Thank you much!

Hi! For nozzle change you can refer to my video on SV06 Plus nozzle change. That extruder is almost identical to the SV07 Plus if you remove the extruder cover → kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jpmZp6mKqMDYn6c.html

No, it is very similar but slightly longer tip, shorter thread. You can use it, but you'll have to design and print different fan shroud and adjust the probe height.

Good question! For several reasons: A) it reduces the print head mass by 50g improving X axis acceleration and resonance characteristics. B) It's also easier to access the extruder tensioner screw (I changed it to a larger head screw that can be manually adjusted). C) Without the cover I also get a better, less obstructed view of the nozzle, important when printing the first layer. The only downside is losing the stock extruder lights, but I have added my own LED light strip. On printables you can actually find a model which lets you use the original lights without the bulky cover.

Thank you for your comment! I'll be discussing my bed leveling experience in an upcoming video. So, if I understand correctly, you encountered issues with the automatic z-tilt process when using the leveling wheel and spring in the original setup right out of the box. So you attempted to switch to solid and then to soft mounts, but the problem persisted? From this seems like the problem might not be related to the mounting itself but could be attributed to your z-offset settings or problems with the probe itself. In my case, I found the leveling wheels to be a welcomed change from the fixed bed on the SV06 Plus. They made it easy to achieve perfect bed leveling initially, and it has remained that way for the past three months, I did not need to adjust the leveling wheels ever since the initial setup.

Yes, that's something I need to research myself. I recommend watching the video on using Sovol cura profiles in the latest version of Cura (5.4). Can you get 0.2mm nozzles in the Sovol style? Or are you using standard Volcano and modified fan duct? It is indeed something I would be happy to look into.

@@gerGoPrint3D I'm printint on original nozzle and fan in 0.15mm layer height. Lower than that I encounter problems, I think extrusion is not calculated correctly and I would like to use adaptive layers function as result seems impressive with layer height 0.15±0.10mm. Speeds up print where it does not matter and lowers the layer where needed. But 0.05 every time destroys the trees supports and makes blobs everywhere while 0.15-0.25 looks nice and smooth.

Interesting,​@@deciver5 I will have to try. Are you using Cura 5.4?

@@gerGoPrint3D Yes. Imported settings from sovols cura and now I try to get as much as possible out of them. For now the biggest problem are tree supports which extruder tends to rip from buildplate.

@@deciver5 that's a bummer. I tried enabling z-hop, but in my test adding z-hop made prints significantly slower on the SV07Plus.

1. easer access to the filament tensioning screw (I changed it to a thumb screw) 2. less weight, less momentum, less ghosting / ringing 3. better visibility of the part being printed 4. better airflow for the cooling fans 5. easier access to the nozzle It's totally up to you if you want to remove. If you do there is a free led mount available on printables (I designed my own, because I use my on led stripe, but the referred model works with the original lights. Important: redo input shaper calibration for the x axis if you do remove, as this changes (improves) the physical characteristics of the print head motion system.

Thank you for the support!!

It's called "cable buckle.stl" and "cable buckle.gcode". If you email me I can send you the files.

@@gerGoPrint3D thx u did find online af i got the name

That's difficult to explain. I show you the sound of it in the video :) Don't make it too tight, because that will put too much strain on the motor. But if it slips during quick toolhead / bed movements (causing layer shifts) add a bit of tightening. There is a pretty wide range thought where it is OK, so it's not like you have to get it exactly right.

@@gerGoPrint3D I keep getting an issue where the left side of the printer is printing too low while the right side is too high. Is there any Z motor check for this issue? I've done Z tilt and bed mesh right after but I keep getting the same issue.

@@sounghungiAre you loading the bed mesh in your start g-code? Make sure to have m420 s1; in there

@@gerGoPrint3D The bed mesh is loading but I think the issue is that the left side is slowly lowering any time the z axis is moving. So during the bed mesh, it causes the bed mesh on the right to be skewed.

Veuillez préciser à quoi vous faites référence exactement. Un time code pourrait aider ! Par exemple. 5:33 Si vous voulez dire comment j'ai abaissé le portique (gantry?) pour que le processus de HOME se termine avec succès, j'ai simplement tourné les deux écrous de la vis mère, ce qui a suffisamment abaissé l'axe X pour que la commande HOME commence à fonctionner. 4:17 Comme mentionné, mes roues de l'axe Z n'ont nécessité aucun réglage, mais vous pouvez également régler l'écrou excentrique (eccentric nut) des deux côtés des roues de l'axe Z. Si vous parlez du réglage de l'inclinaison en Z (Z-Tilt), je le montrerai dans la vidéo suivante, mais en gros, j'utilise la commande de menu sur l'appareil.

@@gerGoPrint3D ma question n'est pas dans la vidéo 😅 oui ma question était de savoir comment on règle bien le // de l'axe Z car j'ai une différence de hauteur entre la droite et la gauche ce qui au bout d'un moment lors d'un print, le tête tape sur mon print et la décolle du plateau 😞 merci 👍

​@@cyrdel7086 Ah clair ! J'en parlerai dans ma prochaine vidéo ! Merci pour la suggestion!