Thanks and remember it makes good sense to carry a spare one of these.

@@SteveAZ711 I’m definitely learning this the hard way video helped me out big time thank you

Hello How did you test it. I have a 1996 but the model doesn't have those 3 prongs. Thanks

Glad it was helpful!

Great to hear!

Thanks for watching!

Welcome. Thanks!

Glad to have helped. Thanks!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks!

Thank you!

Welcome

Glad it was helpful! Check this link...www.allfordmustangs.com/threads/1984-302-how-to-replace-the-injectors-in-the-tbi.334908/

Your fuel injectors may be weak or clogged as well.

I had a truck just like that. Really!

No I did not have to pull the distributor. I did turn it though, and reset the timing afterwards. I used a 1/4 in deep well socket to get to the screws. They can be a pain as some 1/4 sockets will not fit down into the screw hole. Thanks!

I think it was Haynes or Chilton's Manuals. Thanks!

Seems like I used a 7mm or 8mm socket to get these loose. I believe it was a tapered end deep well socket as well. I did not have to pull the distributor.

@@SteveAZ711 7/32” got the job done. You were right, needed a tapered socket. Thanks for the help and the video.

Yep, 7/32“ . There is precious little room to insert the socket (need a thin wall socket for sure)

Your new module is probably good. The old one may be bad, but needs to get warm to show that. Sometimes they test good and the truck will run for a bit and die. If you have access to a wrecking yard grab a stock module and switch it with the new module or get a different new module. Like I said I think the new one is good though. I think you have a fuel issue under load. I know, that it only seems that it showed up after changing the module. However, missing under load usually is lack of fuel...worn or clogged injectors, fuel filter, and the main culprit is the fuel pump. The fuel pump will allow you go a ways, quit (like you lost spark) then cool down and let you drive some more before quitting(sometimes), just like a bad module. Do a fuel pressure check and if bad change the filter and see if it gets any better. Oh, and make sure the rotor, cap, and wires are all good. I hope this helps.

@@SteveAZ711 Thank you, this helped point me in the right direction. A fuel issue makes sense as I don't get a CEL (it did come on once last week but was only on for a few minutes). The cap, rotor, plugs, and wires are all new as are the fuel pumps and filter. I will check them out though to make sure. And now that I think about it, I had an exhaust leak (the muffler was about to fall off) because the clamp was loose, all around that area was black. I would think that it's running too rich would it not?

A 1/2 in. open wrench fits the head (albeit a bit loose) but sufficient to serve its purpose. I never tried a crows foot, but it should work. A small box end 1/2 in. wrench fit my '87 as well.

@@SteveAZ711 Bought a set of 'distributor wrenches' for a few bucks at the auto store. The 1/2" did the trick nicely with the help of your video. Thank you!

It should read something other than 0.00. Make sure your meter is set to read a small number...not 2k ohms.

It would idle a bit then die. Eventually found the issue to be bad injectors. I put some rebuilt ones in and it solved the problem. All the cleaning of the old injectors (previous video) was of little use.

Does that mean the module was probably Ok. I just bought a new module and pip pwr & tfi pwr read 3.4 K ohms. 🥺 I'm thinking they sold me a bad module!!! 🌙🌤🌛🌞🌛🌦 It's a couple days later and I got a chance to bench check both modules the new one checks out OK 😅. The old one checks ok with all 5 resistance test but proves faulty in bench test.

These modules fail do to heat. I would not trust anything reading that doesn't fall between set parameters. I cannot say that this would actually cause the problem.

I have used heat sink compound for a computer processor.

I really do not know. Sorry I can not be of any help here.

@@SteveAZ711 thank you, great video. I just got another harness and see if this one will work. Other option is going carburetor.

Set your meter to a lower scale and see if there is some kind of reading. 0 ohms is less than 5 but It could also mean that the module is open on that circuit. It doesn't hurt to carry a spare module so personally I would find another module maybe a new one or a used one at a parts yard.

If you have a known good module then I suggest substitution. Even if you do not need a new module, a spare one of these is good to have when you do need one. These modules do go bad and Ford started mounting them to the left fender for better cooling along with redesigning them in future models.

@@SteveAZ711 my test #3 reads 25.6. Definitely above 500 but seams really high, any ideas? Update: that was my problem, I put a new one in and it's running great.

Check fuel pressure and injectors.

@@SteveAZ711 even though it runs perfect without spout in, i assumed i was getting fuel because it runs fine without spout

​@@AntiMaxer If you're looking at it doing fine with spout out, then you likely have a pickup issue.

@@kairu_aname all this was tested ended up being the Original dizzy had some wire come loose inside of it the second Dizzy had the wrong shaft which became magnetized and now onto the 3rd one trucks fixed runs fine full list on parts and what i replaced and tested are on my channel

@@AntiMaxer Good job. I just put my two cents in there because I've seen where some cars will run fine with the spout out, and some will run fine with the spout AND the alternator control out. Tough to diagnose if you haven't seen something like it before.

Gm had their own version as well. An old impala stranded me once back in the 90's.