Do you understand how huge your first start and first drive videos are going to be? Weve all been watching since the beginning and we need to see this thing done! I love your videos

Looks good Erik, might want to put a nut under the fuse box that would then give the box tab a place to land might keep that rod from tilting and will keep that tab from getting over stressed and bent.

Good luck installing the tank. The new IROC tank I bought was no way near fitting. I had to cut the filler neck and splice a piece of hose after taking out a section of pipe. Hope yours is better.

Yep, you probably would scratch it, I scratched the heck outa my tank I put in my Satellite. I have this set up from Tanksinc for my Coronet. The powder coated tank is a work of art! I’m going to cut an access door in my trunk to make it easier to get to the pump. Figured if I do drag week it will be easier to get to and fix if needed.

Same TANK, but for my model year Camaro - good job. Remember disconnects so you can drop the tank.

Not Camaro related and I know how much a fan you are of Rush: I just watch a video of Neil Peart doing a drum solo in Frankfurt Germany.... he was amazing.

Hey buddy that engine bay is looking sweet soon you will be on the road your hard work is playing off keep it up 👍from your friend firebird Luis

I used a small piece of plywood and my floor jack to remove and install my tank by myself. Don't forget to add the anti-rattle/squeak to the top of the tank and to the straps. You may want to fit the straps in the slots towards the front of the car and bend them with your hands to shape them to the approximate shape of the tank before you get the tank up under there or you may not have enough room.(if you have new straps)

Looks like it took a little time, but slow and steady won the race by the end of the day and not necessarily that bad!

that engine bay is looking good Erik.

Nice parts looks good

Liking that setup. I have no idea what's going to fit for me, so I'm thinking fuel cell will be my only option.

I have that same set up in my car. Quiet(you can hear a slight wizz before the car starts) and works very well. Never had a fuel starvation issue even when I run it almost dry

Dude! I had the bell not "clicked" and wasn't getting any of your upload notifications so I thought you had moved to England and started restoring a 1980 VW Golf LMAO - car is looking sharp man, now I have that stupid bell on so should be good to go.

put a piece of small rubber tubing over that threaded bolt will look great

A roll-over valve is a liquid / vapor separator. No one has plans to roll over as I you did, oil pressure would drop, so an oil pressure switch has been used for decade to shut off the pump. Tanks are designed with a bulge in the top, as fuel enters, liquid splashes. Their is a hollow lite-weight float that remains open by a small weak spring. Shake it. Once closed, vapor pressure builds up. This forces liquid fuel up the filler neck. Once it hits the gas pumps aspirator tube inside the gas stations filler, it shuts off, Magic. There is wire for ground and aspirator signal are inside the rubber hose between the pump & nozzle, that shuts off the pump. Some swaps are done with no activated carbon canisters or plumbing. With no place for fumes to be stored (Inside Canister), a guy May find the tank is hard to fill as it shuts off every 15 seconds. Caps have evolved but all are vented to allow air into the tank. Let hydrocarbons escape and run free, and you will get a ticket in places like California. Have you noticed the convoluted rubber seal on the gas stations pump? Was is that? It is a vacuum that pulls hydrocarbons into the largest activated carbon canister you have ever seen. So, old vintage had no exit pressure restriction. They say “Caution, gas may spray when removed”. Newer had a 1 psi pressure while OBD-II in 1992 in California jumps to 2 psi. The rest of the county was 1994 (1996 is 17 pin / not 14 pin ) called OBD-I many times. It is “Type 2” code, so (test runs, fails, stores all engine/system info). GM will tell the driver to “Check Gas Cap” as it only runs (Enable Criteria Met at 80% full to 20% empty). Cap loose, hanging or screwed in crooked and corrected, as the PCM clock waits due to run time, runs the test again, passes, no CEL, fail records stored, clock is reset, fail records erased after 40 warm-up cycles. (Air temp & coolant temp within 10 degrees F upon start, then reaches 172 degrees F or higher and shut off = warm-up cycles) it’s all very simple if you know OBD-II. If I had a roll-over valve with fitting at top of tank, I would run a hose higher than filler cap, loop down and zip tie into place. Retired ASE Master

What did you do for Tank Venting and the Rollover Vent Valve? I am installing a Tanks Inc kit in my 68 and all is going swimmingly well until I hit the venting part. I fully understand the merging of vent ports, routing, orientation, and functionality of the valve. My question is where to put it? I assume that your second gen has the same kind of issues. There is no place under the car that is higher than the Filler Cap... I questioned Tanks Inc and they gave me a canned answer of above the Axle (which isn't high enough) or in the wheel well (seems like an offley wet place). Your thoughts? No one is brave enough to provide these details on YT and the forums I see people avoiding the question. Crickets! Envy of your constant progress... you'll ne cruising soon!

When will you do the wiring for the entire car? How did you figure out which Painless kit to get? Looking good, Eric.

Hey Eric, do you have date for a goal to have the car done by? Also, ..... WE MISS POPS. Tell him that we all said hello!

Ratchet straps to lift the tank.