Thanks Beverly!

You are most welcome! Thanks for watching 😃

Nice! I'm glad it helped!

Yeah, we're dealing with it right now on a job that has a gas fireplace insert. Not the most fun...

Thanks for watching 🫡

Thanks for watching! I hope it was helpful!

Yeah…you can use BIN shellac or Kilz for those spots then go over it with your finish paint.

I’ll check those out. We’ve been having a lot success with Benjamin Moore’s fresh start for a variety of specialty applications. As far as tinting primers go, generally we have a certain amount of primers stocked up. We use white for lighter colors and then we’ll use grey primers for darker colors. It works for our work flow because we pretty much always do 2 top coats of finish paint.

We see it all the time in homes where they’re burning candles. Especially in powder rooms where they burn them a lot.

@@SuperVassarBrothers That's right especially in the bathrooms. That black/greyish soot doesn't wipe off for anything, does some serious damage. Been racking my brain on what it could be the past 15 years, never thought it was from the candles. Thanks brother

Thanks for watching! I’ll give it my best shot without seeing your windows in person. Vinyl can be painted. I’d give it a light sanding with 150 grit sandpaper and caulk in any gaps that you see with white paintable exterior caulk. Once that drys you can hit it with your preferred exterior paint. My current favorite is Benjamin Moore’s Moorglo soft-gloss. I hope this helps. Good luck with your windows 🫡🪟🪟🪟🪟

@@SuperVassarBrothers Thanks so much!!! I’m gonna give it a try!!!

I'd recommend going with Zinsser Cover Stain, Zinsser BIN, or if there's not a lot of it you could go with spray Kilz. You may want to prime the whole area with a standard latex primer after you hit all of the crayon spots. Good luck with your project!

@@SuperVassarBrothers Sounds like I need to buy some Zinsser Cover Stain just to have on hand, as well as for the crayon problem wall. Thanks for the quick reply!

We plan on keeping the pop corn ceiling unfortunately for now. We thought we could paint it to make it look slightly better until we could afford to have it professionally removed or covered. Just wasnt sure if we should spray it or roll it due to the asbestos. Thanks for how straightforward your videos are. 👍

Spraying has quite the learning curve if you’ve never done it before. I’d roll it and I’d use BIN shellac first then go over it with whatever ceiling paint you prefer

I just did a video on using BIN. That's what we use for the application you're talking about. Here's a link to the new video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g76qpJlhvJyrpKc.html I hope it's helpful!

Thanks so much for your guidance on the shellac primer on the 22x28' room with 12' ceilings. All the walls and ceiling covered well with no problems,... except one wall that the homeowner remembers painting separately with a different latex egg shell paint. On that wall, I have had multiple areas from 4" x4" to 9"x3' that crackled as the shellac did not bond to the previous paint. All the walls were washed and let dry for over 24 hours the same. I will attach some pictures. I sanded those areas and tried the shellac again but I had crackling again, especially where the new shellac met the shellac at the border where it was scrapped where it bubbled up and crackled up to an inch or two into the first coat of shellac. I tried using Roman rx 999 and I had some similar results, but not in all areas. Some areas bonded well and I did some drywall mud work to level it off. Any recommendations of any other product, possibly the zinsser peel stop thin product? Also once the work is done any recommendations on a primer to use on the entire wall prior to painting the emerald latex top coat? Thanks

I’m not sure exactly what you’re asking. The texture mostly comes for type of roller you use. When you prime use the same nap roller that you use when you apply the ceiling paint. Then when you top coat it there won’t be a texture issue

I'd recommend doing two coats of Duration Matte. That is our go-to interior wall paint for the majority of our residential jobs. I always recommend doing two top coats of your finish paint. The Duration Matte should cover just fine in two coats, especially with a color like Light French Gray. That will give you better results then doing one coat of tinted primer and one top coat. Happy painting!

If it’s been painted recently then I’d clean the area, then prime and paint it with your finish paint.

I'd recommend the BIN shellac based primer from Zinsser. That gives me the most consistent results with slick surfaces. You may also want to sand the surface with 100 or 150 grit sandpaper prior to priming it. That will also help the product adhere properly. Good luck with your project!

XIM UMA for slick surfaces.

By bubbles, I'm assuming you mean air bubbles in the spackle / joint compound that show up after you sand. It really depends on how many there are. We often will use the wood filler from sherwin williams between finish coats if there's not a huge amount of bubbles. We'll smear it in with our fingers then lightly sand it. It dries super quick. Then we'll spot hit it with the finish paint before we do our final coat. If there's an area with a lot of pinholes then skim coating is the way to go. Lightly sand with 220 then prime, and hit it with your finish paint. I know it's a pain in the butt, but I haven't found any better solution. A way to avoid the bubbles in the first place is to mix your spackle. A lot of guys will mix their joint compound with a drill and a mixing bit. That whips the air out of the mud, and helps prevents the bubbles / pinholes from appearing in the first place.

You can't go wrong priming. If someone is paying you to do it, then the job would take longer and would have to allow for the extra time in the quote. If its your own DIY project, then go crazy :)

Good question. If we think the eggshell paint won't cover in 2 coats we will use a drywall or multi purpose primer.

You can use an exterior wood primer if the wood is in good shape. If you're getting a lot of bleed through then you may have to spot prime with a on oil-based primer, but a regular (latex) primer should work fine. Then I'd would use Moorglo Soft-Gloss from Benjamin Moore. That's my go to exterior trim paint and it's a hybrid.

@@SuperVassarBrothers Sorry for the delayed reply...been sick since Tuesday evening! Thanks so much for the response!

Your finish paint should cover that with no issues. I’m a big proponent of doing two coats of finish paint, but you can see how it looks after one 🫡

You can scuff sand if it’s super slick. You may also consider using a primer like fresh start. I’ve had a lot of success with that recently. It’s much more pleasant to work with than cover stain. If fresh start doesn’t work then I go with BIN. Here’s a video where I use fresh start if you’re interested: The Secrets to Painting Your Handrails FAST kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hJxheZx8nsnOnnU.html

We like Drywall primer from Sherwin Williams. May have a slight sheen to it, but we don't have issues with is flashing. We do two coats over it tho. The multi purpose from Sherwin Williams is great to. More expensive, but good.

Yes indeed!

hmmm, if I were in your shoes I would BIN shellac the areas that are bleeding through. Then I'd go over those areas with 2 coats of your ceiling paint. Thats the most bomb-proof solution I can muster without seeing your ceiling for myself. Here's a video on how to use BIN. You'll likely only need a quart of it cause it goes a long way. Good luck with your project! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g76qpJlhvJyrpKc.html

My current go-to wall paint is Emerald matte from SW. You don’t need to prime for typical color shifts. 2 coats and you’ll be good to in most cases.

I’m experiencing more and more crayon on the walls with my 2 year old. BIN and spray Kilz work well

If the final project looks good, that's what counts. The Shellac base BIN is around $50 USD here which is more expensive than most paints. Also depends on how much of the primer you use on the job (spot painting, just ceiling, or entire room), and its only one coat regardless. Whatever works for you and for your budget :)

@@SuperVassarBrothers you have a point, its alweys a tight budget😅. I only youse regularly the latex stain block products (similar to what you have shown)

You can definitely use the PVA primer to prime previously painted walls. Generally the PVA primers are somewhat transparent. If you're trying to do a major color shift, like going from dark wall to light walls, then it's not the best. But if you're just trying to give the wall a clean start, then you'll be good to go.

@@SuperVassarBrothers thanks 😊

It’s not a bad idea to hit the walls with a sanding disk as part of your prep. It’s not necessary but it will give you a smoother finish.

That does happen from time to time. The paint does make a difference in that scenario. Lower end paints do not tend to cover as well. The primer also matters. I've definitely had jobs where we primed and ended up doing 3 top coats. Not a fun time at all.

I haven’t used Roman RX so I don’t have an opinion on that product. More recently when the walls have been really messed up after we’ve pulled wallpaper, we’ve been using BIN shellac. That’s pretty much our bomb proof solution for quite a few situations.

Have you ever done just shellac over wall after wallpaper removal and no skim coat mud?

If you’re not doing a dramatic color change then you can go over the old paint with the new matte paint. We always do 2 coats and that almost always does the job.

I also have zinsser 123...would that be overkill?

It'll be an off-white colour. I was just worried it'll mess up the undertone but maybe I'll just add an extra layer. thanks for answering so quickly!

You should be good just by doing 2 coats with the flat. There’s no need to seal it after you paint it with the flat paint.

@@SuperVassarBrothers thank you so much for all the useful infos!

I’ve never had BIN fail to stick to a surface. You can do a test section, but in my experience you can probably just hit it without sanding.

thank you.@@SuperVassarBrothers

Hmmm, I don't think I've ever painted something like that. I might just skip the primer and try Regal Moorguard Low Lustre or Moorglo Soft Gloss exterior paint from Benjamin Moore and see if that sticks. If you're having bonding issues then I'd try the High Adhesion bonding primer from Sherwin Williams. You may want to sand it before you put any product on. Good luck with your project!

@@SuperVassarBrothers Thank you for your reply

Ugh, yeah unfortunately you’re going to have to sand off the loose paint. Then I’d suggest using an oil or shellac primer then going over that with whatever trim paint you want. You could also try a hybrid paint after you sand like Emerald Urethane Trim Enamel from Sherwin Williams, Advance or Command from Benjamin Moore.

@@SuperVassarBrothers thanks a lot for helping me❤️

123 is a solid primer. I've used that a fair amount. Most of the primers I've used from Zinsser I've been happy with :)

Without getting too much into the weeds, primers and top coats do two different things. Primers generally don't have much sheen to them and are not meant to provide a protective coating on the surface. They are intended to prepare the surface for a top coats. The primer's I mentioned in this video are very good for priming.

I don't know why that would be. We've used spray KILZ and BIN Shellac over top sharpie and it's always worked fine.

@@SuperVassarBrothersbecause shellac is probably a solvent to the material in the sharpie. But hey if it works it works, I just had a different experience.

Generally any interior/exterior multi-purpose primer will work. I use the one from Sherwin Williams. If you’re dealing with raw wood that has a lot of knots and potential for tannin to bleed through then you may want to use something like exterior oil-based wood primer from Sherwin Williams, but most of the time the multi-purpose latex will work just fine

Great , thanks!!@@SuperVassarBrothers

That’s how you know it’s working 😏

You’ll be ok if you just hit it with your finish paint most of the time.

Gotcha, what would color white would you paint a closet? I think I can leave you alone after this?

That's the sacrifice I'm willing to make for a quality finish 😛

No sure what you mean by “agree”. Almost all of the current paints offered today are water based. There are a few specialty products that are hybrids or are oil-based.

That’s a hard pass. We’ve had mixed results with Aura. The eggshell is hot garbage. I’d take Emerald flat or matte over Aura any day of the week.

@@SuperVassarBrothers lol ok… nearly 47% volume solids for aura egg to 37% on emerald, not even close, and then there’s gennex tint…You should spend some more time using these products. You can argue with me all day here, but it won’t benefit you. I promise you that you’re missing out.