Following a lot of the recommendations from this video in combination with your book has made my tendonosis be nearly non-existent. I climb plus play a lot of disc golf which also causes a lot of intense strain on the elbow. This has basically saved my athletic life, and I cannot thank you enough.

Here is a quick TL;DR but please watch the video because Dave is a fkn boss :) 1) Take ownership of the injury (8:10) 2) Be strong. Strengthen (condition) body, esp upstream arm/shoulder. (10:36) 3) Develop awareness. Note & listen to how your body feels. Adjust volume/intensity or session type accordingly. (13:27) 4) Don't stop moving. Maintain steady level of fitness/activity without typical 'Western' prolonged sedentary tenancies (17:25) 4.5) Difficulty of identifying causal factor. Sometimes change of routine/scenery can help. Trial and error methodology. (21:32) 5) Rest professionally. Top quality sleep, nutrition, reduce life stresses (22:56) 6)Respect your circadian rhythm. Increase quality and duration of sleep. (23:16) 7) Keep training. Possibly do more! (25:36) 8) Do heavy resistance training all the time! Incl typical eccentric wrist curls with heavy load (some pain might be required) and high frequency (daily!) and possibly more modern evidence of isometrics. (28:21) 9) If its not working, keep searching and try again however its tricky to decide timescale for each protocol. Lots of the data is weak/uncertain, such a nuanced issue. (34:24) 10) Tendons are made from what goes into your mouth. Nutrition. Collagen synthesis from Glycine, Proline and Vit C (comments on the recent hype train for this) but he relies on mostly eats whole foods (39:05)

Dave has like the calmest demeanor ever and explains things so well. He deserves much more than just 14k subs.

I have never heard any of this before, I have gone to all kinds of medical professionals, and they all say rest. That said, I took 10 years off of both climbing because of my elbows, shoulder, and running (patella tendon), and it never got better. I finally decided I didn't care, I was going to wear them out and get all I could out of them before I was completely crippled. I decided to train for a marathon, running 30 or more miles a week, lifting weights, and then started climbing, a lot, 4-5 times a week. It hurt really bad at first, one day I even dropped to my knees out of pain, and prayed for strength to continue, somehow stood up and kept going, now 6 months later, I feel great. my "Bad Knees" aren't bad they needed weightlifting and running. My super bad elbows, weight lifting and climbing. Shoulder, weightlifting and climbing; now No pain at all. Now hearing this said makes so much sense, almost mad at the doctors. Thank you

Ever since I saw this video a month ago, I have dramatically increased the volume of eccentric rehab work I do on my elbows. It has helped me make more progress with my tendonosis in one month than I have in over a year and a half of resting and avoiding aggravating exercises. Thanks a million Dave!

This was perfect Dave! Thank you for our interview and for diving deeper into the topic!

So underrated. This is THE most helpful elbow recovery video. I'll let you know when my right golfer's is cleared up.

I'm 42 and thought I would have to give up climbing due to golfers elbow. I was recommended a book called the trigger point therapy workbook and after finding the trigger point in my lower tricep and after just a few minutes of massage of the trigger points (very painful) got almost complete relief. I rarely need to revisit the massage these days and have zero elbow pain at all. I've passed on this info to other climbers in my local gym who have had similar results. Life changing.

Hi Dave, I always love your vlogs, thanks for this one. I just wanted to add that I think that the way I was sleeping contributed to my golfers not clearing completely despite doing all the correct exercises. I slept on my side all night with my hand under my head, so elbow on full lock which puts apparently 40 times more strain on the tendon than when it's straight. I used to wake up with my golfers elbow aching ever day. I've trained myself to sleep with my arm straight, I now wake up with no pain and the last signs of golfers have completely gone. Just wanted to share in case it helps anyone else. Cheers

I’m a masseuse and have been suffering from it for years. Stopped working for long periods, got better, but once resumed massaging - it all came back again soon. Now I understand - training and loading every single day, not just special physio exercises but general resistance training. I love the voice and accent of this presenter. So soothing and pleasant to listen to.

This is the first encouraging message I have heard in regards to my elbow tendonosis. I've enjoyed your other videos previously but this one has truly given me hope as I have been struggling with this issue for the past 3-4 months. Thank you for your opinions, time, research, and willingness to share your story.

I love how the advice is based on current evidence and acknowledges the limitations of the available research.

This is the best climbing channel on youtube right now. This is the only thing I have found that covers so many recovery techniques so fully and by someone who you can tell did his research thoroughly and is intelligent enough to filter the bullshit.

2nd time watching this as I am trying to recover from this very issue. I keep picking up new takeaway points each time. Thanks for such detail.

The more I follow your work the more I love and respect everything about you. Looking at the books on your shelves is a real demonstration of your commitment to being stronger, faster, smarter.

Thank you. I have suffered with my elbows for years and thought my training days were over despite medical advice and physio. I saw this a year ago and a lightbulb moment happened. I applied the principles Dave talks about and, a year on, have no pain. I have recommended this VLOG to many people. At 57 I am able to climb and train with enjoyment again. Thank you once again.

I cant tell you how happy I am that I found the channel, It's been a long time since I've felt a need to watch every video someone has. You're like climbing yoda, I love it. Thank you for all of the effort and knowledge.

Amazing vlog Dave! Really interesting about the surgeon who discovered that heavy loads helped to recover his Achilles’ tendon! I got golfers elbow badly in both elbows at the same time and it was very painful when I climbed, but I never stopped climbing, trained my extensor muscles, repeatedly held a 20kg kettle bell in my hand at my side and held it with as relaxed grip as I could and did open handed fingerboarding, 10 second hangs, 6 hangs, max effort with as much weight added as possible, training from 15kgs up to 23kgs by the time it was healed. Completely recovered after 8 months!!!!!

Mr. MacLeod, I've always admired you for your climbing achievement and, from now on, you've also gave me hope, which I had lost after years of pain.

Here's my TL;DR for people in a rush. I couldn't identify points 5 and 8 distinctly. 1. (8:12) Take ownership over the injury 2. (10:37) Be strong 3. (13:28) Develop awareness 4. (17:26) Don't stop moving 5. ??? (around 21:33) Have a change of scenery 6. (23:15) Respect your circadian rhythm 7. (25:37) Keep training 8. ??? (around 29:02) Eccentric vs isometric movement 9. (34:24) Keep switching up your routine 10. (39:04) Your tendons are made of what you eat

This is an absolutely perfect video. Mine has gotten so bad finally I can get an actual solid climbers perspective and advice, thank you!

This is the best video about tennis elbow on KZfaq. Finally, the simple explanations makes sense. These are my questions: how can you manage your nutrition when you’re in too much pain to cook consistently? How can you get good sleep when the pain wakes you up? How can you consistently exercise when the pain is excruciating, rather than mild, so exacerbations feels like you’re in the bowels of hell? And I have tried multiple conservative treatments. Thank you for this.

This guy knows what he's talking about. My triceps tendinitis and golfer's elbow finally began to get better after taking a holistic approach and changing my lifestyle.

You are my hero. I'm getting your book right now! I've been dealing with this exact injury the past 3 months and have been looking for answers. The story you told at the start is exactly what I'm dealing with and thirty something climber jadada. As a climber just didn't find it. I went to the gym about 2 months ago and started doing some simple body splits. I found having a dedicated arm day lowers my pain. I notice after my arm day I don't have any pain for 2/3 days. So, I think i will increase my workouts. I also do a leg and chest/back day. My arm day Form and weight, do proper form, choose the weight such that you can complete the first set of 15 reps. STANDING BARBELL CURL sets 4, number 15,12,8,4, then drop the weight and keep going on half the weight until you lose form. Skullcrushers , same protocol cable rope skullcrusher, same Rope Tricep Pushdown, same INCLINE DUMBBELL CURL,same I hope this helps other people. I definitely think, going heavy on the weights is the way to go. I have not gone back to climbing yet. However, I will pursue some climbing in september again after begin off for 4 months. I will try to maintain awareness on the wall to prevent injury, but definitely not all pain is bad.

thanks for sharing... at the ripe age of 54 i started doing tree work this year and even started climbing(arborist).. Ive had a sore elbow for a few months and after resting completely for a week with no difference Ive been treating it like I treat most injuries... work through the pain and almost always it eventually builds back...Ive been building on what I can despite injuries be it back or whatever and its been very effective

I recommend your channel to climbers and non-climbers... awesome content. Keep up the great work!

Could you please do a video demonstrating some of the rehab exercises described here, and pictured in the book (which I own)? I'd love some more detail, since I've decided to commit to your recommendations on what could be a long ride! Thanks for the video, and for the book!

The Bulgarian weight lifters worked up to max lifts daily and they were incredibly successful and weren't getting injured. I like that quote about tendons not requiring rest. Thank you for the insight!

Thank you for this in depth talk Dave! As a new climber (4 months) I am already suffering from golfers elbow which at times really saps my new found joy in the sport. I am certainly taking your idea of "educated trial and error" forward to try to rehabilitate my elbow!

Just listened to this video , I believe it will help me with my tendinitis from hand stands . just because it changed my mental state about the “injury”. I’ll just keep on working instead of worrying.

Thanks for the video. I suffer from golfers elbow and after seeing this video I decided to follow the rehab protocol. It’s helping! I also read “Make or Break” and am halfway through “9 out of 10..”. Love your content!!

Bought your book based on this video, I love how it uses all the techniques I found over the internet, from Lattice training, c4hp, Hooper's beta, ... with detailed pictures and even more tips. Thanks a lot.

I reaaaaaally really appreciate the honesty when it comes to uncertainty in the research. I'm all for following the science, but people often don't realize just how inconclusive published research can be. Thanks for the wonderful explanation on the trial and error approach, and never reaaally knowing what fixed the problem when you are late in the game of guess and checking. Looking forward to less elbow pain in the future :):):)

Thank you for this very informational video! As there are factors where we don't know every detail (based on science) there will always be room for an educated guess. I injured my wrists (TFCC) a few months before and feel a bit golfers elbow since a few weeks now, ironically the typically rehab excercies for the TFCC are mostly equal to the ones for golfers elbow, so I try to keep on bouldering, climbing and training as long as it does not get much worse. For the TFCC Injury I saw a doctor but only was told to rest for 4 weeks. I did and it didnt' get much better, so I continued doing the things I usually do but tried not to overdo it when there was pain. It's getting better over time, but slowly. The golfers elbow luckily isn't too bad, I stopped doing pullups but I think I will move on. I think strenghtening instead of just resting is a good advice, just do it carefully and listen to your body.

It's been two years for me now with this problem on my right elbow and i had have some months of total desesperation and avoid climbing at all. At the begining of my injury I take some rest and then start the reab with very very soft exercicis, it didn't work for me at all. Now i'm trying to go back to climbing, the first thing that I did it's been global exerceses like push ups, pull ups, biceps pulls, shoulders... to try to get in better shape and now i'm starting to put some more specific work and go back to climbing once a week or two. The pain is still there and i haven't seen a real progression in the last two months and some days like today are thought and very hard for the motivation but i'm gonna try very very hard the entire 2022 because I really need to be able to climb again and enjoy that sport again. Thanks for all the recomendations Dave, thanks a lot. Sorry for my bad english, i'm from spain and it's not been easy at all to whatch the full video and understand everything but I tryed my best.

I've just come across this video, and could not be more grateful. The way you manage to bring clarity to such a minefield of information is mega. Thanks loads - putting this into action immediately!

Very interesting and thought provoking. I'm not a climber. I'm a 68 year old guy who likes to row and kayak, also a furniture designer maker, so one way or another my elbows have come under a good deal of stress. As a result golfers elbow has been with me a good deal for the last twenty years or so, not in fact on my dominant side. I've had no treatmwent other than the usual 2 or 3 stretching exercises, and from what what you say probably far too much rest, in so far as my day job allows. I'm now looking forward to trying a much more proactive approach thanks to your video clip. By the way I'm largely vegetarian - perhaps a little contrary to the last part of your discussion, but there are other reasons for that! Many thanks for what to me is a different way of looking at the problem.

Well done sir! I've recently started getting some medial epicondyle pain (and I'd rather call it climbers elbow) for the past month and have been working on rehab, exercises, therapies, etc. but Dave's discussion was the most coherent, broadly-ranged and thorough discussion on the topic. I have a good grasp on anatomy, physiology, mechanics, proprioception and understand my body very well, so any good advice is appreciated. I agree with Dave's comments on how much in sports medicine is speculative at best, many docs really don't know much about such topics and each patient must find what works best for them by listening closely to their own bodies. Excellent work and thank you very much!

Great video Dave, im 41 now and have had the dreaded tendonosis in my weaker right arm after lockdown that I've managed to back off by simply doing more........push ups. Ridiculous but that's the body eh. Many thanks ;)

Just when I started doing physiotherapy for my elbows this pops up, awesome timing :)). Great video as always Dave, really enjoy all the content that you put up. I bought your books and they are well worth at least 1 read through. Keep crushing it on the rock, and keep releasing this awesome content. Cheers !

So I had pretty nasty elbow problems on my left arm last year. I bought your book, make or break, read through it and tried a lot of things for quite a while. However, I couldn't get rid of it. After visiting a doctor that specializes on climbing injuries, we found out that it was in fact my triceps tendon attaching to the elbow that caused the pain. It would prevent me from doing push ups, mantles and anything remotely resembling gaston moves. Unfortunately that type of injury was not covered in your book. HOWEVER, your principles revolving around excentric exercises with light weights eventually helped me resolve the issue. I had to tinker a bit to try and find an exercise that would load that specific tendon in such a way, but watching out for the cues regarding the mild pain you mentioned I managed to work something out that would quickly improve the issue and after a longer period of time resolve it completely.

Thanks for this resource Dave. The 'get stronger' advice is something that really hit home reading Ross Edgley's Art of Resillience. High level swimmers who had attempted to swim around Britain had failed early on due to injury - Then Edgley, effectively a body builder, managed it completely injury-free. He attributed this to having huge amounts of tissue capacity from weight training.

I had tennis elbow in one arm & I’m glad I found the info on eccentric exercise - my initial just load it up (concentric focussed) made it far worse. I also did take a break from climbing for a few weeks, then gradually increased it back, but the eccentric stuff allowed me to have better control over how much load I put on it (even if I pushed it too hard a few times, causing a step back). I also increased overall protein intake & knew the vitC requirement for protein to increased leafy greens & a vitC protein, just in case. Only just got back to full load in all directions with barely any pain left manning I started climbing much harder again… …at which point the other elbow decided it wanted a turn. Now have tennis elbow on the other side (triggered more on thumb grips/pinches whereas last time it was more the last 3 fingers that triggered it. I would say the recovered elbow tendon now has far more thickness than either before injury, or than the tendon on the other arm. I’m hoping with that experience, I can get a faster recovery on the newly injured arm, but not confident I won’t end up with golfer’s elbow once I’ve resolved the tennis elbow.

Ever since I started climbing I had elbow issues, not being able to climb more than once every 5 days or I would be in pain, this went on for 4 months. After resting for the lockdown for 5 months nothing changed. Came across this video and decided, instead of resting a lot, I would just go climbing more and do rehab exercises. Specifically, I did 400 seconds of hanging from a bar every day. in sets of 40 (active)/60(inactive) seconds. My issues evaporated in less than 2 weeks. Not saying bar hanging is a good rehab exercise or anything but it was just the first thing I tried.

You read my mind on many topics and opened my mind to many others. Climbing and physical activity is such an important part of my life. You have given me so much hope for the future and information to fix my golfer's elbow. Thank you so much.

Just finished reading Make or Brake. Thanks so much for adding more information on this topic. It's a huge contribution! Learning how to "take over the rehab proccess" has become crucial for me.

If it helps anyone, I found a combination of eccentric rehab, using straps for pulling work, not going too heavy on antagonist exercises (aka bench pressing), continued light climbing, and self massage using an armaid solved my tendonitis. It took a while to get to this point of trying random recommendations from other climbers, doctors, and randos on the internet lol

this is some of the most comprehensive and reassuring tendon info out there. thank you so much.

Finally, a video that addresses the complexity of this Injury. I’ve had GE for 12 months now and been trying various strategies- more recently stepping up the strength training. I’m already getting better results from this. Many thanks!!

That's again for your well thought out insights. I haven't had finger injuries these last few years since reading Make or Break. Now I have developed elbow pain after an intense three month bouldering stint (and I haven't done much bouldering before). I'm excited NOT to rest and to try out the exercises. And I can totally have faith in this approach as I have recently cured achilles tendonitis by doing lots and lots of calf raises that did hurt a little at first. After a couple of weeks this long term pain subsided. So I have faith in this approach for my elbows. Thank you!

Fantastic overview. I've been suffering from golfer's elbow and this has given me a lot of guidance and encouragement. Thank you Dave! 👌🏼

The best climbing content on YT, bar none. PS I'm in the process of rehabilitating my elbow and have been following the advice included in the book; this video adds another dimension to the discussion. Thank you so much.

I started climbing at 18 and within my first year I was sending multiple V5s and several 5.11s at the local crag... I think I developed golfers elbow in the first 6 months of that period and 10 years later I’m still dealing with it and not much stronger. It’s been the curse of my climbing career while I watch other, less injured climbers, get stronger and stronger.

The part about the shoulder deffs rings a bell with me too

Mark Rippetoe a strength coach has a protocol of Dailey pull-ups done for one to 3 weeks . That he states has always worked for his clients with these elbow issues. I cleared much the same way 30 years ago .

What a fantastic video!! This aligns with all of my biases! Lol! I have rehabed myself from both golfers and tennis elbow using these ideas with great results. I am now about to extrapolate some of the concepts to deal with some ECU tendon issues. Thanks! I just bought the book

Just diagnosed myself with tennis elbow today after getting pain in my last couple of climbing sessions. Wasn't too happy looking at recovery times etc, but actually feel glad to have such good information now. Lucky timing!

I really appreciate this information, 1 year in the hole with this injury. I feel optimistic now!

Thanks for this. I've suffered on and off for 30 years with this, and what you said made so much sense that I wondered why I hadn't figured it out for myself! I've made a finger board and used it daily with great results. I'm now less afraid of tackling fingery problems down at the wall, and am looking forward to this year's climbing with eager anticipation.

I'd absolutely would love to hear/watch your thoughts on wrist injuries as I'm sure there's a lot of us who suffer from this! Really enjoyed this video, thanks so much!!

Dave, thank you so much. I have suffered with elbow problems for a number of years now. This has really helped. Stay strong

Perhaps my take away from this video was wrong, but I watched it 4 months ago and understood that I might be able to simply train through the pain somewhat and it would eventually get better. That sounded much more fun than climbing softly and doing eccentric work for months on end so I did 3 months of harder training again and I can say, at least for me, it did not work at all. After 3 months I figured it wasn't working and changed my rehab to climbing only at 50% intensity and doing eccentric exercises, and after 4 weeks of that I had my first 100% intensity session without pain yesterday. Just my experience :)

Thank you so much Dave. This is really good information. I suffer from tendinitis in my elbow and also now in my shoulder due to my work as a builder plasterer but when I have a flare up it hinders my climbing. I also noticed that resting as the doctor suggests makes little difference.

Tie a rope around a pole with weight on the rope. Wrap the rope around the pole many times and lower the weight to the ground with your palms facing the sky. This eccentric exercise ( lengthening under load) saved my elbows. Results should be almost instant. Thank me later

As a medical professional, I love the work you've done to tease through the lit on climbing injuries and give some objective advice with nuance. Too much out there these days lacks nuance. I bought your book years ago, and really appreciate your approach. I started dealing with a bit of medial epicondylitis pain recently and like you had been quite afraid of developing it. Looking forward to following through on your advice.

Really really excellent video, so detailed and thought out. Feel like I've just sat a uni lecture!

I'm 60. 2 years ago I got back into climbing, but had pain problems in my knees (don't know what it was), and tendon pain in my elbows (outside) and right wrist from over extending in a jump to a jug. These pains persisted but progressively went away after I switched to a Carnivore diet (and climbing only a few grades below my normal for six months), the last being my wrist, which was a 'true' injury. I wrote this comment half way through; interested to see what else is to come.

I think Point 8 (@32:50), helped me a lot with golfers elbow. I was hooked on training so did daily barbell work despite golfers elbow. I stopped using grippers and stopped weighted chins and bouldering. A combo of these I believe caused my golfers elbow. But I kept up neutral grip chins, neutral grip T-bar rows, lighter dead lifts, and kept all my pressing work going. The elbow was seeing work 5 days a week. Yes it was painful at times, but I worked at it daily, and it did diminish to about 95% improvement. Then point 10, the nutrition. I was doing well with nutrition too at the time, to back up the muscular development. So Point 8 and point 10, combined with backing off the activities that caused a 6/10 pain or higher, seemed to work. I have golfers elbow again now and struggling with it. I haven't been training daily however like I was before and I wonder is a lack of moderate (to heavy) workload many many times week the reason. I've noticed that my elbow is more easily aggravated when I back off training altogether.

I only just found this video and realized I used pretty much all those techniques to get over my elbow(and shoulder/wrist) tendinitis. Resting made things worse and working out or doing things I wasn't supposed to do according to common knowledge worked extremely well. I'd also like to add hanging (from a pull-up bar- just letting gravity do it's work) to the list of things that seemed like a no-no, but were a game-changer.

Excellent video. Thanks for sharing your extensive research! All the advice you've given here is exactly what I wanted to hear.

Thanks so much dave, Literally discovered I have golfers elbow last night after doing a particuarlly crimpy e1 yesterday. Booked myself a phsyio and going to watch this whole thing

When you start strenght training the upper body, you will also find out if you have weaknesses or imbalances (left / right), this can also help identifying possible causes of the injury.

First of all, big thanks for your books and videos and such. Makes a huge contribution to us sunday climbers that struggle with ability to train and improve. Personally I'm a bit bigger climber (bred to shovel shit, so...) at about 80kg, 39 years olf and last ten years broken down pretty much every year. I'm relativel fit and doing lots of sports apart of clibing. My level has been hovering at near 8a:ish in sport and boulder for most of that time, but injuries have been a serious problem. Currently strugling with golfers elbow. I'm really not that concerned with that as seems to be responding well to negatives on finger board. My main struggle for 5 years or so was my wrists. I admit that I was a bit of an idiot and substituted rest days with ibuprofein when younger. So over the years it escalated to point that I couldn't use any underclings or siders or my fingers would just uncurl. Actually it got to point that I couldn't trust myself with shopping bag. My hands were CAT:d, but apart from some arthiritis there was no clear problem. The surgeon (top of his field) said the best option was just operate and see what happens. Others said that perhaps I should change sports. And that's just not good enough. I focused more into mixed climbing, and calistenics. About year a go I run into wrist excercises or flexes for gymnastics and decided to test them. And it was a revelation. I mean in 2-3 weeks like 50% of the pain was away. And I've kept them in my arsenal for last year and my wrists are just fine. Except that now that suddenly I started training with finger climbing again after few years of brake really seriously ( jump from few 30 minute warm ups x 3 times a week to 2hrs of full on training 4 times a week), i got some serious golfers elbow action going on. I think the stress levels also have been contributing factor as I've got quite stressful job and old house that I've been renovating quite lot during last 6 years. I think there's quite lot of stuff in the other sports medicines (like with the calistenics) that have much more history and knowledge gathered unlike climbing that's still quite young sport in serious manner. I mean I've been climbing best part of 20 years, and I haven't heard anything about taking care of one's wrist before I stumbled into that stuff year a go in another sports training videos. And there it was mentioned as something obvious.

A healthy dose of kelp and seaweed, as well as sodium intake control, helped me. Sweating too many salts and putting excessive strain on focused ligaments and tendons dry and shrink them, making them nore susceptible to damage.

Thanks Dave, like others I have a tendon injury and this has helped me think about my approach to it

This is what I waanted to hear. Ive just started climbing again over the summer after a 10 year break. Ive been trying to build up slowly but got a little obsessive. 4 months in I've got a few niggles and now elbow pain. I guess my bidy isnt up to the demands i'm putting one it and get stronger overall is the answer. I'm not young any more, i havae goals in climbing and really dont want enforced rest.

Great content Dave, it really is amazing how much knowledge you've amassed through your years of experience

wow! Dave, with your knowledge and given that you know and went through the sources of the available scientific data regarding the subject you could publish a scientific review in a specialized sports medicine journal on the current state of the matter. Thanks for the video! What an enjoyment to follow your updates and projects! Definitelly a referent for myself.

I swear, right after you mentioned Vitamin C and the other amino acids I went and ate an orange and had a huge improvement in my golfer's elbow, wrist pain, knee pain within an hour?! I've been working on my diet by incorporating a larger variety of meat, including liver. I've also been working on incorporating more greens, and a variety of beans, but I seem to have skipped any leafy greens that have vitamin C. My vote is with diet

Epic! Given such clear direction of how I need to rehab this injury! Thank you

When I saw your training video you did with tennis elbow, I hope you had another specific video!!!

I also suffered for a couple of years and found the exact same thing. No exercise or light exercise never helped. I had to work it harder and it finally started going away.

I've currently got a wrist tendonosis (ECU) from campus boarding too soon and will definitely be applying the principles here!

Eccentrics worked the first time I had medical epicondylitis (Golfers Elbow ) - also worked for my lateral epicondylitis (tennis elbow) but I also had to change to working the mouse with my Left hand. However eccentric exercises did not work when the Golfers Elbow came back. However I recently started one arm lock offs for other reason and miraculously my elbow pain went away. So seriously give the isometric heavy loading a try. 👍 First time in 2 years my elbows haven’t hurt.

Pro-tip: Try and ditch the protein powder for real meat/fish/plant alternatives. I have experienced a great reduction of that typical annoying burning sensation that radiates throughout and away from my elbow tendon(s) after making the aforementioned change. Give it about a week or three before you start noticing the reduction in pain. --> Mind you, I am not lactose intolerant so it can't have anything to do with that. Just thought I'd drop what has been giving me some relief! :)

This is great! Love it! Been batteling golfers elbow for 2 months know and this is perfect! I have to become better with nutrition.

Like a boss! Keep up the good content Dave!

Another thing that makes diet recommendations difficult is that everyone comes into it with differing genetics, epigenetics, microbiomes in their gut/etc. Certain people may have food insensitivity that makes consuming something that is healthy for one person unhealthy for them. Some people may need more vitamin C in their diet than others because their biochemical systems are slightly different due to differing genes. I think the trial and error approach + general health awareness is generally best in this case too.

Thank you for this video been having pain in my elbow for a few months now, and did nothing about it. Now that I might know what it is I can try and fix it. Thank you

Very informative balanced video and super interesting well done Dave. Look forward to seeing some specific exercise videos and getting your book ;-). I suspect you will get many more views as we all try to train hard during COVID Lockdown!!

No doubt, there's some gold in this video. But but there should be some description of the quality the type of the pain or the different pains.

This is just pure gold. I’m getting the books! Question: I have heard that there is some evidence that flooding the surrounding tissues with blood is also helpful. One of these methods would be blood flow restriction training for very high reps with very low load. I have used this from time to time when my elbows get a bit cranky with positive results but not necessarily to treat injury. Do you have an opinion?

Great video! Is there any chance you could discuss finger synovitis? It seems to be an overuse injury that takes ages to heal through not crimping however comes back immediately when Its reintroduced. Any advice or personal experience would be greatly appreciated, keep up the good work!

Awesome vlogs they feel so personal and very thoroughly explained... I'd love to know what dietary changes you made, I've just watched the plant based diet vlog which was also very good..

Thanks very much for this great video Dave !

Subscribed. Would love to see an exercise video containing the eccentric movements discussed Thanks ! Amazing content

Another quality post Dave!!! I know its not climbing related but i would love to hear your thoughts on healing hamstring tendonitis. I have a stubborn cycling related case of it and i cannot shift it. It's chronic so icing seems pointless and stretching makes it angry. Mines is behind the knee on outside. I know this affects so many! Thanks for all the tips and posts😉

thank you so much, Dave! This is gold

Brilliant as always!

You're a hero! Thank you so much