Glad my video could help!

Thanks for the good feedback. It's definitely easier for others to follow along this way. Takes me three times as Long dealing with the camera and editing but well worth it I think.

Thank you sir!!

I own a 1948 B. Your videos and dialog are fanrastic. Where do you purchase yoour parts?

@@flyfliker A lot come from Reliable Aftermarket Parts on ebay or Amazon but some from Stieners and the engine kit was from Yesterday's tractor. Seals and other odd and ends from Advanced auto parts.

Thank you!

@JonoHaack the seals were autozone. But i did not need bearings. Between the two tractors, i had what i needed

I do not have the bearing numbers, but the seal numbers are shown in my transmission assembly video. Thanks for the good words.

Thanks, I just used gasket maker. I recommend the ultra grey, and it seems to have the best consistency.

@@JPN76 what gear lube do you use?

@@kveltman4672 80w-90. Anything close would work

Mine doesn't make any noise. Only clicks a little with small amount of backlash when I rock it back and forth. Are the gears all original. I saw in the parts manual different years will have different gear ratios. Tooth count is slightly different. May a gear was replaced with the wrong one? I think I remember you had a C as a parts tractor? If you used the bull gear from that it might be the issue

Lucky for me between the two transmissions I ended up with enough good bearings.

The seals I matched up by size entering the shaft and bore size on a temkin web site. Ordered cheap at auto zone. Bearings I ordered by the number on the bearing from parts stores. Gaskets and other stuff was stiener tractor. Yesterday's tractor and Amazon. Many gaskets I used RTV even if a gasket was available.

Both wheel bearings can be bought at Oreillys. Number is on the inner race of the bearing

I agree. That's why I left them! As for paint I used tisco persian orange #2 with hardener. smalink.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=TP285GAL&catlist=8514&parent=3748

Yeah that's all I used. Not a drip at all. And any modern stamped steel pan uses rtv only so it shouldn't hurt anything.

Thanks for the feedback!! Great video

I sandblasted the smaller stuff. I used a needle scaler and wire wheel on the larger parts. I sent you some pics of the block as an example on Facebook messager

@@JPN76 Got them, It took a while as stuff like that doesn't work on company wifi so I had to use data to get in.

The paint on the inside is just oil based rustolium. It doesn't contact oil so no need of a special paint. You could figure gasket thickness in many ways I imagine. Easier to do with this by adding too many shims then back down one. In the automotive world I'm a bit more precise. Here i am going by feel. The manual in many places say tonjust get a nice rolling fit with no endplay. One trick I sometimes use is to put a thick piece of solder in between where the shim goes then tighten it down. Measure the solder and subtract the preload from the measurement or add to it if the spec is end play. That method may not work well with shims like this though but works good with shims behind races.

Yes they are! I edited about 10 min out of that spring part. The level of work changes based on need and what the wanted final outcome is. Yours worked great for your plan to get it running as is. My tractor is a little more sentimental I grew up on it and now it's going to live inside and only come out for fun. This is the first tractor I have ever restored and I'm sure I'm going a bit overboard.

Also there is a big difference between repairing the tractor and restoring to like new. Don't cut yourself short.