I’ve made one before when I had a vxf 15 had an external aero port

I use the subsonic and gain to adjust my tuning. It seem to works!

I have seen guys use aeroports with a long rubber coupler or 2 and they just use gear clamps and slide it in or out, I think it's better to just tune somewhere in between spl and response. Find the optimal port length based on the favorite music of the owner you might give up a bit of spl but not much. It depends on the vehicle though some need fine tuning.

Not a single thing wrong with taramps as long as you use them according to their specs which is not below 12v. I got me a md1200 over bass1200 because it has the clip monitor extension

Hi bro,what is the real rms watt of taramps bass 1200..???

I can't say for sure unless someone meters it but from what I saw on one post it's more than twelve hundred Watts, but with box rise as parker said the sub may not see more than 800 if lucky 1000 Watts. We can ask him to meter it, that'll be helpful information

There's a BIG difference in the quality of the components and circuit design of those two amps.

I'd stay with the Alpine.

@@jamms992 why would you stay with the alpine

@@BobBasshead One has brand new low end components that are in spec and the other has old high quality components that most likely have drifted out of spec over time. The old one will be a lot less efficient if it is a class ab. I think the Taramps are good bang for the buck. Harmony audio has a 1500a1 $250 dollars on ebay. They put out crazy power. Those amps can do dynamic bursts 2 ohm 1614w bursts at 1 ohm 2984w bursts at .67 ohms over 4300 watts. I bought one because you just can't beat the value, if it lasts 4 or 5 years I am happy. If I only get 1 year out of it I will still be happy. Taramps would be my second choice for a sub amp.

@@dwaynevukoder1687 sorry for my late response, I've been in car audio for years. I'm still using Alpine amps that are close to 20 years old, the quality of the components and sound quality are still outstanding to this day. I'm an sq Bass head.

Thank you!

That’s a good idea!

@@ParkerTheBasshead agreed, can you make a video testing subwoofer placement in a SUV? lots of people have questions on that, no measurements

@@akjohnny5997 I agree. In my 2010 RAV4, for instance, I have 2 Memphis 15's in an Atrend enclosure tuned to 32hz and running them on a bigger alternator, 0 gauge wire, and be batteries powering a 3600 watt Kicker amp. Facing the rear of my car is the only way I have found they have the most pressure, cleanest sound, and loudest outside the car.. My installer always recommends regular street build's face the back.

Everyone in the winning lanes(suv no wall) run subs up port rear. There is a reason for that.

Disliked for using such an atrocious nickname

Thank you!!

I remember it that way too, but I am Mandella effected, so it's hard to say.

That is how it is on paper, +3Db every doubling of actual clamped r.m.s power, or cone area. But from real world testing i have rarely seen this happen. From 1 watt, to 2 watts, or very low power it is more likely. But every speaker gets a % of power compression, sooner, or later, untill there is little to no gain from power. @ or near max power compression, you must be very careful about not clipping, or the speaker will fail very quickly.

@@evilinside5984 Yeah. I was just saying what I learned 25 plus years ago. It might not even be right now days where everything is more efficient.

@@wijibo6772 I was just sharing my test results/experiences. Hope you were not offended, as this was not my intension, have a great day.

@@evilinside5984 No offense taken. It's always good to learn.

💪🏼💪🏼

Just for perspective, cabin size= the volume of airspace, that you are playing into varies SPL numbers greatly. Example: I had the same subwoofers, ported enclosure, amp etc., and in the trunk of a small car, meter in pass. kick., driver window down, usaci legal did 144Db. Took all of that out, put it into a Large suv like parkers, and it didnt even do a 140Db, metered with the same term lab meter, usaci legal, i think the actual Db was 139.7Db, a Loss of over 4Db, mostly from cabin size. Not to mention my voltage was better in the larger vehicle!

@@evilinside5984 I did notice this same thing on my previous setup. 2x12, I did 146.2dB @ 33Hz in a BMW E46 Touring, moved it to a tiny Hyundai Atos and did 148.2dB @ 37Hz (1800w clamped, only time I got it measured) and then an old Volvo V40 did 146dB again.

I will man!

@@ParkerTheBasshead I meant to say types not tutors. I have a little baby system I’m running on deck power and don’t live anywhere near car audio comps, I see that deaf bonce has a 60rms x 4 channel amp for $90 … I have 45 watt rms speakers (4) but also 2 infinity tweeters that say 45 rms, will that amp be too much or too little or just right?

Thank you!!!

This one is 64Ah and it depends on how long and hard I play it but it usually doesn’t drop below 13.2

That’s an awesome score! 💪🏼

what do you think??? the first option of course!

Pretty much all the Korean amplifiers are similar dc audio crescendo skar the only one stands out is orion hcca basically most Korean have the same circuit boards with different capacitors I kinda veered away from them because of space and price wise? And they draw a lot of current and very expensive to fix compared to a full bridged Brazilian amplifiers?

Yeah it is done well for me so far!

Different ratings. Have to run like an evl or above

@@xcheats0124 yeah I know

Late reply but your going to need a microphone that can handle that frequency and very few can, most microphones that can handle the volume and frequency of the bass would be microphones meant to specifically measure car aufio frequencies however there's surely tons of microphones that can handle that volume and frequency that aren't for car audio measurements I just cant think of an exact category however microphones used for movies manage to record bass at these frequencies consistently do I dont doubt you could buy a much smaller and cheaper version of the same microphone since your not trying to record an entire set or street thr microphone can be much smaller but id have to say look into high quality mics that can record the lowest frequency that your amps frequency response is rated at. Thr only problem past that would be exceeding the decibals for the mic not to distort the signal do then you may have to play eith your recording volume while keeping subs the same volume, then amplify the sound with any of the many audio file editing softwares available. No recommendations because I use at least 10 different programs depending on what I'm doing 🤷‍♂️. Just curious why do you want to record your bass to a more hi def sound?

nah rms but you will never see 8k out of it on subs but on a dyno you will the smart bass series has smart ohm technology so it does 8k at .5-2ohm so wire down to .5 and you will see 8k or very close to it

time stamp 6:16

Outside of upgrading your electrical no not really. Only substitute for power is more more power. I mean you could get some super capacitors but those are a bit pricey. Other alternative is LTO batteries but those are also pricey. I chose the latter. I have a 5S4P setup which is capable of delivering a nice 5kw+ smack to my eardrums when needed plus I'm still on stock electrical in an OLD land Rover. That should speak volumes about how powerful LTO batteries are. There's also LiFePo4 batteries as well. Best bet would be to order some from a decent site. They come in 3.2v 25-200amp. You could buy 4 200a cells place them in series and run those on your stock electrical system until you upgrade. Thing is they're expandable so if you decide to 16v your vehicle I'd order 5/6 that way you can run them in tandem with your system.

Nobody is running an 8k amp on stock electric. You need a big battery/ batteries, an altenator that puts out like 150amps minimum, and your voltage ideally should sit at 14.4-15 at idle.

Thank you!!

@@ParkerTheBasshead my pleasure man keep it up.

No idea! It’s been working fine ever since

And all my wire is 4 gauge. I want that Taramps Bass 1200 1 ohm now and nothing more running in 1 ohms.

@@renabecton1457 @Rena Becton noone else said anything but heres what I would do. Add a second battery in back and upgrade your wiring to 0 awg ofc from first battery to second. You can still use your 4 gauge from rear battery to amp if it's good ofc. Should help with voltage drop and not kill your new amp. Good luck 👍

Buy good battery post adapters that accept 0 gauge, Run welding cable or good copper 0 gauge power to the back (mark those cables with red electrical tape every 16 inches or so) do 2 or 3 runs to a 4 post terminal block or distribution block, 3 go to the front battery positive side and one to the amp positive side use a fuse for each wire close to the battery. Make sure you have good ground from the engine block to the car body. Use 0 gauge just find 2 good size bolts, one on the engine and one on the body grind a small spot on the paint under the bolt to make good contact to good metal with sandpaper for body grounds and take care routing to stay away from the exhaust moving parts ect.. same at the amp make sure you have 0 gauge grounded good to the body with a 3/8 inch bolt. or run another set of negative cables from the battery (you don't need a fuse on this side) if you want your alternator/amp/battery to last this should be done. You can buy a roll of welding cable for about 90 bucks. You can crimp the terminals with a vise or use a hammer and a punch and hit it good where the sleave sits make sure you have good solid crimps on the ring terminals that won't pull apart, If you need help find a car audio installer near you, just ask them to help you with the cables. The taramps 1200 does 1630 watts at 2 ohms at 1 ohm it will probably do 2000+ watts that is 250amps load give or take+ you need 80amps or more for your vehicle. The taramps 1200 will work at 4 ohms or turn the gain down at 2 ohms or your going to NEED a 330 amp+ alternator to keep up at 1 or 2ohms with the gain turned up. You could wire the sub to 2 ohms and turn the gain up from zero until you get voltage drop then turn the gain down until your stable with the Taramps1200 until you get a big alternator. The stock electrical systems can handle a 1000w amp load give or take on the average vehicle before your lights start dimming etc... then it starts costing money for electrical upgrades, I would do alternator first then add a reserve battery or just live with a 1000 watt system.