10 techniques from the Quarryman (E8)

Рет қаралды 19,930

Жыл бұрын

Beta breakdown of the Quarryman! I go through a handful of unique techniques I used to send all four pitches of the infamous Johnny Dawes climb. What a BEAUT. I have all the love for this one.
2022 Brit Rock film tour website: www.britrockfilmtour.com/
And find them on Instagram: / britrockfilms
TECHNIQUES:
1:27 high step
2:04 mantle
2:48 finger combinations
3:32 upside down palm
4:41 foot jam
5:29 finger jam
5:54 hand jam
6:38 chicken wing
8:15 back stem
11:05 full body stem
12:24 head bar (bonus technique yay!)
I have exclusive content, early access, discounts on merch, & mOR3 on Patreon:
/ annahazelnutt
& ofc slab is sexy stickers here: annahazelnutt.etsy.com
#theQuarryman #SlateQuarries #slabclimbing

Пікірлер: 62

@ulrichminky9495 Жыл бұрын

OMG.... I am a very old man who used to climb in the 60s and 70s. I can barely even walk now but when I was about 18 I too could high step almost to my neck. It was not only a rock climbing technique but a great party trick. I have been binge watching your channel as well as Magnus Midtbo. You climbers today are doing things we never even thought of. Much love.. ~ulrich

@AnnaHazelnutt Жыл бұрын

Ahahah that’s incredible!!! It IS such a great party trick! I’m so glad you like both my channel and Magnus’s! It always makes my day to hear that :)

@ulrichminky9495 Жыл бұрын

@@AnnaHazelnutt You are the real deal. Where I used to climb back in the day there was this 49 degree slab of granite with zero holds. It was almost 30 meters long and if it were a dry day you could walk up it. If it were even too humid you would slide right off. In a light rain if you started at the top and slid on your butt you would go flying off into the forest.

@kevinseymour9774 Жыл бұрын

LOVE these beta breakdown videos!!

@walkerig1 Жыл бұрын

Good that you are continuing to advance your skills and technique. The Quarryman is truly epic from the range of techniques to its forbidding location.

@moonlight00001 Жыл бұрын

😂😂 I've used the head bar on a few climbs to sneak in a rest when there was a volume above my head, it's so fun. Great techniques, the full body stem looks scary af

@Musical_Sweetness Жыл бұрын

I love the videos when you talk to the camera like this one! That's a nice achievement! Endurance and technique. You are super flexible! These high steps are like impossible! 🤣

@jonnes__4657 Жыл бұрын

These high steps are nothing for my knee.... 🥴 .

@TomDufall Жыл бұрын

I'm glad you mentioned the lack of helmet (and that it was just for the section where it was an issue) - it's always good to see safety promoted.

@marcchrys 10 ай бұрын

Personal choice. Was Johnny Dawes not aware of safety issues?

@seanmcguire61 Жыл бұрын

Great breakdown, love the climbing terminology “head bar,” and last video’s, “smedging.” Need to see that Reel Rock episode you’re in, the footage looks epic!

@AnnaHazelnutt Жыл бұрын

Hahahaha yes yes I’m just going around naming essential slab techniques 😂

@flwi Жыл бұрын

Very interesting to see all the tricks and technique used! Congrats on the send 💪

@superdad942 Жыл бұрын

Amazing. Crusher! Thanks for the candid vid! So rad

@AcidoFusidico Жыл бұрын

Thanks master Anna for sharing your tips :) You're so fresh and inspiring!

@anashalim3366 Жыл бұрын

Love your videos and all the content you do!!

@neurodivergentlily Жыл бұрын

This wasn't suggested to me! Happy/Interested/Excited to watch it tho!! :D

@JackHackaday Жыл бұрын

So epic! Good job breaking it down.

@AlexTheUruguayan Жыл бұрын

Interesting as always - thanks!

@DrSenorFishTacos Жыл бұрын

Love the Emperor's New Groove reference. 👌

@Gorwee Жыл бұрын

Hey Anna, That palming thing when you revert your hand and it works better than the classic palming... I think it is because it is similar to a drop knee for the feet. Because of the "twist" of the elbow, it actually helps your shoulder stay close to the wall, the same way how a dropknee works to make your hips stay close to the wall. Don't know if that makes sense for you?

@matthewjaques1375 Жыл бұрын

Amazing send!! The Quarryman is such a classic line with so many strange moves to get up the grove, I cant imagine how difficult that pitch must be due to the lack of friction. Unless you have climbed on slate, it's very hard to understand just how tricky / impossible smearing is! Any more projects in NW?

@gigglysamentz2021 7 ай бұрын

2:58 It's like a pinch using the strong middle fingers. I then to use my index finger instead of ring finger, but it's a weird one, because you have a 2nd wall at an acute angle, which stops you from fitting the the other fingers! I wonder if even the rest of the hand is be diffuclt to fit the walls!

@luisdominguezmora7216 Жыл бұрын

The bruising sounds horrible, but makes sense since you’re creating so much pressure on your skin for friction 😟 All those broken blood vessels didn’t bleed in vain tho! 🤭 Conrats on the send!!! 💪🏽

@eccehomer8182 Жыл бұрын

Quarryman & The Walk of Life... epic UK climbs. Have Tom or Pete tried to talk you into to doing Belly Full of Bad Berries at The Creek? That climb brings "high stepping" into a totally different context! 😂

@AnnaHazelnutt Жыл бұрын

Oooh hahaha I don’t really crack or offwidth climb so I’d assume that’s WAY out of my league but a very cool looking climb!!!

@eccehomer8182 Жыл бұрын

@@AnnaHazelnutt Way out of my league too. It looks like a proper thug, so probably not your style... but then there's nothing like getting out of your comfort zone. Only Pete and Mari have flashed it... not even the O-Dog managed to do that!

@ingridheinz7985 Жыл бұрын

the chicken wings are very funny AND useful. Thanks for that! 🙂

@kft4764 Жыл бұрын

I had a random thought when you were talking about upside down palming that that's basically the arm version of a drop knee

@vaindeludingjoys Жыл бұрын

I think you're right! A drop knee improves hip position relative to the wall, and an upside-down (thumbs down?) palm maybe gives the shoulder a better mechanical advantage and improves trunk position relative to the hold

@jonnes__4657 Жыл бұрын

Twists the hips.... correct .

@AnnaHazelnutt Жыл бұрын

Oh my goodness this is revolutionary hahahaha 🤯🤯🤯 YES

@kft4764 Жыл бұрын

@@AnnaHazelnutt It shall be called...up elbow

@snefansson Жыл бұрын

Ok so I'm curious, does anyone have an answer to why there is SUCH a big difference between indoor gym grades and outdoor grades? Like I've done 7A lead indoors, but no waaaay I'm climbing the quarryman at my current level. Why is the difference so big? Anyway great video as always Anna!

@AnnaHazelnutt Жыл бұрын

Hahaa so there is always a difference of indoor and outdoor grades, but 7a is from the British technical grading system. This pitch has a consensus around 8a/ 5.13b. Hope that clarifies!

@An_Otter_Dennis Жыл бұрын

Great Video as always keep it up!

@BasicThought Жыл бұрын

The evolv oracles you are wearing are so nice I just got myself a pair. To bad they are discontinued.

@AnnaHazelnutt Жыл бұрын

Hahaha omg I know

@michelemaio8399 Жыл бұрын

Love you

@TheBananaLoverorignal 10 ай бұрын

anna u screwed up my onsight w this videooooooooooooo

@gawth Жыл бұрын

How about a break down of some failed moves - we learn from our failures after all 😊

@olivierhuet9860 Жыл бұрын

S..t I thought the headbar and head scrubs were my secret super techniques :). I obviously used them on much easier climbs, but as a desperate mesures on climbs that were at my limit, it save my sends a couple of times.

@AnnaHazelnutt Жыл бұрын

Hahahaha it’s the desperation that makes the head bar such a high quality move 😂

@jazzysmazzy3571 Жыл бұрын

Could you do a video on flexibility and strength exercises for high steps/heels?

@crescentfuze Жыл бұрын

I mean, the palming thing you were doing, is also done by Dawes in Stone Monkey on it so ya :)

@AnnaHazelnutt Жыл бұрын

Oooh yaaa he implemented some solid techniques for his ascent

@lolali_11 Жыл бұрын

👍💚

@brittneymerayhorta Жыл бұрын

How do we watch Queen Lines?

@AnnaHazelnutt Жыл бұрын

It’ll be available for download in April 🥲

@nilsp9426 Жыл бұрын

Great video. Just one thing. You need to get out of your appartment again and onto the wall. You will break all the things with your climbing imitations and excited energy!

@AnnaHazelnutt Жыл бұрын

Hahahaha Omg I will 😂