wrapping. tatro

Hey Tatro what do you think of the Ultima El bruto motors particularly the 113 in how are the bottom ends on these motors in your opinion who makes the best aftermarket motors? As always thanks for your knowledge!!

A scrap sheet of polyethylene, UHMW, Teflon or a plastic kitchen cutting board work equally well.

BRIAN THOMPSON Cinderella story of a Harley engine builder....I think he’ll probably go for about .002 clearance on that bearing and ITS IN THE HOLE!

it is called a mso, manufacturer statement of origin. all states are different but not a big deal as long as you have the paper work. tatro

@@TatroMachine do the new cases come with numbers or a "MSO?" I have everything but no cases. I'm just wondering how to get this smaller motor put together for my 1999 fatboy. I want to take out my S&S 124. Put back in an 80 inch. Maybe a 96.

@@TatroMachine lol. I think we are talking in circles. I can buy these cases put everything I have for an 80 incher into them. Then have a complete motor? That's all I'm missing is the cases.

@@TatroMachine where do I get a set of these cases?

i sell everything you see me using in my videos. just email me a list of what you need and i will work up a quote for you. 80ci and 88ci are the two best sizes for the smaller motors. 88ci will require bigbore cylinders which look biger than stock and are about 3/16" shorter than stock cylinders. these are nice for the fxr bikes. tatro

only if you have your motor breather connected to your intake. i don't, so i don't have that problem. these new motors are way undered breathered. the older motors have way bigger ones for better high rpm performance. tatro

most likely he has taken care of it and it should be good for many more year. good clean oil and keeping the heat down are what makes motors have a long life. oh, don't let me ride it. tatro

one is cubic inchs and the other it cubic centimeters. tatro

not a chance, they are all geniuses in their own minds. tatro.

this is not walmart, it is a real working shop. you get what you get. and its free too. tatro

that is my thought process and is the most important part of a learning video. this crap is not staged, it is real world and that is how it is done. not showing this would make it a fake video. tatro

i am good with that. tatro

who cares, just fix it. i break crap all the time. don't you watch my videos. tatro

Right on Tatro! I meant that with all due respect. Love the way you work.

thn you can deal with the leaks. that silicone just slides off and does nothing. are you blind. tatro

i think i will pass. its amassing how my customers don't seem to care about how i do things because it works. have you ever seen how harley tecks do bikes. they only make money if they rush things together and don't care too much about the details like i do. tatro

yes i do annd use them when i need them. the fact is that you don't realy need them if you know what you are doing. tatro

@@TatroMachine lol how did I know that was coming so if I take my bike to a dealership to get worked on they don’t use a torque wrench ?they are certified and know what their doing?? That’s bullshit it has nothing to do with knowing it’s called pride and quality and doing shit the right way especially someone else’s.

and who says harley knows what they are doing. have you ever seen them not make major changes after they came out with anything. don't fool yourself, they learn as they go just like everyone else. i have landspeed records and championships because i know what i am doing. its called skill. tatro

@@TatroMachine blah blah blah that don’t mean you’re not a hack mr.torque wrench arm,maybe you got the white collars jeti mind tricked into thinking you’re so good you don’t need to torque how about a we ask ten masters what they think? Guarantee all ten will agree with me.they don’t formulate torque specs and process,anti seize for stainless and calcs.when using extensions etc etc for no reason but you keep telling yourself that 👍🏻

Think about the skill of the non torque wrench using aircraft mechanic next time you and your family fly.

maybe you should have watched more of the video and learned something. unlike a harley dealer i use other then oem parts. the case is a ultima replacement case so it is correct for the application. the gasket is correct for the 1997 cam cover. just because the case has a breather cavity does not mean that you have to use it. the crank is a 1997 and so is the cam cover so all the parts are correct for that year range parts, 1993-1999. i install an ignition that works and makes power, not the harley crap. tatro

Tatro Machine not sure how you deal with all the "experts" opinions on YT, you're stronger than me. thanks for the upload. have a great day.

Tatro Machine that's right!

for being an expert you sure don't know your ass from a hole in the ground. look closer before you start yapping. where are the breather holes if i am a dumbass? look in the mirror and you will see one. tatro