You know damn well that the 12s loosened it up forem first 🙃

Crazy that my 10’s play nasty 18hz tones

What kind of car you got?

@@herlemaggard69 They was alright tbh LOL

@@DjR3aper 2 15s in a dodge nitro

Sounds to me like you just never had a good balance😂, I got 4 15s but amped up aftermarket door speakers and a wall of 8 6x9s, all blends perfect and sounds like there’s 2 bands inside my car

I agree I want to hear all the band and all the sounds not just thump thump dont get me wrong base is what makes the sound and the sound good but the mids and highs are just as important being a hard rocker it is not about just bass and when people get in my truck and I turn it up they go wow that sounds really really good that's what I like to hear its all in proportion to the other speakers I do have a bass controller cuz some songs need a bit more or less and w the bass and treble controls on the deck as well as having the gains set correctly on the amp I can turn it all the way up w no distortion most times depends on quality of recording etc

he no longer a basehead.....LMAO

Yea me too I had too much bass but then I changed it because I realized I liked a blend

Bass* 😂. Unless indeed smoking shit off tinfoil is what you meant to say …

Not a bad idea 😂

That's what I have in my hatchback I would love to see that.

For the science 🤔😏

Ermuhgordz yes!

Good idea lol

Its pretty well known that 2 subs different size, cone area will win. Imo the real "myth" that needs busting is what to do with specific box size limits. Ex. I have approx 3.5cuft of airspace, 2 4inch aero ports tuned 35hz ish. Currently have 2 12's in it. Would it be louder to have 2 10's in the same box retuned to the same 35hz or do my 12's hit louder even though the box is "small" 2 10s 3.5 cuft 2 12s 3.5 cuft Way i see it i might get better lows with the 10s but would lose peak output. Thats the test i want to see.

But that doesn’t make sense either when you say everything else being equal Wouldn’t it require more power to move a 15 than a 12? For example if you have a small tiny car and large car…. Putting the same engine in both doesn’t mean the larger car would accelerate or have a higher top speed output than the smaller car

@@demonreturns4336 very little difference in power needed to move it, and that's more than made up for by the increase in sensitivity from the increased cone area. So as long as the coil is the same, the change in MMS is mainly going to change the FS of the driver/where there driver is most efficient.

Hi-fi and SPL are 2 different world ...

The more SD (surface) more db Is a mith in car audio ... When you have 85/88db 1w SPL of efficency High soft roll ... Vs 102/106maybe 108 db 1w sensitivity , 3/4 wave surround stiff , asimetric spider (softer out/stiffer in) ... The eight space of the vehicle .... Is not true the topic of the video but Is pure entertainment

@@picassoimpaler3243 A decrease in cone area will increase response. You said that backwards as if a heavier, wider cone increases bass response when in fact it would decrease it.

So double 12's is better than one 15.

@@ksavage681 Depends but in this case not really if you add another 12 of the same brand and everything and give it the same amount of power it will only be 3dB louder. For example that 35hz test with a 2nd 12 with the same amoutn will play 140.9 dB which is only .4 dB louder than one 15. May not be entirely correct depending on situations and stuff but the principle of it is.

I think the both will sound equally as loud when approaching xmax. The 15 will sound louder at lower volumes due to more air cfm and larger diaphragm. The difference in loudness you may hear could be your vehicle acoustics. In some cases, the 12 will outperform the 15.

@@ksavage681 if ohm and voltage is equalized then splitting the wattage will not see any significant increase. this is why I mentioned equal power. to see a significant increase with the 2 12s you would have to supply them with more power OR run the wiring in parallel effectively reducing the ohm resistance. however that will be effectively increasing the power supplied (and power draw). so isn't equal anymore. also zero cool's explanation of 3 db louder isnt very clear. 3 db is a very generic assumed gain over a single speaker solution. sensitivity, max excursion, and a few other things are taken into account as well as surface area. however if you are reaching your max power output you could actually see a loss as you may not be pushing enough power to push the speakers effectively.

@@godfreyofbouillon8861 in the case of both speakers the Qmax is the same at 23.5mm one way. meaning the 15 will still push more air at all levels. best way I found to setting up a system is figuring budget wish wires and electrical system upgrades if within budget. then figure amount of deletable space from the cabin/trunk/hatch area (some area may not be deletable due to needs/requirements for luggage or other item stowage) , figure how much room you have for enclosures for a box/wedge or a contoured solution. SPL is fun to play with, but in reality SPQ is where most people will lean. been listening to people in their SPL trucks for 30 years going BVVVVFRT BVVVVFRT BVVVVFRT and nothing else and it just sounds horrible.

More like a space doesn’t matter get an 18 trust me

@@SuperSpeederCarl but damn need amp,wire, upgade smh

50inch

true so much goes into the math of figuring the best box in real world, that it really is dependent on box size, build, design, material used, etc... back in early 2000's I had 2 JL audio W6 12s in a custom sealed box in the trunk of my 2004 Acura 3.2tl and my buddy had 2 Rockford Fosgate punch 15s in his SUV and in a homemade box. Mind u that box was not just thrown together but still those speakers could not hit you like my smaller 12s did. And the BOX is what i Believed it came down to...

Exactly that’s why when you get bigger subs with everything being properly set up and most optimal you really realize how much easier it is for the bigger sub to get loud instead of throwing more power to the smaller subs to move that same air, it’s like this a 15 can probably do what a 12 does on 1500 watts with only 1000 watts

No cone area is not King cone area is one of several different very important components that together create the subwoofers and if you take away any one of those components and you no longer have a working speaker so cone area is not King. However BME is a dum azz

seems to be why people double up on smaller subs to get what a larger one can do.

@@YUNGTRILLL Yep. I had a 21" DJ subwoofer in a portable enclosure for some time. Way too big to put in a car w/o a custom molded enclosure but using it outdoors, pushing 1000wrms into it and I shit you not, it was easily louder than 2 15's pushing 2000w. Not only that but the sound quality reproduction from them is crazy good compared to car subs.

Seen a guy with 4 mtx thunder 15s in a s10 back in the day win a spl competition in his class. Those were wal Mart subs. He was the first local guy to custom build and tune boxes. I can't remember the db but it cracked snugs all the time.

Yup, you got it! I remember building my first custom box, into my '89 firebird. An awesome car for loud bass, due to the back glass. But, even then, building a box from plywood (I know, laugh away) vs my second iteration in 3/4" MDF and proper math to calculate air space, I understood the physics and, from there on, made sure that my boxes were built to spec and with proper materials.

i agree with the proper enclosure specs. i went from 1 decent 15 that took up my whole trunk to 2 cheaper 12s. same amp , 12s enclosure was slightly smaller. went from 141 to 147. roughly 2500 rms to both enclosures. no burps. just music. had maybe $500 in everything

@Patrick S nothing wrong with plywood, although you do have to design and measure any box. Before i knew about port tuning I just stuck a random cardboard tube in. Found out later in hornresp I'd tuned to 11Hz haha. My 40 Hz 3/8" plywood box turned out fine and doesn't flex due to the bracing. I could probably build a decent box with 1/4" ply but would have to brace the thing like a dang model aircraft!

Good to hear man!!

I bet the sub playing at rated power would be louder than the sub at underpowered

For real!!

Once a basshead, always a basshead. 👍

I'm guessing the P3's were the least loud of that lineup

@@Titans2138 You guessed 100% correct on that. They must have had the highest sensitivity of the bunch because they would be the loudest on small power, but they hit a hard wall so fast they just can't take more power like the Sundown and American Bass can, when RF says 600-750w RMS they mean that quite literally, I almost smoked coils not clipping sending around 1kw clean to it which means they were likely clamping 600-800w each and it was too much. The Sundown SA15v2 took more power and could play longer, but whenever the coil was far out of the gap it would get so hot, the SA lineup doesn't like digging below port tuning much at all, same thing - heat, heat, heat. The American Bass Hawks I'm sending about 1,200w each and I run it at a soft clip tuned to 7.5db overlap with DD-1+, and they are just screaming for more power. They just flex and flex, make so much fucking noise the SA15's metered at 144.2 with less power so I'm sure these are closer to the 150db mark, don't have a meter to test it. They never get that hot, they get warm, but I'm never smelling voice coil adhesive or anything like that like I would with the SA and P3. The Hawks from AB seem to handle their true 1,500w RMS rating and for like $215 how the hell can you go wrong? Sundown's equivalent U15 is OVER $400!!! Identical specs!

@@ChadsLoud thanks for the info, i'd prob never get sundown because their subs look weird when i graph them in bassboxpro, seems like they're spl subs only good at one frequency. i might check out american bass if I ever get different subs I used to have P2's and they were quiet as hell.I have 3 VXF 15's now so unless I cook them I don't have much of a reason to upgrade. On like 4800 watts. That's before box rise though.

Hope you can answer this but will it be overpowering the music with a 15 inch like I ain’t trynna blow my windows out just want a good mix of sound and bass

Same if anything im gonna add 1 12 with my 2 15s or vice versa

Yeaa it’s like once you get exposed to dat raw, effortlessly loud and powerful bass 15s make its over with for anything smaller unless they absolutely trump or match the 15’s parameters and what not

I love my 2 nsv3 10s

So, do 18s hit much harder than 15s?

@@Hammerback972 my goodness are you people on here trolling or something? Because I really don’t want to go off on somebody I don’t even know but it’s painfully frustrating to see you guys struggling with this basic ass information this is totally bizarre… in what world did 15s ever hit harder than 18s with ALLLLLLLL factors being equal and properly set up and don’t try to compare some shitty ass 18s to some very very good 15s because that’s not fair, if everything is done right in any setup cone area usually wins most of the time, that is until the lower cone area user has a higher fuckload of power to beat the more cone area user that’s the only instance where the less cone area user wins

One 15 blows away two 8s. An 8 has a cone area of about 200 sq.cm. where a 15 has a cone area of about 850 sq.cm. So 400 vs 850. No match.

I just installed 2 12inch rockford t1d2s a week ago. Now I want the sundown 15s. Ffs. Lol

@@chrismcbride4839 so I went with one sundown xv2 15 and bass wise it blows my two two 12’s out of the water. But music wise the 12’s win hands down

Why do the 2 - 12s win over the 1 - 15 for music?

@@demonreturns4336 the 12’s were a lot punchier than the 15, now I have two xv2 15’s and they are flat nasty. But 12’s will always be my favorite

This is a fairly generic comparison. 2 similar drivers in properly sized ported boxes tuned the same (relative to to the recomeneded spec) the only significant difference being the cone displacement. In this scenario, the 15 is surely going to out “Volume” the 12. Now, take 2 12’s against 1, 15. This where things start to diverge. I prefer the “sound” of a 12” or 10” and would take 2 of either over a single 15. When you start getting into multiple 15” drivers, unless you have a 70’s surfer van, you start being constrained by box volume requirements. The other thing is driver design. Most car audio drivers do not focus on the low, low end, around the 20-30Hz range because, technically speaking, you are too close to the source to actually hear that sound wave come to fruition. Your neighbors and the car behind and in front of you will actually here a lower frequency sound wave than you will. This is why most of your car audio amplifiers have there boost in the 30-55Hz range. As for power, the watts versus HP thing is also related to amperage and driver efficiency, much like a car with a 750Hp motor that also produces 700 foot pound torque will move the same car up a hill better than the same 700hp car with 450fp of torque will. There is good reason why the fastest production cars of late are electric. Electric motors have massive always available torque and a much more linear, constant power curve. As with gas pwered, converted energy (horsepower), amplification has the same issue, diminishing returns. In order to obtain the same gains in output, the amp has to have exponential increases in output to facilitate moderate gains. Let’s start with an explanation of what one hears and how that is measured. Test results on these products are assigned a volume “Value” to the ear, at 1meter distance in an anechoic chamber. That is why you often read, xxdb at 1 watt/1 meter. That said, with those measuring techniques in mind, the sound to the ear is perceived to double with every 3db in sound pressure level. So, take 3 different 12” woofers, 1 with an efficiency rating of 87db, 1/ 90db and 1/w 93db, each given the same 1 watt of power. To the ear at 1 meter, the 90db driver will sound twice as loud as the 87db; the 93db will sound 4 time as loud as the 87db drive and twice as lout as the 90db driver, Etc. Remember it doubles the (percoeved) vol. to the ear w/every 3db increase in efficiency when the same amount of power is provided. This is why lowering your cars vibrations and road noise with damping (not dampening) material every 3 db is equivalent to increasing the volume heard, by double. Then there is the amplifier output. I’ll try to be brief. Much like torque provides additional power to launch and maintain a cars speed, an amp has what it calls dynamic headroom. Headroom takes care of unequal demands that are put on any speaker. More headroom, (which is not wattage) equals more dynamic playback, the amp is able to handle the added extreme peaks and valleys in the output power request before it goes into clipping (like torque maintains a more constant speed going up a hill, at a given horsepower level) even though the horsepower is not different. Just like cars need exponentially more power to obtain similar gains in output, amps do too. 100 watts will work; want to double your speed (volume) you’ll need to go with 300 watts. Want to double it again, now you’re going to need 1000, again, 4000 and so on. That’s why you see these ridiculous wattage numbers. Even though dragsters are putting out 10000hp, they aren’t doing the quarter mile in 10 times the time or speed of the same rail w/1000hp; diminishing returns require ever more input for marginal output in gains. You can only get so much out of converting 12volts, that would be amperage (energy from the source). Same moter given the same amount of fuel, say nitro, same motor, more energy stored in nitro than gasoline. Hope that is a s clear as mud! ;)

@@steveschwartz9421 doubling speakers (account for ohms) or power is 3db gain. That is sound energy. Loudness is only about 25% or so higher. 9-10db is double the loudness

@@-Jason-L Granted, should have indicated “sound pressure level” at 1 watt, 1 meter. It's all very much like a car though; performance is much more than just torque or horsepower. Cars weight, aerodynamics, wheel friction coefficient, etc. What always surprises me is the argument about using such large drivers in a car. There is a reason that car audio subwoofers in a car tend to emphasize the 35-55hz range. Technically speaking, you can’t hear (though you might feel) frequencies below that in a car as you are too close to the output source for the actual sound wave to develop. One of the reasons that people on the curb probably get a lower bass response than the individuals in the car. My experience, and with a nod towards SQ, multiple 10”s or Multiple 12”s go every bit as low as 15”s in a car(Actually lower in many cases) and the overall sound quality is superior. Physics will always play a part in the equation and 15” drivers need bigger boxes (usually in excess of 3-4 cubic feet each, ported) to sound as good as smaller drivers, just no two ways around this.

Having a sale on SKAR 18s now, 129 for three sub, around 300 for sub in box

@@Hammerback972 Just got dual 12 MTX with sealed box for 140.00.

ima do 2 sdr 18 d2 sealed on 2 mtx 2300's

I remember the 22 inch jack hammers I wanted one so bad growing up!

You will love it!!

What kind of air space does that Dayton 15 need? Probably better SQ than my Skar subs

Well to keep inexpensive at this point I bought 2 sealed 2.2 boxes from hificonectons. Which is the exact sq ft. I’ll put some Polly fill as well.

I really like skar , but I’m more of a Dayton Audio guy.

Even with a single zvx 18 on 3000 RMS I am cracking 150 easily in my quad cab Tundra.

I’d love to try one sometime!

@@ParkerTheBasshead Thanks Parker I would appreciate it. I got the 18" AB Godfather but had the coil hit the bottom of the motor at very low frequencies. Now at 32hz it was way louder than my Soundqubed HDX3 subwoofers. I did a review on my 18" AB Godfather sub you can do a review on it as well. I love the gloss white basket they put on it.

There does tend to be an ideal volume for each sub. Obviously ported or sealed changes those figures.

It's not just the volume of the enclosure but also what type of enclosure you are using

I had this crazy bandpass box for a single 8 years and years ago, took up a whole truck and it outperformed a lot of dual 10's and 12's with whatever crappy speaker you put in it.

​@@fiddynutz68ugh bandpass always sounds awful imo. you might have been louder but you probably sounded like complete garbage compared to the others.

I just might have to do it!

Any demos

I have 2 15in sundowns in my honda and trust me it’s not worth it🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 this thing is falling apart review mirror fell off, my head liner has fallen

@@demonic3923 I have 2 8s in my civic and the headliner is falling down! & they are CHEAP Skar IX 8s !

Sundown SA12 in 3.4 cubes tuned to 33Hz, on a CT Sounds CT2000.1D in my Acura Legend. Makes every body panel do the wobble.

Your system can make it to 65%?😂i wish

I went from 2 Skar SVR12’s to 2 CT Sounds Meso 8’s and they hit lower and louder.

The smaller the sub the better they sound and you're right about the technology they're making it so small subs can really take some power these days which really makes their performance amazing

The bigger the sub the more you fill it but large subs take a large amount of space and it can be very difficult to tune a box that large depending on the vehicle the enclosure is in

This makes it more difficult to make larger subs 15s it up musical like smaller subs but it can be done

@@MichaelJohnson-je2vo I’d still personally run a single 15 over 2 8’s though even with space in mind.

Your 12s sound like 12s. The box plays a bigger factor than anything else

If you have the SDR sub, swap it out for a SVR or DDX series from Skar. You will thank me later.

If everything is for both set ups are proper the 12s will take the cake UNLESS the 1 15 is a insanely powerful driver other than that it won’t move as much as 2 12s, now 2 15s! That’s extremely louder than 2 12s easily the 12s don’t stand a chance against 2 15s

@@YUNGTRILLL how about two 10s vs one 15?

@@cuttabutter5050 I think 2 10s would be roughly the same volume as 1 15. Possibly a little louder but maybe not

@@cuttabutter5050 it would be close but most likely the 2 10's would win because if the test was balls to the wall then the 15 can only take so much power and only have so much motor force likewise the same issue with the 10's except having 2 motors that means that you might be able to get 2 10's that combined will have better power handling and motor force, might not be much but every little bit count. This is why usually 4 12's will walk all over 1 18 or even 1 21" because of 1 motor vs 4 the 1 just can't out perform 4 especially if you put the same motor on the 12's that's on the 18 lol then they will kill that 1 18 lol

@@SheikhN-bible-syndrome i have both, my 2 10s in a custom box hit lows very well and loud, but i feel the 15 hits more frequencies and overall hits a harder. The 10s bottom out way easier than the single 15

💪🏼

12s probably couldn’t breathe

@@tranquilityaphelion8144 Plently of cabin space in my explorer. the 12's did come in a prefab box so that could have been an issue. also the 12's were just some baby kickers lol

It's all about what you listen to. I prefer 10s as well, more punchy bass than muddy. I'm not all about SPL, but quality nowadays.

​@@tranquilityaphelion8144Wrong.

It doesn't take that much more power, if all other perimeters were equal. The MMS of the 15 is higher, but that is mainly going to change the drivers FS and where it is efficient. It's not enough to change the motor force needed by much. By the time you change the back pressure of the box by making it larger, it's not much of a change in power needed at all.

😢yes it depends on the make of the sub coz it happened to me too

Buy a replacement sub

@@fusiondensity3287 🤦‍♂️ oh man what a great idea! Did you come up with that that all by yourself!? 🤣😂🤣😂🙃 I plan on doing just that! But something to get my bass back till i drop 1200 on a sub would be pretty cool especially if its a gift! Stop being a hater and negative person you might make more friends that way!

Dang man always a bad day when you blow a sub!! Just part of the game

@@TheOrigonalTiny stop being a begger. Nobody feels sorry for you. Get a job and buy your own sub or just listen to some ear buds from Walmart if you can afford that

I HAD an EVL 15 in a 6th order on a Smart 3

Means a lot man!!!