I myself don't believe there is anything wrong with expecting something bought brand new, at full price, to arrive in excellent shape. Nor is there anything wrong with wanting to keep something new in excellent shape or taking good care of equipment. It's no different than tarping the baler and haybine, or keeping them greased, or rubbing a 50 year old tractor down with wax. We DID however, buy a field rake brand new from Burnips in Big Rapids (hay rake was from Coopersville). The field rake (while they didn't order the right color) was carefully assembled and loaded into our truck without a scratch. Even though this was a much cheaper piece of equipment, they understood it was new and shouldn't be banged around. The other dealership missed this. In this video I am merely pointing out fair observations for anyone else looking to buy. There are plenty of farming channels offering fair reviews of equipment and experiences. We ourselves use their videos as learning tools as much as possible. In this video I am providing you with things to think about when buying new.

You do amazingly well for someone who didn't grow up around it. What you really need is some old Dad or Grand Pa out there working with you. You would be amazed how much they could teach you quickly. Keep up the good work. You are all Try! And that is a compliment!

I never ever worried about paint or scratches. How it operates in the field is whats important.

I just watched your video today. As soon as I saw it I knew right away what the marks were from on the wheel rake. The 3 point arms. Lol I’ve done it too. You can’t go wrong with a good whee rake. I had a 3 point 4 wheel one. I loved how nice it fluffed the hay up to give it the last little extra dry time before baling it.

Time to think about wrapping up those frozen hydrants 😁 Love the new equipment 👍. Take care of it and it will last a long, long , time. Still think you should consider building a long farm equipment shed for all of your equipment. Do it during the cool months because 5V tin roof is hot during the summer. So far 4 people enjoy hanging from there feet and eating hay. 😂

Farm Girl you rock. you do you and i know ill keep enjoying the vids and im sure most your subscribers will as well.

As a retired farmer of many years that's the first thing I noticed . You are doing a fine job and I might add you are a very pretty farm girl.

Looks like the rake is doing a nice job and the more you rake with it the better you will get with it thanks for the video

Looks like new rake is functioning nicely....your yield shows that. As far as it goes, be reminded that farm equipment is mostly large pieces of machinery and in their assembled form are really hard to store inside a building. Most farmers including yourselves store your equipment outside due to lack of barn space or lack of barn. Rust and finish scratches can be solved with sand paper, elbow grease and a couple of rattle cans in the appropriate colors. I would hesitate blaming the rake for the hydraulic leak at the tractor end of the hose. If the fittings are mismatched it's the operators fault as those things are in his/her area to insure proper attachment before operating the equipment. Keep up the good work!

Set the windrow width a little wider to help reduce the amount of clumping your getting out there. We have the 12 wheel version of that rake and I absolutely love it. We demoed the 10 wheel rake and decided on the 12 wheel because the 10 wheel won’t grab 3 swaths into one. The 12 wheel stretched all the way out barely grabs 3. I did order it with the hydraulic width adjust and it’s 100% worth the investment. It allows you to adjust the width on the fly from the cab as crop condition change across the field. Looks like you turned too sharp and got the lower 3-point arms into it. Lol just run them all the way down then all that’ll hit are the tires. You still want to be careful though, I’ve almost tipped ours over when I had one arm up and got into it turning too sharp... It happens. Lol

Great video!

Keep up the good work!

The first piece you weren't sure on is a roll pin used to hold a larger pin in place, the pieces on the wings are baseplate for hydraulic hose clamps, I presume there is a hydraulic adjustment option for the windrow width. Paintwise it isn't just NH the worst piece of machinery we had was a KRM tined harrow as you could see they hadn't bothered to clean off half the steel before painting it.

Good lord I’m sorry for all of the negativity, I commented about the spot you had and read all the bad stuff people are saying I think you have great videos keep it up!

Aisku matau puikiai nusigrebe.Idomu ir kaip tu viska speji.Namuose irgi reikia ka nors pasidariti.Matau tikrai puikiai padarita.Tarkim as turiu taip pat darbu saltu uskandziu tik rite valgau.Reikia ka nors pasigaminti valandos bega.Matau nudazita ne kokibiskai.Taip aciu kad pasidalinai ❤👍👍👍🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹

I concur, looks like three point hitch hitting, if you're happy with the job it does, that's all that matters, I've never been a fan of the wheel rake,but to each their own hope it serves you well, and you get lots of good use from it

Ain't nothing but a thing! The only hurt that occurred was your feelings but you are an honest lady and felt better when you fessed up! :):):)

Great looking rake , we know that you will take care of it

I collect some old simplicity garden tractors from the 80"s and I clean and wax them so they look great. So I completely understand wanting things to stay nice. Its a lot of effort to maintain equipment and grease and change oil. So have stuff looking nice.

Sehr gutes Video wie immer.

Looks like shipping damage to me. I think this is considered normal for this kind of industry. New autos are entirely different.

New Holland puts out fairly decent farm implements. This one here in your video is actually pretty decent. Not extremely high maintenance. Which is nice and it does get the job done. The hydraulic issue might be due in part to that leak. Since this implement is new, It might be somewhat stiff. The paint issues, in my opinion though are inexcusable. Why? Because whomever QA this particular one must of been asleep. Generally speaking though, it is how it operates that count the most, but still, when one pays for something sold as new, it really ought be near perfect. Its up to the purchasing customer to put dings and dents in it as part of its use. Honestly, the gathering of the hay by this really simple method is quite extraordinary. Cool video👍👍🇺🇸🚜

We Always run around the feild 2-3 times depending on what feild were in then we just run back and forth till feild is raked . And we pickup the arms when we turn at the ends as well. Were using a Kuhn speed rake .and vermeer round baler

those first things you pointed at looked like normal roll pins to hold that shaft from coming out, and yeah 3pt arms down does that lol.. also do your ends last in the fields.. just pull up close enough to turn, do the field, then a couple rounds around the outside

This is kind of funny, I bought the exact same rake that you have from a New Holland dealer here in Ohio 3 years ago. It is not made by New Holland unless New Holland bought Sitrex and it is model QR10. Mine had none of those scratches and dents on it and I've used it 3 years now I would say that's all dealer related from putting it together. I did make one modification, I split the side so I have four hoses hook to the back of my tractor one set works the right side and the center kicker wheel and the other set works the left side. That way I don't have to get out and switch those valves in the back when I need only one side. The only place I have it scuffed-up it's kind of in the same place you scuffed-up yours and that's from turning too tight and the wheels rubbed it, but it's an awesome rake.

we just got a new wheel rake and to make it easier rake the back and forth rows first then to the outside rows

The rusted spots you pointed out in the beginning, i,ll bet some were maybe the result of a careless truck driver using that point to chain to maybe? The left and right you pointed to thought for a grease fittings are actually are a roll pin that is friction driven in to hold the main pivot pin.I give you credit for taking pride in your equipment and the hay that ýou produce.

check the quick connect ends on hydraulic lines on your rake, if they are different than your disc then swap to the same ends as your disc and should stop the leak. I would think that the new Holland rake lines from the factory would be matched to the new Holland tractor. I agree that when buying new equipment there is no excuse for paint damage (from improper transport from the factory) the dealer should at least offer to discount some future parts or labor.

Hit it with the 3 point

Dont worry.Stay happy💖

Equipment dealers often lend out their equipment so potential buyers can try it out. Much of the paint 'damage' appears to be where truckers chained it down without using 'softeners' - rubber pads - to protect the coating. Other rust damage is from where metal touches metal when the arms are down. "Faying surfaces". That is not a missing grease fitting, 1:47,it is a 'split pin or Roll Pin which fastens the pieces together. You should have made a back swath cut around the perimeter to get all the hay possible. There may be a tiny number at the corner of the decal so you can order replacements. Many of us guessed what happened. Operator error! One of those 'shit happens' deals. I suspect worn or mismatched connectors on your hydraulic junction for the leaks. Try plugging into another pair temporarily and see what happens. You might also consider some spring loaded suppport for those long heavy hoses, much like Transports have for air lines. In use in the field that is a lot of strain on the quick disconnect couplings. Get a quart of NH Red and some foam brushes for the future. Was this video before the thumb boo-boo? You look very good in that blue iron.

Some of the scrapes were likely from chains and or straps used to transport on a truck to the dealer. It is not unusual find scrapes. Next time ask for a 6 pack of Paint and a 6 pack of beer for the pain. The dealers sign off on delivery with scrapes because they know the Factory won’t pay for superficial scrapes on the implements. Most have low paid set up guys to catch much of it. The hydraulic coupler is likely defective on that one hose. If it leaks while sitting it is bad.

C est bien faudra le répare merci super vidéo magnifique

Up here in Colorada we use vermeer or john deere, hydraulic driven rakes. The ground driven ones just don't quite meet the standard. Hopefully it works out fer ya! Good Luck!!!

Once you get the rack figured out you will have whipped. To me it makes me wonder if they used it as a demo than sold to you as new that's my guess by seeing. Turned to short use to the other rack. Keep your the great videos

Mrs. don’t worry to much on the paints every machine is not perfect it met to be work on the ground and just get the hydraulic working so it doesn’t leak. Love your work.

Best paint I've found so far is cold galvanizing paint to have on hand. Everything rusts quick here in NC. Depot has the galvanizing paint on the same shelf as utility marking paint. It looks like gray primer and dries quick. Pick up some and hit the bare spots to curb the rust. If you want to go farther, pick up the matching paint for the equipment and spot spray the damage. Leaving the galv paint bare isn't a problem as I have a few things that are sitting outside painted with it and no rust attacking it after a couple of years. It's cheap but effective. The hydraulic lines should have check valves on the end of the fittings minimizing fluid loss and making a mess. I have worked with others that don't wipe off dirt or put the caps back that usually end up torn off. I have had the check valve stick causing a leak while disconnected. Carefully tapping the valve inward usually stops the leak. Just beware hydraulic pressure is nothing to play around with as it can be injected into your skin. If it is spraying, shut it off and don't put any part of your body near it as a friend of a friend ended up loosing a limb from a diesel injector pushing fuel into his skin. Diesel fuel, hydraulic fluid, anything with high pressure can turn deadly at the worst. Not trying to scare anyone but machines usually win over humans with accidents. So back on topic. 🙄😁 Likely your rake like others was a damaged demo or damaged in shipping passed off as new. That is sad if it is the case as when you buy new, it should be as advertised. Unfortunately dealers are about profits and a quick fix and touch up likely passes with no questions by most buyers. No criticism towards you. Next time you will be asking about scratches and paint touch ups as you are wiser. Quick thought on what those holes may be that you mentioned may be for a grease zerk that isn't there. If they are threaded, I'm thinking it might be so a bolt can hold the square tube within the outer so the pins can be installed. Just a guess. Might be a good idea to find a plug to put in them keeping water from collecting inside the frame if it can't drain out. Just some thoughts and observations. No expert on anything. Farm on! 😎

That’s a perfect example of you thinking things are ready to go because someone else hooked it up you always have the check for yourself to make sure it’s ready to go you cannot assume and you’ve use that word quite a few times you assume someone else is done it and that bite you in the rear!!’ I enjoy your videos and I get a chuckle out of some of the things that happen to you all on the farm farming is a very stressful way of life I can see

you might try ajusting the windrow wider that should help with the bunching you have in the windrow, also the sharper angle you will get on the wheels will make them turn faster and clean the field even better, just keep playing with it until you find that sweet spot that works for you.

100% Eric's fault but he knows how to touch up paint. Haha. Ready the manual now that you used it and see if it is adjusted right, ground speed, etc. Thumb looks good! It held the camera steady too. Nice shirt, did ya get it when you were there?

Great job WTF farm girl keep up the good work 👍🤠🧛‍♀️

Much of the bumps and bruises are simply from shipping. Sure the dealer could have touched it up but sometimes it gets missed. The scrapes on the jack came from unleval ground handling. Hydraulic leaks are common on new equipment these days since the fittings come from starving Chinese child labor. All in all it looks like it works quite well and a rake will typically last 30 or more years so it will still make a profit in about 3 year's. Keep up the good work kiddo.

Ogden manufacturing makes a nice rake that I really like. It has the same suspension system on yours but the wheels push the hay instead of pulling the hay.

I got a hella deal on a new big tex gooseneck because of rubbed paint during transit from the manufacturer to seller. Damage on tongue was from Jackknifing the tractor into it. I suggest greasing the sq tube you first showed the paint scuffing.

The hydraulic leak isn't causing the wings to go up uneven. The flow is split between cylinders on the rake and sometimes will go mostly to one side due to resistance. It's ok. You most likely need to change an o-ring in the tractors hydraulic outlet to fix the dripping.

Replace the coupler on the hose or check the o rings in the coupler on the tractor. Both can cause the leak.

Hydraulic line holders is what the threaded holes are for I think and the other is roll pins to hold in the hinge pins but I believe I would want the paint fixed too

Does KZfaq control what ads we see on your vlogs? I'm assuming you do not as the only one I see is FS propane! Like this one had it on four times! Who needs to see the same ad every vlog? I agree that most the dings came from shipping tie downs, having been a trucker, getting the implement tied down was more important than protecting the paint, unless this was used as a demo unit! Speaking of gashes! How is your thumb healing? Very possible to have permanent nerve damage !!! Keep Farming Girl! Your learning the ropes!!

Not to tell a person there business lol but wouldn't it be more efficient to take the center of the field first then hit the endrows then you wouldn't have to lift the rake at all? This is how we did it back in my hay farming days 😁

I put rod and hoses behind jack. Down pressure on each wheel looks little heavy.im still learning mine. Lots of adjustments on it.

Erik did say it had to come from another one of their dealership locations and some of those spots where they touched it up on the paint could be where they had a strap or chain to secure the arms to transport it on a trailer

That was a roll pin that holds the shaft in place for the arm to pivot. The grease fitting is through a round hole in the middle of the shaft.

You might think about moving the hitch on your rake lower, making the tongue sit higher. From the video it is very clear that the suspension arms on the front rake wheels are much more compressed than those on the rear of the rake. That will cause more pressure on the front wheel tines, premature wear and breakage.

Couple little tricks to help with raking First one go back and forth first If a guy needs four swaths to turn while balling and yer rake merges two leave four swaths start going back and forth than do yer outside rows last and that’ll clean up those ends up perfectly The other thing I’ve found especially when you get into the lighter swaths rake with the dews. Either before nine or after sun down the crop will hold together better and a rake like yours will nearly pick up every last leaf. You’ll find when your balling that’s where you’ll really save the leaves just because you’re swath holds together real well and you’ll lose less of it to the baler pick up beating the hell out of it. I dunno if that’s helpful for something you’ve allready figured out

Did they give you a little discount from regular sale price?

3pt hitch arms left too low, live and learn. Touch it up with some paint. I've seen people rip Jack's off and twist hitches with the rear tires. It sucks that the rake was dinged up being new but it should be fine and be a reliable rake going fwd.

you say the true about this rake...👍⚘

It's normal for equipment to rust if it sits out in the weather. That thing that you thought should have had a grease zerk in is a roll pin, which doesn't need grease because it doesn't move. If the Hydrualic hose is leaking, put a wrench on it and give it a turn.

If you want to get rid of the clumps in your windrows, you need to open the gap between the rake wheels at the back. This gives the hay more room to exit the rake. When you get into heavier hay it will give you more trouble.

Check the Pioneer tip (hydraulic coupler on the end of the hose) for damage or leaks-- heck it may just be loose! I've seen them drop down and drag on the road when the implement is moved behind a pickup or something and end up dinging or scraping the end of the coupler enough that it's ruined... might need to replace it. That's the first thing I'd check on there... Later! OL J R :)

Looks like the 3 point arms hit it when you turned. Just a guess. I haul New Holland and John Deere equipment. Most often it is chained down to the trailer. We cut old 4 inch tie down straps into lengths long enough to put between the chain and the new piece of equipment to prevent chipping or peeling the paint. Once in awhile, you may get a rub mark, but no destroyed paint. Happy Trails MB BAR RANCH

Lot better windrows. Hard to make good rows with little hay to rake. Need to try raking with the kicker up. Think you will find is does a finer job without it. Use the kicker when you have to pick "flat" hay up. We always run ours in float, seems New Holland says you don't have to. We run KUHN rakes. On your turns pick it up just enough to slightly drag the rear tines and you will be golden. As long as your not dragging them in the dirt the wheels can take it. The way we run ours is start on the longest straight run like up against a fence and run back and forth. Then around the field three times. On really crooked field start the longest run in the middle and work out. On the paint have them give you a can of spray paint. Wire brush the spots and spray. If you leave it out in the weather spray the hoses to prevent UV damage.

What's the wheel in the middle for. I've been trying to watch videos on what the wheel is used for and can't find it. Thanks.

I dont blame you for being disappointed I would be pissed. Unfortunately quality does not exist. Being an aircraft mechanic nothing pisses me off more is the lack of quality. Thats the main reason I try and do everything myself. I trust no one. Hows that welding coming. Thats a task on my bucket list. hope the hand is healing. Good video ❤

Good video, you are learning. You will learn more as you go, don't fret the small shit it happens!

had the 3pt down while turning around-I've done it once too

thought u were gonna demo this in my fields here in NC today!!

Nice shirt! :)

Hmmm interactive video cool! Was the damage from the hitch?

If there is adjustment on it to do so may want to take a little weight off fingers so they dont damage grass as bad? Just saying

Looks like a nice rake. I am curious if you had considered a rotary rake? They make a more even windrow, and keep the ash content down in the hay much better than a wheel rake. Thanks for the vid!

Dents happen. After all it's a hay rake. At least it wasn't the drive line on ur baler! That would be bad. I had a wheel fall off a brand new Kuhn hay cutter this morning. They didn't even tighten the bolts when they put the wheel on. Ruined the hub. Makes ya feel great about ur day. Lol

Hiya.. Hey look at the rakes tongue.. On the LEFT side you see that 'tube' with a hole in it.. You can move your jack TO that and mount it.. that's what it is for. Why it is mounted currently like it is, I have no idea.. but that piece welded to the left side of the hitch arm/tongue is so you can mount it there as well... *UPDATE LOL later in the video I see you figured it out already!

made them overhere sinds the 60 s but with one side by lely (acrobaat and sprintmastewr we have a sprintmaster still in use for straw

There's a guy in South Eastern Idaho who only rents his equipment. I worked around 300 acres for a guy who worked another job. I worked for him around 10 years plowing, discing and planting both Hay and Wheat. All his equipment was used I think. John Deere as far as Tractors go with a small Massy. I don't know how that scratch got there.

I paused it at 15:49 looks like one of the arms on the 3 point hit it from turning to sharp.

For the amount of work you have to get done, between farm and household I'll give you a slide on the drivers pre trip inspection lecture. You just can't catch everything.

I know it's not my business to ask, but am just curious did you guys bought it from a re use place where they sale re use equipment! Or did you guys had them older you one form the company?! Cuz sorry to say which I'm not trying to sound wude? Like don't take my word for it, what am ganna say but inerways, I don't think that's a brand new rake? But idk that's my opinion. But there again it also depends on where you get them equipments.

You optioned up for the New Holland brand new rust package!

I believe the paint damaged areas on the Rake-tongue are from the 3-Point draft-arms hitting it when you turned around. You apparent didn't lift-them-up because they are not required for the Rake. They happened to be right at the height of the Rake-tongue. My Edit....... After this comment, I continued the video, found I was right, and you were blaming Erik. The operators should always check the machine before using it.

At 1:55, those are roll pins. They are generally used to keep things in place but can be driven out with a punch. As for the condition of the rake, did you guys get a deal on it and check for damage before taking it ? How do you know those areas of nicks and bumps are not from you, considering at 15:30, you said you mangled it, lol. Check out OLF, he did a video on the same rake I think ?

looks like the rake does a great job i would say that is the important thing at this time have the dealer at least get you some paint to cover the spots

You left the lift arms down and they hit the tongue of the rake when you were turning. I see that on the PTO shaft of a 12 foot wide finish mower at the country club.

I think you should wash the rake. PS. Pretty much everyone has rammed the hitch arms into something before. Some people do it more than once !! ha ha. Experience -- the ability to instantly recognize a mistake when you make it again. Got that from the cattle forum..

If you had a hydraulic oil leak why wouldn't you stop and fix it. You most likely didn't have it hooked up correctly. That little white jug is NOT the hydraulic reserve. It's and over flow and please don't dump that back into the tractor.

well you know you are supposed to raise the lift arms on the 3 point when using the draw bar. Sharp tight turns and lowered lift arms will leave a nice oopps like that.

As I have said the jacks suck.....The one on ours is Royal Pain.....I have to Rake for 2 459 J.D. silage specials rolling at about 6 mph so I can't dally on the ends....rake around he field three times that gives me enough turn radius.... I lift the rake enough to prevent stress on the tines... and push the lever into float as soon as the turn is complete.... Usually when I get to one end of the field one of them is waiting, same on the other end.....

That rusty holes are roll pins they are extremely hard and are raw steel they'll rust for years but it'll take a good 6-7 to start breaking down can change them at any time when you see loose or wobbly movements change them, Try to keep your tags just above the ground maybe next year don't set the haybine so far to the right the rows will be closer, Should be able to tighten the ball valves on the tractor or might have dirt or hay in behind the ball. You will get contact points but watch for rusty cracks, Loading equipment with forks or chains will get you them marks the salesmen are the ones that will paint to sell better.Cornering to tight 3 point hitch marks lol

yes i agree with you. the money you spend on things the paint should be power coated and there should not be had leaks.

What should I plane on land that has not been used in years Just over grown with grass and midwestern trees

I wonder if someone purchased it used it and returned it hence the touch up paint and rust, you did mention it was the last one in the state that was available

Sorry if I already asked this question but I thought in one video you said you only have 2 cows. Do you sell most of your hay?

That's a paint scratch. Not damage. My guess is operator error and something to do with the tractor 3 point being left to low, since it's on both sides.

Those are Spring Pins... they keep your pivot pins in so your rake doesnt fall apart

Thanks interesting video

Reply to Brad not Landa Rust can be hit with phosphoric acid, which turns the rust into a non corroding polymer sort of stable, black coating. Test to make sure you don't damage the paint. Maybe mask it off.

You so gorgeous with her hair down but you're gorgeous with no hair up to you just gorgeous all around the husband and the kids is so should be so glad to have you you so amazing I wish a lot of girls these days was like you the world would be a better place to live amen

Backing it up

What is the width of your haybine? My diskbine is 10’ cut, and I have 10 wheel, Newholland rake. Mine just doesn’t have the reach to get all 3 cut win rows.

those thing you thought should have grease points in are just roll pins so all they do is hold the pin in