You have to try pretty hard to get a shock off 50 VDC. Shock / electrocution hazards are more of a sliding scale of probability than a hard cut off. Yes, if you are soaked and your fingerprints have gone wrinkly 50V is enough to give you a jolt. If you are just a regular dry person it's perfectly safe.

Inductive loads require special consideration due to the startup current requirements and reactive power. The battery bank itself would have no trouble with the pumps, it really comes down to the inverter. When dealing with AC motors you need to start considering LF (low frequency) inverters. Most all-in-one hybrid solar inverters are high frequency inverters. For 240VAC loads you want to look at more proficient hybrid inverters such as the EG4 6000XP (which has split-phase output). That, however, is still a HF inverter so you end up either ganging two together, or you buy a discrete LF inverter specifically to handle the inductive loads and leave the HF inverter for everything else. Examples of LF inverters would be something like a Schneider (for high quality). Also Victron (mid-market), and AIMS (mass market, not as high quality), and a number of others. I know I'm missing a bunch of good LF inverters in that list. The amount of solar needed can rise quickly as the inverter size increases, due to the idle consumption and general power consumption of the system.

Hello. I just got the POW-4.2M-24V-N I see you got the similar model. I have no idea how to program it. Sadly. It keeps beeping twice every 3 seconds and the soler Panel icon is flashing. Not sure what that mean or what I could do. Any idea? Thank you. I watch the video on here. But he did not mention anything like that. Maybe you have an idea. Thank you

And not just performance... Consider wire size and cost and the difficulty of dealing with large wire sizes. If you need 200 amps sustained, you need 4/0 (0000) wiring. If that is on a 12v system, going to a 48v system means you only need 50 amps sustained, which is comfortable on 6ga and very conservative on 4ga.

Hey how long did you have that inverter? Any issues?

Installed end of Nov... Had 3 test runs without any issues

Installing my 24v eco worthy solar system this weekend. Hoping for the best

Have fun

This is exactly what I do ,cheap battery cables at garage sales.

Just keep in mind that there is usually no isolation between the PV and AC in/out of most of these things. That is to say that even without solar panels connected the PV input terminals must be considered to be live and dangerous. Most of the generic manuals for these types of all-in-ones do make indirect mention of it by way of telling you to not earth the wiring to the solar panels etc.

I've done the same with my 24v system I'd rather stop potential surges/shorts BEFORE it hits my components

Basically you make the 48V system the "home" battery. The biggest, baddest, beefiest energy storage in the RV is the 48V system. That handles all the major loads. All the solar, charging, and other power sources go into the 48V system. It is the hub for everything big and also runs all the AC inverters. The biggest decision you have to make (see below, the third section) is how to deal with the vehicle alternator. I'm saving that for last. -- An RV will still have a lot of DC 12V loads regardless... the stabilizers, pop-outs, often the lighting and many other small loads are typically 12VDC. To handle these loads you first calculate just how much power and energy storage you need and you size a 12.8V LiFePO4 battery to that need. For example, a 100Ah 12.8V LiFePO4 battery can push 1200W continuously and typically surge to 2400W or higher. Tying them together, you simply have a 48V-to-12V DC-to-DC charger (Victron makes one, for example) to keep the 12V battery fully charged. This is called down-buffering. It does not have to be a beefy charger, it can trickle-charge the 12V battery. It just needs to produce a tad more energy than your typical "continuous" consumption (aka lighting) would eat. So usually 8-12A is plenty. Some people use smaller 48-to-12V DC-to-DC converters without a buffer battery, but I strongly recommend using a proper 48-to-12 DC-to-DC charger with a "small" buffer battery (just big enough to handle the necessary 12V power delivery and surges). -- The major decision you have to make is how to integrate the vehicle alternator and the starter battery. My recommendation: Keep things as simple as possible when it comes to the starter battery and vehicle alternator, meaning don't try to charge the 48V home bank from the alternator (if you have only one alternator). If you have room for a second alternator, then consider upgrading it to 48V and charging the home bank from the second alternator. There are numerous other choices here as well. Some people don't even bother having the alternator charge the home bank, instead relying only on their solar, external power, and generator for that. -Matt

You cannot combine 48v and 12v on the same positive bus. They can share the negative or "common" bus.

@@junkerzn7312 I'd prefer to use a larger (40a is typically plenty) 48v to 12v buck converter and skip the additional 12v house battery. But actually, in an RV I'd seriously consider 24v instead of 48v. Usually the inverter is the big load and 24v is reasonable for RV inverter sizes even when powering dual air conditioners. 24v might be an advantage because many things are available in 24v or even flex 12v/24v because many OTR trucks use 24v.

@@Sylvan_dB There are good arguments that can be made. I would say, though, that most of the practical 12V and 24V solutions revolve around retrofits and not so much complete refits / new-fits, or new builds. If one has a lot of legacy 12V or 24V gear, upgrading to 48V might not be financially feasible. For dc-to-dc... well, for low power solutions a direct DC-to-DC is fine. A very cheap solution that will work well. But consider what it would take to support, say, a 200A startup surge on a 12V system? Or even just a 70A surge (the typical startup surge for leveling motors). At that point the down-buffer solution is not only less expensive, it is also far more robust and won't even break a sweat. A tiny little 100Ah 12.8V LiFePO4 satellite battery doesn't even get warm at 50A, can push 100A continuously, and can handle several hundred amps of startup surge. There are many other advantages too. The loads on the down-buffered battery are independent of the main system, for example. -- The main issue these days is that people want all the comforts of home in their RV, and to not have to worry about tripping limits. It is incredibly easy to blow past 3kW, even past 5kW, just with a fully outfitted kitchen (induction burner, microwave, toaster-oven, tea kettle). Add everything else in and the max power can really get up there. Macerating toilet, hot water, motorized pop-outs, leveling, mini-splits or A/C (x 2), and so on and so forth. Plus people only want to have to run their generator once a day for maybe 1-2 hours at the most in worst-case conditions. And put incredible amounts of solar on the roof (some people even have rails for pulling out even more solar when parked). 2kW is not uncommon on a big RV. Plus people want buddy connectors, beefy external hookups. The list is endless. Not everyone wants all of this, for certain, but most people want to be able to have the flexibility to expand into it over time. 24V can get strained pretty quickly. I will also note that cab-to-trailer power interconnects are often being omitted now. People are willing to forego alternator charging entirely in favor of just having solar, generator, and external hookups. -Matt

make sure you use dc isolator and brakers on dc side not ac also buy good brand

They have a version with a 240V outlet on it, in addition to the 120V outlets. But if you're talking about the whole thing in 220V 50Hz standard, I'm not finding anything. You might try AliExpress or Alibaba. This particular unit brand is: JINDOUZI

@@ReeWrayOutdoors Same here. I looked up several brands but nothing that looks like yours maybe i can find it with the name you just gave me .Thanks for the help and information.

batteries are getting chesper you can get 15kw wall mounted battery for $3000 a lot off off grid use 30 kw or they use rack batterie 5kw were coming down to $1000 each prices went up so you beed 6 the good thing about wall mount you use less wiring

on the other hand, despite the functional limitations, Victron DOES use extremely high-quality components, which is why they also typically cost 2-3x more.

I'm consistently using 4 of them for the past couple of months. Very happy with them. I do intend to do a video to investigate how much (if any ) difference I can get out of the 'bi-facial' cells. Just waiting on more consistent sun and temp conditions. If I had to find SOMETHING to complain about...I'd say the MC4 connectors on those are a BEAR to disconnect once you connect them. Not going to be an issue for most people, but for me (since I change things up regularly for testing purposes), they're super annoying. Had to modify an old 2-prong extension cord plug to use as disconnect tool since the 'normal' MC4 tools don't fit the connector style Hyundai is using. :P

Usually the point at which costs start to escalate is over 100A. Once you go over that the cost of wiring and OCP starts to become expensive, at least for genuine stuff you can rely on. 100A at 24V is around 2.5kW (voltage of the battery is > 24v for a lot of the time). At 150A it's seriously time to start thinking 48V to halve it.

😢nawa ​@@retrozmachine1189

@@retrozmachine1189 I have 2 systems, 1 is 48volts @ 20kw with lithium batteries, 4 batteries 5k each, and I have a 24v system which I built at my mom's house, 24volts 60kw, lithium, the 34v system runs everything, water pump, lights, TV, 2 deep freeze and a 2 door standing fridge, it does everything the 48 does with ease

Yeah, you can definitely connect 2 24V batteries in series to get a 48V battery bank. Regarding solar, you can use whatever panels you want, provided that you don't exceed a combined 450V input from those panels, or you risk damaging the charge controller. The max solar power output is 5500W..but you can overpanel by putting MORE solar power in than that if you stay under 450V. The amp input cap is 22A, so be aware that if you configure a panel array that is higher than 22A, the charge controller will still cap the current at 22A and you'll be 'wasting' input potential.

Yes AC mains connection is optional.

Their functionality is pretty much identical, except for the 48V system voltage, 5000W inverter and (I think) larger solar input capacity. The user-interface itself and general construction seem to me to be virtually the same as the SunGoldPower. I wouldn't be surprised if these are built by the same people.

There's definitely a measurable difference in battery capacity utilization efficiency, even with 24V. I actually demonstrated this in my parallel vs series video awhile back if you want to see the difference: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e6p8q9Kdr5a1qH0.htmlsi=xzTnNJBXsoPDuM4o

@@ReeWrayOutdoors Awesome thanks

The main requirement for solar on a 48V system is that the operating voltage of the solar string should generally be north of 61V (and VOC 70V+) for the charge controller to work properly. That's it. 3 x 100W panels will usually do the job. Read the label on the panel for V(operating) and V(open-circuit) to figure out how many panels in series you need, and also make sure the the sum of the VOCs does not exceed the voltage limit of the charge controller. Other than making sure requirements are met, the solar will put just as much energy into a 48V system daily as it will into lower voltage systems. More, in fact, because line losses are lower at higher voltages. The solar has to be configured properly and that is what trips some people up. 2 x Residential panels in series, or 3 x 100W (or 200W) panels in series, or 4 x 75W panels, or 4 x 50W panels, or 4 x 25W panels... in series. That's usually the minimum configuration for solar on a 48V system. If variable shading is an issue adding an additional panel in series helps a lot, but again you have to make sure the worst-case VOC is under the charge controller's max input voltage. Well, de-rate by 20% or so just to be safe. A Victron SmartSolar 150/35 is an excellent fit for a 48V system. A Victron 100/20 works with 3 x 100W/200W series configurations but the voltage range is pretty tight. You need 61V (operating) but a Victron 100/20 can only handle up to 100V (open-circuit).. which is really more like 80V or 85V if you push it to give yourself margin for bright/cold conditions. -Matt

Yeah, it's an 'AC' Charger because it's taking AC grid power and converting it to DC to charge the battery. And so when you see a battery charger with a rated charge current of say 30A, it's referring to the DC current going to the battery. So a 30A charger for a 48V battery system will be pushing something like 1500W...but on the AC side, divide that 1500W by 120V and you're only talking

@@ReeWrayOutdoors I an in Uk night rate charging seems cheaper than solar. 240V 10A on AC side so 2400w 24v 100A on DC side, would be maximum safe contiuious, I think.

@@ReeWrayOutdoors or 1500w as you day uk divide 240. 6.25 Amps AC side should be safe as houses. Thanks for your time. Kind Regards.

For batteries it's called a battery bank, for Solar panels it's called a panel array

That would be true IF I left the original battery in...but as I state in the video, I removed that...so it actually does not run without being plugged in

@@ReeWrayOutdoors Ok, I guess I missed that part where you said the laptop had no battery.

Because if you're gonna step up. Doesn't make as much sense to moving from 12 to 24. It's just giving yourself a broader buffer for capacity

48v is still 2x more efficient. Don't get me wrong I love playing with 24v

As I said and demonstrated in the video, that battery is removed so any significant disruption in power (approx > 50ms) will cause the laptop to shutdown.

I'd love to know what you think said that was false. I'm happy to hear you out.

@ReeWrayOutdoors 12v battery system can handle way more than 2000 watts. It may not be as cost efficient.... But someone on a budget can spend fifty for sixty bucks a week easier than spending fifteen hundred or two thousand dollars. 12 V systems Are cost efficient for those who are living from paycheck to paycheck.

@@vinny143 Within the first 30 seconds of the video, he states over 2000 Watts "48 Volt might be something you want to consider" and then proceeds to give examples why you "MIGHT" want to consider them. Everyone's needs and circumstances are different depending on budget. So you may need to piece something together over time like it sounds like you are explaining in your example, he is also providing another option, and never said that 12V can only handle 2000 Watts.

@@jayb3518 " They are good for about two thousand watts"

@@jayb3518 It's a great video and I enjoyed it....