Hi Frank, yes, this is indeed a more refined finishing than many old Seiko's. If you look at new high grade Seiko's, you will also see nice finishing there. This whole watch is very, very nice :)

D0nt like hi beat watches they wear out fast, service is also needed at short terms

Thanks Chris, I really love this watch also, it's just a very cool and different design. Quite 70s, but the best kind of 70s 😁

Thanks so much, Michael :)

The narration and knowledge is very enjoyable, I came for the lessons but stayed for personality (: I've been watching a lot of watchmaking channels because one day I'd like to be able to do more by myself since a big harem of sexy watches is costly to maintain, not even considering the delays for parts & waiting for a qualified watchmaker to take on "your project" I have no illusions about my lack of knowledge but you're very inspiring to fellow collectors, at least me 😊

Thank you! 😊

Yes they are! And this reference in particular is very different from the rest of the GS's, very cool :)

Thank you kindly :)

Thanks so much, Dave :)

Thank you so much 😀

Glad you like them! There'll be a lot more Seiko videos coming 👍

Thanks Donny! There'll be a lot more to come :)

Thanks a lot Nigel 😊

Hello Michael, thanks for watching and for your comment, very much appreciated! Yes, it certainly is a beauty. Very different and almost all in a good way :) The hack might look like it will foul the escape wheel but it actually still stops the balance wheel when the stem is pulled out into hand setting mode. It's the safest place to stop the movement, as it stops the final movement component rather than one earlier in the chain. If the hack stopped the escape wheel, the balance wheel would still swing a couple of times and you might risk other problems. With the balance wheel arrested, everything stops immediately and it will also start up again immediately. There are more videos coming, so stay tuned! 😁

😁

Wow, thanks so much, Jerry, that's awesome to hear! Golf and watchmaking are very compatible though, so no need to wait 😉

My late uncle was a watchmaker and I have his tools, i think I'll get a cheap watch and have a tinker. Good luck with your channel.

Thanks, Haseeb! There is a difference for sure, and a Seiko hi-beat 36000 is certainly something for any collection :)

Thanks, Red! Yes, you can open the "Do not open" barrels, but the risk of not being able to fit them again is quite high, so if it works well the safest thing is to keep it. If the mainspring does not give enough power I would certainly open it up (and find a reserve barrel just in case).

@@VintageWatchServices OK got ya. And I guess finding a similar barrel isn't easy.

😂 I had a Japanese classmate in university, and once I said his name very fast (last name, first name) with a gruff voice and he immediately and instinctively responded "hai!". That's where I got it from :)

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks a lot! There's indeed more parts the more complications you have and some watches have up to 600 parts... 😳

@@VintageWatchServices how about speedmaster with 1861 movements? I know they are complicated buy are they easier chrono to service??

Thanks so much, Nick! More to come after the summer vacation, so stay tuned :)

another expensive mistake made by seiko

Thanks! And darn it, I'm doing my best to keep the jokes bad! 😁

Thanks Ronald!

Hi Eric, thanks so much for making the effort to write a comment! I actually hold Seiko in very, very high regard, even though I might bash them for plastic parts, keyless works having hundreds of little pieces and their often rough finishing... But they make some very solid, no non-sense movements that I really respect. I even stated in one video that a Patek Philippe without the finishing would be a Seiko 😄 I'm actually planning to do a Russian or Soviet watch shortly, just have to decide whether to make it a chronograph or one I have lying around in a drawer somewhere. And I cannot promise to hold back on the bashing then!

Thanks John! The El Primero is indeed a bit of a challenge for shaky hands...

Thanks for watching! Yes, I replaced the non-original crystal with an original one 😉

Thanks Boyd! I basically work on the watches I have at any given time, so we'll see what comes across my desk :)

Thanks for your comment and for the info! My Japanese is indeed a bit rusty 😉

Sounds like he's saying psycho. Haha.

My pleasure, thanks for watching! 😊

Thanks for watching! There's indeed clear DNA from the earlier movements to the modern ones, and Seiko still make great ones :)

Hi Richard, thanks for watching! This watch would look good with any kind of strap or bracelet, I think. I believe it would originally be offered with both a steel bracelet and a leather strap but not a mesh bracelet, indeed. Nice to hear you're serious about your hobby, it's a great interest that you can do pretty much until you die at the desk :) There are a lot of different cleaning solutions out there and it's a bit like choosing between Pepsi and Coke; they'll all do the job. Just make sure you also have a rinsing solution. You would typically have one cleaning jar and two rinsing jars and run the parts through them in sequence. Onedip is typically used for hairsprings, although I rarely use it myself. For cleaning the cap jewels you will want a naphtha solution, lighter fluid works well. Fixodrop is what I use for the pallet fork, and I use it on all watches of all kinds. It helps the oil stay on the face of the pallet stones rather than creeping off. Medallions like the one on the case back of Seiko KS's and GS's are fixed on the outside of the case and if they are subjected to ultrasonic waves they could start loosening. The result of this would be that the medallion would partially come off the case back. So not what you want to see...

@@VintageWatchServices awesome.tyvm for the advice along with the pointers on different types of cleaners and whatnot.guess I could saved a few bucks and just bought lighter fluid for cap jewels instead of the onedip but hey can't learn without asking questions.i do already have a cleaning solution but still have to get the rinse solutions which I will be getting this coming week. Also so far your the only one I've heard speak of doing any lubrication on the rotor bearing itself.rite now the oils I have are 9010,D-5,8300 natural grease and 8301 grease with graphite.would any of those work well for the rotor bearing like the D-5 or should I get the same stuff that you said you lubed the bearing with. Again I thank you for all your advice and look forward to next video.take care and stay safe.

Hello Clay, thanks so much! This watch is indeed spectacular and I'm thinking of keeping it for my own collection 😎 Most Seikos were produced for export, including this one, but I think they used the English wording as default also for the domestic ones. If anyone out there knows better, please educate me :)

Yeah, GSs are fabulous watches. And yes, I'm Norwegian :)

@@VintageWatchServices Heia Norge!

Hyvää Suomi! :)

🥳😁

A field watch nowadays is probably about as useful for being in the field as an SUV is for driving off-road... The only thing different with them are basically the dial design. Probably an old Timex is the best for a golf game, they'll take a licking and keep on ticking, I've been told 😁

Hi Joe, thanks for watching and for your question! Sealed barrels are typically no different from normal barrels, apart from being more difficult to open and close, as the lid is typically thicker. The spring and barrel are generally the same. The reason some manufacturers did it this way back in the late 60s and early 70s was to ensure the steady power supply from the mainspring, which can be jeopardized if someone fiddles around with the barrel. They recommended to change the barrel complete with every service. However, as can be seen in this video, an old barrel complete like this one still provides plenty power, so you can often get away with not changing it. But opening it is perilous as it could be difficult to assemble it again. For this movement I completely agree; this looks much more like a Rolex movement than a standard Seiko. It really is a wonderful movement and very high quality.

@@VintageWatchServices: *_Grazie, l'ho apprezzato!_* 👍🏽

Hello Berre, for the lever movement, lubrication of pallet stones is not really a point of debate, unless you mean that you can lubricate the escape wheel teeth instead? That is an option but not very common. There has however been a lot of effort in trying to come up with escapements that do not require lubrication, this was the driving force behind George Daniels' co-axial escapement for instance and later Roger Smith's work.

Nope, not a fan

Thanks ✌️

Hello Mohamed, that's great to hear, thanks! For case backs with an applied medallion like this one, the vibrations of the ultrasonic may lead to the medallion coming loose. For solid casebacks as in the vast majority of watches, it's not a problem to use the ultrasonic.

@@VintageWatchServices Thank you for clarifying :)

My pleasure of course :)

I cannot say to be honest, I don't know Labelle 106 that much apart from a quick google search just now :) It's not a product I have ever heard of for use in watches, so I wouldn't recommend it.

Hello Stephen, thanks for watching! Most watch brands use plates, bridges and cocks made from brass which is plated to achieve a uniform look and to protect the brass a little bit from oxidation and scrapes. This plating is typically either gold, copper (as in vintage Omegas) or rhodium, as in most modern movements. Rhodium is bright silver colored, and this is what Seiko uses from what I know. Older watches with the same kind of silver look can also be nickel plated, and higher grade old watches and some new one like Lange use German silver, which is a copper/nickel/zinc alloy.

Hi Francis, thanks for watching and for your comment! I haven't worked on the 7S26 series myself, but from what I can see the balance is the same, only the regulator is different. I found this that may be useful: wristsushi.proboards.com/thread/20026/7s26a-7s26b-7s26c

@@VintageWatchServices Thank you very much. Keep the streams coming the are great. Cheers Francis.

To me personally it's not that much about the worth, it's more that I prefer things to be original, but for selling watches the originality is also more valuable :)

Hi Henrique, thanks for watching! I follow the BHI's recommendation which you can find here: www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwi4id25ht7vAhX68LsIHcbnAO4QFjAAegQIAhAD&url=https%3A%2F%2Ftheindex.nawcc.org%2FArticles%2FBTI-The_Practical_Lubrication_of_Clocks_and_Watches.pdf&usg=AOvVaw0Nlfmcsoljrth5lg8fHEYU It basically says that for lower beat movements one should use Moebius 941 (or similar) and for high beat movements - 28800 and higher - one should use Moebius 9415. 9415 is a grease, and that is what you saw me applying to this movement. The reasoning behind it is that since the pallet fork moves much faster back and forth and the movement of the balance wheel teeth across the pallet forks is so much faster, the lubrication needs to be thicker in order to stay in place. Hence the grease 9415 instead of the oil 941.

Hello Nunya, I didn't actually say to grease the pallet stones *instead* of using 9415; 9415 IS the grease I use :) As opposed to 941, which is an oil. 9415 is perfect for 28800 movements.

@@VintageWatchServices Oh ok, i guess it was the characterization of "thick grease" that threw me off. Ok good to know. That's what i use. Thanks again.

Pretty sure I didn't say "thick grease" 😉

Hello Karst, thanks for watching and for your question! I personally don't like putting the dial on anything, so I prefer to put the watch on the bench on the side and hold it steady.

@@VintageWatchServices No thank you for the videos! They are very enjoyable and on top of that immensely helpful. Yes, that method makes sense. I have done it like that as well but it feels like I would need three hands to do it securely sometimes, especially when the dial itself is larger than the movement.

Seiko has made a ton of very fine watches indeed, just with a different mindset than the Swiss for most of them. They do make some incredibly high end watches also though, check out Credor, their high end brand.

@@VintageWatchServices yes this is true and is a point where the swiss are making a mistake , but I think they are coming back with schools and french Briancon/Morteaux very good school for watchmaking slaves or good mechanics ... , missing is engineers to start new era , but with the comeback to mechanical watches , not only for EMI from stupid atomic event , but the real reliability , see stats on the quartz watches , they go to the bin at an average of one cell battery ....but with new engineers ( most movements where designed before 70 years ago ) using modern know how could design ideas for fabulous mechanical wathches ,like using carbon fiber spirals ,magnetic floating balance weel,very light escape weel and anchor to reduce inertia loss ,low beat for less ware , and more...

Thanks 😁 Better, right?

@@VintageWatchServices jes its nice xD

@@theo5413 I saw your 7734 video, btw, very nice camera work!

@@VintageWatchServices Thanks :-)

Hello Ben, that's a great question! The short answer is the entire train of wheels, but the main component making a watch beat faster is the balance spring. To achieve a high beat rate you need a much more rigid balance spring, as a soft spring simply wouldn't be able to rotate back and forth fast enough. Once you have a rigid enough balance spring, the rest of the wheel train of course has to be calculated with the proper gearing between the wheels and pinions to ensure that the hands rotate at the pace they should. Key to this is to equip the escape wheel with a few more teeth in the high beat movements simply to avoid having wheels and pinions with too many teeth further down the train. The escape wheels in low beat movements have 15 teeth while high beat movements typically have 20 teeth. After that there are a few common ratios being used but it also depends on whether the movement has a cannon pinion on the second wheel or an indirectly driven hour wheel etc.

@@VintageWatchServices Thank you very much Sir ! I have one more question to know , would you kindly to answer me again ? Hi beats watch escape wheel has 20 teeth then Low beats escape wheel 15 teeth , so does the distance of the pallet fork left stone to right stone also has to be changed to fit the 20 teeth escape wheel ? My stupid question meaning is : Is it there has the difference distance between high beats and low beats pallet fork's stone to stone ? Thanks !

Hello John, thanks for watching! I got mine on eBay, actually, and you should be able to find one with a bit of patience :)

@@VintageWatchServices Thx. I’ll keep looking, I’m really excited for this watch. Everyone keeps marveling how patient I am, they don’t recognize I’m merely stubborn.

Hello Stephen, thanks for your question! No, I don't and I don't think anyone should do that. It is in my view no less than wilfully damaging a watch and such practice has no place in our day and time. Perhaps it served a purpose 100 years ago, but not today. There have been better ways of tracking who worked on the watch basically since pen and paper were invented (which coincidentally was way before the watch was) 😉

Yes, that's best practice. I've changed how I do things a bit over time :)

@@VintageWatchServices Thanks for confirming. What's the purpose of the funny shaped, and rather expensive, epilame bottle? I'm just getting started in this hobby and there's lots to learn.

Hello Pat, yes and yes, and also because brass is a bit softer than steel, thus allowing for a little bit better grip.

Hello Mark, thanks for watching! Some of these old watches have barrels that were supposed to be replaced at a service rather than having the mainspring taken out and cleaned. The issue is that the barrels can be very difficult to put together after opening, so if the amplitude is alright I use the old barrel as is. If I have a spare barrel I would try to open this one and lubricate it.

@@VintageWatchServices thanks a lot for your answer, one time i service a Zodiac sst 36000 with this kind of barrels and I managed to open it, the problem was that I couldn't close it later 😅. I'm from Spain(Sevilla) and i dedicate myself to the repair watches since 10 years ago, more or less, i love repair it, and your videos are very instructive. Thank you very much for the information and keep it up.

Darn it, I always had a hunch it would be a really bad idea to launch a KZfaq channel... there's of course a reason I had to leave Norway. "Just when you think you're out, they pull you back in!" This really is a beautiful watch, fully agree. It is quite different from the typical GS, both in terms of colors and angles. Looks fantastic on the wrist. Faceted crystals are and were very rare for a few reasons; they are a bit more expensive to make and have more edges that more easily get chipped. A flat or slightly domed crystal is much less prone to getting damaged. But they do look very cool :)

LOL!

Hello Pat, there is a great risk of damage, so I wouldn't put the case back into the ultrasonic. Given that the gold medallion is applied to the steel case, it will start coming loose after just a few minutes in the ultrasonic.

👍

Hello Kenneth, sorry to hear your watch has not been treated well. I assume it's a quartz watch? If there's an issue with a quartz movement it can basically only be replaced by an identical movement. Unfortunately I do not have the equipment to work on quartz, but if you contact Seiko directly they should be able to help you.

​@@VintageWatchServices Thanks for your prompt reply. I'm certain it's a self winding movement. The number code on the casing is 7006 6039. I thought it was a mechanical movement.

Ah, okay, thanks for that. Then it's not an actual perpetual calendar, but the one with the 31 calender inner bezel?

@@VintageWatchServices Yes, that's the one. It has a beautiful blue dial and the original stainless strap. It still winds and runs, but not well and not for long.

@@VintageWatchServices I just took it out again and wore it for the day. It gains one 5 minutes every hour! Would you be willing to fix it for me?

😄👍

I have a 15 years young 6R15A which has seen the links and shooting range more than a few times. Serviced once by Seiko, she runs at -1/+1 per day, as long as she rests crown down overnight (slows down the average +2 daytime gain on the wrist). The rapid date stopped functioning a year ago, when the crown is pulled out 1 click. The watch keeps running, the crown has no effect, but the date advance overnight otherwise works normally. It hacks and the hands turn normally to set the time at position 2. Pushed in at position 0 it winds normally by hand also. No other problems have developed. I don't often wind it by hand, the automatic rotor system is efficient.

Hi Jeff, thanks for watching and for your question! Sports can be quite tough on watches, especially if you wear the watch on the wrist that is closest to the action. Manufacturers' advice is though always based on worst case; e.g "don't play tennis with your watch" assumes that you're hitting very hard and generate a lot of force in the action, but the truth is that most of us have tennis skills that probably rival Howard the Duck's rather than Roger Federer's. So we're probably safe, but I still take my watch off when doing sports(chess and curling should be fine, however).

They're from Regine Horology, and Horotec sells some quite similar, just with a straight angle instead of a curved one.

Hello Tissa, no, watch gears are never lubricated. The teeth roll on each other's surfaces, they do not rub. I have some other videos showing how to regulate the watch, you can check this one for instance: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aatdf5tzxtOyfWQ.html

Thanks for watching and for your question! I haven't worked on the 8L35, but the decoration level is certainly higher than on this one. For the performance and serviceability I wouldn't really be eligible to compare them but Seiko quality is very, very high in general, really focusing on functional requirements more than non-functional.

Hello Mark, thanks for subscribing and for your question! It is indeed just a few parts that have higher direct wear due to faster rotation, and the exact reasons for most manufacturers backing off of 36000 I think is more due to 28800 being fast enough... Nowadays in particular, watches aren't really made to last more than a few years, and with a higher beat rate the need for lubrication is higher. But any exact experiments or results from 36000 watches is very hard to find.

Hello, thanks for watching and for your question! No, I unfortunately do not have the recordings in such a format. If you need to download them rather than stream from KZfaq, I believe there are some apps that allows you to download videos.

Seems you're going through all of them! 😎

@@VintageWatchServices I certainly am brother and enjoying myself binge watching best site on the net by a country mile. Keep them coming love everything about vintage watches you should have your own TV show. 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Maybe some day! 😂

Thanks, Steve!

Nothing, really 😁 It's just a nickname, but it is a piece of brilliant engineering for sure. museum.seiko.co.jp/en/knowledge/trivia04/

😂

I'm not actually saying Psycho, I'm saying Say-ko, but think of the "Say" as how Australians would pronounce it 😉

@@VintageWatchServices Oh, heavens! I said it partly in jest but TBH, I didn't pick up on the accent.

Hello Mike, thanks for watching and for your question! Yes, I most certainly have stripped screw heads and also broken screws inside bridges, mainplates and barrel arbors. I've also broken pivots, messed up hairsprings and put the mainspring in the wrong way as well as scratching dials and cases 😂 Luckily quite a few (but not all) of these things were done on watches I bought for practice :) It's all part of the learning process I think. It's been quite a while since that has happened, but especially when you're just starting out it can be difficult to know how much force to use, how important it is that screwdrivers are fit for the screws etc.

@@VintageWatchServices Thank you for your answer I ask this question because it seem pretty easy to do so I guess it is a learning curve thank you

Well, you would certainly have a revenue source if you can make those jars for cheap!

I think it was about $50, so not too bad but certainly a lot more than what you would get them for when the watch was still in production...

Hello Bart, thanks for watching! I'm not sure what you mean?

👍 I'd rather have this in my collection than a standard Rolex any day.

Absolutely!

Hello Orlin, thanks for watching and I hope that little mistake didn't wreck the whole experience for you! 😂 If you know the actual lift angle you probably also know that it's not a big issue to use a slightly different lift angle if the amplitude is within healthy limits. If the amplitude shown in the video was 230 degrees it would be important, but in this case a 52.4 degree angle would probably lower the amplitude to just below 300, which is still very good for a Seiko this age :)

Thanks for watching and for your comment! Sorry if I forgot to show that, there's a lot of editing to do with these videos and sometimes I forget parts of it. You'll just have to trust me that it runs very well 😉

😁