Nice 👍

Glad that worked for you.

You are right. And in some way "restoring" them to perfect isn't really restoring them at all. But I think it's still nice to get it as close as we reasonably can. Thanks for watching. I hope you are enjoying the journey with us.

These convertibles were not the "cheapest thing" they could build at the time. They were actually a fine hand-crafted, high quality Karmann coachwork build - far apart from the Beetle sedans. The door gaps were originally set to approx. 4mm (1/8") front and rear. Rear door gaps are common such as this one's, after 50+ years of rust, shoddy repairs, and just plain fatigue. There are factory body / frame mounting points at the rear shock towers which have replaceable rubber shim pads designed to correct the rear door gap issues.

You have to have the body mounted back to the chassis before working on the door gaps. The convertible door gaps will actually flex somewhat, especially with the top not latched to the front window frame. If you have the entire vehicle pretty much assembled and you put it on a lift, or jack it up evenly at the 4 corners of the frame rails, You will see a big difference in the rear door gap, with the top unlatched. Lifted, Your rear gap will open up at the top, and it will close back up when You let the entire weight of the vehicle back down to the ground. If You have a lift, you can actually see the change as you lift the vehicle, and set it back down. Also the thickness of the body to chassis rubber mount blocks will alter the door gaps, and as I stated, the the top assembly when latched will also alter gaps. It is a process, to say the least.