The wood data base was a revelation! And the rest was absolutely invaluable info as well! Thanks so much for a great video!

Excelent video!!! Thanks a lot for sharing!!!

Evidently, Gene hasn’t spent much time in So Cal. We’ve got tons of eucalyptus here. I’ve been told it was brought here for railroad ties and building lumber. THEN they found that eucalyptus twists as it dries so it generally is unsuitable for those uses. However, in 1980 I bought a duplex in So Cal that had a lot of beautiful natural finished euc doors and casings. It was built in the 1910s, and I don’t know how they got the wood to behave. LOL. Around here on the Central Coast of CA, eucalyptus are a real danger. Their branches can be very heavy and they can drop. Also, almost every winter after a rain some eucalyptus trees fall over blocking roads taking out fences and crushing cars passing by.

Great info! I'd like to see a session in which you illustrate the proper methods of securing furniture pieces to allow wood movement and prevent joint or panel failure. I'm particularly interested in cabinets, chest of drawers, tables -- not made from plywood.

OMG! This is fabulous! Maybe do a 3 person panel with call-in or pre-sent viewer questions?

Great Video! I loved the walk through. I sat and tried to think of an eleventh reason but couldn't come up with much.

Sound advice. Thanks

Thank you and Gene. I learned so much in this one video….It truly is one of the best I’ve ever watched regarding furniture repair….

Good humble expert man. Thank you for featuring him. Peace.

Good and informative video. In 40+ years of building furniture and 20 years as a professional repair person, i think I've seen all these at least once. I think the most egregious example of "that piece of wood should have been thrown in the trash and not in the furniture" was a top rail on a sofa. It had a 1" punky knot right in the middle of the stretch. Of course, as soon as someone put some weight on it, it snapped. Another were breadboard end tables with no allowance for wood movement, resulting in a crack you could see the floor through. One customer said, "We heard something in the middle of the night that sounded like a gunshot. When we got up in the morning, there was this 1/4" crack from one end of the table to the other." For the legs on flat-packed tables and chairs held on with threaded inserts, in failures I almost always found that the insert was put in only as far as the depth of the threaded insert, even though the hole was generally twice that deep. Removing it and setting it much deeper, where it had some compression in the wood and not splitting tension did a much better job. I recall Roy Underhill's comment of "Planes of strength and planes of weakness" regarding grain direction. Another thing is generally, wood moves twice as much tangentially (around the growth rings) as radially (from the center out). That's why on that log you showed, there are radial cracks -- the wood is moving more tangentially than radially (and since circumference is pi*diameter, i.e., proportional) something has to give. Another result is that quarter-sawn wood moves more in thickness than in width, so that can be useful to know when building things. Keep up the good work, Scott.

I really enjoyed this video, especially the clear photography of the examples you used. Thanks.

Enlightening. ,👍👌🙏Something you don't see on any. DIY channel

Enjoyed the video Scott. Thanks for putting this together with Gene. Very interesting. You take care and God bless.

Scott:what a great video. I plan to watch it again. Great information for all that are interested in wood and furniture. I took notes and will probably add to them. Thank you. Carol from California

All I can say Scott is FANTASTIC!

Well Scott you've done it again! produced a video that is unbelievably a necessity. I will stuff this into my go to library and keep watching it at every opportunity to absorb it over and over again until it becomes Rote. And a whole bunch of thanks to Gene for joining you and allowing his years of experience to be given to us "Wood hackers" or the world. I can't count the things that I pigeon holed from just this one viewing. I didn't even get 1/3 of the way through it when I copied the URL and sent it to my son for his viewing. and learning also. Thank you both so much for taking the time to teach us and to share your knowledge and expertise. ECF

So wonderful video, Gene is a master, thank you for bring him to share some of this little secrets.

I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.

Excellent guest - what an education! I've been around wood for many years, but I think I learned something from each of the 10 points here. Thanks!

I enjoyed that Scott, highly informative video. Super knowledgeable guest. Thanks.

Good stuff.

This was eye-opening!

Thank you. I learned some new information. Excellent top 10.

In the Sear’s catalogs around the turn of the 20th century, you could buy house kits. They advertised a guarantee that there would be no knots larger than a dime (or nickel-don’t remember). Try getting that guarantee today. LOL

Scott, fantastic video! Dr. Wood is great

Time to update your subscription thermometer!

Yay. I’ve missed your videos the past few weeks.

For more understanding of how bad design and loose furniture leads to disaster, look into the difference between a column and a beam-column. Anything other than axial loading introduces bending moment and torque on the fasteners... and this gets seriously bad in a hurry.

Thanks again for a great video! I'm curious to learn more about how humidity affects wood movement. As mentioned in the video by Dr. Wood, temperature doesn't have much effect - moisture change is the enemy here. What happens if we soak the materials in oil or give it a good seal with paint, will that stop the movement? Any thoughts? =)

Hello Scott I recently broke a dowel and try to take it off with a screw but it pushed the dowel way inside the part what can I do to take it out.

Good video discussion content. At about 27:40 in the video you briefly mentioned hide glue. Do you use hide glue when you go to glue back the repair in that situation or regular wood glue. I use one or the other, but depends where the repair is.

Could you provide a link to the two references mentioned?