Antisocial Engineering words to live by mate,words to live by

KZfaq is so drunk that it says this comment was 4 days ago

Moki no I think it's the patreon thing where ppl can get videos before everyone else

TheJoJmaster ah right I forgot

Zamundaaa thanks sry i forgot

lmfao

🤣

@Mario true, and if you want to promote some sh** malware always make sure to create a second channel with which you can immediately respond positively to your own promotion. Date of creation does not matter as much, since people will not check if it says "Joined Mar 7, 2021" in the about section. Oh, I see they already did. Never mind then.

@Mario Yeah I've seen this exact scam around the site recently. There is always a second poster who says that exact same phrase immediately after the scam phrase.

@@TripleBarrel06 yeah I've also seen (twice now) some "crypto trading advisor" comment chain that literally has around 30 fake replies having a whole conversation, it's pretty crazy. Seems like an obvious scam to me, but considering how many people fall for broken English scam emails I'd imagine these comments are pretty effective.

Manoj BR agree. It makes sense, as commercial products benefit from volume, economies of scale and usually cheaper labor. But there's no equal to the satisfaction of making a custom item :-)

I agree.

Nope. That's the benefit of mass production... sadly

Agree. Everything about learning not just about earning.

@Joey Barreras if you do it practically, you will never forget it

Jana Ebert 😂😂😂😂

... i can clearly see that is not Nutella...

@@moneygreen4692 Ain't that italian nutela?

@@moneygreen4692 it's a joke

it really helped thanks

It would have taken forever to build 😂

Oof

😂😂😂 damn me too

The problem is the expense of the diodes albeit ~5-15 for 36 cells in this case, they are also approx 3/8in(0.8cm) cylinders, making for awkward lumps near each cell when you encapsulate in resin or vacuum seal with polyacetate films

@@AutoLinkThisToGmail You're right on two counts. 1, the diodes need to be rated for at least the short circuit current rating of the solar cells. They also have to be able to withstand that current at high ambient temperatures, often exceeding 50 degrees centigrade.(122 degrees Fahrenheit) As far as bullet epoxy rectifiers go, it would actually be better to use direct substrate rectifiers, similar to what you see if you take apart a high power bridge rectifier, so you don't have the bulk of the epoxy package, and the terminals of the diode are flat, and also serve as a heat sink. Besides, if you're building a framed, glazed panel, the little 'bumps' on the back side shouldn't be a problem, as long as they are lower than the terminal block. I'm guessing, that in bulk, such rectifiers could be had for pretty low cost, compared to the increase in performance in panels that are installed in less than ideal places.

You can get smd schottky diodes made for switching power supplies very cheaply. They are good for up to 5 amps constant current, two in series gives about a 0.7v drop. Would make excellent bypass diodes. The voltage drop you want is higher than 0.5v.

@@christopherleubner6633 actually, you would want to put them in parallel with each other, and put them in reverse of the polarity produced by the cell. The diodes would be completely out of play, no matter how high the solar cell voltage is. Their purpose, is to limit the reverse voltage on a shaded solar cell, so the less voltage drop, the better. You would put one parallelled pair of diodes on each cell. In fact, you could put one diode across each of the pair of cell interconnectors on each photovoltaic cell, to help with current sharing. The antiparallel shunt diodes need to be reverse biased, by the output of a solar cell.

Now replace with high quality glass. Suspend the whole thing and put a natural cooling system taking at least fifteen degrees off the electrical components. Invert system. Use eight mirrors. Record results. Replicate three times. Power your home for less than a thousand dollars. Rewire components in parallel, which was recently in the news. Replace copper with silver and upgrade materials used. Five hundred more dollars, it was just in the news a few weeks ago. Now you should be able to power your neighbors home too.

Virgo AVR nuclear power plant diy or buy?

Jack Wang who the fuck can buy a Nuclear power plant?!?!?

Crazy Nerd Inventor there is actually some "toys" with radioactive isotopes made back in the days. But of course I'm only being sarcastic so that joke flew over your head ;)

DIY nuclear bombs or buy?

that's on the rick rebuilds youtube channel

I think with ordinary glass there might be a power loss though.

​@@douglasheld Glass transmits about 80-90%, while Plexiglass transmits 92%. It is impact-resistant (so perfect for hail), but it is less resistant to temperature, softer and bends quite easily under weight. These solar cells are very delicate and the last thing you want is a flexible structure. If you want to use plexiglass, you need to make the structure stiff or use cells made using technology that is more resistant to stress and bending.

That's what the commercial panels use, and for exactly those reasons.(tempered glass)

Also more tips: Don't eat yellow snow, nor pat burning dogs.

His design is pretty bad, so DIY wins, specially if you can recycle materials. Epoxy was not needed, clear UV protected lacker would suffice, plexyglass is expensive and would better be replaced with normal glass, that you can recycle from old windows. Aluminum frame could also found from trash, but could well be replaced by sheet metal bent in U form and so on.

PLEXIGLAS and some other brands make UV resistant versions for years now that give you no yellowing guarantee, at best might notice some slight tint after years but personally knowing that I could get my money back if the glass yellows makes it worth it to me

Yes and then the cells are lost because of the resin, but probably they will crack before because they aren't flexible while the plexiglass is and deform by heat and cold.

no because it has a uv protectant in it

Yes, it will, but slower depending on how much UV expensive iinhibitors are put in said plastic. @@Blox117

he did it it in worst way possible on purpose, there are more cost effective ways, lamination is cost effective and looks professional and not messy, perfectly waterproof as well, he added costly things on purpose ;)

@@shanewhite352 well plexiglass works fine and imo a better choice due to crack resistance. You can find plexiglass for rather cheap with UV protection that won't show yellowing for years. The thing that'd fail here first is the epoxy as it yellows rather quick even with UV resistance. As for methods, could have used some kapton tape (a 3-5$ roll should be enough) to hold the Cells together and insulate the back and then use a thin aluminium sheet (should be around 10$ or less for that size) to hold it together for thermal transfer. There's a ton of ways to go about it for much cheaper. Also VHB tape is cheap af and works well Only issue I see is the method and work is rather pointless as you can find monocrystalline 100W panels with like 20% efficiency for any day around 50-60$ from Asia, NEW. So these panels aren't exactly saving you much money especially none in terms of labor. Also 150W panels are like 70$ so there's that

This completely. You can get cells for nothing, glass for cheap and wood on the bottom and make them a lot cheaper.

Or you hunt for used old modules, which are less efficient but save you time if you dont have much free time, sometimes you can get like 100 watt panel for 50 or 60 euros

you NEED the resin. without it you have an air layer between the glass and the cells. that eats up to 40% energy output. also it seals everything.

there is plenty of air between the glass and the sun, I dont see how a couple more mm will change anything @jp jay

ok, so let me explain. what you say it right. there is plenty of air between the cells and the sun. B U T: when light travels from one media into an other it will be refracted, reflected. (means: not 100% will pass) depending on the material it can be just 70-80% (even with glass or air, depending on angle) so if light goes from AIR to GLASS it will loose some %. THEN it will also go from GLASS to AIR (the one we speak of) and then it will go "into" the Solar Cell. so in total the light path is: AIR-GLASS-AIR- CELLS. that last AIR should be replaced by a liquid (or resin) to make it more transparent. if it happens one time you will get 80% of light in the cells. if you let it pass 2x through an AIR layer it will be 80% of the original 80% and that is only 64% windows will reflect the sun almost like a mirror if it comes in a flat angle. and that light is the one which can not go through.

...And I see everyone commented this. I can say it would be worth it for me because I'd make it for way less :)

plexi is far more durable than glass, especially when backed by 1cm of resin

Plexiglass and resin both yellow over time when exposed to UV rays, which will begin to cut into the light transfer

Plexi is more durable, but glass is harder, therefore more scratch resistant. I'd take scratch resistance over durability in this case, since you shouldn't be dropping the panel anyway. Also, it is more UV resistant.

Thats why it is far away from creativity and the sense of solar cells, wasting hundrets of euros to save some cents on electricity costs and buying new toxic materials to save the enviroment. The resin wasn't just absolutely not necessary, it was an absolutely idiotic idea for that he even spent almost the same amount of money like on the cells. He glued together two things from that one is flexible and reacts on heat and cold while the other cracks very easy, also the plexiglass will lose it's transparency in some months and the materials like the money is wasted anyway. Also all the other parts can be found in almost every corner in Germany as waste, only the cells needed to be bought, aluminium is toxic and now needs to be reproduced because he bought new instead of reusing something that is called waste, but probably he got so much money from YT that he became to decadent to think further, just making a new video fast for fresh yt-money. I'm getting disappointed more and more with every new video.

It's how most people do it, but cooling would definitely help since overheating solar cells are very inefficient. Coating them completely in resin doesn't help matters either

InfernosReaper, w.r.t. resin coating what would you suggest?

He made a video about exactly this topic some weeks ago.

Amen to this. Needs ventilation or the lifetime and performance will both decrease. Check temprature coeficient in datasheet.

Here in Holland nobody is glueing the solar panels to the roof. We all use a structure that aims the solar panels to the Sun. It gives a better rendement.

There is a good reason that parabolic reflectors are not used in that method, and it is the heat. Heat destroys photocells. I've personally always wondered why we don't just collect all of that heat from panels, and use it in practical ways. Perhaps a water or oil filled coil heat pipe attached to the back of the panels? 1. liquid cooling on your panels 2. possible way to run your hot water 3. most of that heat is even there in the winter Other than that, there are a few companies that make adapters for panels, that are literally a Fresnel lens, which refracts and concentrates light. This doesn't increase the actual efficiency of the panel, but concentrates more light onto each points, increasing the reaction. The reason people don't use them more, is that whole heat issue.

K D - Your physics class fail. Matte white painted cardboard is more reflective than alfoil, even mylar. Only custom reflective material for hydroponics comes close to matte white from a rattle can. You fail because you didn't google any tests of reflective surfaces! :P

@@bashkillszombies guess we are resurrecting this comment. (guess we both got recommended this old video) I wouldn't really call it a fail since as the other person stated, it's already going to hurt the cell so adding more reflectiveness isn't going to help in the long term. Also, although more reflective. Matte white directs the light in random directions. Therefore not as focused on an intended target. It's great for certain uses, like the back of a light fixture because it doesn't just reflect the light better but spreads it out as well. But not so great for applications that require precision. That's why they used 100,000's of mirrors at BrightSource in the Mojave desert and not matte white. Maybe it would help in finding the location from space. But not directing the light toward a central location. Think of looking through a windsheld vs. one that has 10,000's of cracks. The light is still hitting the outside of the glass, but the light is being redirected in a way you can't make out what's on the other side. Some photons might not even be hitting your eyes. And the ones that do are in various positions. But yeah. You are right about it reflecting more. Just not the best for the application... if solar cells didn't degrade under heat that is.

I was thinking of doing the same thing but with mirrors 🤔

@@bashkillszombies "custom reflective materials." Nah, doesn't need to be custom by any means. BoPET would be the more cost efficient material, like what they make emergency blankets from, and it's readily available. I've seen those blankets go in Walmart for

Simon Østergaard - Good point. I suppose it depends on how broad the UV blocker is. UV does not contribute to electrical power and results in unwanted temperature rise. So, you actually want to block UV. The problem would be if the UV blocker additive also block part of the visible spectrum which would indeed lower the PV efficiency. A test would be simple enough - measure the power output of a bare cell and then cover with plexiglass and remeasure. Another concern is discoloration of the plexiglass and/or resin after prolonged UV exposure.

what the fuck is your channel

Is CTE repeated hits to the panel?

@@Eduardo_Espinoza - Hi! Not sure what you mean by “repeated hits”. I think you are asking if CTE mismatch is a cumulative or compounding effect. If so, yes. Thermal expansion mismatch is a degradative effect. The more cycles and/or the greater mismatch, the lower mean time to failure.

@@Samuel-km5yf These CTE stands for compounding effect? I don't know what CTE is & I think I googled the wrong one.

@@Eduardo_Espinoza - Oh, I understand now. CTE stands for Coefficient of Thermal Expansion. When two different materials are in close contact, and if those materials have significantly different CTEs, then they will expand and contract at different rates when the temperature changes. This can cause warping, delamination and/or stress fractures.

@@Samuel-km5yf Thank you very much! Well said!

i guess this is because of some microstructure on surface getting wet

Because resin refracts the light differently in comparison to air.

There is a fine matt textured surface which the flux wicks into

it's like wetting a stone I'm assuming

It does that when frightened.

Suppose you can cut half the cost to make it as cheap as professional product, you still need to spend 8 hours or 1 day for 100w. For 10kw system, you need to spend 100 days, no way you don't lose your mind and breath too much lead gas to be able to cure in the process.

Can you predict when we'll see the commercial release of this new film?

so i can build a dyson sphere?

i guess it's like a third of total cost.

It's not like he wrote the price for it in the video... 8:25

I give you a thumbs up just on your name alone. XD

At least if you are paying retail prices for stuff. If you can pickup stuff wholesale or used it can be cheaper.

Usually I see diy as a customization to add quality features, while attempting to add things on to which it will be used for. For example I saw his video on oscillope for diy or buy or the price difference. I see the cheaper oscillope was not as bulky as the 400 dollar one. Also DIY I have done because I didn't want to get rid of all the computer components yet. I ultized the screen on a dead laptop to serve as a second monitor, that I didn't have to carry around in a case.

I can think of two category of exceptions: - when you need quality and/or fill a niche(or custom). Example: bed, subwoofer. Ok, you need a set of ok-ish woodworking tools to start... - some items can be repaired much cheaply than buying new: laptop batteries, battery banks/packs.

he doesn't reply to comments not in english

Camilo Mason GreatScott come from Germany?

Luis kommt er nicht aus Sachsen?

He's from germany, check out his patreon site for more informations!

Waterfront_xD information*

Ivan Alaskevich I guess heat transferring

So he doesn't have to bother cutting the plexiglas I presume, he's not short on space.

Dammit. You made me aware

dude y did you do this

Now i will hear it every time.... Why dude why?

I can hear it now. Not before you mentioned.

why have you done this

Yes, but do you put your hand always on one cell? We need a high current or we would have a huge loss through the cables.

6:50 No it won’t that’s what those bypass diodes are for

Dude...have you seen the video? I mean until the very end?

@@matteobaldini9837 obvsly

@Taylor lol the point is all you're doing is holding the solar cells in place. You could use a mechanically cheaper adhesive around the edges and then fasten a panel on to the back to weather proof the panel. IDK what material would be best but almost anything would be cheaper than epoxy.

+KrazeeCain simple silicone caulk, and hot glue from Walmart (used seperately of course).. cost you a dollar each. will hold and seal anything in the world for cheap, quick fix diy : ) between those, gorrilla glue, and some duct tape, you are unstoppable. lol

I was cringing too - Plexiglas/Perspex is really not appropriate, it can also melt or catch fire if a shaded cell gets too hot, but this can only happen with long strings and bypass diode breakdown. Should also seal the edges of the cells with some masking tape to prevent resin getting on the cell surface. I made my panels using Sunpower cells - much less tabbing to worry about, but tedious cutting and shaping small pieces to connect them instead of using the expensive 'dogbone' connectors.

Yes

blanana _m No

@@ste4lthles bread

lol

buy

because of ice rain?

@@HHCABC hail ;)

Bin.

why would you DIY a 2-3$ item?

Lalan Desai why would anyone want that low power piece of shit?

USB Soldering iron DON'T!

neither

You gotta get money ez if you are creative

Georg Gross Just become an engineer and buy all the stuff you need. :P Also, try buying on Ali Express from China. Everything is cheaper if bought where it's made.

Always go with cheaper, it's usually not as good as expensive stuff and will require some modifying or repairing :)

Cekpi7 that depends on you trial and error ......the company's might have the best design at the moment it's not the cheapest option

R&D is lost money. Both the time invested and the raw materials put to use to create prototypes. Get used to it!