You're welcome. Thanks for coming by to watch.

You're welcome Frank. Glad to hear you are keeping an RS up and running. :-)

Hi Michael, It sounds like you are keeping a number of airheads running. All the best.

Daryl, Thank you for the kind words.

Abhiram, Indeed with many of us staying home, we all need to find things to keep us busy. If that requires buying parts on line, that's a good thing for small business as well. Sounds like a win/win :-)

@@BrooksAirheadGarage Agreed!

Thanks for putting in so much effort into these videos. Now time to order some more parts for the old GS :)

Mike, thank you. So far we are laying low and have avoided the virus. Having this project to work on has been therapeutic. It's tangible work with concrete results that puts me in the here and now instead of spending time worrying about what may happen. That's one of the reasons I started rebuilding airheads a dozen years ago. It costs as much as psychological therapy sessions, but it's better as I can ride the result when I'm done. :-)

Thank you Maverick.

Hi Kyle, I'm sorry to hear about your misadventure. I have no advice or idea how to proceed to get the puller bolt removed. This short article by Bob Fleischer (aka "Snowbum") explains the requirements for the puller bolt in section 2. --> bmwmotorcycletech.info/rotorsfail.htm

@@BrooksAirheadGarage Thanks for your response. I have really enjoyed your videos.

Hi Ernie, I've had Hall effect sensor failures on two motorcycles. The sensor is a semiconductor. Semiconductors fail with heat. It's very hot inside the front engine cover. So, I thought I'd see how an optical sensor works. In support of that decision, others who have installed it who I respect say it's very reliable. So, I'll get to see how this system works over time.

Brook's Airhead Garage: Thank you, that tips the balance for me - I need something that is robust for my R100GSPD, and I think the other alternatives look less reassuring, and they’re not as easy to install. It will be a job for the winter.

Martin, no it is not damaged by the voltage used to fully charge the battery.

thanks👍

Gregoire, The kit comes with instructions about how to set the timing. In short, there is an indicator LED on the timing unit that lights when the timing window lets the light from the timing LED pass through to the sensor. You set this at Top Dead Center (TDC). The rotating timing window is a TDC senor and the electronics figures out the degrees of timing advance to apply using TDC as a reference point.

@@BrooksAirheadGarage hi Thank you very much for your help!

You're welcome Gregoire.

Hi Mark, Well, I can't say I measured the engagement. But there is enough engagement that I had no problem tightening the alternator rotor bolt to 14 FT-lbs. So I have to assume the sleeve is not to thick as to cause a problem.

Heiko, okay, I'll bite. What is it you want to know?

@@BrooksAirheadGarage I just noticed that you mentioned the optical sensor choice a few times and that you think that hall sensors are not reliable. I would appreciate your opinion. I installed a silent hektik ignition on my R90 that uses a hall sensor. Just curious.

@@HeikosGarage My experience with them is two failures, one that stranded me on a cross-country tour. They are a semi-conductor. Heat is not the friend of semi-conductors and it gets quite hot inside the front engine cover. Unfortunately, when they fail, it's like a light switch and there is no work around. The BMW electronic bean can is a rather expensive spare to care around. So, I'm going to run this optical-electronic ignition. It's come highly recommended by folks I respect, so I'm hopeful this lasts longer that I do. :-)

Malcolm, I like the increase in gas economy and it prevents pinging when using the higher compression 9.5:1 pistons.

@@BrooksAirheadGarage Thanks very much Brook.