Thanks form Berlin / Germany

I love how wide the doors open up!!!! It looks so comfortable in there!!

Tony, i love how you want to grow your channel by teaching your craft to others so they can learn to do it themselves. Most people don't live close to you and can't bring their car to your location. By sharing your knowledge you are doing so much of a great service to use that want to learn how to repair our cars the right way with high quality. I absolute applaude you for your committment to this channel and i love watching you work. I hope you get to remove a door panel on a 1975-1978 Ford LTD Landau coupe or sedan in the future.

I probably would have missed that one screw on top/behind the panel for sure! I totally agree, never use power/electric tools to tighten those screws, great way to strip all those fasteners or break the panels. You answered my question: how did ford get those motors in there without having the third hole drilled... They installed the regulators/motors as an assembly. I remember those pins pulling out of the panels on my Caprice also. Great advice about not using the pull straps to close the doors. Those front doors are HEAVY, especially on coupes, those tiny screws will pull right out, sure did on my old Caprice.

A great tutorial, Tony! That door panel is unique to the rear of the 4-door hardtop, which is why that "extra" screw is there. This also reminded me of the kit that Ford used to sell to repair these motors: it included the 3 plastic pins and some grease. I used said kit to repair one motor on my '73 Marquis Brougham.

It was so good to talk to you today on the phone. I hope you were able to get to your tire appointment on time. Sorry I kept you! Keep up these videos! Watching you working on this 74 makes me thankful that I have a 79 with plastic clips. They are so much easier to work with.

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I have worked on Thunderbird PW motors/gearboxes since my 66 Bird in 1971. Never any problems until several months ago I worked on a 66 drivers window for an older guy who was living paycheck to paycheck so I just did it to help him out. It was stuck in the up position. Got it apart, and it had a replacement Chinese motor in it. The gearbox had the plastic outer gear with springs connecting it to the center gear so it could flex without tearing anything up. I loosened the nut on the worm gear, thinking it was too tight and possibly causing it to stick. Got it back in and before putting the door panel on tested it on and off for several hours between tries. All back together and he calls me a few days later and it is stuck again. I said sorry, but I did know what else to try except to put a charger on the battery and get the voltage up and hope it will unstick and go down. He said that didn't work. I said sorry but I didn't know what else to try. Any suggestions? If you care to answer. Thanks

If you’re looking to add to your product line you should consider getting a 3D printer and making replacement screw covers for the door pulls. I’m also guessing that they did plastic pins as an intentional fail point to prevent damage to the track and gears if it jams.

My experience with power windows is limited to 60s thunderbirds and Lincolns. However I recently purchased a 75 four door town car and the right rear window just makes a noise as the motor is running but window does not move. Does the Lincoln use the same setup as the Mercury for these years?

There’s a Craftsman set of those plastic tools, as well. I think they’re better.

One more question: with my 2013 Lincoln MKS, which has auto up and down windows, is it important to still take the pressure off the window motors like you say about these 70 Ford products and having to replace the torque pins? Or in my 2002 Grand Cherokee ?? Or just modern cars in general???

Hey tony ive got a 78 grand marquis 2 door and my drive side window just absolutely wont do anything no sound or nothin the other window switch works but the drive side just stopped after working the day before any idea?

Hello Tony, just found and am now following your channel. I have a 71 Mark III with some passenger window issues. Window rolls down just fine but will not roll up under its own power, have to assist it buy pulling up along with using the switch. What could be causing that?

9:52 - "Why we've got a missing nut and a missing screw, I don't know"....... Well, it is the mid-70s, and it's Ford and the UAW. Frankly I'd be surprised if any cars that came off of any American assembly line in the 70s wasn't missing a screw and a bolt here and there.

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